Update:

Took the dial indicator home this weekend. It is in metric and one mark
equals .01 mm. Something was wrong with it though because I could not
turn the magnet off.

Is it best to try and use a dial indicator to set the blade height or
is it acceptble to just use a block of wood? If I use the dial
indicator to set blad height how do I do it? Do I zero the meter at the
outfeed table and then raise the blade to equal zero on the indicator
when using it on the blade at the highest point? I guess the question I
have is if I were to measure the end of the outfeed table closest to
the blades going the entire width (6 inches or so) I get different
readings. Should I just use the highest readind and use that to
determine blade height? Or should I pick a spot on the outfeed table
next to the blade exactly across from it and set the blade to that
height?

It was frustrating because that thing is hard to pull around with the
magnet not turning off. I am thinking of just breaking down and buy one
in standard.

The first blade I just set by raising it to a block of wood. All ends
of the blade touch the wood. But it seems the middle may be a slightly
different height than the ends for some reason. The blade will actually
move the wood a very small distance in some places on the blade and
touch but not move it at all in others.

I also tried magnets but there is not enough room to tightne the allen
head bolts holding the blade on while the magnet is holding it. I tried
everythign I could think of but the screw holes are under the machine
when the knife is being helt at its highest point.

I just want good enough accuracy to have perfect fitting edges so I can
glue up pannels and do some face planing on small boards.

ANy advice is greatly appreciated!

stryped,

Please post some pics of your projects to abpw so we can better understand
how important the tolerances are that you are questioning and trying to
achieve.

jc

"stryped" wrote in message
ups.com...

Update:

Took the dial indicator home this weekend. It is in metric and one mark
equals .01 mm. Something was wrong with it though because I could not
turn the magnet off.

Is it best to try and use a dial indicator to set the blade height or
is it acceptble to just use a block of wood? If I use the dial
indicator to set blad height how do I do it? Do I zero the meter at the
outfeed table and then raise the blade to equal zero on the indicator
when using it on the blade at the highest point? I guess the question I
have is if I were to measure the end of the outfeed table closest to
the blades going the entire width (6 inches or so) I get different
readings. Should I just use the highest readind and use that to
determine blade height? Or should I pick a spot on the outfeed table
next to the blade exactly across from it and set the blade to that
height?

It was frustrating because that thing is hard to pull around with the
magnet not turning off. I am thinking of just breaking down and buy one
in standard.

The first blade I just set by raising it to a block of wood. All ends
of the blade touch the wood. But it seems the middle may be a slightly
different height than the ends for some reason. The blade will actually
move the wood a very small distance in some places on the blade and
touch but not move it at all in others.

I also tried magnets but there is not enough room to tightne the allen
head bolts holding the blade on while the magnet is holding it. I tried
everythign I could think of but the screw holes are under the machine
when the knife is being helt at its highest point.

I just want good enough accuracy to have perfect fitting edges so I can
glue up pannels and do some face planing on small boards.

ANy advice is greatly appreciated!

Why? I have previously posted my knife drawer but really that is the
only project I have done yet.

Joe wrote:
stryped,

Please post some pics of your projects to abpw so we can better understand
how important the tolerances are that you are questioning and trying to
achieve.

jc

"stryped" wrote in message
ups.com...

Update:

Took the dial indicator home this weekend. It is in metric and one mark
equals .01 mm. Something was wrong with it though because I could not
turn the magnet off.

Is it best to try and use a dial indicator to set the blade height or
is it acceptble to just use a block of wood? If I use the dial
indicator to set blad height how do I do it? Do I zero the meter at the
outfeed table and then raise the blade to equal zero on the indicator
when using it on the blade at the highest point? I guess the question I
have is if I were to measure the end of the outfeed table closest to
the blades going the entire width (6 inches or so) I get different
readings. Should I just use the highest readind and use that to
determine blade height? Or should I pick a spot on the outfeed table
next to the blade exactly across from it and set the blade to that
height?

It was frustrating because that thing is hard to pull around with the
magnet not turning off. I am thinking of just breaking down and buy one
in standard.

The first blade I just set by raising it to a block of wood. All ends
of the blade touch the wood. But it seems the middle may be a slightly
different height than the ends for some reason. The blade will actually
move the wood a very small distance in some places on the blade and
touch but not move it at all in others.

