Hi,

So I bought some 8/4 soft maple, with the thought that I could resaw it
into 5/8" boards. I've got a 3 TPI 3/4" blade on my 14" Grizzy G0555. I
went to resaw, and I found that the blade was cutting further to the
left on the bottom of the workpiece (where the blade was exiting) than
where it was on top. So I've managed to resaw several tapered pieces.



How do I avoid this? I've never really resawn successfully, or with any
intention of getting it perfect. I know that it can be done with this
saw, and even cheaper 14inch versions.


Any hints as to what I can check out? Again - I'm following my resaw
line up top, perfectly (I've got a single point rip fence that I built
for being able to turn the pieces, if needed.) But the bottom of the
cut is not at all in line with the top of the cut.


- Thanks in advance,

Todd

"Todd" wrote in message
ups.com...
Hi,

So I bought some 8/4 soft maple, with the thought that I could resaw it
into 5/8" boards. I've got a 3 TPI 3/4" blade on my 14" Grizzy G0555. I
went to resaw, and I found that the blade was cutting further to the
left on the bottom of the workpiece (where the blade was exiting) than
where it was on top. So I've managed to resaw several tapered pieces.



How do I avoid this? I've never really resawn successfully, or with any
intention of getting it perfect. I know that it can be done with this
saw, and even cheaper 14inch versions.


Any hints as to what I can check out? Again - I'm following my resaw
line up top, perfectly (I've got a single point rip fence that I built
for being able to turn the pieces, if needed.) But the bottom of the
cut is not at all in line with the top of the cut.

If you do a google search you will find more on drift than you could read in
a lifetime.

I think it is caused by improper tension. Play around with your tension and
see if you can make it go away that way.

I resawed a piece of walnut yesterday. I came in a third of the way on top
and bottom on my TS and finished on the BS. It wastes a little wood,
requires more planing and makes more dust, but I find it easier than doing
it all on the BS.

I think you have a good idea there. I noticed that my spring was fully
compressed, and i'm still not tensioned up enough...I realized that I
have a stop collar on my tensioning knob. Right now, it sits on TOP of
the carriage that contains the spring. I could put it on the
tensioning knob BELOW the carriage that contains the spring, and then
tension. I think that this will be my next effort. We'll see.


- Thanks for your help.

Todd


On Nov 28, 9:43 am, "Toller" wrote:
"Todd" wrote in oglegroups.com...

Hi,

So I bought some 8/4 soft maple, with the thought that I could resaw it
into 5/8" boards. I've got a 3 TPI 3/4" blade on my 14" Grizzy G0555. I
went to resaw, and I found that the blade was cutting further to the
left on the bottom of the workpiece (where the blade was exiting) than
where it was on top. So I've managed to resaw several tapered pieces.

How do I avoid this? I've never really resawn successfully, or with any
intention of getting it perfect. I know that it can be done with this
saw, and even cheaper 14inch versions.

Any hints as to what I can check out? Again - I'm following my resaw
line up top, perfectly (I've got a single point rip fence that I built
for being able to turn the pieces, if needed.) But the bottom of the
cut is not at all in line with the top of the cut.If you do a google search you will find more on drift than you could read in
a lifetime.

I think it is caused by improper tension. Play around with your tension and
see if you can make it go away that way.

I resawed a piece of walnut yesterday. I came in a third of the way on top
and bottom on my TS and finished on the BS. It wastes a little wood,
requires more planing and makes more dust, but I find it easier than doing
it all on the BS.

Todd wrote:

I went to resaw, and I found that the blade was cutting further to the
left on the bottom of the workpiece (where the blade was exiting) than
where it was on top. So I've managed to resaw several tapered pieces.

Sounds like your table is not perpendicular to the blade.

Chris

"Chris Friesen" wrote in message
...
Todd wrote:

I went to resaw, and I found that the blade was cutting further to the
left on the bottom of the workpiece (where the blade was exiting) than
where it was on top. So I've managed to resaw several tapered pieces.

Sounds like your table is not perpendicular to the blade.


Yep, I think that has possibilities, but if the fence is parallel to the
blade, and I assume that's true, won't make a difference, as long as the
piece guides on the fence.

I hedge my bets when resawing by getting a flat face and a square edge to
reference. Between the two of them, even I can get decent resaws.

Low tension normally shows up as a belly in the board next to the fence. So
does overfeeding.

Perhaps a featherboard to make _sure_ the bottom is snug against the bottom
of the fence would help.

