Here's the situation:

Bought a used (blue) Jet cabinet saw a couple of months ago. The owner was moving and had the saw
in a/c storage for 2-3 months before I got it, but it was running fine when he put it in storage
(we've been exchanging phone messages today). It set in a/c storage for another couple of months
until I had time to make some room in the gara-shop.

Ok, so this afternoon I finished hooking up the 220v circuit - a single outlet, 30A circuit, 10guage
wire. The saw came with 14 ga cord, 25 ft long, which is per the Jet manual, but is the minimum. I
will replace this with 12 gauge.

Tested the circuit before plugging the saw in. Two hots and a neutral per my light tester. Plug
saw in, hit green start button, and nothing. Checked the new 30A plug to make sure black to black,
white to white, neutral to neutral aligned at the outlet. All ok.

Pulled the cover to the switch (clean inside), plugged the saw back in, and have two hots and a
neutral at the inlet to the switch. Had SWMBO hold in the green button with a stick, and checked
the black and white to the neutral on the outlet side of the switch. No light, not even a flicker.

Read manual, and tried to reset the switch via holding in the "stop" button. No click, no reset, no
help.

This is my first magnetic switch. Are these switches supposed to have a "click" or some sort of
latching feel when you hit the ON button? This just pushes in, and then springs right back. No
click or feel of any kind.

I found a place on the web to get a replacement switch, but it was $143 and change, plus shipping.
I would appreciate any money-saving suggestions to help get this critter up and running. I am not
an electrician, even if I do play one on TV.

Thanks for any help.

Roy

Roy wrote:
Here's the situation:

Bought a used (blue) Jet cabinet saw a couple of months ago.

snip

What is the data on the motor nameplate?

Voltage, phase, amperage, safety factor, etc, etc.

Lew

"Roy" wrote in message
...

Here's the situation:

Bought a used (blue) Jet cabinet saw a couple of months ago. The owner
was moving and had the saw
in a/c storage for 2-3 months before I got it, but it was running fine
when he put it in storage
(we've been exchanging phone messages today). It set in a/c storage for
another couple of months
until I had time to make some room in the gara-shop.

Ok, so this afternoon I finished hooking up the 220v circuit - a single
outlet, 30A circuit, 10guage
wire. The saw came with 14 ga cord, 25 ft long, which is per the Jet
manual, but is the minimum. I
will replace this with 12 gauge.

Tested the circuit before plugging the saw in. Two hots and a neutral per
my light tester. Plug
saw in, hit green start button, and nothing. Checked the new 30A plug to
make sure black to black,
white to white, neutral to neutral aligned at the outlet. All ok.

Pulled the cover to the switch (clean inside), plugged the saw back in,
and have two hots and a
neutral at the inlet to the switch. Had SWMBO hold in the green button
with a stick, and checked
the black and white to the neutral on the outlet side of the switch. No
light, not even a flicker.

Read manual, and tried to reset the switch via holding in the "stop"
button. No click, no reset, no
help.

This is my first magnetic switch. Are these switches supposed to have a
"click" or some sort of
latching feel when you hit the ON button? This just pushes in, and then
springs right back. No
click or feel of any kind.

I found a place on the web to get a replacement switch, but it was $143
and change, plus shipping.
I would appreciate any money-saving suggestions to help get this critter
up and running. I am not
an electrician, even if I do play one on TV.

I don't know anything about the Jet, but it would be unusual for it to need
a neutral. Are you sure about that.
Perhaps they exist, but I have never seen a tester for 240v. What are you
using? What is the H-H and H-N voltage?

My magnetic switch doesn't make any sound (at least none I can hear over the
motor), but I expect some do.

On Mon, 09 Oct 2006 03:45:07 GMT, Lew Hodgett wrote:


What is the data on the motor nameplate?

Voltage, phase, amperage, safety factor, etc, etc.

