The same hand has taken two slices from a chisel in the last year, both
times the wood has failed which allowed me to travel at high velocity
through my index finger knuckles.

Besides holdng EVERY little pare in a vice, I'm looking for a kevlar
glove which is not open knit (like most carving gloves) and for one
that is heavy enough to stop a pretty fast moving japanese chisel.

Alan

Don't know if it would work, but I use kevlar gloves for waterskiing.
The palms and inside finger grips are rough surface kevlar for a sure
grip on the handle. They might provide some protection provided that
you always hold the workpiece with your palm facing the tool edge.
they may also scratch the workpiece.

I'd have to say I would probably not do it the way you are doing it
(although I do not know what you are working on, and perhaps
hand-holding is the only way to control the cut on some fine carvings).
I like to just butt the end of a workpiece against a board clamped in
the vise as a stop for most chiseling. Makes for fast position
changes.

arw01 wrote:

I'm looking for a kevlar
glove which is not open knit (like most carving gloves) and for one
that is heavy enough to stop a pretty fast moving japanese chisel.

Kevlar won't stop chisels. Flexible Kevlar certainly won't - if you
_must_ have a glove that can do this, then you need scales of rigid
armour.

Aramid fibres are _much_ over-rated as protection against low energy
sharp objects like knives, owing to the basic mechanism by which they
work. Great for higher energies, but they're just not "strong" at this
scale.

I'm also suspicious of the need for such a glove anyway. Basic rules of
carving are that you don't leave body parts in the trajectory, not that
you armour up and stab yourself anyway.The loss of dexterity of such a
glove also increases the risk of a slip.

On 4 Sep 2006 04:24:15 -0700, "arw01"
wrote:

The same hand has taken two slices from a chisel in the last year, both
times the wood has failed which allowed me to travel at high velocity
through my index finger knuckles.

Besides holdng EVERY little pare in a vice, I'm looking for a kevlar
glove which is not open knit (like most carving gloves) and for one
that is heavy enough to stop a pretty fast moving japanese chisel.

Butchers chainmail glove might work, where as kevlar will not.

Mark
(sixoneeight) = 618

In article .com, "arw01" wrote:
The same hand has taken two slices from a chisel in the last year, both
times the wood has failed which allowed me to travel at high velocity
through my index finger knuckles.

Besides holdng EVERY little pare in a vice, I'm looking for a kevlar
glove which is not open knit (like most carving gloves) and for one
that is heavy enough to stop a pretty fast moving japanese chisel.

Instead of looking for armor that will stop a chisel, you need to learn to
keep your free hand out of its path. It took me only one stab wound (resulting
in four stitches) to learn that lesson -- apparently two isn't enough for you.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

Agreed.

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
...
Instead of looking for armor that will stop a chisel, you need to learn to
keep your free hand out of its path. It took me only one stab wound
(resulting
in four stitches) to learn that lesson -- apparently two isn't enough for
you.

On 4 Sep 2006 04:24:15 -0700, "arw01" wrote:

The same hand has taken two slices from a chisel in the last year, both
times the wood has failed which allowed me to travel at high velocity
through my index finger knuckles.

Besides holdng EVERY little pare in a vice, I'm looking for a kevlar
glove which is not open knit (like most carving gloves) and for one
that is heavy enough to stop a pretty fast moving japanese chisel.

Alan

Rather than armor, it seems you need to be repeating the mantra, "if it
slips where's it going to go?" as you use your tools and accomodate the
setup to assure that you are not in the path of that slip.



+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough

+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

arw01 (in ) said:

| The same hand has taken two slices from a chisel in the last year,
| both times the wood has failed which allowed me to travel at high
| velocity through my index finger knuckles.

Ouch!

| Besides holdng EVERY little pare in a vice, I'm looking for a kevlar
| glove which is not open knit (like most carving gloves) and for one
| that is heavy enough to stop a pretty fast moving japanese chisel.

Allen...

I suggest you re-think your safety strategy. It generally works out
best if you do not aim tools capable of inflicting harm at your body
parts. It really doesn't matter whether the tool is an axe, a nail
gun, or a chisel - stay out of the line of fire!

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto

Morris Dovey wrote:
arw01 (in ) said:

| The same hand has taken two slices from a chisel in the last year,
| both times the wood has failed which allowed me to travel at high
| velocity through my index finger knuckles.

