I've been using a Jet 16" Bandsaw for about 5 years. I've always
had to take it slow with this saw while resawing. It would pop
circuits and bog down. I rewired it for 220 and that made a big
difference, but I still had to take it slow.

My current project requires me to build some bifold doors. The rails
and styls are 2x6 Douglas fur. I need to bring the board thickness
down to 1 1/16" and rather than run them through my plainer a bunch
of times I am resawing them.

About halfway through the stack things went wrong. I hit a piece of
wood that was not completely dry. My blade was starting to get dull by
this time as well. Rather than stopping and sharpening the blade and
going to a dry piece of lumber, I forced it and ended up burning out
the capacitors on my motor. (No need to kick a man when he's down
here fellas, I know what I did wrong.)

I've replaced the capacitors and the saw still has no power. I've
come to the conclusion that some of the windings in the motor have
broken from being overheated and the motor is toast.

I've researched the various motors from Jet. There are three that
will fit the saw without having to fabricate a mounting.

· The original 1.5 hp replacement at $230
· The standard 1.75 hp off Jet's 18" model at $451
· Or my favorite the 3hp option for their 18" Bandsaw at $533

I'm concerned about going back to a 1.5 hp because it always seemed
under powered before. If I were to spend the money for a larger motor,
I feel that I might as well go for the big Kahuna. This brings me to
my questions.

1. Is there such a thing as too much power?
2. Could I cause more problems than I solve?
3. Is the 1.5 horse really enough power and I just suck at setup and
that's why I had the problems to beguine with?

I appreciate any and all responses.

~Craig

Do they show a 3-phase motor option for 3-5hp? If so, it should be less
expensive and have more power. Get a single phase input VFD and have
variable speed as well. Various other options come to mind but would not be
a factory configured option.
Respectfully,
Ron Moore

"RCStrunk" wrote in message
oups.com...
I've been using a Jet 16" Bandsaw for about 5 years. I've always
had to take it slow with this saw while resawing. It would pop
circuits and bog down. I rewired it for 220 and that made a big
difference, but I still had to take it slow.

My current project requires me to build some bifold doors. The rails
and styls are 2x6 Douglas fur. I need to bring the board thickness
down to 1 1/16" and rather than run them through my plainer a bunch
of times I am resawing them.

About halfway through the stack things went wrong. I hit a piece of
wood that was not completely dry. My blade was starting to get dull by
this time as well. Rather than stopping and sharpening the blade and
going to a dry piece of lumber, I forced it and ended up burning out
the capacitors on my motor. (No need to kick a man when he's down
here fellas, I know what I did wrong.)

I've replaced the capacitors and the saw still has no power. I've
come to the conclusion that some of the windings in the motor have
broken from being overheated and the motor is toast.

I've researched the various motors from Jet. There are three that
will fit the saw without having to fabricate a mounting.

· The original 1.5 hp replacement at $230
· The standard 1.75 hp off Jet's 18" model at $451
· Or my favorite the 3hp option for their 18" Bandsaw at $533

I'm concerned about going back to a 1.5 hp because it always seemed
under powered before. If I were to spend the money for a larger motor,
I feel that I might as well go for the big Kahuna. This brings me to
my questions.

1. Is there such a thing as too much power?
2. Could I cause more problems than I solve?
3. Is the 1.5 horse really enough power and I just suck at setup and
that's why I had the problems to beguine with?

I appreciate any and all responses.

~Craig

1. Yes.
2. Yes. If the blade bogs down and the motor forces things then
you may end up breaking or bending the wheels, pulleys, or frame.
3. 1.5HP should be enough. Are you using the right blade? A blade
with too many teeth will load up with sawdust and bind in the kerf.
For resawing I use a sharp 3TPI blade and have no trouble resawing
6" hard maple with only 1HP.

Art


"RCStrunk" wrote in message
oups.com...
[snip]
1. Is there such a thing as too much power?
2. Could I cause more problems than I solve?
3. Is the 1.5 horse really enough power and I just suck at setup and
that's why I had the problems to beguine with?

I appreciate any and all responses.

~Craig

"RCStrunk" wrote in message
oups.com...
I've been using a Jet 16" Bandsaw for about 5 years. I've always
had to take it slow with this saw while resawing. It would pop
circuits and bog down. I rewired it for 220 and that made a big
difference, but I still had to take it slow.