Original motor: 3hp, 220v, 14.5 amp, 3450 rpm, single phase, Class E, 60degC. I'll have to check
the service factor tomorrow. Thanks.

On Mon, 09 Oct 2006 03:57:36 GMT, "Toller" wrote:



Perhaps they exist, but I have never seen a tester for 240v. What are you
using? What is the H-H and H-N voltage?
All I had today was a tester light, so was only checking for whether there was a completed circuit
or not.

My magnetic switch doesn't make any sound (at least none I can hear over the
motor), but I expect some do.

Thanks - Roy

Roy wrote:

Original motor: 3hp, 220v, 14.5 amp, 3450 rpm, single phase, Class
E, 60degC. I'll have to check
the service factor tomorrow. Thanks.

Have you checked the motor for an overload reset button?

If present, will be on the back of the motor, probably near the
terminal box.

Lew

(Toller) wrote in :


"Roy" wrote in message
.. .


Tested the circuit before plugging the saw in. Two hots and a neutral
per my light tester. Plug
saw in, hit green start button, and nothing. Checked the new 30A plug
to make sure black to black,
white to white, neutral to neutral aligned at the outlet. All ok.


I don't know anything about the Jet, but it would be unusual for it to
need a neutral. Are you sure about that.
Perhaps they exist, but I have never seen a tester for 240v. What are
you using? What is the H-H and H-N voltage?



hmmm not sure how you can get 240 with just two wires .. I would say
he needs the ground(neutral)

mike

Roy said:

Here's the situation:

Bought a used (blue) Jet cabinet saw a couple of months ago.
snip
Thanks for any help.

I'm assuming that by neutral, you actually mean ground. Different
animals, although they eventually connect together in the main panel.
Make sure you are connecting to the GROUND bus in the panel, NOT the
neutral.

The ground connection is irrelevant while performing the following
tests - do not consider it. But don't short anything to it either. ;-)

If the motor is not running, you should be able to hear the clicking
of relay contacts in the magnetic switch. Normally you can not due to
motor noise.

I would check first for the Thermal Reset Switch on the motor.
Usually a red button on the back end of the motor.

If you do not hear any clicking from the controller, use your Neon
Tester/VOM/DVM to check for 220 vac across the hot terminals which
feed AC to the controller. If not there, check your wiring/cords.

If that is OK, check for 220vac on the terminals which feed the motor
while pressing START. If there is no voltage present, you have a
dysfunctional controller.

If there is voltage present, check at the motor terminals. If you
have power there, you obviously have a bad motor.

The controller can be repaired, but it ain't simple. And yes, they
are expensive.

FWIW

Mike_in_SD said:

hmmm not sure how you can get 240 with just two wires .. I would say
he needs the ground(neutral)

The ground (NOT neutral) is for equipment grounding/safety.
It is not a current carrying conductor. But you DO need it.

220 is derived from the two 180 degree out of phase legs of a
residential single phase AC feed. Each leg to neutral being
110/115/120/125 and across both legs being 220/230/240/250.

FWIW

On Mon, 09 Oct 2006 03:23:03 GMT, Roy wrote:


This is my first magnetic switch. Are these switches supposed to have a "click" or some sort of
latching feel when you hit the ON button? This just pushes in, and then springs right back. No
click or feel of any kind.

I found a place on the web to get a replacement switch, but it was $143 and change, plus shipping.
I would appreciate any money-saving suggestions to help get this critter up and running. I am not
an electrician, even if I do play one on TV.

If it were mine, I think I'd try replacing the magnetic switch with a
light switch that can handle the load to see if it works. If it works
with a different swich, then I'd pony up the money for a replacement,
but probably not before establishing that the switch is really the
problem.

Thanks for any help.

Roy

Roy wrote:
Here's the situation:

Bought a used (blue) Jet cabinet saw a couple of months ago. The owner was moving and had the saw
in a/c storage for 2-3 months before I got it, but it was running fine when he put it in storage
(we've been exchanging phone messages today). It set in a/c storage for another couple of months
until I had time to make some room in the gara-shop.

