Well, my vintage 1938 unisaw seems to want to keep running now that
it's started being used again. It simply won't shut off.

First time it happened, I flipped the switch to off, and the saw kept
running, but I immediately flipped it to on then off again and it
stopped. Thus, I thought maybe I imagined the whole thing.

Happened a couple more times and then, last night, it simply stayed
on. Had to unplug it. Plug it in, and it's off and running. Unplug
it to stop. Whilst I'm gluing up the cabinet, I hear a click from
the direction of the saw (~4' behind me) but it's only noted in
passing. But, when I next use the saw (say 10 minutes later), voila,
it turns off via the switch!

Anyhow, I guess it's time for a new switch, non?
I took the cover off and there was nothing notable that would
seemingly interfere w/it's operation.

What was the click?

I'm thinking of simply running out to the nearest electrical supply
place (no, not home depot) and getting a replacement. Any reason not
to go this route vs the fancy, expensive one from Delta?

Thanx
Renata

On Wed, 27 Dec 2006 14:12:52 GMT, Renata
wrote:

Well, my vintage 1938 unisaw seems to want to keep running now that
it's started being used again. It simply won't shut off.

First time it happened, I flipped the switch to off, and the saw kept
running, but I immediately flipped it to on then off again and it
stopped. Thus, I thought maybe I imagined the whole thing.

Happened a couple more times and then, last night, it simply stayed
on. Had to unplug it. Plug it in, and it's off and running. Unplug
it to stop. Whilst I'm gluing up the cabinet, I hear a click from
the direction of the saw (~4' behind me) but it's only noted in
passing. But, when I next use the saw (say 10 minutes later), voila,
it turns off via the switch!

Anyhow, I guess it's time for a new switch, non?
I took the cover off and there was nothing notable that would
seemingly interfere w/it's operation.

What was the click?

I'm thinking of simply running out to the nearest electrical supply
place (no, not home depot) and getting a replacement. Any reason not
to go this route vs the fancy, expensive one from Delta?

Thanx
Renata



Voltage?

Renata wrote:
Well, my vintage 1938 unisaw seems to want to keep running now that
it's started being used again. It simply won't shut off.

Anyhow, I guess it's time for a new switch, non?
I took the cover off and there was nothing notable that would
seemingly interfere w/it's operation.

What was the click?

I'm thinking of simply running out to the nearest electrical supply
place (no, not home depot) and getting a replacement. Any reason not
to go this route vs the fancy, expensive one from Delta?

Thanx
Renata

The fancy one from Delta is magnetic. It requires electric power to
stay in the "on" position. If the power goes off, or you trip a
breaker while it's on, it won't re-start accidentally when the power is
restored, even if you forget to turn it off.

The click you heard was probably the switch releasing itself to the off
position after it got tired of having fun with you.

An electrical supply house should be able to fix you up with an
appropriate switch without going to Delta. Take the information with
you from the motor identification plate (voltage, starting amps,
running amps, etc.).

DonkeyHody
"We can't all be heroes, because someone has to sit on the curb and
clap as they go by." - Will Rogers

On Wed, 27 Dec 2006 14:12:52 GMT, Renata
wrote:

What was the click?

I am unwilling to take a part my 1948 Unisaw switch, but I would think
that the contacts in the switch itself maybe sticking, it maybe due to
connection resistance causing heating and swelling, or dust clogging
mechanicals. As to what is the best replacement for the old style
switch with bullet motor, that will be information I need to file away
for future use. Hopefully someone will be along shortly.

Mark
(sixoneeight) = 618

You may want to look into a "new" type of switch that is safer. The
newer designs are easier to hit in an "emergence"

Renata wrote:

Well, my vintage 1938 unisaw seems to want to keep running now that
it's started being used again. It simply won't shut off.

First time it happened, I flipped the switch to off, and the saw kept
running, but I immediately flipped it to on then off again and it
stopped. Thus, I thought maybe I imagined the whole thing.

Happened a couple more times and then, last night, it simply stayed
on. Had to unplug it. Plug it in, and it's off and running. Unplug
it to stop. Whilst I'm gluing up the cabinet, I hear a click from
the direction of the saw (~4' behind me) but it's only noted in
passing. But, when I next use the saw (say 10 minutes later), voila,
it turns off via the switch!