My current project requires me to build some bifold doors. The rails
and styls are 2x6 Douglas fur. I need to bring the board thickness
down to 1 1/16" and rather than run them through my plainer a bunch
of times I am resawing them.

About halfway through the stack things went wrong. I hit a piece of
wood that was not completely dry. My blade was starting to get dull by
this time as well. Rather than stopping and sharpening the blade and
going to a dry piece of lumber, I forced it and ended up burning out
the capacitors on my motor. (No need to kick a man when he's down
here fellas, I know what I did wrong.)

I've replaced the capacitors and the saw still has no power. I've
come to the conclusion that some of the windings in the motor have
broken from being overheated and the motor is toast.

I've researched the various motors from Jet. There are three that
will fit the saw without having to fabricate a mounting.

· The original 1.5 hp replacement at $230
· The standard 1.75 hp off Jet's 18" model at $451
· Or my favorite the 3hp option for their 18" Bandsaw at $533

I'm concerned about going back to a 1.5 hp because it always seemed
under powered before. If I were to spend the money for a larger motor,
I feel that I might as well go for the big Kahuna. This brings me to
my questions.

1. Is there such a thing as too much power?
2. Could I cause more problems than I solve?
3. Is the 1.5 horse really enough power and I just suck at setup and
that's why I had the problems to beguine with?

I appreciate any and all responses.

~Craig

I have the same saw. It too is wired for 220 and so-far I'm able to re-saw
any wood I stuff in it.
I do use a 3tpi 3/4" Lenox blade.
Is only bogs down when the blade gets dull.

Replace the motor, get a good blade.

Dave

Thank you everyone for all your responses. I've been using 3 TPI
¾" blades I've purchased from various internet venders. I'll
take your advice and replace the motor with the original 1.5hp and get
a Lenox blade.

Happy crafting...


Teamcasa wrote:


I have the same saw. It too is wired for 220 and so-far I'm able to re-saw
any wood I stuff in it.
I do use a 3tpi 3/4" Lenox blade.
Is only bogs down when the blade gets dull.

Replace the motor, get a good blade.

Dave

On 29 Oct 2006 15:38:01 -0800, "RCStrunk"
wrote:
....
1. Is there such a thing as too much power?
2. Could I cause more problems than I solve?
3. Is the 1.5 horse really enough power and I just suck at setup and
that's why I had the problems to beguine with?
....
1. Yes, of course. But is upgrading to a 3HP motor too much power for
the saw?

Let's look at some back of the envelope calculations here.

You've got a 16" bandsaw. That means the vertical force pulling the
blade through the workpiece is the torque applied by the motor to the
lower wheel divided by the radius of the wheel. _All_ of that force is
resisted by the table and its supporting structure. None of it is seen
by the upper wheel or the structure supporting the upper wheel.

So, for a worst case analysis, assume 100% efficiency in transmitting
motor torque to a vertical load on the saw's table.

F = 12*T/R

Whe
F = vertical load on the saw table (Pounds)
T = Torque developed by the motor (Foot-Pounds)
R = Radius of the saw's driven (lower) wheel (inches)
12 = Conversion factor from inches to feet

Since the radius of the driven wheel is constant, the maximum load on
the saw's table will occur when the motor develops it's maximum
torque. This will be the "Locked Rotor Torque" of the motor and will
occur if/when blade binds in the workpiece and stalls the motor.

So what is the locked rotor torque of the motors you are considering.
Since I don't know the specific motor, I looked at a typical 3HP 1725
RPM, 230v motor. (Baldor Model L3705) (Ref: http://www.baldor.com )
which has a locked rotor torque of 45 Foot-Pounds.

Plugging in those numbers:

F = 12*45/8 = 67.5 Pounds.

I have a Jet 16" bandsaw. I don't believe 70 pounds applied vertically
to the table would have any detrimental effects on the structure of
that saw. Nor do I believe 45 Foot-Pounds torque applied to the lower
wheel would have any adverse effects. The 70 pound load would be
reacted by the lower wheel mount and bearings. That would be my only
point of concern, but without any specific information about those
bearings, I would guess that additional load is within their
capability. Note that the additional load of the 3HP is only 45 pounds
more than that developed by a 1.5HP motor under the same circumstances
(Ref: Baldor Model L3514M)

Only you can determine whether the $500+ cost of the 3HP motor is cost
effective for you. But if you are worried about overloading the saw's
components, I can only say that, except for the cost, I wouldn't
hesitate to install a 3HP motor on my 16" bandsaw.

