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#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
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If you don't have one....
If you don't have one, they are on sale with free shipping. I know Fein is a superior quality tool but.... http://www.amazon.com/Fein-ASTXE-649...6?ie=UTF8&s=hi Allen |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
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If you don't have one....
Allen Roy wrote:
If you don't have one, they are on sale with free shipping. I know Fein is a superior quality tool but.... http://www.amazon.com/Fein-ASTXE-649...6?ie=UTF8&s=hi They're out of stock! Must have sold out right away at that price. Forget it. Oh, well, guess I'll keep the Sawzall after all. Andy |
#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
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If you don't have one....
On Wed, 17 Jan 2007 21:30:04 -0500, "Allen Roy"
wrote: If you don't have one, they are on sale with free shipping. I know Fein is a superior quality tool but.... http://www.amazon.com/Fein-ASTXE-649...6?ie=UTF8&s=hi I'd bet an awful lot that the price tag has *everything* to do with the fact that it's designed to be used in an environment that must be spark-free. All that stuff costs a lot of $$$, even the wrenches. |
#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
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If you don't have one....
"Prometheus" wrote in message ... On Wed, 17 Jan 2007 21:30:04 -0500, "Allen Roy" wrote: If you don't have one, they are on sale with free shipping. I know Fein is a superior quality tool but.... http://www.amazon.com/Fein-ASTXE-649...6?ie=UTF8&s=hi I'd bet an awful lot that the price tag has *everything* to do with the fact that it's designed to be used in an environment that must be spark-free. All that stuff costs a lot of $$$, even the wrenches. Inquiring minds want to know how carbon brushes and standard commutation produce no sparks. The area is ventilated to cool it, rather than shielding from sparks, so must be some exotic beryllium alloy on the commutator bars? http://www.feinus.com/p/pdf/astx649_..._breakdown.pdf |
#5
Posted to rec.woodworking
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If you don't have one....
"George" wrote in message t... "Prometheus" wrote in message Inquiring minds want to know how carbon brushes and standard commutation produce no sparks. The area is ventilated to cool it, rather than shielding from sparks, so must be some exotic beryllium alloy on the commutator bars? I am convinced that it is magic that prevents sparks! The same question can be asked and I did ask an Oldsmobile factory rep how an electric fuel pump submerged in gasoline inside a fuel tank does not cause an esplosion. He gave me a "totally lost" look. The fuel pumps actually had gasoline flow through the center of the motor and past the brushes. Old motors with worn out brushes were spotless inside. I can understand how there would not be a problem when the motor is submerged but what changes when you run out of gasoline? |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
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If you don't have one....
"Leon" wrote in message t... "George" wrote in message t... "Prometheus" wrote in message Inquiring minds want to know how carbon brushes and standard commutation produce no sparks. The area is ventilated to cool it, rather than shielding from sparks, so must be some exotic beryllium alloy on the commutator bars? I am convinced that it is magic that prevents sparks! The same question can be asked and I did ask an Oldsmobile factory rep how an electric fuel pump submerged in gasoline inside a fuel tank does not cause an esplosion. He gave me a "totally lost" look. The fuel pumps actually had gasoline flow through the center of the motor and past the brushes. Old motors with worn out brushes were spotless inside. I can understand how there would not be a problem when the motor is submerged but what changes when you run out of gasoline? Perhaps that's why the pump is located in a standpipe well? |
#7
Posted to rec.woodworking
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If you don't have one....
"George" wrote in message ... Perhaps that's why the pump is located in a standpipe well? The electric pump is attached directly to the tank meter fuel line on one end and has the primary tank sock/strainer attached to the other end. This all hangs from the tank unit inside the fuel tank. As long as the sock is submerged the pump pumps gasoline. The sock is no longer submerged when you are very low on fuel. The motor/pump is above the fuel level before the sock is above the fuel surface. There must be some kind of ground to prevent arcing from the brushes but when I cut one open to see how it worked I saw no sign of any thing except worn out brushes. Clean as a whistle inside. Go figure. Its magic I tell you. ;~) |
#8
Posted to rec.woodworking
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If you don't have one....
