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Default I got my TS switch apart, it's worse...

Anyone familiar with the inside of this type of switch may be able to help
me out. The wiring, switch, and thermal overload reset switch is surrounded
by a plastic housing. Got that off. Then disconnected the wires, and took
out the switches. Took the 2 wires off the prongs on the back of the main
power switch (which actually has 4 prongs), and separated it from the sheet
metal frame with the plastic clips a in a plastic shroud which also holds
the back of the switch to the front. The sheet metal has got an opening of
about 1.5" high by .83" wide.

The insides of the main power switch has 2 sets of copper flat spring-like
conductors, which are engaged by the motion of the rocker on the front. For
conductivity inside the springs and the housing have metal projections,
which are connected to the 4 wire connections at the rear of the switch, on
the back of its housing. Not only did it have sawdust in there, but one set
of projections was pitted. Well not pitted, melted almost completely away.
And the spring (rocking conductor) itself is black.

There are 4 wire connections on the back of this switch. Only two were
being used. i.e. with wires to it. The other side is a duplicate. Those
projections/spring conductor are fine

Is it safe to reconnect on the other side with the remaining spring, with
its good protuberances and spring and using the other 2 wire connector
prongs at the back? Can I leave the fried spring out if/when I re-install
it?

Is this a poor switch? Or is this switch designed for something with less
power? WTD?

If I need to get a new one altogether, would I find one the same size, and
or style do you think. However I am not adverse to creating another mount.



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