Todd wrote:
Hi,

So I bought some 8/4 soft maple, with the thought that I could resaw it
into 5/8" boards. I've got a 3 TPI 3/4" blade on my 14" Grizzy G0555. I
went to resaw, and I found that the blade was cutting further to the
left on the bottom of the workpiece (where the blade was exiting) than
where it was on top. So I've managed to resaw several tapered pieces.



How do I avoid this? I've never really resawn successfully, or with any
intention of getting it perfect. I know that it can be done with this
saw, and even cheaper 14inch versions.


Any hints as to what I can check out? Again - I'm following my resaw
line up top, perfectly (I've got a single point rip fence that I built
for being able to turn the pieces, if needed.) But the bottom of the
cut is not at all in line with the top of the cut.


- Thanks in advance,

Todd

I have the same saw/blade setup and can resaw wafer thin pieces so it
can definitely be done. My process was to remove any drift by using the
tracking knob and then I made sure that the table was exactly square
with the blade, after that was dialed in I had no problems at all just
using the regular fence to get some nicely resawed boards.

My bet is that you have a bit of a drift problem and that your single
point isn't perfectly aligned with the front of the blade.

Todd wrote:
Hi,

So I bought some 8/4 soft maple, with the thought that I could resaw it
into 5/8" boards. I've got a 3 TPI 3/4" blade on my 14" Grizzy G0555. I
went to resaw, and I found that the blade was cutting further to the
left on the bottom of the workpiece (where the blade was exiting) than
where it was on top. So I've managed to resaw several tapered pieces.



How do I avoid this? I've never really resawn successfully, or with any
intention of getting it perfect. I know that it can be done with this
saw, and even cheaper 14inch versions.


Any hints as to what I can check out? Again - I'm following my resaw
line up top, perfectly (I've got a single point rip fence that I built
for being able to turn the pieces, if needed.) But the bottom of the
cut is not at all in line with the top of the cut.


- Thanks in advance,

Todd

Could be because you are using a single point what's happening is that
when you are twisting to take drift into account it's pushing the blade
away hence the taper (if the point isn't perfectly aligned with the
teeth). I'd nix the point, track away any drift, square things up and
use the stock fence.

Sounds like your table is not perpendicular to the blade.

Chris

That was my thought - check against a square, and also against a line
drawn on the leading edge of your workpiece. If the cut is straight,
but just at an angle, I'd play with the table before the tension.
Good luck,
Andy

I think it is caused by improper tension. Play around with your tension and
see if you can make it go away that way.

Tension problems usually result in a bowed cut or lots of little
ridges. Easiest way to remove drift is to adjust the tracking of the
blade so that it goes away.

Andy wrote:
Sounds like your table is not perpendicular to the blade.

Chris

That was my thought - check against a square, and also against a line
drawn on the leading edge of your workpiece. If the cut is straight,
but just at an angle, I'd play with the table before the tension.
Good luck,
Andy

I read his post as saying that the issue is that at the beginning of
the cut the blade is aligned up with his line (say at 1/8) but by the
end of the cut the blade pops out at 1/4 inch?

Chris Friesen wrote:
Todd wrote:

I went to resaw, and I found that the blade was cutting further to the
left on the bottom of the workpiece (where the blade was exiting) than
where it was on top. So I've managed to resaw several tapered pieces.

Sounds like your table is not perpendicular to the blade.

Chris

Upon re-reading the post Chris got it, the table isn't square to the
blade.

Upon re-reading the post Chris got it, the table isn't square to the
blade.

Upon re-thinking the post, I think George got it - if the workpiece is
guiding against the fence rather than the table, it sounds like the
fence isn't parallel to the blade. Ideally, I'd try to make both the
fence and the blade exactly perpendicular to the table.
Andy

Andy wrote:
Upon re-reading the post Chris got it, the table isn't square to the
blade.

Upon re-thinking the post, I think George got it - if the workpiece is
guiding against the fence rather than the table, it sounds like the
fence isn't parallel to the blade. Ideally, I'd try to make both the
fence and the blade exactly perpendicular to the table.
Andy

My assumption was that the fence was square to the table but yup the
fence isn't square to the blade.

I would assume that you checked that the table is
square to the blade ?

That the blade is tensioned correctly ?

That the material being resawn is flat and square ?

That the blade is up to the task ???

A 3/4" blade is a big blade on a 14" bandsaw and it
is very unlikely that you can get it tensioned
correctly for this operation.

Change it out for a 1/2" 3tpi and give that a shot.


