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#1
Posted to rec.woodworking
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What would you do?
Other than going out and buying an 8" jointer, how would you surface plane a
7" piece of rough sawn cherry on a 6 1/8" jointer? I really don't want to have to rip it, face it, joint it, then glue it back together. Also, it's just one board and I don't have a hand plane, and don't really want one. Would that 7/8" effect anything when I turned it and ran it through the second time? I know this is probably a lame question, but it's a good looking piece of wood, and I don't want to screw it up. Everything else I've done has been narrow enough to fit ok. TIA |
#2
Posted to rec.woodworking
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What would you do?
"Tim Taylor" wrote in message m... Other than going out and buying an 8" jointer, how would you surface plane a 7" piece of rough sawn cherry on a 6 1/8" jointer? I really don't want to have to rip it, face it, joint it, then glue it back together. Also, it's just one board and I don't have a hand plane, and don't really want one. Would that 7/8" effect anything when I turned it and ran it through the second time? I know this is probably a lame question, but it's a good looking piece of wood, and I don't want to screw it up. Everything else I've done has been narrow enough to fit ok. TIA The 7/8"? I doubt you would be able to get the board past the guard. Straighten the board on a TS riding on a jig. You may end up with a board that will fit your jointer after trimming the edges. If you were able to run the 7" wide board through the jointer and then flipped it to work the 7/8" piece, you will have to keep the rest of the 6 1/8" of the board off the table surface, not likely to happen. I would rip it, flatten it, straighten the 2 mating edges and glue it back together. |
#3
Posted to rec.woodworking
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What would you do?
Tim Taylor wrote: Other than going out and buying an 8" jointer, how would you surface plane a 7" piece of rough sawn cherry on a 6 1/8" jointer? I really don't want to have to rip it, face it, joint it, then glue it back together. Also, it's just one board and I don't have a hand plane, and don't really want one. Would that 7/8" effect anything when I turned it and ran it through the second time? I know this is probably a lame question, but it's a good looking piece of wood, and I don't want to screw it up. Everything else I've done has been narrow enough to fit ok. TIA You could build a sled for you planer and run it through. FWW had a nice article on how to build the sled. Another method is to make a small rabbit on both edges, large enough to leave 6" or less in the middle. then take off the guard and the fence of you jointer and run this 6" middle section until it is flat, then using this flat as a reference run it through your planer until the opposite side is good, then flip the board and plane until the rabbits disappear. Another way is to check with any local woodworking shops and see if they'd let you buy time on one of their machines. You may also want to rethink not wanting a handplane. Often using handtools in conjunction with your power tools is the quickest and most efficient manner of working. But be forewarned if you do get the handplane it might be the first step into neanderdom. |
#4
Posted to rec.woodworking
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What would you do?
"Tim Taylor" wrote in message m... Other than going out and buying an 8" jointer, how would you surface plane a 7" piece of rough sawn cherry on a 6 1/8" jointer? I really don't want to have to rip it, face it, joint it, then glue it back together. Also, it's just one board and I don't have a hand plane, and don't really want one. Would that 7/8" effect anything when I turned it and ran it through the second time? I know this is probably a lame question, but it's a good looking piece of wood, and I don't want to screw it up. Everything else I've done has been narrow enough to fit ok. TIA I put nearly all my rough cut lumber through the planer without first face planing them on the jointer. The exceptions would those that are badly twisted or bowed, or those that must be perfect for dovetailing or whatever. The place I buy my lumber puts out a pretty flat product. Don't know enough about your board to say if it fits that or not. |
#5
Posted to rec.woodworking
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What would you do?
You could build a sled for you planer and run it through. FWW had a
nice article on how to build the sled. Another method is to make a small rabbit on both edges, large enough to leave 6" or less in the middle. then take off the guard and the fence of you jointer and run this 6" middle section until it is flat, then using this flat as a reference run it through your planer until the opposite side is good, then flip the board and plane until the rabbits disappear. I'm pretty new at this, but the sled for the planer seems like a great idea. What would I've purchased has more often than not been bigger than my 6" jointer. And even had I purchased that fancy 8" jointer, I've already encountered 9" wood that wouldnt fit that. I would hazard guess that almost all home woodworkers are without a jointer large enough for all their needs. My planer on the other hand is 13.5" wide and would probably cover 90% of my needs. It also feels alot safer than my jointer when running full faces of wood. I really want to try this jig out and see how well it works. |
#6
Posted to rec.woodworking
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What would you do?