Anyhow, I guess it's time for a new switch, non?
I took the cover off and there was nothing notable that would
seemingly interfere w/it's operation.

What was the click?

I'm thinking of simply running out to the nearest electrical supply
place (no, not home depot) and getting a replacement. Any reason not
to go this route vs the fancy, expensive one from Delta?

Thanx
Renata

Renata wrote:
Anyhow, I guess it's time for a new switch, non?

Not just a switch, but a proper no-volts-release motor starter.

Also add yourself a knee-paddle off switch.

Renata wrote:
Well, my vintage 1938 unisaw seems to want to keep running now that
it's started being used again. It simply won't shut off.


You're going to need lots of wood! G

I had a very cheap plastic rocker switch get filled w/ sawdust. The sawdust
physically prevented the conductor inside form moving to engage/disengage
the alternate position on and off the electrical conductor points. I had to
flip it on/off like craxzy, and it may or may not have done anything. After
a while it burned the conductors away by flipping it. It was dangerous as
far as there was no way to tell when or how it would recieve power. I do
not know the schematics, or if there was any other serious electrical
hazard.



----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

"Markem" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 27 Dec 2006 14:12:52 GMT, Renata
wrote:

What was the click?

I am unwilling to take a part my 1948 Unisaw switch, but I would think
that the contacts in the switch itself maybe sticking, it maybe due to
connection resistance causing heating and swelling, or dust clogging
mechanicals. As to what is the best replacement for the old style
switch with bullet motor, that will be information I need to file away
for future use. Hopefully someone will be along shortly.

Mark
(sixoneeight) = 618

One of the maintenance procedures is to exercise switches every few months
or once a year to prevent it from sticking. Use it or loose it philosophy.
Sounds like its just sticking and needed to be cleaned and lubed.

I was actually able to take it all apart (outer housing/wires//switch/rocker
conductor/gasket) to the basics, while the housing was still on the saw.
Cleaned it up, and re-assembled with e- tape everywhere. I could re-use it
only b/c it was a 110/220 and had duplicate rocker conductor spring bridges
to the points, though one was fried, it still had spring function for the
click rocker action. Just moved the outer wires from 0-110V to the 111-220V
side. |_ to _|

if yours is different, magnetic, I know nothing. Be thinking of price, and
if it is expensive, you may have options.



----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

it is common for switches to be plugged with sawdust, and can be aggravated
when the sawdust is wet. The tiniest holes allow it in. It is like
cleaning out a shaver of whiskers.



----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

with mine, it had to be taken apart, all the air for all the time in the
world wouldn't work; elbow grease and a fine paint brush.



----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeeds.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 120,000+ Newsgroups
----= East and West-Coast Server Farms - Total Privacy via Encryption =----

Renata wrote:


I'm thinking of simply running out to the nearest electrical supply
place (no, not home depot) and getting a replacement. Any reason not
to go this route vs the fancy, expensive one from Delta?


Good game plan.

Look for the Allen-Bradley distributor in your area.

They tend to serve the industrial rather than the contractor segment
of the electrical market.

Doubt you will find an exact replacement due to age, but you should be
able to get a functional replacement with no problem.

Lew

Renata wrote:
Well, my vintage 1938 unisaw seems to want to keep running now that
it's started being used again. It simply won't shut off.

First time it happened, I flipped the switch to off, and the saw kept
running, but I immediately flipped it to on then off again and it
stopped. Thus, I thought maybe I imagined the whole thing.

Happened a couple more times and then, last night, it simply stayed
on. Had to unplug it. Plug it in, and it's off and running. Unplug
it to stop. Whilst I'm gluing up the cabinet, I hear a click from
the direction of the saw (~4' behind me) but it's only noted in
passing. But, when I next use the saw (say 10 minutes later), voila,
it turns off via the switch!

Anyhow, I guess it's time for a new switch, non?
I took the cover off and there was nothing notable that would
seemingly interfere w/it's operation.

What was the click?

I'm thinking of simply running out to the nearest electrical supply
place (no, not home depot) and getting a replacement. Any reason not
to go this route vs the fancy, expensive one from Delta?

Thanx
Renata


No reason you need a delta switch. Probably better off with a good
magnetic motor starter anyway. Much better than that old toggle
switch.

Just curious though, since Delta only began selling The Unisaw in 1939,
how did you get one from 1938.