Ok, so this afternoon I finished hooking up the 220v circuit - a single outlet, 30A circuit, 10guage
wire. The saw came with 14 ga cord, 25 ft long, which is per the Jet manual, but is the minimum. I
will replace this with 12 gauge.

Tested the circuit before plugging the saw in. Two hots and a neutral per my light tester. Plug
saw in, hit green start button, and nothing. Checked the new 30A plug to make sure black to black,
white to white, neutral to neutral aligned at the outlet. All ok.

Pulled the cover to the switch (clean inside), plugged the saw back in, and have two hots and a
neutral at the inlet to the switch. Had SWMBO hold in the green button with a stick, and checked
the black and white to the neutral on the outlet side of the switch. No light, not even a flicker.

Read manual, and tried to reset the switch via holding in the "stop" button. No click, no reset, no
help.

This is my first magnetic switch. Are these switches supposed to have a "click" or some sort of
latching feel when you hit the ON button? This just pushes in, and then springs right back. No
click or feel of any kind.

I found a place on the web to get a replacement switch, but it was $143 and change, plus shipping.
I would appreciate any money-saving suggestions to help get this critter up and running. I am not
an electrician, even if I do play one on TV.

Thanks for any help.

Roy


One more test you need to do before buying a new switch. Buy or borrow a
METER tester and check for 220 v between Hot and Hot lines. Since this
is a new outlet setup, that should not be assumed just because each side
is hot in relation to the neutral.

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

Above all things, revere yourself.





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If, in the end, you do need a new magnetic switch, Grizzly offers a 220 v,
single phase, 3 HP switch for $60. No personal experience with it.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/sear....aspx?q=switch

David Merrill

"DGG" wrote in message
...
... snip ...

The controller can be repaired, but it ain't simple. And yes, they
are expensive.

FWIW

Roy writes:

Tested the circuit before plugging the saw in. Two hots and a
neutral per my light tester.

Are the two hots different phases?


--
Sending unsolicited commercial e-mail to this account incurs a fee of
$500 per message, and acknowledges the legality of this contract.

Gerald Ross wrote:

One more test you need to do before buying a new switch. Buy or borrow a
METER tester and check for 220 v between Hot and Hot lines. Since this
is a new outlet setup, that should not be assumed just because each side
is hot in relation to the neutral.


Definitely, especially if its an older house. The service may only be
110 V.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

On Mon, 9 Oct 2006 14:30:34 +0000 (UTC), Bruce Barnett
wrote:

Roy writes:

Tested the circuit before plugging the saw in. Two hots and a
neutral per my light tester.

Are the two hots different phases?

http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_2/chpt_10/1.html

Look down on the page and it show the 120/240 circuit.

THANKS!!! to everyone who responded and offered suggestions. You got me going in the right
direction.

Came home from work voltmeter in hand, and started tracing voltages. Had 110 on individual leads to
ground, but zero across hot to hot across the breaker on the subpanel. I decided the breaker had to
be bad so pulled it. I lost my balance as I set it on a lumber shelf, and ended up with my head
against the wall looking at the left side of the third breaker on the top row. There was an
insulator right down the middle of the box. Turns out the only way to get 220v on the box is to use
positions 3 and 4 on each row. I've never come across that before, but I obviously don't do wiring
for a living. Damn near knocked myself out slapping myself on the forehead once I realized how
simple the solution was. Pretty obvious to me now.

It's a Federal Pacific box and breakers. Aside from the safety concerns with FP, I still need
another 220v breaker. I plan to upgrade to a Square-D subpanel on Saturday.

The saw runs great by the way. Thanks again for all the help, gang.