Todd wrote:

Hi,

So I've managed to resaw several tapered pieces.

In article . com,
says...
Hi,

So I bought some 8/4 soft maple, with the thought that I could resaw it
into 5/8" boards. I've got a 3 TPI 3/4" blade on my 14" Grizzy G0555. I
went to resaw, and I found that the blade was cutting further to the
left on the bottom of the workpiece (where the blade was exiting) than
where it was on top. So I've managed to resaw several tapered pieces.



How do I avoid this? I've never really resawn successfully, or with any
intention of getting it perfect. I know that it can be done with this
saw, and even cheaper 14inch versions.


Any hints as to what I can check out? Again - I'm following my resaw
line up top, perfectly (I've got a single point rip fence that I built
for being able to turn the pieces, if needed.) But the bottom of the
cut is not at all in line with the top of the cut.


- Thanks in advance,

Todd

My old bandsaw did that, never mind what I tried. My solution was after 20
years of frustration to shout myself a new saw :-) Now I can follow the line on
top and don't even use a single point fence for ripping ... Bliss!

But anyway, here are some things you might want to check: back off the guides,
make sure the blade is riding in the middle of the wheels, then bring the
guides back to the blade. Make sure the guides are nice and square to the blade
and not worn round or at an angle, and make sure they're set just back from the
teeth . You could even try to rip a scrap without guides and see how that goes!

I probably don't need to mention making sure the timber has a solid surface
that goes over the table (rather than splintery rough-sawn that can rock) but
you may also want to look at the endgrain and see what the grain is doing
w.r.t. the deviation you're seeing. It shouldn't throw the blade off everything
else being set up right, but ...

h.t.h. -Peter

--
=========================================
firstname dot lastname at gmail fullstop com

I built a taller fence that fits over the stock fence to gain some fence
height. Provided the fence is perpendicular to the table and parallel with
the blade, I can slice off some pretty thin pieces. Make sure you have a
sharp blade, and tension it right. My saw has a indicator that shows where
to crank the tension to according to blade size, but I usually run a scrap
through to test things before resawing the good stuff. Also, I never did
have any luck with the single point attachment that came with the
aw. --dave



"Peter Huebner" wrote in message
t...
In article . com,
says...
Hi,

So I bought some 8/4 soft maple, with the thought that I could resaw it
into 5/8" boards. I've got a 3 TPI 3/4" blade on my 14" Grizzy G0555. I
went to resaw, and I found that the blade was cutting further to the
left on the bottom of the workpiece (where the blade was exiting) than
where it was on top. So I've managed to resaw several tapered pieces.



How do I avoid this? I've never really resawn successfully, or with any
intention of getting it perfect. I know that it can be done with this
saw, and even cheaper 14inch versions.


Any hints as to what I can check out? Again - I'm following my resaw
line up top, perfectly (I've got a single point rip fence that I built
for being able to turn the pieces, if needed.) But the bottom of the
cut is not at all in line with the top of the cut.


- Thanks in advance,

Todd

My old bandsaw did that, never mind what I tried. My solution was after 20
years of frustration to shout myself a new saw :-) Now I can follow the
line on
top and don't even use a single point fence for ripping ... Bliss!

But anyway, here are some things you might want to check: back off the
guides,
make sure the blade is riding in the middle of the wheels, then bring the
guides back to the blade. Make sure the guides are nice and square to the
blade
and not worn round or at an angle, and make sure they're set just back
from the
teeth . You could even try to rip a scrap without guides and see how that
goes!

I probably don't need to mention making sure the timber has a solid
surface
that goes over the table (rather than splintery rough-sawn that can rock)
but
you may also want to look at the endgrain and see what the grain is doing
w.r.t. the deviation you're seeing. It shouldn't throw the blade off
everything
else being set up right, but ...

h.t.h. -Peter

--
=========================================
firstname dot lastname at gmail fullstop com


I choose Polesoft Lockspam to fight spam, and you?
http://www.polesoft.com/refer.html

Thanks for all of the suggestions.


I actually do believe this is a tension issue, at least partly, since
my cuts are experiencing the standard 'bad resawing' traits.

I have a stop collar on the tension bolt, but its on the bolt ABOVE the
carriage mechanism that rises and falls with the wheel, not below. As
a result, the wheel is starting too low to fully tension it.

I'm going to move the stop collar below the carriage, and I should then
be able to properly tension the blade.

I'll try it out and let you know...

