Thinking about getting one. Read everything on their website but we
all know they are not going to point out any negatives. Would like to
hear for users. Thanks.

Joe

Price


"Joe Bleau" wrote in message
...
Thinking about getting one. Read everything on their website but we
all know they are not going to point out any negatives. Would like to
hear for users. Thanks.

Joe

On Fri, 21 Jul 2006 21:22:47 -0400, Joe Bleau wrote:
Thinking about getting one. Read everything on their website but we
all know they are not going to point out any negatives. Would like to
hear for users. Thanks.

Joe

Far too complicated. I bought mine about 4 years ago. I tried it a
little to start with, but haven't touched it for over 3 years.
Plus since operations take place underneath the router, you can't
see what's happening.

Pete

--
.................................................. .........................
.. never trust a man who, when left alone ...... Pete Lynch .
.. in a room with a tea cosy ...... Marlow, England .
.. doesn't try it on (Billy Connolly) .....................................

On Sat, 22 Jul 2006 09:27:27 GMT, Peter Lynch
wrote:

On Fri, 21 Jul 2006 21:22:47 -0400, Joe Bleau wrote:
Thinking about getting one. Read everything on their website but we
all know they are not going to point out any negatives. Would like to
hear for users. Thanks.

Joe

Far too complicated. I bought mine about 4 years ago. I tried it a
little to start with, but haven't touched it for over 3 years.
Plus since operations take place underneath the router, you can't
see what's happening.

I was close to buying one a while back. I had the chance to use one to
try it out and the above -cannot see whats happening - is exactly why
I did not buy.

Pete

On Sat, 22 Jul 2006 05:59:56 -0400, Joe Bemier wrote:
On Sat, 22 Jul 2006 09:27:27 GMT, Peter Lynch
wrote:

On Fri, 21 Jul 2006 21:22:47 -0400, Joe Bleau wrote:
Thinking about getting one. Read everything on their website but we
all know they are not going to point out any negatives. Would like to
hear for users. Thanks.

Joe

Far too complicated. I bought mine about 4 years ago. I tried it a
little to start with, but haven't touched it for over 3 years.
Plus since operations take place underneath the router, you can't
see what's happening.

I was close to buying one a while back. I had the chance to use one to
try it out and the above -cannot see whats happening - is exactly why
I did not buy.

Pete


Oh yes, one more thing came to mind: you have to attach it to a wall.
This should be fairly substantial (not plasterboard/drywall). I found
that plugs were not sufficient - the unit pulled loose as it's quite
heavy when loaded with a BIG router. In the end I drilled right through
and used threaded rod, which was secured on the outside with nuts and
washers. Kinda makes it difficult to move around the shop.

Pete

--
.................................................. .........................
.. never trust a man who, when left alone ...... Pete Lynch .
.. in a room with a tea cosy ...... Marlow, England .
.. doesn't try it on (Billy Connolly) .....................................

On Fri, 21 Jul 2006 21:22:47 -0400, Joe Bleau wrote:

Thinking about getting one. Read everything on their website but we
all know they are not going to point out any negatives. Would like to
hear for users. Thanks.

Joe

I bought one about 3-4 months ago at a WW show, and I've used it so far to make
dovetails, sliding dovetails, M&T joints and box joints, and it does all of
these things well. I don't use it as a substitute for a router table, however.
I find the table much better for things like rounding over an edge,
panel-raising and making rail-and-stile doors. I consider the WoodRat a joinery
machine.

What's bad about it? Well, the manual, for one thing. It's hard to understand
and leaves out lots of important little details. I think it was written by the
tool's inventor, and he suffers from being too familiar with it so he can read
between the lines and find information that isn't there. But you can't, and
you'll find it quite frustrating.

Learning to use the WoodRat takes a while. If you expect to take it out of the
box and start making furniture the next day, you'll be disappointed. It takes a
fair amount of head-scratching, practice and reading and re-reading of the
!$#&*! manual to figure out how to do anything the first time. But eventually,
you'll get to understand how it all works and when you need to do something new,
you'll know how to do it, in your own way, without the manual.

