Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
![]() |
|
Woodworking (rec.woodworking) Discussion forum covering all aspects of working with wood. All levels of expertise are encouraged to particiapte. |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#10
![]()
Posted to rec.woodworking
|
|||
|
|||
![]() blueman wrote: I need to cut a fair bit of birch plywood and oak-veneer plywood for some cabinet and bookcase projects. Any recommendations for blades in the $30-50 range? Technique will matter more than blades (which are all of pretty good quality, if you keep 'em clean and don't saw nails and gravel). I've had good results with throwaway B&D Piranha blades, old Craftsman, and new Freud. Some folk swear by Forrest. To get low tearout, one can set the blade low and do the first pass backward (this is to cut the bottom veneer, and a little of the veneer above it, with the blade heading into the work). It's a dado cut, so no splitter or riving knife allowed. The second pass (forward cutting) then cuts the top veneer and parts the wood. Infeed and outfeed tables (or a good helper) are important in keeping the wood movement linear. And the old recommendation is to use a steel blade, not carbide; the best sharp edge steel will hold is more effective at slicing wood fiber than the carbide technology allows. That only matters when the steel blade is high quality, hollow-ground, recently sharpened. And, I don't know where to find such nowadays. |