I also tried magnets but there is not enough room to tightne the allen
head bolts holding the blade on while the magnet is holding it. I tried
everythign I could think of but the screw holes are under the machine
when the knife is being helt at its highest point.

I just want good enough accuracy to have perfect fitting edges so I can
glue up pannels and do some face planing on small boards.

ANy advice is greatly appreciated!

Here is what I have found, others may differ. If the blades are above the
outlet table, even a few thousanths, you will never get a board flat. For
me, the only to assure equality in height is with a dial gage. The dial
gage is also very helpful for getting the three blades in the same elevation
and parallel to the tables.
Dave

"Dave W" wrote:

Here is what I have found, others may differ. If the blades are above the
outlet table, even a few thousanths, you will never get a board flat. For
me, the only to assure equality in height is with a dial gage. The dial
gage is also very helpful for getting the three blades in the same elevation
and parallel to the tables.
Dave

Okay, I'll differ on both counts, while acknowledging that YMMV.

While "a few" thousandths may be too much, a very slight bias higher
than the table is advantageous, for a couple of reasons:

Look at a jointer cut. It is scalloped. The height of the blade at TDC
cuts the bottom of the scallop, while the board on the outfeed table
is resting on the peaks between cuts. So to have a perfectly straight
cut, the outfeed table should be lower than the blades by the depth of
the scallop. And on this basis, you should vary the height of your
outfeed table based on the speed with which you are pushing through
material--but we are WAY beyond practical reality here!

For a second reason, the blades are wear items, while the tables are
not. Cutting will shorten the knives, and if they start out dead level
with the outfeed, soon they will be lower, and your work will catch on
the outfeed table.

For the third, and most important reason, it works better for me.
Also, high knives means any spring in the joint will be in the center
not the ends, which I prefer.

As far as setting, I've found using my dial indicator to be a PITA. I
get every bit as good results with a straightedge resting on the
outfeed table, observing how far I drag it as I slowly rotate the
cutter head through blade contact with the straightedge.
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.

What is the "ideal drag" with a striaght edge?
alexy wrote:
"Dave W" wrote:

Here is what I have found, others may differ. If the blades are above the
outlet table, even a few thousanths, you will never get a board flat. For
me, the only to assure equality in height is with a dial gage. The dial
gage is also very helpful for getting the three blades in the same elevation
and parallel to the tables.
Dave

Okay, I'll differ on both counts, while acknowledging that YMMV.

While "a few" thousandths may be too much, a very slight bias higher
than the table is advantageous, for a couple of reasons:

Look at a jointer cut. It is scalloped. The height of the blade at TDC
cuts the bottom of the scallop, while the board on the outfeed table
is resting on the peaks between cuts. So to have a perfectly straight
cut, the outfeed table should be lower than the blades by the depth of
the scallop. And on this basis, you should vary the height of your
outfeed table based on the speed with which you are pushing through
material--but we are WAY beyond practical reality here!

For a second reason, the blades are wear items, while the tables are
not. Cutting will shorten the knives, and if they start out dead level
with the outfeed, soon they will be lower, and your work will catch on
the outfeed table.

For the third, and most important reason, it works better for me.
Also, high knives means any spring in the joint will be in the center
not the ends, which I prefer.

As far as setting, I've found using my dial indicator to be a PITA. I
get every bit as good results with a straightedge resting on the
outfeed table, observing how far I drag it as I slowly rotate the
cutter head through blade contact with the straightedge.
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.

Approaching none. The best I have been able to accomplish is around 1/8".

My jointer preforms well (no light between edges) with this level of
accuracy.

-Steve

What is the "ideal drag" with a striaght edge?
alexy wrote:

"stryped" wrote:

What is the "ideal drag" with a striaght edge?

To determine ideal, I'd have to do the same thing you would--check a
book in the library. But I don't think "ideal" is as important as
consistent--from end to end of each knife and from knife to knife.
FWIW, mine drags a straight-edge about 1/8". If my cutterhead is about
2" in diameter, that means my knives are about .002" higher than the
outfeed table.

