I fooled with that thing for several hours. I have two blades adjusted
to about .002 above outfeed table. One blade is at 0. SHould I try to
get that last blade to .002 also or knock down the two at .002 to zero.
It is very hard to get everything exactly the same on three blades.

Or will the difference be negligible the way it is?

"stryped" wrote in message
ups.com...
I fooled with that thing for several hours. I have two blades adjusted
to about .002 above outfeed table. One blade is at 0. SHould I try to
get that last blade to .002 also or knock down the two at .002 to zero.
It is very hard to get everything exactly the same on three blades.

Or will the difference be negligible the way it is?


Seems to me that adjusting one blade to match the other two would be easier
than adusting two blades to match one....

It is just people on here some say to adjust to .002 over the outfeed
table to account for blade wear and deflection. SOme say it must be
exactly 0 or you will not get a level cut. Just a little confused.
Locutus wrote:
"stryped" wrote in message
ups.com...
I fooled with that thing for several hours. I have two blades adjusted
to about .002 above outfeed table. One blade is at 0. SHould I try to
get that last blade to .002 also or knock down the two at .002 to zero.
It is very hard to get everything exactly the same on three blades.

Or will the difference be negligible the way it is?


Seems to me that adjusting one blade to match the other two would be easier
than adusting two blades to match one....

--top posting repaired--

stryped wrote:

Locutus wrote:
"stryped" wrote in message
ups.com...
I fooled with that thing for several hours. I have two blades adjusted
to about .002 above outfeed table. One blade is at 0. SHould I try to
get that last blade to .002 also or knock down the two at .002 to zero.
It is very hard to get everything exactly the same on three blades.

Or will the difference be negligible the way it is?


Seems to me that adjusting one blade to match the other two would be easier
than adusting two blades to match one....

It is just people on here some say to adjust to .002 over the outfeed
table to account for blade wear and deflection. SOme say it must be
exactly 0 or you will not get a level cut. Just a little confused.

Why not give it a go and see how it works? Might find it "good
enough".

In general must agree w/ Locutus it's easier to fiddle w/ one than
two...I reiterate previous recommendation that w/o the adjusting screws
it will undoubtedly by easier if you've tightened them down to bring
the one back up a little high and tap it in than get it out by only a
thou or two.

The thing about the height relative to the outfeed table is, yet again,
the point in having the height adjusting screws on the cutterhead
itself. Get the knives consistent, then make some test cuts and, if
and only if needed, then adjust the cutterhead height. Again, this is
how the manual instructs.

Reiterate yet again, however...woodworking isn't machining, and
obsessing over precision isn't productive. The point in having the
machine should be to use it (although there are those who seemingly
never do get around to actually ever making sawdust---you may be one.
Whether that's your objective, I don't know).

stryped wrote:
I fooled with that thing for several hours. I have two blades adjusted
to about .002 above outfeed table. One blade is at 0. SHould I try to
get that last blade to .002 also or knock down the two at .002 to zero.
It is very hard to get everything exactly the same on three blades.

Or will the difference be negligible the way it is?


hey, go for it. get them all the same.

now, whether your machine will cut straighter at 0 or at +.002 only
you can determine, and only by careful testing. so, with the machine as
it is, make a pass on a known straight board. label it 0,+.002,+.002.
then adjust the 0 blade to +.002, make a pass on a known straight board
and label it +.002,+.002,+.002. then set them all to 0, make a pass on
a known straight board and label it 0,0,0.
for significant results, you will probably need to make multiple
samples at each setting to average out for variations in the stability
and density of your boards. also,make boards of different lengths....

now set up an accurate test station to determine straightness. if you
get meaningful results, including things like (no difference),(high
blades cut concave),(high blades cut straight),(low blades cut
convex),(low blades cut straight),(other), let us know.

now, go get going, now....

stryped wrote:

I fooled with that thing for several hours. I have two blades adjusted
to about .002 above outfeed table. One blade is at 0. SHould I try to
get that last blade to .002 also or knock down the two at .002 to zero.
It is very hard to get everything exactly the same on three blades.

Or will the difference be negligible the way it is?