On Nov 28, 4:23 pm, "Dave Jackson" wrote:
I built a taller fence that fits over the stock fence to gain some fence
height. Provided the fence is perpendicular to the table and parallel with
the blade, I can slice off some pretty thin pieces. Make sure you have a
sharp blade, and tension it right. My saw has a indicator that shows where
to crank the tension to according to blade size, but I usually run a scrap
through to test things before resawing the good stuff. Also, I never did
have any luck with the single point attachment that came with the
aw. --dave

"Peter Huebner" wrote in dual.net...



In article . com,
says...
Hi,

So I bought some 8/4 soft maple, with the thought that I could resaw it
into 5/8" boards. I've got a 3 TPI 3/4" blade on my 14" Grizzy G0555. I
went to resaw, and I found that the blade was cutting further to the
left on the bottom of the workpiece (where the blade was exiting) than
where it was on top. So I've managed to resaw several tapered pieces.

How do I avoid this? I've never really resawn successfully, or with any
intention of getting it perfect. I know that it can be done with this
saw, and even cheaper 14inch versions.

Any hints as to what I can check out? Again - I'm following my resaw
line up top, perfectly (I've got a single point rip fence that I built
for being able to turn the pieces, if needed.) But the bottom of the
cut is not at all in line with the top of the cut.

- Thanks in advance,

Todd

My old bandsaw did that, never mind what I tried. My solution was after 20
years of frustration to shout myself a new saw :-) Now I can follow the
line on
top and don't even use a single point fence for ripping ... Bliss!

But anyway, here are some things you might want to check: back off the
guides,
make sure the blade is riding in the middle of the wheels, then bring the
guides back to the blade. Make sure the guides are nice and square to the
blade
and not worn round or at an angle, and make sure they're set just back
from the
teeth . You could even try to rip a scrap without guides and see how that
goes!

I probably don't need to mention making sure the timber has a solid
surface
that goes over the table (rather than splintery rough-sawn that can rock)
but
you may also want to look at the endgrain and see what the grain is doing
w.r.t. the deviation you're seeing. It shouldn't throw the blade off
everything
else being set up right, but ...

h.t.h. -Peter

--
=========================================
firstname dot lastname at gmail fullstop comI choose Polesoft Lockspam to fight spam, and you?http://www.polesoft.com/refer.html

I have found (the hard way) that there are so many variables that affect
a band saw that I really had to get some book learning. There's a lot
of information you have to know to adjust, use, and troubleshoot a band
saw. If you don't know that info, you'll be shooting in the dark. Mark
Duginske's book "Band Saw Handbook" is a good place to start and
there are lots of good web sites if you go searching.

A band saw may be less dangerous to use than a table saw but it seems
that getting it to work right is much more complicated. Resawing
is very useful but is especially prone to problems.


"Todd" wrote in message
ups.com...
Hi,

So I bought some 8/4 soft maple, with the thought that I could resaw it
into 5/8" boards. I've got a 3 TPI 3/4" blade on my 14" Grizzy G0555. I
went to resaw, and I found that the blade was cutting further to the
left on the bottom of the workpiece (where the blade was exiting) than
where it was on top. So I've managed to resaw several tapered pieces.



How do I avoid this? I've never really resawn successfully, or with any
intention of getting it perfect. I know that it can be done with this
saw, and even cheaper 14inch versions.


Any hints as to what I can check out? Again - I'm following my resaw
line up top, perfectly (I've got a single point rip fence that I built
for being able to turn the pieces, if needed.) But the bottom of the
cut is not at all in line with the top of the cut.


- Thanks in advance,

Todd

Folks,


Thanks a bunch for your help. I'm very grateful for all of your input.
However, I have found the solution to my problem.


The solution is buying a GOOD bandsaw blade. I went to my local
Woodcraft and bought a Timberwolf blade. I had never used one before,
but figured I'd give it a shot. It was pretty amazing. With something
like 1/3 of the tension that I was giving the previous blade, I was
able to resaw perfectly straight. I couldn't believe it. (ps...I don't
work for woodcraft, or timberwolf, or a distributor of them...I'm just
a REALLY big fan now.)


The woodcraft guy told me that the rule of thumb (which I had never
heard) was buy a blade that is one size SMALLER than the maximum
recommended size on your bandsaw. (So I bought a 1/2 inch 3 tpi instead
of 3/4. )

So a few things I've learned:

a.) if it feels like you're tensioning a blade too much, you probably
are.
b.) use a timberwolf blade, which requires less tensioning
c.) buy one size smaller than the maximum recommended size.

the saw cut like a champ. I still can't believe it, but I was able to
go through 8/4 cherry and ash with dependable accuracy - and STRAIGHT.