That works well for me on my machine. You'll have to find what works
for you on your machine.
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.

"stryped" wrote in message
ups.com...

Update:

Took the dial indicator home this weekend. It is in metric and one mark
equals .01 mm. Something was wrong with it though because I could not
turn the magnet off.
Doesn't this device have a permanent magnet? You can't turn such a magnet
off.
If it is an electromagnet, which is unlikely, you just disconnect it from
the power.
Jim

alexy wrote:
"stryped" wrote:

What is the "ideal drag" with a striaght edge?

To determine ideal, I'd have to do the same thing you would--check a
book in the library. But I don't think "ideal" is as important as
consistent--from end to end of each knife and from knife to knife.
FWIW, mine drags a straight-edge about 1/8". If my cutterhead is about
2" in diameter, that means my knives are about .002" higher than the
outfeed table.


Now you're going to have to calculate Stryped's ideal drag on his
cutterhead with 2.5" diameter. Then he'll post that his straight-edge
drags about 1/64" less than that amount and will want to what to do to
fix it and if it is OK. Of course after he asks where to buy a
straight-edge.

Jim wrote:
"stryped" wrote in message
ups.com...

Update:

Took the dial indicator home this weekend. It is in metric and one mark
equals .01 mm. Something was wrong with it though because I could not
turn the magnet off.
Doesn't this device have a permanent magnet? You can't turn such a magnet
off.
If it is an electromagnet, which is unlikely, you just disconnect it from
the power.
Jim

Some have a lever on the base that you turn to de-magnetize the base.
I guess it just pulls the magnet away from the bottom.

http://tinyurl.com/jjdme

In article , "Jim" wrote:

"stryped" wrote in message
oups.com...

Update:

Took the dial indicator home this weekend. It is in metric and one mark
equals .01 mm. Something was wrong with it though because I could not
turn the magnet off.
Doesn't this device have a permanent magnet? You can't turn such a magnet
off.

Some of these magnetic bases have a lever that moves the magnet up inside the
base to release the grip -- perhaps that's what he's talking about.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

"RayV" wrote:


alexy wrote:
"stryped" wrote:

What is the "ideal drag" with a striaght edge?

To determine ideal, I'd have to do the same thing you would--check a
book in the library. But I don't think "ideal" is as important as
consistent--from end to end of each knife and from knife to knife.
FWIW, mine drags a straight-edge about 1/8". If my cutterhead is about
2" in diameter, that means my knives are about .002" higher than the
outfeed table.


Now you're going to have to calculate Stryped's ideal drag on his
cutterhead with 2.5" diameter. Then he'll post that his straight-edge
drags about 1/64" less than that amount and will want to what to do to
fix it and if it is OK. Of course after he asks where to buy a
straight-edge.

LOL!
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.

"RayV" wrote:


Jim wrote:
"stryped" wrote in message
ups.com...

Update:

Took the dial indicator home this weekend. It is in metric and one mark
equals .01 mm. Something was wrong with it though because I could not
turn the magnet off.
Doesn't this device have a permanent magnet? You can't turn such a magnet
off.
If it is an electromagnet, which is unlikely, you just disconnect it from
the power.
Jim

Some have a lever on the base that you turn to de-magnetize the base.
I guess it just pulls the magnet away from the bottom.

http://tinyurl.com/jjdme

But it always seems to turn too easily to work like that, no matter
how much mechanical advantage there is. Turns out it is a cleverer
arrangement than that. Here's the wikipedia explanation:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnetic_base
--
Alex -- Replace "nospam" with "mail" to reply by email. Checked infrequently.

In article , alexy wrote:

But it always seems to turn too easily to work like that, no matter
how much mechanical advantage there is. Turns out it is a cleverer
arrangement than that. Here's the wikipedia explanation:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnetic_base

Wow. That's pretty ingenious. I didn't know about that. Thanks.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

That is what I borrowed but something was wrong with it. It would not
turn off even if the switch was turned to the off position.
Doug Miller wrote:
In article , alexy wrote:

But it always seems to turn too easily to work like that, no matter
how much mechanical advantage there is. Turns out it is a cleverer
arrangement than that. Here's the wikipedia explanation:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnetic_base

Wow. That's pretty ingenious. I didn't know about that. Thanks.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

In article .com, "stryped" wrote:
That is what I borrowed but something was wrong with it. It would not
turn off even if the switch was turned to the off position.