Tim Taylor wrote:
Other than going out and buying an 8" jointer, how would you surface plane a 7" piece of rough sawn cherry on a 6 1/8" jointer? I really don't want to have to rip it, face it, joint it, then glue it back together. Also, it's just one board and I don't have a hand plane, and don't really want one. Would that 7/8" effect anything when I turned it and ran it through the second time? I know this is probably a lame question, but it's a good looking piece of wood, and I don't want to screw it up. Everything else I've done has been narrow enough to fit ok. TIA Make friends with someone with an 8" jointer or farm out to a shop that has one. Where are you located? Inviato da X-Privat.Org - Registrazione gratuita http://www.x-privat.org/join.php |
#7
Posted to rec.woodworking
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What would you do?
Tim Taylor wrote: Other than going out and buying an 8" jointer, how would you surface plane a 7" piece of rough sawn cherry on a 6 1/8" jointer? I really don't want to have to rip it, face it, joint it, then glue it back together. Also, it's just one board and I don't have a hand plane, and don't really want one. Would that 7/8" effect anything when I turned it and ran it through the second time? I know this is probably a lame question, but it's a good looking piece of wood, and I don't want to screw it up. Everything else I've done has been narrow enough to fit ok. TIA Sandah, straightedge, chalk. |
#8
Posted to rec.woodworking
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What would you do?
Tim Taylor wrote: Other than going out and buying an 8" jointer, how would you surface plane a 7" piece of rough sawn cherry on a 6 1/8" jointer? I really don't want to have to rip it, face it, joint it, then glue it back together. Also, it's just one board and I don't have a hand plane, and don't really want one. Would that 7/8" effect anything when I turned it and ran it through the second time? I know this is probably a lame question, but it's a good looking piece of wood, and I don't want to screw it up. Everything else I've done has been narrow enough to fit ok. TIA My shop time is very limited. I seldom take the time to use the jointer to flatten the face of the board anymore. Most boards can be run through the planer only and be flat enough. If you're board is reasonably flat, just put it through the planer only. I save the boards that need the jointer (bad cup, twist, etc) for when I need small pieces and then joint them. When I first started, I foolishly spent a lot of time trying to flatten a 6-8 foot long board all at once (when I had other boards on the pile I could've used). |
#9
Posted to rec.woodworking
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What would you do?
"Tim Taylor" wrote in message m... Other than going out and buying an 8" jointer, how would you surface plane a 7" piece of rough sawn cherry on a 6 1/8" jointer? I really don't want to have to rip it, face it, joint it, then glue it back together. Also, it's just one board and I don't have a hand plane, and don't really want one. Would that 7/8" effect anything when I turned it and ran it through the second time? I know this is probably a lame question, but it's a good looking piece of wood, and I don't want to screw it up. Everything else I've done has been narrow enough to fit ok. TIA See http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?sku=7 or Ask a friend, where do you live? Dave Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services ---------------------------------------------------------- ** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY ** ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.usenet.com |
#10
Posted to rec.woodworking
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What would you do?
Other than going out and buying an 8" jointer, how would you surface plane a 7" piece of rough sawn cherry on a 6 1/8" jointer?
Kelly Mehler's suggestion: Use a scrub plane. You can knock down the high spots until it's reasonably flat. Then run the board, scrubbed side down, through the thickness planer. That will give you a flat, level surface ---- and go from there. |
#11
Posted to rec.woodworking
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What would you do?