"Leon" wrote in
t: "George" wrote in message ... Perhaps that's why the pump is located in a standpipe well? The electric pump is attached directly to the tank meter fuel line on one end and has the primary tank sock/strainer attached to the other end. This all hangs from the tank unit inside the fuel tank. As long as the sock is submerged the pump pumps gasoline. The sock is no longer submerged when you are very low on fuel. The motor/pump is above the fuel level before the sock is above the fuel surface. There must be some kind of ground to prevent arcing from the brushes but when I cut one open to see how it worked I saw no sign of any thing except worn out brushes. Clean as a whistle inside. Go figure. Its magic I tell you. ;~) The part I liked was that, when the pressure dropped below some preset point, it all shut down, clean as a whistle. And it cost some serious change to get a new pump installed. But that fixed the problem, I'm told. Good thing I trust my mechanic. Patriarch |
#9
Posted to rec.woodworking
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If you don't have one....
"Patriarch" wrote in message . 136... The part I liked was that, when the pressure dropped below some preset point, it all shut down, clean as a whistle. The older units would continue to run, out of fuel or not. That is what mine would do. I replaced the one on my 1975 Olds Starfire befor going to work at the Olds dealer. I was sorta woried about connecting all the wiring back correctly although IIRC there were only 2 wires. And it cost some serious change to get a new pump installed. A lot of trouble if the pump went bad and the tank was full of gasoline. The tanks had to be dropped so that you could get to the top and remove the tank unit. |
#10
Posted to rec.woodworking
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If you don't have one....
They won't gift wrap it. That's gonna reduce its
popularity as a present. Prometheus wrote: I'd bet an awful lot that the price tag has *everything* to do with the fact that it's designed to be used in an environment that must be spark-free. All that stuff costs a lot of $$$, even the wrenches. |
#11
Posted to rec.woodworking
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If you don't have one....
On Thu, 18 Jan 2007 14:07:12 GMT, "Leon"
wrote: "George" wrote in message et... "Prometheus" wrote in message Inquiring minds want to know how carbon brushes and standard commutation produce no sparks. The area is ventilated to cool it, rather than shielding from sparks, so must be some exotic beryllium alloy on the commutator bars? I am convinced that it is magic that prevents sparks! The same question can be asked and I did ask an Oldsmobile factory rep how an electric fuel pump submerged in gasoline inside a fuel tank does not cause an esplosion. He gave me a "totally lost" look. The fuel pumps actually had gasoline flow through the center of the motor and past the brushes. Old motors with worn out brushes were spotless inside. I can understand how there would not be a problem when the motor is submerged but what changes when you run out of gasoline? I believe this is because a 12 volt spark will not develop enough energy to be hot enough to ignite the fuel or vapors. That's why the easiest way to achieve intrinsically safe rating on electrical stuff is to keep it below (IIRC) 24 volts. Paul Franklin |
#12
Posted to rec.woodworking
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If you don't have one....
"Allen Roy" wrote in message ... If you don't have one, they are on sale with free shipping. I know Fein is a superior quality tool but.... http://www.amazon.com/Fein-ASTXE-649...6?ie=UTF8&s=hi Allen I was shocked by the price tag for something that my recip. saw could do. And yes when is the last time you had a sawzall spark on you? Being that there is ventilation for the motor, one would have to assume that either it is made of some real high end materials (gold wiring, some advanced titanium, carbon fiber body) or that the price is in error. Also I would like to find the concrete and cast iron cutting blades for it. I could see this as being spark free.. http://www.amazon.com/Fein-MOT-6-18-...6?ie=UTF8&s=hi And sorry to our Canadian friends, it can only be shipped in the U.S. Allen |
#13
Posted to rec.woodworking
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If you don't have one....
"Paul Franklin" wrote in message ... I believe this is because a 12 volt spark will not develop enough energy to be hot enough to ignite the fuel or vapors. No, a spark is hot, light emitting hot. |
#14
Posted to rec.woodworking
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If you don't have one....
"Allen Roy" wrote in message ... I was shocked by the price tag for something that my recip. saw could do. And yes when is the last time you had a sawzall spark on you? The last time I turned it on. |
#15
Posted to rec.woodworking
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If you don't have one....
