I read in a book that if you let timber "rest" and dry out they are more
stable after you saw them into lumber, my wife's Grandfather (who owns a
sawmill) and has lot more experience at this likes to saw green "easier
to run though the mill", anyone have any some light to share on this?

probably going to saw some of it green, don't have the space for all of
it to cure at once. I getting this from a co-worker, Tonight was the
first time I saw the tree, I got some of the branches they are over 1'
thick, the trunk is about 2 1/2' to 3' thick, I'm going to have to saw
it down to get it to fit on the sawmill. Next I need to convince him to
let me help prune his cherry orchard, apple orchard, and some other
trees I think are peaches.

Richard

"Richard Clements" wrote in message
...
I read in a book that if you let timber "rest" and dry out they are more
stable after you saw them into lumber, my wife's Grandfather (who owns a
sawmill) and has lot more experience at this likes to saw green "easier
to run though the mill", anyone have any some light to share on this?

probably going to saw some of it green, don't have the space for all of
it to cure at once. I getting this from a co-worker, Tonight was the
first time I saw the tree, I got some of the branches they are over 1'
thick, the trunk is about 2 1/2' to 3' thick,[...]

Saw it green, stack and stick in a 'log pile' , seal or cleat the ends of
the boards and leave for a long time outside and under cover. This is a
highly technical subject - how you convert logs into useable timber - but
that is the simple system.

Tim w

On Wed, 06 Sep 2006 23:05:45 -0600, Richard Clements
wrote:

I read in a book that if you let timber "rest" and dry out they are more
stable after you saw them into lumber, my wife's Grandfather (who owns a
sawmill) and has lot more experience at this likes to saw green "easier
to run though the mill", anyone have any some light to share on this?

probably going to saw some of it green, don't have the space for all of
it to cure at once. I getting this from a co-worker, Tonight was the
first time I saw the tree, I got some of the branches they are over 1'
thick, the trunk is about 2 1/2' to 3' thick, I'm going to have to saw
it down to get it to fit on the sawmill. Next I need to convince him to
let me help prune his cherry orchard, apple orchard, and some other
trees I think are peaches.

Richard

sawing green is best for the mill because the moisture in the wood
helps cool and lubricate the blade. on a cicular mill this isnt as big
an issue as it is on a bandsaw mill. ya break more blades with dryed
lumber. you get more stable lumber and a little more usable wood
sawing dry logs but the cost for blades and wear and tear on the mill
voids any savings. at least thats what drand dad says and he has run a
mill for over 50 years.[ recently retired at age 89 ]

skeez

some types of wood will spoil in the log, others it's o.k. to have
around for a while. some woods will spalt if left in the log, adds to
color and character example hard maple or birch. for the most of it it's
best to keep the log wet. i've been exporting hardwood veneer logs for
over 20 years, quite commonly logs will be stored in water or under a
sprinkling system to keep them moist.
ross
www.highislandexport.com