I've never found it a problem that the wood is below the base. In fact, you
have more visibility into what's going on at the point of the cut with the
WoodRat than you do with a router table. And as far as mounting it on the wall,
well I agree you shouldn't even think about using drywall plugs or even mollys.
I have mine lag-screwed into the studs of a basement wall. It's had a dedicated
Hitachi M12V sitting on it for the last 3 months, and it doesn't show any sign
that it's going anywhere.

All in all, I have no regrets, and knowing what I know, I'd buy it again. Feel
free to post or e-mail questions if you have any.

To reply by e-mail, use jcarlson631 at yahoo dot com

John

"John" wrote in message
...
On Fri, 21 Jul 2006 21:22:47 -0400, Joe Bleau wrote:

Thinking about getting one. Read everything on their website but we
all know they are not going to point out any negatives. Would like to
hear for users. Thanks.

Joe

I bought one about 3-4 months ago at a WW show, and I've used it so far to
make
dovetails, sliding dovetails, M&T joints and box joints, and it does all
of
these things well. I don't use it as a substitute for a router table,
however.
I find the table much better for things like rounding over an edge,
panel-raising and making rail-and-stile doors. I consider the WoodRat a
joinery
machine.

What's bad about it? Well, the manual, for one thing. It's hard to
understand
and leaves out lots of important little details. I think it was written
by the
tool's inventor, and he suffers from being too familiar with it so he can
read
between the lines and find information that isn't there. But you can't,
and
you'll find it quite frustrating.

Learning to use the WoodRat takes a while. If you expect to take it out
of the
box and start making furniture the next day, you'll be disappointed. It
takes a
fair amount of head-scratching, practice and reading and re-reading of the
!$#&*! manual to figure out how to do anything the first time. But
eventually,
you'll get to understand how it all works and when you need to do
something new,
you'll know how to do it, in your own way, without the manual.

I've never found it a problem that the wood is below the base. In fact,
you
have more visibility into what's going on at the point of the cut with the
WoodRat than you do with a router table. And as far as mounting it on the
wall,
well I agree you shouldn't even think about using drywall plugs or even
mollys.
I have mine lag-screwed into the studs of a basement wall. It's had a
dedicated
Hitachi M12V sitting on it for the last 3 months, and it doesn't show any
sign
that it's going anywhere.

All in all, I have no regrets, and knowing what I know, I'd buy it again.
Feel
free to post or e-mail questions if you have any.

To reply by e-mail, use jcarlson631 at yahoo dot com

John

as any one tried out the Trend M @ T jig? I have one coming from Rockler fot
$299 minus minus 15% = 254.15 total price
$12 s&h.

Tom wrote:


Has any one tried out the Trend M @ T jig? I have one coming from Rockler fot
$299 minus minus 15% = 254.15 total price
$12 s&h.

Yes.

Does that price include the set of brass guides and their router
bits?

http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/...endMTjig1.html

You might want to call TREND USA and order another clamp or two.
It's
a PITA to have to move one back and forth when you switch from
horizontal to vertical mode.

NOTE: THERE'S AN ORANGE PLASTIC TIP FOR THE CLAMP IN THE MIDDLE
OF THE OPENING UNDER THE TABLE. DO NOT - REPEAT - DO NOT
LOSE THAT SUCKER! WITH IT ON THE END OF THE IDENTIFIED CLAMP,
IT WILL KEEP THE PART YOU'RE CUTTING A MORTISE IN FROM GETTING
PULLED/PUSHED INTO THE OPENING IN QUESTION. (this will make a lot
more sense once you have the jig in hand and try cutting a mortise
1/4" in from the end of the part)

The theory of this jig is great - the execution - well there needs
to be
some tightening up of the specs and QC - but they're working on
it.
See the "Nominal" vs "Actual" for the three critical dimensions of
the
components

http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/...endMTjig3.html

When you get yours, check the distance between the front and back
"plates" on the top of the jig, under which the stops slide.
There are
two nuts under the top of the jig which secure the front (closest
to
you when using the jig) plate. There's some slop in the hole so
you can
move the front plate a little to get it to
a) parallel the rear plate
b) set the distance between the front and read plate to match the
nominal 2 1/8th inch diameter guide.

