I had read about the benefits of using Corrosion-X (vs paste wax), a
marine-use anti-corrosive, but couldn't find it at the marinas and sporting
goods stores that I tried (Bass Pro, Gander Mtn, local guys). What I did
find was Quicksilver Corrosion Guard from Mercury Marine. So, I put a nice
new fininsh on the TS, BS and jointer and sprayed it on. Well, a week later
it's still tacky. Not exactly conducive to optimal machine use. I called
Merc and they said that that was it's normal state. So, the big question;
Instead of wiping this all off with some solvent (they 'didn't know ' which
one but I could 'try' laquer thinner) is it possible to spray it with a
dryer to get it to set up? I actually don't think this will work but, hey,
you don't know if you don't ask. I'm thinking that I'm in for a long,
stinky weekend and back to the Johnson's Paste Wax (which is still allowing
a slow rusting process to take place - very subtly).
TIA,
C

C & E wrote:
I had read about the benefits of using Corrosion-X (vs paste wax), a
marine-use anti-corrosive, but couldn't find it at the marinas and sporting
goods stores that I tried (Bass Pro, Gander Mtn, local guys). What I did
find was Quicksilver Corrosion Guard from Mercury Marine. So, I put a nice
new fininsh on the TS, BS and jointer and sprayed it on. Well, a week later
it's still tacky. Not exactly conducive to optimal machine use. I called
Merc and they said that that was it's normal state. So, the big question;
Instead of wiping this all off with some solvent (they 'didn't know ' which
one but I could 'try' laquer thinner) is it possible to spray it with a
dryer to get it to set up? I actually don't think this will work but, hey,
you don't know if you don't ask. I'm thinking that I'm in for a long,
stinky weekend and back to the Johnson's Paste Wax (which is still allowing
a slow rusting process to take place - very subtly).
TIA,
C

I read a little about it and from the applications that I saw, I don't
think you'll be able to get it to set up... Just my humble two pennies
worth.

WD40 will probably take it off pretty easily... You'll definitely want
to make sure that nothing in the Quicksilver doesn't make any
unpleasant (i.e. explosive or poisonous fumes) side products.

Good luck...

The best rust preventitive ---- Use it more often!!!

C & E wrote:
I'm thinking that I'm in for a long,
stinky weekend and back to the Johnson's Paste Wax (which is still allowing
a slow rusting process to take place - very subtly).

I've never used it personally, but I've heard good things about
Boeshield. It did pretty good in a comparison test in Wood Magazine.

http://www.boeshield.com/index.htm


Chris

Chris Friesen wrote:
C & E wrote:

I'm thinking that I'm in for a long, stinky weekend and back to the
Johnson's Paste Wax (which is still allowing a slow rusting process to
take place - very subtly).


I've never used it personally, but I've heard good things about
Boeshield. It did pretty good in a comparison test in Wood Magazine.

http://www.boeshield.com/index.htm


Chris
Boeshield works very well.

Jess.S

"Chris Friesen" wrote
C & E wrote:
I'm thinking that I'm in for a long, stinky weekend and back to the
Johnson's Paste Wax (which is still allowing a slow rusting process to
take place - very subtly).

I've never used it personally, but I've heard good things about Boeshield.
It did pretty good in a comparison test in Wood Magazine.

http://www.boeshield.com/index.htm


I had no idea that this product was originally developed by Boeing aircraft
company. That is where the boe comes from in the name. And they license it
for sale to everybody else.

I guess if it is good enough to make airplanes with, it ought to hold up
well in our basement shops.

Jesse R Strawbridge wrote:

Boeshield works very well.


I agree, and I've also been served well by Bostich Top Cote. I usually
buy whatever is easier for me to get at the time I run out. G

Boeshield works very well.


I agree, and I've also been served well by Bostich Top Cote. I usually
buy whatever is easier for me to get at the time I run out. G

I've really liked Top Cote. Not only does it keep rust from forming,
but it makes wood slide over the machine surface like it's on ice -
very nice for jointer tables.

As for removing the other product and helping remove rust stains, I've
had good luck with Boeshields Rust Off.

Mike

TopCote is what you need....

http://www.bostik-us.com/products/in...&categoryId=27

I would remove that Corrosion Guard with kerosene.


C & E wrote:

I had read about the benefits of using Corrosion-X (vs paste wax), a
marine-use anti-corrosive, but couldn't find it at the marinas and sporting
goods stores that I tried (Bass Pro, Gander Mtn, local guys). What I did
find was Quicksilver Corrosion Guard from Mercury Marine.

Thanks to all. I haven't used Boeshield because it's not available locally.
I'll leave this on until I can get it, though.
Thanks,
C

If you knew what goes into an airplane and the way they are made, you might
quit flying.

"Lee Michaels" wrote in message
. ..
I guess if it is good enough to make airplanes with, it ought to hold up
well in our basement shops.

"CW" wrote in message
link.net...
If you knew what goes into an airplane and the way they are made, you
might
quit flying.


Please enlighten us...

They are made of spruce and canvas. Both can rot.

On Wed, 11 Oct 2006 21:53:55 -0400, "Kyle Boatright"
wrote:


"CW" wrote in message
hlink.net...
If you knew what goes into an airplane and the way they are made, you
might
quit flying.


Please enlighten us...