In article ,
Leon wrote: "George" wrote in message et... "Prometheus" wrote in message Inquiring minds want to know how carbon brushes and standard commutation produce no sparks. The area is ventilated to cool it, rather than shielding from sparks, so must be some exotic beryllium alloy on the commutator bars? I am convinced that it is magic that prevents sparks! The same question can be asked and I did ask an Oldsmobile factory rep how an electric fuel pump submerged in gasoline inside a fuel tank does not cause an esplosion. He gave me a "totally lost" look. The fuel pumps actually had gasoline flow through the center of the motor and past the brushes. Old motors with worn out brushes were spotless inside. I can understand how there would not be a problem when the motor is submerged but what changes when you run out of gasoline? I'll take a shot at that one. A few shots actually. First, the submersed electric fuel pumps that I am familiar with, used on some GM vehicles, don't use brushes. Even if they did, gasoline requires oxygen to burn (or explode, which is actually pretty rare except in movies & TV) There is not enough 02 dissolved in gasoline to support combustion, let alone explosion. I never really thought about it before, but with fuel system design today, it would be pretty tough to get enough air inside a gas tank to support a fire inside the tank. Of course, someone could forget the gas cap, but even so, it would be unlikely. -- Contentment makes poor men rich. Discontent makes rich men poor. --Benjamin Franklin Larry Wasserman - Baltimore, Maryland - |
#16
Posted to rec.woodworking
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If you don't have one....
No.
"Paul Franklin" wrote in message I believe this is because a 12 volt spark will not develop enough energy to be hot enough to ignite the fuel or vapors. That's why the easiest way to achieve intrinsically safe rating on electrical stuff is to keep it below (IIRC) 24 volts. Paul Franklin |
#17
Posted to rec.woodworking
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If you don't have one....
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#18
Posted to rec.woodworking
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If you don't have one....
wrote in message ... I'll take a shot at that one. A few shots actually. First, the submersed electric fuel pumps that I am familiar with, used on some GM vehicles, don't use brushes. Brushless DC possible with modern electronics, of course. It'd be my choice. |
#19
Posted to rec.woodworking
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If you don't have one....
Just the blade while cutting something. The mototr is a given.
"Leon" wrote in message . net... "Allen Roy" wrote in message ... I was shocked by the price tag for something that my recip. saw could do. And yes when is the last time you had a sawzall spark on you? The last time I turned it on. |
#20
Posted to rec.woodworking
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If you don't have one....
On Thu, 18 Jan 2007 13:10:41 GMT, "George" wrote:
Inquiring minds want to know how carbon brushes and standard commutation produce no sparks. The area is ventilated to cool it, rather than shielding from sparks, so must be some exotic beryllium alloy on the commutator bars? http://www.feinus.com/p/pdf/astx649_..._breakdown.pdf Have to ask them, I was just taking this: Product Description From the Manufacturer This is an electric hacksaw for cutting pipe and profile steel when a spark free environment is required. The saw will cut pipes up to 24" in diameter and profile steel up to 21 3/4" height and 11 1/2" width. The saw blade needs 6 inches of clearance to make the cut. A pipe clamp is also recommended for cutting pipes. off the website at Amazon at face value. |
#21
Posted to rec.woodworking
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If you don't have one....
wrote in message ... I'll take a shot at that one. A few shots actually. First, the submersed electric fuel pumps that I am familiar with, used on some GM vehicles, don't use brushes. Perhaps not now but they absolutely did back in the 70's and 80's. The brushes wearing out was a common cause of failure. Even if they did, gasoline requires oxygen to burn (or explode, which is actually pretty rare except in movies & TV) There is not enough 02 dissolved in gasoline to support combustion, let alone explosion. Something has to displace gasoline as the tank emptys. Most every one runs out of gaoline at one time or another and the fuel pump was exposed to air when the tank was low on fuel. I never really thought about it before, but with fuel system design today, it would be pretty tough to get enough air inside a gas tank to support a fire inside the tank. Of course, someone could forget the gas cap, but even so, it would be unlikely. Air displaces gasoline as the tank emptys or the tank would collapse. Unlikely, very true but what keeps the brushes from causing an explosion? IT'S MAGIC.. ;~) |
#22
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If you don't have one....
"George" wrote in message t... wrote in message ... I'll take a shot at that one. A few shots actually. First, the submersed electric fuel pumps that I am familiar with, used on some GM vehicles, don't use brushes. Brushless DC possible with modern electronics, of course. It'd be my choice. The motors inside the pumps indeed had brushes. |
#23
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If you don't have one....
"Allen Roy" wrote in message ... Just the blade while cutting something. The mototr is a given. Cut through a nail with a bimetal blade while doing demolition. You often get a spark. |
#24
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If you don't have one....