"Leon" wrote in message .com... "Tim Taylor" wrote in message m... Other than going out and buying an 8" jointer, how would you surface plane a 7" piece of rough sawn cherry on a 6 1/8" jointer? I really don't want to have to rip it, face it, joint it, then glue it back together. Also, it's just one board and I don't have a hand plane, and don't really want one. Would that 7/8" effect anything when I turned it and ran it through the second time? I know this is probably a lame question, but it's a good looking piece of wood, and I don't want to screw it up. Everything else I've done has been narrow enough to fit ok. TIA The 7/8"? I doubt you would be able to get the board past the guard. Straighten the board on a TS riding on a jig. You may end up with a board that will fit your jointer after trimming the edges. If you were able to run the 7" wide board through the jointer and then flipped it to work the 7/8" piece, you will have to keep the rest of the 6 1/8" of the board off the table surface, not likely to happen. I would rip it, flatten it, straighten the 2 mating edges and glue it back together. Thanks Leon. I didn't think my idea would work. Guess I just wanted somebody else to confirm it. |
#12
Posted to rec.woodworking
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What would you do?
"brandom11" wrote in message ups.com... Tim Taylor wrote: Other than going out and buying an 8" jointer, how would you surface plane a 7" piece of rough sawn cherry on a 6 1/8" jointer? I really don't want to have to rip it, face it, joint it, then glue it back together. Also, it's just one board and I don't have a hand plane, and don't really want one. Would that 7/8" effect anything when I turned it and ran it through the second time? I know this is probably a lame question, but it's a good looking piece of wood, and I don't want to screw it up. Everything else I've done has been narrow enough to fit ok. TIA You could build a sled for you planer and run it through. FWW had a nice article on how to build the sled. Another method is to make a small rabbit on both edges, large enough to leave 6" or less in the middle. then take off the guard and the fence of you jointer and run this 6" middle section until it is flat, then using this flat as a reference run it through your planer until the opposite side is good, then flip the board and plane until the rabbits disappear. Another way is to check with any local woodworking shops and see if they'd let you buy time on one of their machines. You may also want to rethink not wanting a handplane. Often using handtools in conjunction with your power tools is the quickest and most efficient manner of working. But be forewarned if you do get the handplane it might be the first step into neanderdom. Thanks brandom. With my screwed up schedule, it's really hard for me to figure out when breakfast is compared to supper, much less be around to get to a shop that would have one. Nice suggestion though. Uhhhh I aint real sure about this whole neander way of life. It good for those who like it, and I got nothing against it. I just like my machines. |
#13
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What would you do?
"Toller" wrote in message ... "Tim Taylor" wrote in message m... Other than going out and buying an 8" jointer, how would you surface plane a 7" piece of rough sawn cherry on a 6 1/8" jointer? I really don't want to have to rip it, face it, joint it, then glue it back together. Also, it's just one board and I don't have a hand plane, and don't really want one. Would that 7/8" effect anything when I turned it and ran it through the second time? I know this is probably a lame question, but it's a good looking piece of wood, and I don't want to screw it up. Everything else I've done has been narrow enough to fit ok. TIA I put nearly all my rough cut lumber through the planer without first face planing them on the jointer. The exceptions would those that are badly twisted or bowed, or those that must be perfect for dovetailing or whatever. The place I buy my lumber puts out a pretty flat product. Don't know enough about your board to say if it fits that or not. Toller, the majority of my stuff is pretty flat too and I do the same thing, run it through the planer and go on with it. But this piece is just a might cupped to do that I'm thinking. |
#14
Posted to rec.woodworking
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What would you do?
"No" wrote in message ... Tim Taylor wrote: Other than going out and buying an 8" jointer, how would you surface plane a 7" piece of rough sawn cherry on a 6 1/8" jointer? I really don't want to have to rip it, face it, joint it, then glue it back together. Also, it's just one board and I don't have a hand plane, and don't really want one. Would that 7/8" effect anything when I turned it and ran it through the second time? I know this is probably a lame question, but it's a good looking piece of wood, and I don't want to screw it up. Everything else I've done has been narrow enough to fit ok. TIA Make friends with someone with an 8" jointer or farm out to a shop that has one. Where are you located? Inviato da X-Privat.Org - Registrazione gratuita http://www.x-privat.org/join.php Well that's a thought. I might put an ad in the paper to see if anybody with a killer shop needs a buddy! :-) Seriously though, I know they're out there, the big machines that is, but it's just finding them. Normally guys come to me wanting to use my machines cause their Craftsman whatever just won't do the job. BTW I'm in Ky. |
#15
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What would you do?