Tom wrote:
Only you can determine whether the $500+ cost of the 3HP motor is cost
effective for you. But if you are worried about overloading the saw's
components, I can only say that, except for the cost, I wouldn't
hesitate to install a 3HP motor on my 16" bandsaw.


Yes Tom, the $500 question is the one posed by my loving wife as well.
Is it worth it? I think I'm going to stick with my last post and get
the 1.5hp. If I lose another motor after changing blade manufacturers,
then I'll move to the 3hp motor.

Thanks for your response...

"RCStrunk" wrote in news:1162178800.606469.76930
@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:


Tom wrote:
Only you can determine whether the $500+ cost of the 3HP motor is cost
effective for you. But if you are worried about overloading the saw's
components, I can only say that, except for the cost, I wouldn't
hesitate to install a 3HP motor on my 16" bandsaw.


Yes Tom, the $500 question is the one posed by my loving wife as well.
Is it worth it? I think I'm going to stick with my last post and get
the 1.5hp. If I lose another motor after changing blade manufacturers,
then I'll move to the 3hp motor.

Thanks for your response...



If you lose another motor on that saw, I wouldn't buy another motor, but
rather another saw. Preferably from Laguna or MiniMax.

But that's a pretty strong saw you have there now.

Patriarch

In article , Tom Veatch wrote:
On 29 Oct 2006 15:38:01 -0800, "RCStrunk"
wrote:
...
1. Is there such a thing as too much power?
2. Could I cause more problems than I solve?
3. Is the 1.5 horse really enough power and I just suck at setup and
that's why I had the problems to beguine with?
...
1. Yes, of course. But is upgrading to a 3HP motor too much power for
the saw?

Let's look at some back of the envelope calculations here.

You've got a 16" bandsaw. That means the vertical force pulling the
blade through the workpiece is the torque applied by the motor to the
lower wheel divided by the radius of the wheel. _All_ of that force is
resisted by the table and its supporting structure. None of it is seen
by the upper wheel or the structure supporting the upper wheel.

So, for a worst case analysis, assume 100% efficiency in transmitting
motor torque to a vertical load on the saw's table.

F = 12*T/R

Whe
F = vertical load on the saw table (Pounds)
T = Torque developed by the motor (Foot-Pounds)
R = Radius of the saw's driven (lower) wheel (inches)
12 = Conversion factor from inches to feet

Since the radius of the driven wheel is constant, the maximum load on
the saw's table will occur when the motor develops it's maximum
torque. This will be the "Locked Rotor Torque" of the motor and will
occur if/when blade binds in the workpiece and stalls the motor.

So what is the locked rotor torque of the motors you are considering.
Since I don't know the specific motor, I looked at a typical 3HP 1725
RPM, 230v motor. (Baldor Model L3705) (Ref: http://www.baldor.com )
which has a locked rotor torque of 45 Foot-Pounds.

Plugging in those numbers:

F = 12*45/8 = 67.5 Pounds.

I have a Jet 16" bandsaw. I don't believe 70 pounds applied vertically
to the table would have any detrimental effects on the structure of
that saw. Nor do I believe 45 Foot-Pounds torque applied to the lower
wheel would have any adverse effects. The 70 pound load would be
reacted by the lower wheel mount and bearings. That would be my only
point of concern, but without any specific information about those
bearings, I would guess that additional load is within their
capability. Note that the additional load of the 3HP is only 45 pounds
more than that developed by a 1.5HP motor under the same circumstances
(Ref: Baldor Model L3514M)

Only you can determine whether the $500+ cost of the 3HP motor is cost
effective for you. But if you are worried about overloading the saw's
components, I can only say that, except for the cost, I wouldn't
hesitate to install a 3HP motor on my 16" bandsaw.

There are a few problems with this analysis:

1. An induction motor does not necessarily develop it's
maximum torque at locked rotor, it is not at all uncommon for the
maximum torque to be developed near the rated speed of the motor.

2. The torque applied to the lower wheel, and subsequently to the
table & supports as you posit, will be multiplied in inverse
proportion to the degree that the gearing, pulleys, etc. reduce the
speed of the lower wheel.

3. Intuition he Assume that 70 lbs downward force exerted through
the blade is correct. I can easily grab hold of a seventy pound weight
and lift it with one hand (OK, maybe not as easily as I could have 30
years ago.) I really doubt that I could grab hold of a 16" bandsaw
blade, turn the saw on, and keep the blade from moving!