As for cutting tenons with this system - I'd skip it and use it to
do loose tenon mortise and tenons. MUCH easier / simpler and, if
you use a stronger wood, or baltic birch ply, for the loose tenons
will produce a stronger joint.

If you stick with cutting just mortises the "nominal vs real"
issue
isn't an issue. And forget their bits. Get a 1/4, 1/2 and maybe
a 3/8 inch upcut spiral bit - Onsrud preferably and you've got
most
of the bases covered.

NOTE: There are plenty of parts to keep track of so get out your
forstner bits and router to make something to corral them.

One last thing. The ends of the half round "stops" can, if the
distance between the front and back guide plates are off by
much or out of parallel - stick into the opening the 2 1/8" guide
is to travel in. If they do, it'll put a "bump" on the edges of
the
mortise and make fitting the tenon a semi - PITA.

Just did three bonsai tables using loose tenon M&T joints - all
cut with this jig. Am working on another one now - 16 tenons,
32 mortises per table

http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/...aiStands1.html

If you've got more questions - my e-mail address is real.

charlie b

Thanks for the info Charlie. I printed your posting off and saved it to my
other hard drive.


"charlie b" wrote in message
...
Tom wrote:


Has any one tried out the Trend M @ T jig? I have one coming from Rockler
fot
$299 minus minus 15% = 254.15 total price
$12 s&h.

Yes.

Does that price include the set of brass guides and their router
bits?

http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/...endMTjig1.html

You might want to call TREND USA and order another clamp or two.
It's
a PITA to have to move one back and forth when you switch from
horizontal to vertical mode.

NOTE: THERE'S AN ORANGE PLASTIC TIP FOR THE CLAMP IN THE MIDDLE
OF THE OPENING UNDER THE TABLE. DO NOT - REPEAT - DO NOT
LOSE THAT SUCKER! WITH IT ON THE END OF THE IDENTIFIED CLAMP,
IT WILL KEEP THE PART YOU'RE CUTTING A MORTISE IN FROM GETTING
PULLED/PUSHED INTO THE OPENING IN QUESTION. (this will make a lot
more sense once you have the jig in hand and try cutting a mortise
1/4" in from the end of the part)

The theory of this jig is great - the execution - well there needs
to be
some tightening up of the specs and QC - but they're working on
it.
See the "Nominal" vs "Actual" for the three critical dimensions of
the
components

http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/...endMTjig3.html

When you get yours, check the distance between the front and back
"plates" on the top of the jig, under which the stops slide.
There are
two nuts under the top of the jig which secure the front (closest
to
you when using the jig) plate. There's some slop in the hole so
you can
move the front plate a little to get it to
a) parallel the rear plate
b) set the distance between the front and read plate to match the
nominal 2 1/8th inch diameter guide.

As for cutting tenons with this system - I'd skip it and use it to
do loose tenon mortise and tenons. MUCH easier / simpler and, if
you use a stronger wood, or baltic birch ply, for the loose tenons
will produce a stronger joint.

If you stick with cutting just mortises the "nominal vs real"
issue
isn't an issue. And forget their bits. Get a 1/4, 1/2 and maybe
a 3/8 inch upcut spiral bit - Onsrud preferably and you've got
most
of the bases covered.

NOTE: There are plenty of parts to keep track of so get out your
forstner bits and router to make something to corral them.

One last thing. The ends of the half round "stops" can, if the
distance between the front and back guide plates are off by
much or out of parallel - stick into the opening the 2 1/8" guide
is to travel in. If they do, it'll put a "bump" on the edges of
the
mortise and make fitting the tenon a semi - PITA.

Just did three bonsai tables using loose tenon M&T joints - all
cut with this jig. Am working on another one now - 16 tenons,
32 mortises per table

http://home.comcast.net/~charliebcz/...aiStands1.html

If you've got more questions - my e-mail address is real.

charlie b