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#1
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Should I go the other way H vs V
A while back I had trouble finishing a table top with Varnish over BLO
(tiny bubbles in my finish, makes me feel sad). With help from the wreck I got it right by thinning the varnish more and applying it with a rag instead of a brush. Thinking back I had no trouble with the legs and apron of the table. Aside from the size of the top compared to the size of the apron the only difference was I was applying the finish vertically on the apron and horizontally on the top. A quick google only leads to "less likely to have dust problems when the piece is vertical". How do you orient a piece when applying finish, horizontally or vertically? Does it matter? |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Should I go the other way H vs V
RayV wrote:
A quick google only leads to "less likely to have dust problems when the piece is vertical". More likely to have runs when the piece is vertical. Chris |
#3
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Should I go the other way H vs V
In article om, "RayV" wrote:
A while back I had trouble finishing a table top with Varnish over BLO (tiny bubbles in my finish, makes me feel sad). With help from the wreck I got it right by thinning the varnish more and applying it with a rag instead of a brush. Thinking back I had no trouble with the legs and apron of the table. Aside from the size of the top compared to the size of the apron the only difference was I was applying the finish vertically on the apron and horizontally on the top. A quick google only leads to "less likely to have dust problems when the piece is vertical". How do you orient a piece when applying finish, horizontally or vertically? Hoizontally. Because: 1. Less risk of runs 2. I can see the job better 3. My bench is horizontal ;-) Even though there must be more exposure to airborn dust particles. I recently refinished a whole bunch of kitchen cabinets with an oil based poly. I used a (Wooster) foam brush and was most impressed with it. It's a relatively idiot proof way to apply a nice thin and even finish, free from brush marks and bubble problems. Yes, I did thin the poly a little too. Also, bear in mind that a very light sanding between coats will ensure that imperfections from dust particles and bubbles do not accumulate as you apply successive coats. -- |~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~| | Malcolm Hoar "The more I practice, the luckier I get". | | Gary Player. | | http://www.malch.com/ Shpx gur PQN. | ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ |
#4
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Should I go the other way H vs V
Malcolm Hoar wrote: snip I recently refinished a whole bunch of kitchen cabinets with an oil based poly. I used a (Wooster) foam brush and was most impressed with it. It's a relatively idiot proof way to apply a nice thin and even finish, free from brush marks and bubble problems. Yes, I did thin the poly a little too. I also tried the Wooster brush on H2O based poly and it worked great. I even took the time to rinse it out afterwards instead of throwing it out. Worth the extra buck or two over the cheaper brushes. Now if I could could just convince myself to stop buying cheap router bits... |
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