"C & E" wrote in message
...
I had read about the benefits of using Corrosion-X (vs paste wax), a
marine-use anti-corrosive, but couldn't find it at the marinas and sporting
goods stores that I tried (Bass Pro, Gander Mtn, local guys). What I did
find was Quicksilver Corrosion Guard from Mercury Marine. So, I put a nice
new fininsh on the TS, BS and jointer and sprayed it on. Well, a week
later it's still tacky. Not exactly conducive to optimal machine use. I
called Merc and they said that that was it's normal state. So, the big
question;
Instead of wiping this all off with some solvent (they 'didn't know '
which one but I could 'try' laquer thinner) is it possible to spray it
with a dryer to get it to set up? I actually don't think this will work
but, hey, you don't know if you don't ask. I'm thinking that I'm in for a
long, stinky weekend and back to the Johnson's Paste Wax (which is still
allowing a slow rusting process to take place - very subtly).
TIA,
C

We use canning wax, just rub the block on the the iron.

Mike wrote:
Boeshield works very well.

I agree, and I've also been served well by Bostich Top Cote. I usually
buy whatever is easier for me to get at the time I run out. G

I've really liked Top Cote. Not only does it keep rust from forming,
but it makes wood slide over the machine surface like it's on ice -
very nice for jointer tables.

And it smells nice, too!

Pat Barber wrote:

kerosene.

An underrated and inexpensive shop cleaning material and lubricant.

CW wrote:
If you knew what goes into an airplane and the way they are made, you might
quit flying.

As a guy who participates in his own annual inspection on his "spam
can", and lives in the land of Pratt & Whitney, I agree. G

On the other hand, it can be looked at from the point of view that
aircraft are much lower precision than the average bear might think. A
few parts have very close tolerances, but the rest is just typical
machinery.

"Aircraft Quality" is a fanfreakintastic marketing term, though!

C & E wrote:

I'm*thinking*that*I'm*in*for*a*long,
stinky weekend and back to the Johnson's Paste Wax (which is still allowing
a slow rusting process to take place - very subtly).

We have cold wet winters and hot dry summers. So my cast iron stuff is in a
shop that's unheated much of the time. Perfect conditions for condensation.

When I set up this shop about 15 years ago, I used paste wax about once every
month or two. Then every quarter, and finally once a year. So far no rust.
I think there is a cumulative effect.

--
It's turtles, all the way down

On Oct 12, 7:40 am, B A R R Y wrote:
Mike wrote:
Boeshield works very well.

I agree, and I've also been served well by Bostich Top Cote. I usually
buy whatever is easier for me to get at the time I run out. G

I've really liked Top Cote. Not only does it keep rust from forming,
but it makes wood slide over the machine surface like it's on ice -
very nice for jointer tables.And it smells nice, too!

Are you talking about TopCote or Boeshield?

AFAIC, Boeshield smells like dead...something....muskrats maybe?

TopCote DOES smell pretty good.

Gus wrote:


Are you talking about TopCote or Boeshield?

AFAIC, Boeshield smells like dead...something....muskrats maybe?

TopCote DOES smell pretty good.


TopCote! G

On Thu, 12 Oct 2006 02:23:21 GMT, Jim Behning
wrote:

They are made of spruce and canvas. Both can rot.

[...snip...]

Well, I am a pilot that flys small planes, admittedly not all that
much, but that is one type construction I haven't seen around the
airports much.

On the other hand, the planes I fly, say a single engine Cessna or a
Piper or a Grumman, are made to be lightweight and a lot of that metal
will flex: you are supposed to step "here", but not on "this" or
"that". And don't grab "here" to pull your seat forward, but only
"there".

Jim Behning (in ) said:

| They are made of spruce and canvas. Both can rot.

Some are wood, although aluminum and chrome-moly steel are probably
more common these days - and a high-grade Dacron (either bonded to
Mylar or treated with a gel coating for slickness and waterproofing)
seem to be the skins of choice. UV is a greater threat to the skin
than water.

On the other hand, stainless pop rivets are a popular fastener and
I've never quite become comfortable with that.

The wood construction planes I've seen around my shop have all been
dry and rot-free under their skin. I can't recall seeing bare,
unprotected wood on any of them; but I don't know what's used. I'll
have to ask.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto

I haven't seen any heavy jets made from spruce and canvas, have you? Can you
post pictures?

"Jim Behning" wrote in message
...
They are made of spruce and canvas. Both can rot.

On Wed, 11 Oct 2006 12:10:25 -0400, "C & E"
wrote:

I had read about the benefits of using Corrosion-X (vs paste wax), a
marine-use anti-corrosive, but couldn't find it at the marinas and sporting
goods stores that I tried

snip.

I have used automatic transmission fluid mixed with about 25% kerosene
with good results, then a bit of paste wax from time to time.

Barry Lennox

"Jim Behning" wrote in message
...
They are made of spruce and canvas. Both can rot.

I think that you will find that the only canvas used in aircraft is as seat
upholstery and maybe some interior trim. It's way heavy as a covering
material.

In any case, there are very few aircraft in current production which are
made with wooden structure, and no commercial airliners--airliners used to
be mostly aluminum structure but advanced composites are being used now to
some extent.

On Wed, 11 Oct 2006 21:53:55 -0400, "Kyle Boatright"
wrote:


"CW" wrote in message
thlink.net...
If you knew what goes into an airplane and the way they are made, you
might
quit flying.


Please enlighten us...