Regards,
Roy

On Mon, 09 Oct 2006 03:23:03 GMT, Roy wrote:


Here's the situation:

Bought a used (blue) Jet cabinet saw a couple of months ago. The owner was moving and had the saw
in a/c storage for 2-3 months before I got it, but it was running fine when he put it in storage
(we've been exchanging phone messages today). It set in a/c storage for another couple of months
until I had time to make some room in the gara-shop.

Ok, so this afternoon I finished hooking up the 220v circuit - a single outlet, 30A circuit, 10guage
wire. The saw came with 14 ga cord, 25 ft long, which is per the Jet manual, but is the minimum. I
will replace this with 12 gauge.

Tested the circuit before plugging the saw in. Two hots and a neutral per my light tester. Plug
saw in, hit green start button, and nothing. Checked the new 30A plug to make sure black to black,
white to white, neutral to neutral aligned at the outlet. All ok.

Pulled the cover to the switch (clean inside), plugged the saw back in, and have two hots and a
neutral at the inlet to the switch. Had SWMBO hold in the green button with a stick, and checked
the black and white to the neutral on the outlet side of the switch. No light, not even a flicker.

Read manual, and tried to reset the switch via holding in the "stop" button. No click, no reset, no
help.

This is my first magnetic switch. Are these switches supposed to have a "click" or some sort of
latching feel when you hit the ON button? This just pushes in, and then springs right back. No
click or feel of any kind.

I found a place on the web to get a replacement switch, but it was $143 and change, plus shipping.
I would appreciate any money-saving suggestions to help get this critter up and running. I am not
an electrician, even if I do play one on TV.

Thanks for any help.

Roy

Roy wrote:
THANKS!!! to everyone who responded and offered suggestions. You
got me going in the right
direction.

Came home from work voltmeter in hand, and started tracing
voltages. Had 110 on individual leads to
ground, but zero across hot to hot across the breaker on the
subpanel. I decided the breaker had to
be bad so pulled it. I lost my balance as I set it on a lumber
shelf, and ended up with my head
against the wall looking at the left side of the third breaker on
the top row. There was an
insulator right down the middle of the box. Turns out the only way
to get 220v on the box is to use
positions 3 and 4 on each row. I've never come across that before,
but I obviously don't do wiring
for a living. Damn near knocked myself out slapping myself on the
forehead once I realized how
simple the solution was. Pretty obvious to me now.

It's a Federal Pacific box and breakers. Aside from the safety
concerns with FP, I still need
another 220v breaker. I plan to upgrade to a Square-D subpanel on
Saturday.


SFWIW, c'bkr spacing is dictated by the max number of c'bkrs of a
particular voltage.

When you replace your sub panel get a 125A main lug only panel,
12P(full size)/24P(half size) c'bkr spaces, then add a 2P-60A main
c'bkr kit along with an insulated ground bar.

Sq Duck uses smaller width bkr case than others, but I been away from
it too long to remember exactly what it is.

Have fun.

Lew

"Roy" wrote in message

insulator right down the middle of the box. Turns out the only way to get
220v on the box is to use
positions 3 and 4 on each row. I've never come across that before, but I
obviously don't do wiring
for a living.

Don't feel bad ... even those who do still fall in that trap. I've had
electricians merrily wire 220v circuits with both hots from the same leg
when using these half height breakers. AAMOF, it's happened so often that it
is now is an item on my checklist when doing punch-out on a new house.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 10/01/06

On Tue, 10 Oct 2006 03:46:41 GMT, Roy wrote:

It's a Federal Pacific box and breakers. Aside from the safety concerns with FP, I still need
another 220v breaker. I plan to upgrade to a Square-D subpanel on Saturday.

Get the QO line of Square D stuff. The Homeline (or whatever they call
it) isn't near as robust (still better than FP, though). QO costs a
little more but worth it.

--
LRod

Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite

Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999

http://www.woodbutcher.net

Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997

email addy de-spam-ified due to 1,000 spams per month.
If you can't figure out how to use it, I probably wouldn't
care to correspond with you anyway.