Not to say that the saw in question would not benefit from the 3 HP
motor or necessarily be damaged by it; I would suggest looking at
similar saws and seeing what size motors they use, or (dare I suggest
it) calleing JET and asking them.


--
For every complicated, difficult problem, there is a simple, easy
solution that does not work.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland -

On Mon, 30 Oct 2006 02:02:21 -0600, ()
wrote:

There are a few problems with this analysis:

You are absolutely right! See following.

1. An induction motor does not necessarily develop it's
maximum torque at locked rotor, it is not at all uncommon for the
maximum torque to be developed near the rated speed of the motor.

Yes, different classes of motors can have very different torque vs RPM
curves. But, let's see what torque is being produced by any 3HP motor
turning at 1725 RPM.

Power(P) = Torque(T) * Rotational Velocity(V)
Or
T(ftlb) = P(ftlb/sec) / V(radians/sec)
But
V(radians/sec) = V(RPM) * 2pi (radians/rev) / 60 (sec/min)
where RPM is revolutions per minute
Or
V(radians/sec) = 0.1047*V(RPM)
And
Power(P) = P(HP) * (550 ftlb/sec)

So
T(ftlb) = 550 * P(HP) / 0.1047 * V(RPM)
Or
T = 5253 * P/V

Where
T = torque developed by the motor expressed in foot pounds
P = power developed by the motor expressed in Horsepower
V = speed of the motor expressed in revolutions per minute

For the motor referenced:
P = 3 HP
V = 1725 RPM
Or
T = 5253 * 3 / 1725 = 9.136

Draw your own conclusions.


2. The torque applied to the lower wheel, and subsequently to the
table & supports as you posit, will be multiplied in inverse
proportion to the degree that the gearing, pulleys, etc. reduce the
speed of the lower wheel.

You are correct, and is the place my original calculations ran afoul
of an implicit and invalid, non-conservative assumption.

I implicitly assumed a direct drive/1:1 ratio between the motor and
the saw's lower wheel. The force at the table should have been
calculated based on the "power" available at the blade. Doing so,
points the actual force at the table is approximately 2.3 times the
original estimate.

Corrected calculations follow:

Assuming a 100% efficient transmission, the power available at the
blade will be equal to the power developed by the motor.

Power(ftlb/sec) = Force(lb) * Blade Speed (ft/min) / 60 (sec/min)
Or
Force(lb) = 60(sec/min) * 550(ftlb/secHP) * Power(HP) / V(ft/min)
Or
F = 33000 * P/V

Whe

F = the downward force on the blade in pounds
P = Motor power in Horsepower
V = Blade speed in Feet/Minute.

For the Jet 16" bandsaw, the blade speed is advertised at 3000 fpm.
Therefore, the downward force on the blade is given by

F = 33000 * P/3000 = 11 * P

If we assume no change in overall gearing and the 3HP motor turns the
same speed as the stock 1.5 HP motor, the blade speed will remain the
same. Therefore, the downward force on the blade, workpiece, and table
when the motor is developing its rated horsepower at its rated speed
is:

F = 11 * 3 = 33 pounds.

Now the torque developed by the motor under those conditions is, from
above, 9.136 foot pounds. This gives an overall "gearing ratio" of

R = 33 (lb) / 9.136 (ft lb) = 3.612 (per foot)

Which is to say that each ft lb of torque at the motor develops 3.612
pounds of force at the blade. Or:

F = 3.612 * T

Now if we look at the locked rotor torque of the 3 HP motor I
referenced (and other 3 HP motors could have greater or lesser torque
with a locked rotor) we see:

F = 3.612 * 45 = 162.54 pounds.

My original back of the envelope calculations were very much in error
and I apologize to all who have read it. Thank you again for pointing
it out.

I would have to take a much closer look at the table supports,
bearings and support for the lower wheel, and the torque
characteristics of the specific motor to be used before I could
comfortably recommend using a 3 HP motor on the saw.


3. Intuition he Assume that 70 lbs downward force exerted through
the blade is correct. I can easily grab hold of a seventy pound weight
and lift it with one hand (OK, maybe not as easily as I could have 30
years ago.) I really doubt that I could grab hold of a 16" bandsaw
blade, turn the saw on, and keep the blade from moving!

As you say, that lift would have been much easier 30-40 years ago, but
I also could do it - if I can get a good grip on it. However, attach
that 70 pounds to the end of a 1/2 to 3/4 by .035 strip of steel. Can
you pinch that strip between your thumb and finger like you would a
bandsaw blade and lift the 70 lbs? If you can, you probably one of
those people who crack pecans using just your thumb and forefinger. I
know I can't - except maybe the "papershell" variety.