Ouch!

| Besides holdng EVERY little pare in a vice, I'm looking for a kevlar
| glove which is not open knit (like most carving gloves) and for one
| that is heavy enough to stop a pretty fast moving japanese chisel.

Allen...

I suggest you re-think your safety strategy. It generally works out
best if you do not aim tools capable of inflicting harm at your body
parts. It really doesn't matter whether the tool is an axe, a nail
gun, or a chisel - stay out of the line of fire!

But it does matter which body part is in the flight path. The options
start at simply bad and move up rather rapidly to gruesomely bad and
can-we-please-change-the-subject bad.

I think you should rethink vise and/or your tool selection. You could
easily rig up a bench top clamp that is foot-operated similar to a
deadhead on a drawknife bench. You also might be better off with a
carving knife, or holding the chisel more like a carving knife, and use
the appropriate carving motion where the blade really can't get to
skin.

R

, and use
the appropriate carving motion where the blade really can't get to
skin.

My 12-year old was slicing a bagel whilst holding it with her thumb
through the bagel's hole... using my finely honed Wusthof chef's knife.

The chair I was sitting on, flew back with great velocity as I got up
to try to stop this pending bloodbath. Nothing happened.
"Daaaad... I'm not stupid" was the last thing out of her mouth for the
rest of the weekend.

I MAY have overreacted..a little....but....it is unlikely she'll do
that again.

*still shaking my head*

r

, and use
the appropriate carving motion where the blade really can't get to
skin.

My 12-year old was slicing a bagel whilst holding it with her thumb
through the bagel's hole... using my finely honed Wusthof chef's knife.

The chair I was sitting on, flew back with great velocity as I got up
to try to stop this pending bloodbath. Nothing happened.
"Daaaad... I'm not stupid" was the last thing out of her mouth for the
rest of the weekend.

I MAY have overreacted..a little....but....it is unlikely she'll do
that again.

*still shaking my head*

r

you cannot be expecting a seriousanswer, but if you get one, call the
girl and start a Canasta club or something

On 4 Sep 2006 19:36:49 -0700, "Robatoy"
wrote:

, and use
the appropriate carving motion where the blade really can't get to
skin.

My 12-year old was slicing a bagel whilst holding it with her thumb
through the bagel's hole... using my finely honed Wusthof chef's knife.

The chair I was sitting on, flew back with great velocity as I got up
to try to stop this pending bloodbath. Nothing happened.
"Daaaad... I'm not stupid" was the last thing out of her mouth for the
rest of the weekend.

I MAY have overreacted..a little....but....it is unlikely she'll do
that again.

*still shaking my head*

OMG

I assume that you showed her what a Wusthof would do to a weiner
(a'la SawStop)

"arw01" wrote in message
oups.com...
The same hand has taken two slices from a chisel in the last year, both
times the wood has failed which allowed me to travel at high velocity
through my index finger knuckles.

Besides holdng EVERY little pare in a vice, I'm looking for a kevlar
glove which is not open knit (like most carving gloves) and for one
that is heavy enough to stop a pretty fast moving japanese chisel.

Alan


Many police officers use Hellstorm Kevlar gloves for protection against
knives. With these gloves you can actually grab the blade of a knife and rip
it out of an assailants hand. I imagine it would provide plenty of
protection against a chisel cutting you, but of course it wouldn't stop any
blunt force trauma you might receive.

http://www.airsoftarms.com/viewprodu...php?ProdID=750

HTH

arw01 wrote:
The same hand has taken two slices from a chisel in the last year, both
times the wood has failed which allowed me to travel at high velocity
through my index finger knuckles.

Besides holdng EVERY little pare in a vice, I'm looking for a kevlar
glove which is not open knit (like most carving gloves) and for one
that is heavy enough to stop a pretty fast moving japanese chisel.

Alan

I've met a lot of old wreckers still in possession of 10 fingers and
they never wore gloves. Wonder what they knew that you don't?

FoggyTown

I've met a lot of old wreckers still in possession of 10 fingers and
they never wore gloves. Wonder what they knew that you don't?

FoggyTown

Mebbe they started out with 12?

B.

check out a fish filletting glove, available at most good size sporting
goods stores.
ross