I'm interested to know if anyone else has had a similar experience with
their bandsaw/resawing efforts.

- Thanks,


Todd




Billy Smith wrote:
I have found (the hard way) that there are so many variables that affect
a band saw that I really had to get some book learning. There's a lot
of information you have to know to adjust, use, and troubleshoot a band
saw. If you don't know that info, you'll be shooting in the dark. Mark
Duginske's book "Band Saw Handbook" is a good place to start and
there are lots of good web sites if you go searching.

A band saw may be less dangerous to use than a table saw but it seems
that getting it to work right is much more complicated. Resawing
is very useful but is especially prone to problems.


"Todd" wrote in message
ups.com...
Hi,

So I bought some 8/4 soft maple, with the thought that I could resaw it
into 5/8" boards. I've got a 3 TPI 3/4" blade on my 14" Grizzy G0555. I
went to resaw, and I found that the blade was cutting further to the
left on the bottom of the workpiece (where the blade was exiting) than
where it was on top. So I've managed to resaw several tapered pieces.



How do I avoid this? I've never really resawn successfully, or with any
intention of getting it perfect. I know that it can be done with this
saw, and even cheaper 14inch versions.


Any hints as to what I can check out? Again - I'm following my resaw
line up top, perfectly (I've got a single point rip fence that I built
for being able to turn the pieces, if needed.) But the bottom of the
cut is not at all in line with the top of the cut.


- Thanks in advance,

Todd

Hi Todd-
You have gotten some good advice here, so there is not much I can add.
I do agree with you though that the Timberwolf blades are excellent.
When you need to order more you may want to try getting them form PS
Wood directly- since they are a lot cheaper that way then getting them
from Woodcraft- and I used to work for Woodcraft. I like their Bi-Metal
blades, though some of the people on the 'bandsawboxes' Yahoo! group
prefer the carbon steel. Some other members have expressed preferences
for other brands, so you may want to check our archives if you want
some other suggestions.
Donna Menke, author of The Ultimate Band Saw Box Book
www.woodworks-by-donna.com

Todd wrote:
Hi,

So I bought some 8/4 soft maple, with the thought that I could resaw it
into 5/8" boards. I've got a 3 TPI 3/4" blade on my 14" Grizzy G0555. I
went to resaw, and I found that the blade was cutting further to the
left on the bottom of the workpiece (where the blade was exiting) than
where it was on top. So I've managed to resaw several tapered pieces.



How do I avoid this? I've never really resawn successfully, or with any
intention of getting it perfect. I know that it can be done with this
saw, and even cheaper 14inch versions.


Any hints as to what I can check out? Again - I'm following my resaw
line up top, perfectly (I've got a single point rip fence that I built
for being able to turn the pieces, if needed.) But the bottom of the
cut is not at all in line with the top of the cut.


- Thanks in advance,

Todd

"Donna" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hi Todd-
You have gotten some good advice here, so there is not much I can add.
I do agree with you though that the Timberwolf blades are excellent.
When you need to order more you may want to try getting them form PS
Wood directly- since they are a lot cheaper that way then getting them
from Woodcraft- and I used to work for Woodcraft. I like their Bi-Metal
blades, though some of the people on the 'bandsawboxes' Yahoo! group
prefer the carbon steel. Some other members have expressed preferences
for other brands, so you may want to check our archives if you want
some other suggestions.
Donna Menke, author of The Ultimate Band Saw Box Book
www.woodworks-by-donna.com

Todd wrote:
Hi,

So I bought some 8/4 soft maple, with the thought that I could resaw it
into 5/8" boards. I've got a 3 TPI 3/4" blade on my 14" Grizzy G0555. I
went to resaw, and I found that the blade was cutting further to the
left on the bottom of the workpiece (where the blade was exiting) than
where it was on top. So I've managed to resaw several tapered pieces.



How do I avoid this? I've never really resawn successfully, or with any
intention of getting it perfect. I know that it can be done with this
saw, and even cheaper 14inch versions.


Any hints as to what I can check out? Again - I'm following my resaw
line up top, perfectly (I've got a single point rip fence that I built
for being able to turn the pieces, if needed.) But the bottom of the
cut is not at all in line with the top of the cut.


- Thanks in advance,

Todd


I've been less than satisfied with the Timberwolf blades. You might want to
consider the blades from BC saw and Tool. (I have no connection with them.)