Anyway, the point is moot since the 70 lb figure was badly
miscalculated and is closer to 170 than it is to 70.


Not to say that the saw in question would not benefit from the 3 HP
motor or necessarily be damaged by it; I would suggest looking at
similar saws and seeing what size motors they use, or (dare I suggest
it) calleing JET and asking them.

Excellent, excellent advice!

Tom wrote:

Power(P) = Torque(T) * Rotational Velocity(V)
Or
T(ftlb) = P(ftlb/sec) / V(radians/sec)
But
V(radians/sec) = V(RPM) * 2pi (radians/rev) / 60 (sec/min)
where RPM is revolutions per minute
Or
V(radians/sec) = 0.1047*V(RPM)
And
Power(P) = P(HP) * (550 ftlb/sec)

So
T(ftlb) = 550 * P(HP) / 0.1047 * V(RPM)
Or
T = 5253 * P/V

Where
T = torque developed by the motor expressed in foot pounds
P = power developed by the motor expressed in Horsepower
V = speed of the motor expressed in revolutions per minute

For the motor referenced:
P = 3 HP
V = 1725 RPM
Or
T = 5253 * 3 / 1725 = 9.136

Draw your own conclusions.


Wow, I had no idea this post would get so many responses. Thanks for
the lesson in calculating torque. Get calls from NASA much?

~Craig

On 30 Oct 2006 13:00:56 -0800, "RCStrunk"
wrote:

Get calls from NASA much?

Did some work for them at MSFC Huntsville back in the early '70s on
the Space Shuttle Main Engine (SSME) Controller and Saturn V Launch
Profile. Got tired and disgusted with the bureaucracy and left to do
non-government stuff..

In article , Tom Veatch wrote:
...snipped...

3. Intuition he Assume that 70 lbs downward force exerted through
the blade is correct. I can easily grab hold of a seventy pound weight
and lift it with one hand (OK, maybe not as easily as I could have 30
years ago.) I really doubt that I could grab hold of a 16" bandsaw
blade, turn the saw on, and keep the blade from moving!

As you say, that lift would have been much easier 30-40 years ago, but
I also could do it - if I can get a good grip on it. However, attach
that 70 pounds to the end of a 1/2 to 3/4 by .035 strip of steel. Can
you pinch that strip between your thumb and finger like you would a
bandsaw blade and lift the 70 lbs? If you can, you probably one of
those people who crack pecans using just your thumb and forefinger. I
know I can't - except maybe the "papershell" variety.


Well, of course I would use a vise grips pliers if I was inclined to
actually attempt this. But since you mention it, 30 years ago, I could
crack a pecan by hand.

--
For every complicated, difficult problem, there is a simple, easy
solution that does not work.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland -

wrote:

Not to say that the saw in question would not benefit from the 3 HP
motor or necessarily be damaged by it; I would suggest looking at
similar saws and seeing what size motors they use, or (dare I suggest
it) calleing JET and asking them.


--
For every complicated, difficult problem, there is a simple, easy
solution that does not work.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland -

Thanks Larry,

I called Jet and they could not give me any information as to weather
the 3hp would work or not. Nobody has tried it apparently. The 3hp
will mount to the saw because the mounting brackets on both the 16"
and the 3hp 18" saws are the same. Only the pulley that attaches to
the motor needs to be replaced, because of different shaft sizes.
Other than that the mounting is the same.

As to the motor sizes of other saws, I had found that most saws this
size have a 1.5 hp motor. I found a 14" (can't remember the
manufacture) that had a 2hp motor. Jet's standard 18" model comes
with 1.75hp with the option of a 3hp.

I appreciate your response...

~Craig

On 29 Oct 2006 15:38:01 -0800, "RCStrunk"
wrote:

I've researched the various motors from Jet. There are three that
will fit the saw without having to fabricate a mounting.

· The original 1.5 hp replacement at $230
· The standard 1.75 hp off Jet's 18" model at $451
· Or my favorite the 3hp option for their 18" Bandsaw at $533

Ack! Is it not a standard NEMA mount? Grizzly's motors are about
half those figures. I'm sure they're spiffy motors and all, but
you've already fried one of them already...