On Wed, 27 Dec 2006 14:12:52 GMT, Renata
wrote:

Well, my vintage 1938 unisaw seems to want to keep running now that
it's started being used again. It simply won't shut off.

If it has that art-deco style switch cover keep it. It does have some
value to guys who are restoring those machines.

Mike O.

Renata wrote:
Well, my vintage 1938 unisaw seems to want to keep running now that
it's started being used again. It simply won't shut off.

First time it happened, I flipped the switch to off, and the saw kept
running, but I immediately flipped it to on then off again and it
stopped. Thus, I thought maybe I imagined the whole thing.

Happened a couple more times and then, last night, it simply stayed
on. Had to unplug it. Plug it in, and it's off and running. Unplug
it to stop. Whilst I'm gluing up the cabinet, I hear a click from
the direction of the saw (~4' behind me) but it's only noted in
passing. But, when I next use the saw (say 10 minutes later), voila,
it turns off via the switch!

Anyhow, I guess it's time for a new switch, non?
I took the cover off and there was nothing notable that would
seemingly interfere w/it's operation.

What was the click?

I'm thinking of simply running out to the nearest electrical supply
place (no, not home depot) and getting a replacement. Any reason not
to go this route vs the fancy, expensive one from Delta?

Thanx
Renata



I have an old heavy duty double pole switch on a
jointer that my FIL gave me. Acted much as you
described. Decided I need to buy a new one and
installed it but still took the old one apart.
The old one came apart easily and only needed
needed some small pieces of wood removed and
cleaned up to snap closed and snap open correctly.
I kept the old one and am not sure if it
isn't constructed better than the new one I installed.

On 27 Dec 2006 18:16:31 -0800, "A.M. Wood"
wrote:


Renata wrote:
Well, my vintage 1938 unisaw seems to want to keep running now that
it's started being used again. It simply won't shut off.

-snip-

Just curious though, since Delta only began selling The Unisaw in 1939,
how did you get one from 1938.

That's my little secret and if I tell you I have to...

I assumed (silly me) that since the serial number starts with "38-..."
it meant 1938 plus the production run #. Guess I'll have to look it
up, maybe on OWWM.

Renata

On Wed, 27 Dec 2006 08:27:47 -0600, Frank Boettcher
wrote:

On Wed, 27 Dec 2006 14:12:52 GMT, Renata
wrote:

Well, my vintage 1938 unisaw seems to want to keep running now that
it's started being used again. It simply won't shut off.

First time it happened, I flipped the switch to off, and the saw kept
running, but I immediately flipped it to on then off again and it
stopped. Thus, I thought maybe I imagined the whole thing.

Happened a couple more times and then, last night, it simply stayed
on. Had to unplug it. Plug it in, and it's off and running. Unplug
it to stop. Whilst I'm gluing up the cabinet, I hear a click from
the direction of the saw (~4' behind me) but it's only noted in
passing. But, when I next use the saw (say 10 minutes later), voila,
it turns off via the switch!

Anyhow, I guess it's time for a new switch, non?
I took the cover off and there was nothing notable that would
seemingly interfere w/it's operation.

What was the click?

I'm thinking of simply running out to the nearest electrical supply
place (no, not home depot) and getting a replacement. Any reason not
to go this route vs the fancy, expensive one from Delta?

Thanx
Renata



Voltage?

220V

R

On Thu, 28 Dec 2006 13:11:41 GMT, Renata
wrote:

On 27 Dec 2006 18:16:31 -0800, "A.M. Wood"
wrote:


Renata wrote:
Well, my vintage 1938 unisaw seems to want to keep running now that
it's started being used again. It simply won't shut off.

-snip-

Just curious though, since Delta only began selling The Unisaw in 1939,
how did you get one from 1938.

That's my little secret and if I tell you I have to...

I assumed (silly me) that since the serial number starts with "38-..."
it meant 1938 plus the production run #. Guess I'll have to look it
up, maybe on OWWM.

That would be 1945 model from OWWM serial number list.

Mark
(sixoneeight) = 618

On 27 Dec 2006 18:16:31 -0800, "A.M. Wood"
wrote:


Renata wrote:
Well, my vintage 1938 unisaw seems to want to keep running now that
it's started being used again. It simply won't shut off.

First time it happened, I flipped the switch to off, and the saw kept
running, but I immediately flipped it to on then off again and it
stopped. Thus, I thought maybe I imagined the whole thing.

