Kitchen cabinet doors. Any reason not to do this?
 

All but of couple of my upper doors are true divided lite. To make
these I purchased the freud 99-270 router bit set. For the lower doors
and drawer faces and two upper doors I was planing on flat panel
construction with the panel fitting into a grove in the rail and
stiles. The divided lite set won't make this type. It doesn't cut a
groove but a rabbit. Is it inappropriate to mount panels in a rabbit
and apply some kind of backing around the edge to hold it in just like
they were glass panels. I can't imagine why this won't work. But,
want to be sure before I mess up some expensive wood. Also, I want
things to look good and be "right". Would I be better off getting a
rail and stile set with a matching profile (its a plain cove) and go
that way?
Mike in Arkansas who is recovered from the kickback incident except for
a mighty itch near the ribs.

Kitchen cabinet doors. Any reason not to do this?
 

Mike in Arkansas wrote:
All but of couple of my upper doors are true divided lite. To make
these I purchased the freud 99-270 router bit set. For the lower doors
and drawer faces and two upper doors I was planing on flat panel
construction with the panel fitting into a grove in the rail and
stiles. The divided lite set won't make this type. It doesn't cut a
groove but a rabbit. Is it inappropriate to mount panels in a rabbit
and apply some kind of backing around the edge to hold it in just like
they were glass panels. I can't imagine why this won't work. But,
want to be sure before I mess up some expensive wood. Also, I want
things to look good and be "right". Would I be better off getting a
rail and stile set with a matching profile (its a plain cove) and go
that way?
Mike in Arkansas who is recovered from the kickback incident except for
a mighty itch near the ribs.

Is it possible to return the router bit set and get the right one? We
normally use a panel bit set to make frames for glass doors. Then use
a rabbit bit to remove the 1/4 back rail. This does require cutting
the corners with a chisel

In answer to your question, yes you could do it as you described. If
you have ever tried working with 1/4" quarter round, you will find it
challenging.

-Lee

Kitchen cabinet doors. Any reason not to do this?
 

wrote:
In answer to your question, yes you could do it as you described. If
you have ever tried working with 1/4" quarter round, you will find it
challenging.

-Lee
Thanks for the input Lee. I didn't actually get the 'wrong' bits for
what I wanted. They did a fine job for what they were designed to do.
With so much time and money going into this everlasting gobstopper of a
project I don't want to do anything that would distract from the
quality just because I'm impatient and too cheap to buy tools
unnecessarily. Thanks again
Mike

Kitchen cabinet doors. Any reason not to do this?
 

On 3 Nov 2006 20:55:16 -0800, "Mike in Arkansas"
wrote:

All but of couple of my upper doors are true divided lite. To make
these I purchased the freud 99-270 router bit set. For the lower doors
and drawer faces and two upper doors I was planing on flat panel
construction with the panel fitting into a grove in the rail and
stiles. The divided lite set won't make this type. It doesn't cut a
groove but a rabbit. Is it inappropriate to mount panels in a rabbit
and apply some kind of backing around the edge to hold it in just like
they were glass panels. I can't imagine why this won't work. But,
want to be sure before I mess up some expensive wood. Also, I want
things to look good and be "right". Would I be better off getting a
rail and stile set with a matching profile (its a plain cove) and go
that way?

Well, Mike- I'm assuming you have a table saw from your mention of the
kickback incident below (glad to hear you're recovering.) So why not
rout the cove with a regular cove bit, then cut the dadoes with your
table saw? Even if you don't have a dado stack, you can do it with a
single blade and multiple passes- that's the way I've done it a lot of
times, and it works fine.

There's nothing really "inappropriate" about mounting the panels in a
rabbet, but it will not look as good as setting them in dadoes. If
you really just prefer to use the router method, or don't have a cove
bit, you could make the rails and stiles a little thinner (if that
will work with your bit set), rout the rabbet, set the panel in place,
and then glue a second thin set of rails and stiles to the back to
effectively make a dado without cutting one.

Mike in Arkansas who is recovered from the kickback incident except for
a mighty itch near the ribs.

Kitchen cabinet doors. Any reason not to do this?
 

Prometheus wrote:
set the panel in place,
and then glue a second thin set of rails and stiles to the back to
effectively make a dado without cutting one.
Two interesting solutions Prometheus. Thanks for your input. I do
have a table saw so cutting the dado isn't a problem. Your suggestion
just made me realize that my rail and stile bit set comes apart so I
can simply replace the rabbeting cutter with spacers and have a
perfectly matched cove. Doh! Honestly, sometimes I can be such a
dolt. Thanks for fire by the way.
Mike in Arkansas