"bf" wrote in message ups.com... Tim Taylor wrote: Other than going out and buying an 8" jointer, how would you surface plane a 7" piece of rough sawn cherry on a 6 1/8" jointer? I really don't want to have to rip it, face it, joint it, then glue it back together. Also, it's just one board and I don't have a hand plane, and don't really want one. Would that 7/8" effect anything when I turned it and ran it through the second time? I know this is probably a lame question, but it's a good looking piece of wood, and I don't want to screw it up. Everything else I've done has been narrow enough to fit ok. TIA My shop time is very limited. I seldom take the time to use the jointer to flatten the face of the board anymore. Most boards can be run through the planer only and be flat enough. If you're board is reasonably flat, just put it through the planer only. I save the boards that need the jointer (bad cup, twist, etc) for when I need small pieces and then joint them. When I first started, I foolishly spent a lot of time trying to flatten a 6-8 foot long board all at once (when I had other boards on the pile I could've used). I understand the time thing, believe me!!! Well like I told toller, it's a pretty special piece and I think it's cupped a might much to just plane it. |
#16
Posted to rec.woodworking
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What would you do?
"Teamcasa" wrote in message ... "Tim Taylor" wrote in message m... Other than going out and buying an 8" jointer, how would you surface plane a 7" piece of rough sawn cherry on a 6 1/8" jointer? I really don't want to have to rip it, face it, joint it, then glue it back together. Also, it's just one board and I don't have a hand plane, and don't really want one. Would that 7/8" effect anything when I turned it and ran it through the second time? I know this is probably a lame question, but it's a good looking piece of wood, and I don't want to screw it up. Everything else I've done has been narrow enough to fit ok. TIA See http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?sku=7 or Ask a friend, where do you live? Dave Posted Via Usenet.com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services ---------------------------------------------------------- ** SPEED ** RETENTION ** COMPLETION ** ANONYMITY ** ---------------------------------------------------------- http://www.usenet.com Dave, that's sure a pretty tool, but where's the cord? How do you turn it on??? LOL Seriously, if I started with one hand tool, I'd probably have to have another, then another. Like an addict you know. I "had" thought about it though, but never inhaled! :-) I'm in Ky. |
#17
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What would you do?
"FriscoSoxFan" wrote in message oups.com... Tim Taylor wrote: Other than going out and buying an 8" jointer, how would you surface plane a 7" piece of rough sawn cherry on a 6 1/8" jointer? I really don't want to have to rip it, face it, joint it, then glue it back together. Also, it's just one board and I don't have a hand plane, and don't really want one. Would that 7/8" effect anything when I turned it and ran it through the second time? I know this is probably a lame question, but it's a good looking piece of wood, and I don't want to screw it up. Everything else I've done has been narrow enough to fit ok. TIA Sandah, straightedge, chalk. Hmmmmmm, now why didn't I think of that one!! That's why I like this place, you guys are great! Sander I got, and it's got a cord, so that just might be doable. Thanks Frisco!! |
#18
Posted to rec.woodworking
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What would you do?
"Tim Taylor" wrote in message m... "Toller" wrote in message ... "Tim Taylor" wrote in message m... Other than going out and buying an 8" jointer, how would you surface plane a 7" piece of rough sawn cherry on a 6 1/8" jointer? I really don't want to have to rip it, face it, joint it, then glue it back together. Also, it's just one board and I don't have a hand plane, and don't really want one. Would that 7/8" effect anything when I turned it and ran it through the second time? I know this is probably a lame question, but it's a good looking piece of wood, and I don't want to screw it up. Everything else I've done has been narrow enough to fit ok. TIA I put nearly all my rough cut lumber through the planer without first face planing them on the jointer. The exceptions would those that are badly twisted or bowed, or those that must be perfect for dovetailing or whatever. The place I buy my lumber puts out a pretty flat product. Don't know enough about your board to say if it fits that or not. Toller, the majority of my stuff is pretty flat too and I do the same thing, run it through the planer and go on with it. But this piece is just a might cupped to do that I'm thinking. If you have a planer, and the board is cupped badly, make a sled, and attach the cupped piece to the sled, plane and flatten one side, remove from sled and flip it over then plane the other side. Dave |
#19
Posted to rec.woodworking
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What would you do?