I installed a new spring on my Jet 14" band saw with a riser kit. I went to
the BC saw blade, 3 tpi skip tooth . All this was done in accordance with
the Michael Fortune article in Wood magazine.
I am happy with them. There is absolutely no blade movement at the weld.

I had one blade on my saw that was hammering the thrust bearing every time
the weld passed the bearing. The whole saw was shaking and baking with that
blade.

Its funny...i was _USING_ an olson blade, and thats what caused me all
of the problems. Yes, I agree that the blade I bought is more expensive
than the others, but in my (limited) experience, it has been worth it.

My saw has NEVER cut so well as it does with the Timberwolf blade. What
is the difference between that and the BC blade? I've never heard of
them.

- Todd


B A R R Y wrote:
On Sat, 02 Dec 2006 22:29:56 GMT, "Lowell Holmes"
wrote:


I've been less than satisfied with the Timberwolf blades. You might want to
consider the blades from BC saw and Tool. (I have no connection with them.)

Same here...

I can get BC Saw or basic Olsen (via Coastal) blades for ~ $10-12 for
a 1/2" x 93" 3 TPI, and they work great on my Delta 14".

Do I need to plane the cut surface? Yes, for one, maybe two, passes.

Do I care?

No! If I don't have to pay $30 for a 93" bandsaw blade . G

Learn to tune the saw and forever save $18 per blade.

BC Saw http://www.bcsaw.com/ is a company who welds and sells band
saw blades direct, for maybe $12 each, for (4+) 93.5" or 105" blades.

Another good company from which to buy blades is Iturra Designs (no
website, 866-883-8064). They have a variety of types and sizes of
blades, and their catalog is packed full of other information, reviews,
tests, background of manufacturers, etc., as well as bandsaw blades and
accessories. I'd highly recommend you call them and at least get a
catalog. I've been very happy with their blades - better quality than
the timberwolf ones I tried, for competitive prices ($15ish IIRC).
They also have more expensive bimetal and even carbide-tipped ($100++)
blades, and they give detailed descriptions and pros and cons of each.
Good luck,
Andy

"Todd" wrote in message
oups.com...
Its funny...i was _USING_ an olson blade, and thats what caused me all
of the problems. Yes, I agree that the blade I bought is more expensive
than the others, but in my (limited) experience, it has been worth it.

My saw has NEVER cut so well as it does with the Timberwolf blade. What
is the difference between that and the BC blade? I've never heard of
them.


A bit of it is you have a freshly sharpened blade on now that you're still
comparing to what the prior had become. Blades are like sandpaper, you
don't really think about how much time you could have saved until you change
to fresh.

I got some Olson blades, they seemed to do well enough. Differences in
tooth and gullet geometry make it difficult to make anything like a
realistic comparison, but I'm back, as before to the Suffolk (Timberwolf)
blades because I'm used to their pattern and therefore their limitations as
well as strengths. Skips don't saw like hooks and thins like thick, and
even in the Suffolk family there's an entirely different feeling when moving
from a wet wood hacker to a resaw to a semi-scroll.

"Todd" wrote in message
oups.com...
Folks,


Thanks a bunch for your help. I'm very grateful for all of your input.
However, I have found the solution to my problem.


The solution is buying a GOOD bandsaw blade. I went to my local
Woodcraft and bought a Timberwolf blade. I had never used one before,
but figured I'd give it a shot. It was pretty amazing. With something
like 1/3 of the tension that I was giving the previous blade, I was
able to resaw perfectly straight. I couldn't believe it. (ps...I don't
work for woodcraft, or timberwolf, or a distributor of them...I'm just
a REALLY big fan now.)


The woodcraft guy told me that the rule of thumb (which I had never
heard) was buy a blade that is one size SMALLER than the maximum
recommended size on your bandsaw. (So I bought a 1/2 inch 3 tpi instead
of 3/4. )

So a few things I've learned:

a.) if it feels like you're tensioning a blade too much, you probably
are.
b.) use a timberwolf blade, which requires less tensioning
c.) buy one size smaller than the maximum recommended size.

the saw cut like a champ. I still can't believe it, but I was able to
go through 8/4 cherry and ash with dependable accuracy - and STRAIGHT.


I'm interested to know if anyone else has had a similar experience with
their bandsaw/resawing efforts.

- Thanks,

Yup, can't beat the Timberwolf........

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users.
It has removed 3414 spam emails to date.
Paying users do not have this message in their emails.
Try SPAMfighter for free now!