I was told that an excellent finish for wood was tung oil, varnish,
mineral spirits and japanese drying agent. Does anyone else have any
info on this. And what quantities of these agents would I use.

In article .com,
wrote:
I was told that an excellent finish for wood was tung oil, varnish,
mineral spirits and japanese drying agent. Does anyone else have any
info on this. And what quantities of these agents would I use.

Google on "Japan drier".

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

wrote in message
oups.com...
I was told that an excellent finish for wood was tung oil, varnish,
mineral spirits and japanese drying agent. Does anyone else have any
info on this. And what quantities of these agents would I use.

If it was so excellent someone would be selling it. They might even call it
danish oil.

wrote:
I was told that an excellent finish for wood was tung oil, varnish,
mineral spirits and japanese drying agent. Does anyone else have any
info on this. And what quantities of these agents would I use.

You are talking about the basic recipe for about a million different
home brew and over the counter recipes. The one thing you don't need
in the mix is the japan drier. That was developed years ago as an
agent to hurry the drying time of the old oil base finishes that you
used to paint wood trim, doors, houses etc., and anything else that was
painted. It was developed because the old oil bases took hours and
hours to dry. You literally could come back after painting on a 60
degree day to the house or project and it would still be sticky the
next day, 24 hours later.

Not good.

But it changes the properties of the resins and I personally have
burned up finishes by putting that stuff in them. Use more thinner in
your finish, or a hotter thinner, not Japan drier to get the finish to
kick faster.

Robert

It precluded the appearanc

wrote:
I was told that an excellent finish for wood was tung oil, varnish,
mineral spirits and japanese drying agent. Does anyone else have any
info on this. And what quantities of these agents would I use.

You are talking about the basic recipe for about a million different
home brew and over the counter recipes. The one thing you don't need
in the mix is the japan drier. That was developed years ago as an
agent to hurry the drying time of the old oil base finishes that you
used to paint wood trim, doors, houses etc., and anything else that was
painted. It was developed because the old oil bases took hours and
hours to dry. You literally could come back after painting on a 60
degree day to the house or project and it would still be sticky the
next day, 24 hours later.

Not good.

But it changes the properties of the resins and I personally have
burned up finishes by putting that stuff in them. Use more thinner in
your finish, or a hotter thinner, not Japan drier to get the finish to
kick faster.

Robert

It precluded the appearanc