"Tim Taylor" Other than going out and buying an 8" jointer, how would you surface plane a 7" piece of rough sawn cherry on a 6 1/8" jointer? snip Also, it's just one board and I don't have a hand plane, and don't really want one. "Teamcasa" See http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?sku=7 or Ask a friend, where do you live? Dave Dave, that's sure a pretty tool, but where's the cord? How do you turn it on??? LOL Seriously, if I started with one hand tool, I'd probably have to have another, then another. Like an addict you know. I "had" thought about it though, but never inhaled! :-) I'm in Ky. I know how you feel. However, a hand plane is indispensable for a woodworker. I have all the power tools I need to build most anything and still find myself reaching for the plane all the time. But you are right - it is an addiction - and we are the support group and the enablers all in one easy to meet place! LOL Dave |
#20
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What would you do?
In article ,
Tim Taylor wrote: Other than going out and buying an 8" jointer, how would you surface plane a 7" piece of rough sawn cherry on a 6 1/8" jointer? I really don't want to have to rip it, face it, joint it, then glue it back together. Also, it's just one board and I don't have a hand plane, and don't really want one. Would that 7/8" effect anything when I turned it and ran it through the second time? I know this is probably a lame question, but it's a good looking piece of wood, and I don't want to screw it up. Everything else I've done has been narrow enough to fit ok. TIA Well I've read the replies but haven't seen the correct answer yet so I'll chime in: 1) Rabbet one edge of the board with the TS, jointer, or router. The rabbet should extend 1" along the face of the board, and be just a touch deeper than you expect to have to face joint off: ---------------------|___ | | -------------------------- 2) Face joint the protruding 6" width of the board on the jointer. You may need to remove the safety guard. 3) You now have a face jointed board, with a miniscule rabbet. Throw it on the planer to get the other side planar, then flip it over and feed it through the planer one more time to clean off the rabbet. Your board is now jointed, thicknessed, and coplanar. Kelly |
#21
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What would you do?
Kelly , that was essentially one of my solutions offered. I said to
take a rabbit off both sides though. ( because my jointer can only do a max width of 3/4 inch for the rabbit.) Keep in mind that this only works for boards just a bit wider than the jointer. After rereading his question and the responses, without a doubt the ONLY answer is GO BUY A NEW JOINTER!!! It's obvoius he was just looking for help with justification. Tim, go buy that new tool!!! Kelly E Jones wrote: In article , Tim Taylor wrote: Other than going out and buying an 8" jointer, how would you surface plane a 7" piece of rough sawn cherry on a 6 1/8" jointer? I really don't want to have to rip it, face it, joint it, then glue it back together. Also, it's just one board and I don't have a hand plane, and don't really want one. Would that 7/8" effect anything when I turned it and ran it through the second time? I know this is probably a lame question, but it's a good looking piece of wood, and I don't want to screw it up. Everything else I've done has been narrow enough to fit ok. TIA Well I've read the replies but haven't seen the correct answer yet so I'll chime in: 1) Rabbet one edge of the board with the TS, jointer, or router. The rabbet should extend 1" along the face of the board, and be just a touch deeper than you expect to have to face joint off: ---------------------|___ | | -------------------------- 2) Face joint the protruding 6" width of the board on the jointer. You may need to remove the safety guard. 3) You now have a face jointed board, with a miniscule rabbet. Throw it on the planer to get the other side planar, then flip it over and feed it through the planer one more time to clean off the rabbet. Your board is now jointed, thicknessed, and coplanar. Kelly |
#22
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What would you do?
Tim : wrote: Other than going out and buying an 8" jointer, how would you surface plane a 7" piece of rough sawn cherry on a 6 1/8" jointer? I really don't want to Another idea, that might work - a router sled? I've seen them described in a whole bunch of magazines. Good for flattening dining tables, bench tops, etc. Get it reasonable, then push it thru the planner. MJ Wallace |
#23
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What would you do?
Is it warped, twisted, cupped? You say that it is a nice looking board but
want to face joint it. Why? Unless it has an obvious problem, just plain it. "Tim Taylor" wrote in message m... Other than going out and buying an 8" jointer, how would you surface plane a 7" piece of rough sawn cherry on a 6 1/8" jointer? I really don't want to have to rip it, face it, joint it, then glue it back together. Also, it's just one board and I don't have a hand plane, and don't really want one. Would that 7/8" effect anything when I turned it and ran it through the second time? I know this is probably a lame question, but it's a good looking piece of wood, and I don't want to screw it up. Everything else I've done has been narrow enough to fit ok. TIA |
#24
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What would you do?