The knob probably came loose from the magnet.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

Doug Miller wrote:
In article .com,
"stryped" wrote:
That is what I borrowed but something was wrong with it. It would
not turn off even if the switch was turned to the off position.

The knob probably came loose from the magnet.

Or the table is magnetized

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

alexy wrote:

But it always seems to turn too easily to work like that, no matter
how much mechanical advantage there is. Turns out it is a cleverer
arrangement than that. Here's the wikipedia explanation:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnetic_base

From wikipedia article:
"but its advantage lies in the fact that there is only one mechanism
(screw) to loosen or tighten the arrangement making it easier to use,
unlike the other where a third hand is often wished for."

Ray wonders what he would do with a third hand...

On Mon, 25 Sep 2006 05:30:47 -0700, stryped wrote:

ANy advice is greatly appreciated!

Just watch this guy:
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=2983839096587014177&hl=en

Bob Vaughan has probably set more jointer knives than the rest of us
combined.

--
-Joe Wells

"Here stands baseball's perfect warrior. Here stands baseball's perfect knight."
-Ford Frick upon Stan Musial's retirement

RayV wrote:


Now you're going to have to calculate Stryped's ideal drag on his
cutterhead with 2.5" diameter. Then he'll post that his straight-edge
drags about 1/64" less than that amount and will want to what to do to
fix it and if it is OK. Of course after he asks where to buy a
straight-edge.


You forgot to mention "How do I rotate the cutter head?"

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

You folks are catching on. Gentleman we have been accosted by a troll, or
an idiot that should not be allowed to play with power tools or sharp
objects.


--
Roger Shoaf
If you are not part of the solution, you are not dissolved in the solvent.


"Nova" wrote in message
news:VCWRg.5546$Ev4.2858@trndny03...
RayV wrote:


Now you're going to have to calculate Stryped's ideal drag on his
cutterhead with 2.5" diameter. Then he'll post that his straight-edge
drags about 1/64" less than that amount and will want to what to do to
fix it and if it is OK. Of course after he asks where to buy a
straight-edge.


You forgot to mention "How do I rotate the cutter head?"

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

Roger Shoaf wrote:
You folks are catching on. Gentleman we have been accosted by a troll, or
an idiot that should not be allowed to play with power tools or sharp
objects.



nah, he's just a green noobie with a bad case of the cautions. check
out his posting history- he's actually learning, and doing it in spite
of being pretty constantly flamed.

wrote in message
ps.com...

Roger Shoaf wrote:
You folks are catching on. Gentleman we have been accosted by a troll,
or
an idiot that should not be allowed to play with power tools or sharp
objects.



nah, he's just a green noobie with a bad case of the cautions. check
out his posting history- he's actually learning, and doing it in spite
of being pretty constantly flamed.


The best trolls are hard to identify as such.

However, checking his post history should be enough to tip anyone off....

Nova wrote:

You forgot to mention "How do I rotate the cutter head?"

Actually, that may not be a stupid question . . .

I recently bought a used Delta 37-275X 6" jointer--my first. I
started by reading through the manual, and going through the stuff
to check and adjust. When I got to the parts in the manual about
adjusting and replacing the knives, it mentioned the usual stuff
about making sure the power was disconnected, the knives are sharp,
and how to use a straight edge. The nice manual even has some
pictures and diagrams--cool!

But as I'm trying to emulate one of the pictures, which show the
cutter head with one of the blades at top-dead-center, I find I
can't do that. When I position the cutter head at that position--it
springs back or forward. No where, and I mean NO WHERE in the
manual does it mention that you should remove the belt first. Once
I did disconnect the belt, the cutter head would now freely move
around without springing back or forward.

Maybe this is just an issue with this model of Delta jointer, maybe
other jointers behave differently, and maybe others have manuals that
say to remove the belt. At any rate, I had to figure this one out
on my own, as the manual made absolutely no mention of this. So
asking about how to rotate the cutter head might not be such an
obvious question.

--

If you want to reply via email, change the obvious words to numbers and
remove ".invalid".