Rather than go for "ideal/perfect", run a few boards with the
set up you have. If the results look good to you then you're
done. If not, THEN adjust the one that's 0.002" off the other
two.

Keep in mind that the joiner and planer are for creating reference
surfaces and edges for subsequent parts making. Glass smooth
edges and surfaces aren't necessary. And while making and
assembling parts, your going to get smudges, pencil marks and
stuff on the surfaces which you'll remove later with sand
paper and/or scrapers.

Realize that 0.002" is less than 1/256ths of an inch. After
you run 20 or 30 feet of stuff the 0.002" high knife edges
will probably be closer to the Zero knife anyway.

While it's good to know if your machines are set up correctly,
and assuming an out of ideal specs isn't dangerous, it's the
results that are important - not the theoretical perfection.

Don't sweat the small stuff unless they significantly affect
the big stuff.

charlie b

wrote:

now, go get going, now....

LOL!!! That's just plain mean :-)

--
Dave
www.davebbq.com

stryped wrote:
I fooled with that thing for several hours. I have two blades
adjusted to about .002 above outfeed table. One blade is at 0.
SHould I try to get that last blade to .002 also or knock down the
two at .002 to zero. It is very hard to get everything exactly the
same on three blades.

Or will the difference be negligible the way it is?

Negligible? Depends...2 blades will be taking off 1/500 (plus or
minus) more than the third. Is 1/500 of an inch significant with
wood? Not to me...

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

The jointer is used for two operations.....jointing edges, which is easy and
leveling boards which requires precision setting of the knives. I learned
this when I tried to flatten a badly warped piece of maple. It made edges
straight as can be but the warp got worse the more times I put the piece
through the jointer. I then set the blades exactly all the same and level
with the outlet table. The board suddenly got flatter and flatter with each
pass.
Dave
"stryped" wrote in message
ups.com...
I fooled with that thing for several hours. I have two blades adjusted
to about .002 above outfeed table. One blade is at 0. SHould I try to
get that last blade to .002 also or knock down the two at .002 to zero.
It is very hard to get everything exactly the same on three blades.

Or will the difference be negligible the way it is?

charlie b wrote:
After
you run 20 or 30 feet of stuff the 0.002" high knife edges
will probably be closer to the Zero knife anyway.


charlie b
What type of wood are you running though your jointer that takes off 2
thou in 30 feet?

Dave

"Dave W" wrote in
:

The jointer is used for two operations.....jointing edges, which is
easy and leveling boards which requires precision setting of the
knives. I learned this when I tried to flatten a badly warped piece
of maple. It made edges straight as can be but the warp got worse the
more times I put the piece through the jointer. I then set the blades
exactly all the same and level with the outlet table. The board
suddenly got flatter and flatter with each pass.
Dave

Stryped,

This reminds me of an incident that happened some years ago to a company
that made mid-sized lawn and garden equipment. The garden tractor they
made was nice machine. One day they started getting calls with
transmissions failing. The transmission had been in production for years
with never a problem and suddenly they were seeing hundreds of failures.
What had happened was that the various shafts in the transmission were
specified to be +.001 -.002. Well they had bought new machines to
replace their old ones and the machinists set the new machines up the
same way as the old ones which was at +.001. The new machines held that
tolerance instead of randomly cutting things up to .003 shorter. All of
those .001 added up and they would up in a situation where there was now
a .001 interference fit and the shafts would burn due to a lack of oil.
They changed their specs to +0 -.002 and all was well again.

So tell me how many passes are you going to take on the board and have it
be .002 out and what is the cumulative effect? Lets say you have one
board. It has two edges. You glue up 3 boards. That is 6 edges. 6
*.002=.012 Make two passes on each board? You could be out .024 inches.
1/64th = .0156

I leave the choice of whether or not to chase after that .002 up to you.

Did you watch the google video on setting jointer and planer knives?

I trust you have a dial indicator and a base.




"stryped" wrote in message
ups.com...
I fooled with that thing for several hours. I have two blades adjusted
to about .002 above outfeed table. One blade is at 0. SHould I try to
get that last blade to .002 also or knock down the two at .002 to
zero. It is very hard to get everything exactly the same on three
blades.

Or will the difference be negligible the way it is?