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#1
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Cutting Board problem
I made a little simple cutting board and afterward I sanded in canola
oil with 400 grit paper. However, the board is unusable now because once it dries the wood has started to come up in certain places and splinters are showing. Cutting some food on this seems unwise and my project seems to be a failure. Any advice on how to save the board and avoid the splinter problem in the future? Rob |
#2
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Cutting Board problem
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#3
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Cutting Board problem
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#4
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Cutting Board problem
Thanks for the help...
I used oak for the board. I will try the wet sanding technique. Rob |
#5
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Cutting Board problem
the best solution is to use maple for the cuttin gboard. Hard, not
splinterty and non-porouse (so no food gets stuck in it). Don't put any finish on it. The wood has really good natural bacteriacides in it, so you won't need to worry about things growing on it 9assuming a modicum of care). Because you've already started with oak, you could simply strip ot down and see how it does. oak has 8really* good anti bacterial properties, and lots of tannins as well (which will also help discourage stuff from growing). The fact that it is open grained could be aproblem - if you're cutting something mushy or really juicy, the stuff willget forced down into the pores, and could rot there. Good cleaning might keep up with it. No matter what finish yuo put down, it will get cut and worn, and re-expose the pores, so I'm not sure that there is areal solution to that problem. also, Oak is pretty splintery, so as it wears, it'll get more liley to throw a splinter.... I would probably just scrap the oak and start oer with maple. If thats not an option, I'd keep the oak raw, clean it really well after every use, and watch and see how it does..... as a side note: I use a lot of scrap for cutting boards. My favorite is maple, but I've also used cherry (works great, but can turn funny colors), mahogany (kinds soft, wears fast), and rosewood (only once - really hard, and was to rough on my knives).... --JD wrote in message ps.com... I made a little simple cutting board and afterward I sanded in canola oil with 400 grit paper. However, the board is unusable now because once it dries the wood has started to come up in certain places and splinters are showing. Cutting some food on this seems unwise and my project seems to be a failure. Any advice on how to save the board and avoid the splinter problem in the future? Rob |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
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Cutting Board problem
"jd" wrote in
: the best solution is to use maple for the cuttin gboard. Hard, not splinterty and non-porouse (so no food gets stuck in it). Don't put any finish on it. The wood has really good natural bacteriacides in it, so you won't need to worry about things growing on it 9assuming a modicum of care). Because you've already started with oak, you could simply strip ot down and see how it does. oak has 8really* good anti bacterial properties, and lots of tannins as well (which will also help discourage stuff from growing). The fact that it is open grained could be aproblem - if you're cutting something mushy or really juicy, the stuff willget forced down into the pores, and could rot there. Good cleaning might keep up with it. No matter what finish yuo put down, it will get cut and worn, and re-expose the pores, so I'm not sure that there is areal solution to that problem. also, Oak is pretty splintery, so as it wears, it'll get more liley to throw a splinter.... I would probably just scrap the oak and start oer with maple. If thats not an option, I'd keep the oak raw, clean it really well after every use, and watch and see how it does..... as a side note: I use a lot of scrap for cutting boards. My favorite is maple, but I've also used cherry (works great, but can turn funny colors), mahogany (kinds soft, wears fast), and rosewood (only once - really hard, and was to rough on my knives).... --JD wrote in message ps.com... I made a little simple cutting board and afterward I sanded in canola oil with 400 grit paper. However, the board is unusable now because once it dries the wood has started to come up in certain places and splinters are showing. Cutting some food on this seems unwise and my project seems to be a failure. Any advice on how to save the board and avoid the splinter problem in the future? Rob I use a Salad Bowl finish on the cutting boards I make. Wood is an excellent material for cutting boards. It kills the nasties that may grow. Much better than plastic. Plastic does nothing to kill critters. |
#7
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Cutting Board problem
wrote in message ups.com... Thanks for the help... I used oak for the board. I will try the wet sanding technique. Toss it into the fire and start over. Oak is a terrible wood for cutting boards. Much to porous and it will absorb a lot of liquids. Cut a small strip about 6" long. Put it in a glass of water and blow through it and you will understand why maple and other close grained wood is used. |
#8
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Cutting Board problem
On Mon, 25 Sep 2006 03:19:56 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski"
wrote: Cut a small strip about 6" long. Put it in a glass of water and blow through it and you will understand why maple and other close grained wood is used. That only works with red oak. Try it with white oak and your face will turn blue while you're waiting for bubbles. That's why it's used for wine barrels (well, that and the flavor). -- LRod Master Woodbutcher and seasoned termite Shamelessly whoring my website since 1999 http://www.woodbutcher.net Proud participant of rec.woodworking since February, 1997 email addy de-spam-ified due to 1,000 spams per month. If you can't figure out how to use it, I probably wouldn't care to correspond with you anyway. |
#9
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Cutting Board problem
On 24 Sep 2006 17:18:10 -0400, DJ Delorie wrote:
writes: Cutting some food on this seems unwise and my project seems to be a failure. Any advice on how to save the board and avoid the splinter problem in the future? When I do project that might get wet, I wet sand them. Make the item as usual, then get it wet (I use a spray bottle for turned bowls) and let it dry. Then sand off the fuzzies. Do the wet-dry step between each grit until it feels smooth after it dries. Since your finish is just canola oil, you should be able to go back to the sanding steps (start at, say, 150 grit) and just re-do everythign from there - sand, wet/dry, sand, etc, oil. This is exactly what I did to one project. Dampen the wood, let it dry, sand, repeat. Warm up the board and apply mineral oil. |
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