Kelly E Jones wrote: In article , Tim Taylor wrote: Other than going out and buying an 8" jointer, how would you surface plane a 7" piece of rough sawn cherry on a 6 1/8" jointer? I really don't want to have to rip it, face it, joint it, then glue it back together. Also, it's just one board and I don't have a hand plane, and don't really want one. Would that 7/8" effect anything when I turned it and ran it through the second time? I know this is probably a lame question, but it's a good looking piece of wood, and I don't want to screw it up. Everything else I've done has been narrow enough to fit ok. TIA Well I've read the replies but haven't seen the correct answer yet so I'll chime in: 1) Rabbet one edge of the board with the TS, jointer, or router. The rabbet should extend 1" along the face of the board, and be just a touch deeper than you expect to have to face joint off: ---------------------|___ | | -------------------------- 2) Face joint the protruding 6" width of the board on the jointer. You may need to remove the safety guard. 3) You now have a face jointed board, with a miniscule rabbet. Throw it on the planer to get the other side planar, then flip it over and feed it through the planer one more time to clean off the rabbet. Your board is now jointed, thicknessed, and coplanar. Kelly Thats awesome Kelly! I find that even here the useful signal - noise ratio is pretty poor. Its tips like this that make it all worthwhile. |
#25
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What would you do?
CW wrote: Is it warped, twisted, cupped? You say that it is a nice looking board but want to face joint it. Why? Unless it has an obvious problem, just plain it. "Tim Taylor" wrote in message m... Other than going out and buying an 8" jointer, how would you surface plane a 7" piece of rough sawn cherry on a 6 1/8" jointer? I really don't want to have to rip it, face it, joint it, then glue it back together. Also, it's just one board and I don't have a hand plane, and don't really want one. Would that 7/8" effect anything when I turned it and ran it through the second time? I know this is probably a lame question, but it's a good looking piece of wood, and I don't want to screw it up. Everything else I've done has been narrow enough to fit ok. TIA How can you "just plain it"? You'll get two sides that aren't paralell. |
#26
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What would you do?
Only if your planer is out of whack. Light passes on each side to clean up
then plane to thickness. Unless your board has serious cupping/warp, the jointer is not needed. "Frank" wrote in message oups.com... How can you "just plain it"? You'll get two sides that aren't paralell. |
#27
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What would you do?
"brandom11" wrote in message oups.com... Kelly , that was essentially one of my solutions offered. I said to take a rabbit off both sides though. ( because my jointer can only do a max width of 3/4 inch for the rabbit.) Keep in mind that this only works for boards just a bit wider than the jointer. After rereading his question and the responses, without a doubt the ONLY answer is GO BUY A NEW JOINTER!!! It's obvoius he was just looking for help with justification. Tim, go buy that new tool!!! Sheesh! Take off the high spots with the jointer to get a rough level. Half and half will even get you in the ballpark if you pay attention. As easy as trying to get a rabbet on a twisted piece of crap on the tablesaw. Can you say bind and kick? Of course you can. If it's just cup versus twist, slide the fence to make narrow and reduce either edge of the frown to take the pressure off the middle as you run it through the PLANER. That's where the money should go. |
#28
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What would you do?
"CW" wrote in message nk.net... Is it warped, twisted, cupped? You say that it is a nice looking board but want to face joint it. Why? Unless it has an obvious problem, just plain it. Yea it's got a bit of a cup in it, or should I say it had. I used the sander method yesterday. "Tim Taylor" wrote in message m... Other than going out and buying an 8" jointer, how would you surface plane a 7" piece of rough sawn cherry on a 6 1/8" jointer? I really don't want to have to rip it, face it, joint it, then glue it back together. Also, it's just one board and I don't have a hand plane, and don't really want one. Would that 7/8" effect anything when I turned it and ran it through the second time? I know this is probably a lame question, but it's a good looking piece of wood, and I don't want to screw it up. Everything else I've done has been narrow enough to fit ok. TIA |
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