"Puckdropper" wrote in message If someone forgot the gas cap, a yellow light with a funny shape comes on and a little bell dings... Well, at least on my mother's minivan. If you look in the manual, I'm sure it says to take the vehicle to the dealer soon when that light comes on. What's wrong with having a "check gas cap" light? Some do. My LeSabre has a message on the computer that reads "check gas cap" Once you do, it takes about 15 starts for the code to go away. |
#25
Posted to rec.woodworking
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If you don't have one....
Subaru has a "check engine" light. It appears to monitor the gas cap. Light
comes on, check gas cap. If cap is present and tight, replace with new one. Light goes out. Never seen "check engine" light come on for any other reason. "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message om... "Puckdropper" wrote in message If someone forgot the gas cap, a yellow light with a funny shape comes on and a little bell dings... Well, at least on my mother's minivan. If you look in the manual, I'm sure it says to take the vehicle to the dealer soon when that light comes on. What's wrong with having a "check gas cap" light? Some do. My LeSabre has a message on the computer that reads "check gas cap" Once you do, it takes about 15 starts for the code to go away. |
#26
Posted to rec.woodworking
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If you don't have one....
On Fri, 19 Jan 2007 19:52:23 -0500, "Edwin Pawlowski"
wrote: "Puckdropper" wrote in message If someone forgot the gas cap, a yellow light with a funny shape comes on and a little bell dings... Well, at least on my mother's minivan. If you look in the manual, I'm sure it says to take the vehicle to the dealer soon when that light comes on. What's wrong with having a "check gas cap" light? Some do. My LeSabre has a message on the computer that reads "check gas cap" Once you do, it takes about 15 starts for the code to go away. 2004 Ranger is smarter than I too. Mark (sixoneeight) = 618 |
#27
Posted to rec.woodworking
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If you don't have one....
On Sat, 20 Jan 2007 01:19:43 GMT, "CW" wrote:
Subaru has a "check engine" light. It appears to monitor the gas cap. Light comes on, check gas cap. If cap is present and tight, replace with new one. Light goes out. Never seen "check engine" light come on for any other reason. Bad emission sensors will do the same thing. ... and the light doesn't go out until you get them replaced. Unfortunately, if you live in an emission inspection county, you have to have them replaced in order to pass inspection. "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message . com... "Puckdropper" wrote in message If someone forgot the gas cap, a yellow light with a funny shape comes on and a little bell dings... Well, at least on my mother's minivan. If you look in the manual, I'm sure it says to take the vehicle to the dealer soon when that light comes on. What's wrong with having a "check gas cap" light? Some do. My LeSabre has a message on the computer that reads "check gas cap" Once you do, it takes about 15 starts for the code to go away. +--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+ If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough +--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+ |
#28
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If you don't have one....
In article ,
Mark & Juanita wrote: ...snipped... Bad emission sensors will do the same thing. ... and the light doesn't go out until you get them replaced. Unfortunately, if you live in an emission inspection county, you have to have them replaced in order to pass inspection. Or "fortunately" if you happen to breathe air LOL. -- Make it as simple as possible, but no simpler. Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - |
#29
Posted to rec.woodworking
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If you don't have one....