Happened a couple more times and then, last night, it simply stayed
on. Had to unplug it. Plug it in, and it's off and running. Unplug
it to stop. Whilst I'm gluing up the cabinet, I hear a click from
the direction of the saw (~4' behind me) but it's only noted in
passing. But, when I next use the saw (say 10 minutes later), voila,
it turns off via the switch!

Anyhow, I guess it's time for a new switch, non?
I took the cover off and there was nothing notable that would
seemingly interfere w/it's operation.

What was the click?

I'm thinking of simply running out to the nearest electrical supply
place (no, not home depot) and getting a replacement. Any reason not
to go this route vs the fancy, expensive one from Delta?

Thanx
Renata


No reason you need a delta switch. Probably better off with a good
magnetic motor starter anyway. Much better than that old toggle
switch.

Just curious though, since Delta only began selling The Unisaw in 1939,
how did you get one from 1938.

Oops - maybe I should get a new prescription.

It is indeed 39-2611.

Renata

If you'd be so kind as to lend a wee bit further assitance...

Got an Allen-Bradley 600 Type 1General Purpose enclosed switch.
Here's what the box says:

1HP
277VAC 1PH max
3/4 HP
230VDC MAX
2 Pole

Should I read that as appropriate for 1HP for AC and 3/4HP DC?

Is this the switch correct? The counter guy seemed a little lost (and
it wasn't even a HD!); think he was new.

Is there a better option?

Thanx
Renata

On Wed, 27 Dec 2006 20:35:38 GMT, Lew Hodgett
wrote:

Renata wrote:


I'm thinking of simply running out to the nearest electrical supply
place (no, not home depot) and getting a replacement. Any reason not
to go this route vs the fancy, expensive one from Delta?


Good game plan.

Look for the Allen-Bradley distributor in your area.

They tend to serve the industrial rather than the contractor segment
of the electrical market.

Doubt you will find an exact replacement due to age, but you should be
able to get a functional replacement with no problem.

Lew

Renata wrote:

If you'd be so kind as to lend a wee bit further assitance...

Got an Allen-Bradley 600 Type 1General Purpose enclosed switch.
Here's what the box says:

1HP
277VAC 1PH max
3/4 HP
230VDC MAX
2 Pole

Should I read that as appropriate for 1HP for AC and 3/4HP DC?

Yes.

Is this the switch correct?

The counter guy seemed a little lost (and
it wasn't even a HD!); think he was new.


It should do the job; however, it sounds like you have a unit that
comes with it's own NEMA 1 enclosure.

You should be able to get an "open" version (no enclosure) that will
mount in the existing opening on the T/S.

Probably save you a few $.

Have fun.

It's the holiday week, about the only people working are the rookies.

BTW, they put every rookie on the counter to start, then ask them to
take care of the good looking women who walk in asking, "Can you help
me?"G

If they survive, they're off probation.




Lew

Mark...

I also have a 1948 Unisaw which has been fully restored and upgraded
although it still has the original bullet motor (runs like a champ).
I've added the Biesmeyer, table extension, and a few months agao, I
decided to retire the (working) OEM switch and I installed a Craftsman
large paddle safety switch over on the left. I think I paid $50 for
it from Sears parts... whatever. What I did was rewire it with a
longer power in cable, and after removing the old switch, simply
connected the switch-out cable inside the old Unisaw box. I then made
an .080" aluminum plate to match the rounded-corner box and covered up
the connection. I'm sure you could get by with a less-expensive
switch, but after a few months of actually using the paddle switch...
I love it. Its a a big improvement over having to hunt for the OEM
switch if you've got 5" of Biesmeyer steel extending the profile of
the saw.

And no... I'd never consider selling the OEM Delta switch,
switchplate, or dust door. All carefully stored away.

Mike

On Wed, 27 Dec 2006 08:31:17 -0600, Markem
wrote:

On Wed, 27 Dec 2006 14:12:52 GMT, Renata
wrote:

What was the click?

I am unwilling to take a part my 1948 Unisaw switch, but I would think
that the contacts in the switch itself maybe sticking, it maybe due to
connection resistance causing heating and swelling, or dust clogging
mechanicals. As to what is the best replacement for the old style
switch with bullet motor, that will be information I need to file away
for future use. Hopefully someone will be along shortly.

Mark
(sixoneeight) = 618