-Leuf

On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 23:40:02 -0500, Leuf
wrote:

On 29 Oct 2006 15:38:01 -0800, "RCStrunk"
wrote:

Ack! Is it not a standard NEMA mount?
....

I certainly stand to be corrected, but I don't believe they are.

At one time I was considering installing a larger motor on my 16" Jet
and took some measurements off the mount (face mounted). Since I
didn't remove the motor or the lower wheel, my measurements were far
from being precise.

Couldn't find any NEMA configuration that looked close enough. There
was an IEC (Metric) configuration that was closer but due to the
(im)precision of my measurements, I can't say with any certainty that
the motor was/is an IEC mount. (couldn't find anything on the motor
nameplate that said one way or the other.)

Leuf wrote:
On 29 Oct 2006 15:38:01 -0800, "RCStrunk"
wrote:

I've researched the various motors from Jet. There are three that
will fit the saw without having to fabricate a mounting.

· The original 1.5 hp replacement at $230
· The standard 1.75 hp off Jet's 18" model at $451
· Or my favorite the 3hp option for their 18" Bandsaw at $533

Ack! Is it not a standard NEMA mount? Grizzly's motors are about
half those figures. I'm sure they're spiffy motors and all, but
you've already fried one of them already...


-Leuf

You're correct Leuf,

Jet uses a proprietary mounting not a standard NEMA face. When I
burned out the motor the first place I looked was Granger. I thought I
could fab a new mount but decided I didn't want the extra challenge.

To make matters worse the bolt holes are in a diamond pattern not
square. I don't know why Jet made the decision not to use a standard
mount. I guess they want my return business...

~Craig

I have the older 18" model and thought it was underpowered with 1 1/2 hp at
first. However, after reading Duginske's "Bandsaw Handbook" and giving the
(still fairly new then) saw a good tune up and selecting the right blades,
it can resaw just about anything I throw at it. 2x6 fir would be no trouble
whatsoever. 10" Oak goes pretty easily. 10" Jatoba slows her down a good
bit. 1 1/2hp is adequate for 90% of the things I do with it, the1.75hp
would probably make it real close to 100% . However, for the price, it'd
seem that the 3 hp is not a far cry from the 1.75, and both are
substantially more than the 1.5. I really don't forsee any problems going
with the 3hp. Let us know what you decide and how it works! --dave



"RCStrunk" wrote in message
oups.com...
I've been using a Jet 16" Bandsaw for about 5 years. I've always
had to take it slow with this saw while resawing. It would pop
circuits and bog down. I rewired it for 220 and that made a big
difference, but I still had to take it slow.

My current project requires me to build some bifold doors. The rails
and styls are 2x6 Douglas fur. I need to bring the board thickness
down to 1 1/16" and rather than run them through my plainer a bunch
of times I am resawing them.

About halfway through the stack things went wrong. I hit a piece of
wood that was not completely dry. My blade was starting to get dull by
this time as well. Rather than stopping and sharpening the blade and
going to a dry piece of lumber, I forced it and ended up burning out
the capacitors on my motor. (No need to kick a man when he's down
here fellas, I know what I did wrong.)

I've replaced the capacitors and the saw still has no power. I've
come to the conclusion that some of the windings in the motor have
broken from being overheated and the motor is toast.

I've researched the various motors from Jet. There are three that
will fit the saw without having to fabricate a mounting.

· The original 1.5 hp replacement at $230
· The standard 1.75 hp off Jet's 18" model at $451
· Or my favorite the 3hp option for their 18" Bandsaw at $533

I'm concerned about going back to a 1.5 hp because it always seemed
under powered before. If I were to spend the money for a larger motor,
I feel that I might as well go for the big Kahuna. This brings me to
my questions.

1. Is there such a thing as too much power?
2. Could I cause more problems than I solve?
3. Is the 1.5 horse really enough power and I just suck at setup and
that's why I had the problems to beguine with?

I appreciate any and all responses.

~Craig

my 18" bandsaw has a 2hp motor and it seems to have adequate power for
my uses. I don't resaw a lot though, so YMMV.

the pulleys and belts on your saw were engineered for 1.5hp. if you
exceed that by too much what is likely to happen is that the belt will
slip when you load it up- the motor won't bog down, but the power won't
be transmitted to the blade and you'll be cooking belts if you do it a
lot. in other words, the extra power will be wasted. you _could_
upgrade to a triple groove sheave and be able to use a 3hp motor on it,
but make sure the bearings are rated for it and that the frame is stiff
enough to be able to tension that properly.