In article ,
Leon wrote: wrote in message .. . I'll take a shot at that one. A few shots actually. First, the submersed electric fuel pumps that I am familiar with, used on some GM vehicles, don't use brushes. Perhaps not now but they absolutely did back in the 70's and 80's. The brushes wearing out was a common cause of failure. Even if they did, gasoline requires oxygen to burn (or explode, which is actually pretty rare except in movies & TV) There is not enough 02 dissolved in gasoline to support combustion, let alone explosion. Something has to displace gasoline as the tank emptys. Most every one runs out of gaoline at one time or another and the fuel pump was exposed to air when the tank was low on fuel. I never really thought about it before, but with fuel system design today, it would be pretty tough to get enough air inside a gas tank to support a fire inside the tank. Of course, someone could forget the gas cap, but even so, it would be unlikely. Air displaces gasoline as the tank emptys or the tank would collapse. Unlikely, very true but what keeps the brushes from causing an explosion? IT'S MAGIC.. ;~) The oldest submersed pump system I am familiar with is from the late 80s early 90s GM vehicles using throttle-body injection. Even these systems manitained a constant fuel flow with a return line to the fuel tank. As the return fuel is heated during its round trip, pressure in the tank tends to rise due to increased fuel vapor pressure. You have probably experienced the "poof" of escaping vapor when removing a fuel cap. My understanding is that the pressure inside the tank is largely from fuel vapor rather than air. The natural tendency of the system over time is to exclude air from entering. I do agree, though the idea of the electrically operated fuel pump being inside the tank used to disturb me, however, either through serendipity or design, I have yet to hear of a fuel tank fire caused by an electric pump. And when you think about it (and I realize that the current is limited to an extremely low value) the fuel gauge system is electrically operated, with a sending unit inside the tank that uses a contact that slides over a coil to make a variable resistor. And that type of setup has been in use since before I was born, let alone working on trucks. Just as a possibly interesting story, I have been working in fleet and mobile equipment maintenance for about 29 years now. I've seen a few vehicles that caught on fire, some of them literally burning down to the frame & chassis. I've only seen one fuel tank that had combustion occur inside it without being damaged first. On this particular vehicle, a pickup cab & chassis, a tech was doing some welding in preparation of installing a utility body on the chassis. I don't know exactly what happened, but there was a flashover of some kind that caused a brief detonation of some sort inside the tank. There was no external damage and no fire beyond the momentary "flash" inside the tank. The interesting part is, that the tank "balooned" somewhat as a result, but did not leak, and after the incident, it held about 3 more gallons than when it was new! -- Make it as simple as possible, but no simpler. Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - |
#30
Posted to rec.woodworking
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If you don't have one....
wrote in message ... The oldest submersed pump system I am familiar with is from the late 80s early 90s GM vehicles using throttle-body injection. This was 1975 GM carbutated. The X bodies in 1980 became some of the first with fuel injection. Even these systems manitained a constant fuel flow with a return line to the fuel tank. As the return fuel is heated during its round trip, pressure in the tank tends to rise due to increased fuel vapor pressure. You have probably experienced the "poof" of escaping vapor when removing a fuel cap. My understanding is that the pressure inside the tank is largely from fuel vapor rather than air. The natural tendency of the system over time is to exclude air from entering. Agreed, however there would surely be times that a cap would be left off and at least a few times air would enter. I do agree, though the idea of the electrically operated fuel pump being inside the tank used to disturb me, however, either through serendipity or design, I have yet to hear of a fuel tank fire caused by an electric pump. And when you think about it (and I realize that the current is limited to an extremely low value) the fuel gauge system is electrically operated, with a sending unit inside the tank that uses a contact that slides over a coil to make a variable resistor. And that type of setup has been in use since before I was born, let alone working on trucks. IIRC the tank sending units had enclosed electrical for the float arm. Just as a possibly interesting story, I have been working in fleet and mobile equipment maintenance for about 29 years now. I've seen a few vehicles that caught on fire, some of them literally burning down to the frame & chassis. I've only seen one fuel tank that had combustion occur inside it without being damaged first. On this particular vehicle, a pickup cab & chassis, a tech was doing some welding in preparation of installing a utility body on the chassis. I don't know exactly what happened, but there was a flashover of some kind that caused a brief detonation of some sort inside the tank. There was no external damage and no fire beyond the momentary "flash" inside the tank. The interesting part is, that the tank "balooned" somewhat as a result, but did not leak, and after the incident, it held about 3 more gallons than when it was new! I was in the industry about 23 years and never saw a problem with tanks either. I am missing something some where. I know that our factory rep could not explaing how the fuel pump would not cause an explosion. |
#31
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If you don't have one....
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#32
Posted to rec.woodworking
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If you don't have one....
"George E. Cawthon" wrote in message I haven't a clue about the electrical operation of the in tank pump. But even with a supposedly empty tank (engine stops running) thee will be enough gasoline to create a mixture of gasoline and oxygen that is too rich to burn. Before any one starts arguing, I and everyone know that explosions and fires do occur around gas tanks. But those occur when a tank ruptures, a spark or open fire is at the mouth of the filling hole, or a very small amount of gas is in the tank when it is welded; all of those can provide at least a pocket of gas/oxygen mixture that will burn. Too rich to burn is real, but with all the possibilities...tough to figure. Do know that fuelling accidents involving vapor pressure in gas tanks are the reason we have to have diesel ambulances now. Can't use the "200 treatment" phrase any more- 100% oxygen 100 mph- because they just never can get there. Used to be a bennie on a rural run. |
#33
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If you don't have one....
On Fri, 19 Jan 2007 22:34:19 -0700, Leon wrote
(in article ): I do agree, though the idea of the electrically operated fuel pump being inside the tank used to disturb me, however, either through serendipity or design, I have yet to hear of a fuel tank fire caused by an electric pump. And when you think about it (and I realize that the current is limited to an extremely low value) the fuel gauge system is electrically operated, with a sending unit inside the tank that uses a contact that slides over a coil to make a variable resistor. And that type of setup has been in use since before I was born, let alone working on trucks. IIRC the tank sending units had enclosed electrical for the float arm. Not for Ford at least. The float arm ran through a slot directly to the wiper arm and resistor winding. -BR |
#34
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If you don't have one....
"Bruce" wrote in message ... On Fri, 19 Jan 2007 22:34:19 -0700, Leon wrote (in article ): I do agree, though the idea of the electrically operated fuel pump being inside the tank used to disturb me, however, either through serendipity or design, I have yet to hear of a fuel tank fire caused by an electric pump. And when you think about it (and I realize that the current is limited to an extremely low value) the fuel gauge system is electrically operated, with a sending unit inside the tank that uses a contact that slides over a coil to make a variable resistor. And that type of setup has been in use since before I was born, let alone working on trucks. IIRC the tank sending units had enclosed electrical for the float arm. Not for Ford at least. The float arm ran through a slot directly to the wiper arm and resistor winding. GM did and or does have the round float arm make a 90 degree turn and go straight into a small sealed up housing. |
#35
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If you don't have one....
Leon wrote:
wrote in message ... I'll take a shot at that one. A few shots actually. First, the submersed electric fuel pumps that I am familiar with, used on some GM vehicles, don't use brushes. Perhaps not now but they absolutely did back in the 70's and 80's. The brushes wearing out was a common cause of failure. Even if they did, gasoline requires oxygen to burn (or explode, which is actually pretty rare except in movies & TV) There is not enough 02 dissolved in gasoline to support combustion, let alone explosion. Something has to displace gasoline as the tank emptys. Most every one runs out of gaoline at one time or another and the fuel pump was exposed to air when the tank was low on fuel. I never really thought about it before, but with fuel system design today, it would be pretty tough to get enough air inside a gas tank to support a fire inside the tank. Of course, someone could forget the gas cap, but even so, it would be unlikely. Air displaces gasoline as the tank emptys or the tank would collapse. Unlikely, very true but what keeps the brushes from causing an explosion? The mixture of gasoline fumes and oxygen would be too rich to explode even if the car ran out of gasoline. IT'S MAGIC.. ;~) No, just basic chemistry. |
#36
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"George E. Cawthon" wrote in message news The mixture of gasoline fumes and oxygen would be too rich to explode even if the car ran out of gasoline. So the car sits with the cap off for a week or two and someone gets in to start the car. There is more to it than a hopefully too rich mixture. Out of millions of cars with this set up there are going to be a many chances offer the years for many of them to have the right mixture. |
#37
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If you don't have one....
On Thu, 18 Jan 2007 21:32:23 -0500, "Allen Roy"
wrote: "Allen Roy" wrote in message ... If you don't have one, they are on sale with free shipping. I know Fein is a superior quality tool but.... http://www.amazon.com/Fein-ASTXE-649...6?ie=UTF8&s=hi Allen I was shocked by the price tag for something that my recip. saw could do. And yes when is the last time you had a sawzall spark on you? Being that there is ventilation for the motor, one would have to assume that either it is made of some real high end materials (gold wiring, some advanced titanium, carbon fiber body) or that the price is in error. Also I would like to find the concrete and cast iron cutting blades for it. I could see this as being spark free.. http://www.amazon.com/Fein-MOT-6-18-...6?ie=UTF8&s=hi And sorry to our Canadian friends, it can only be shipped in the U.S. Will your recip saw take a 37 inch blade for cutting over 20 inches of structural steel? As for the concrete and cast iron blades, it took me about 30 seconds of searching to find sources--google "fein hacksaw blades" and you'll get a link to the part numbers, google the part numbers and you'll get links to suppliers. The short (20 inch) concrete blade is over 70 bucks. And there's no indication on the Fein site that either saw is "spark free". The price appears to be because this is a honking big saw whose small blades are about the same size as the biggest blades for a Sawzall, and it's not intended to cut steel once in a while, it's intended to cut it all dfay every day. |
#38
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