I am working on my first project using my dovetail jig. I am using
1/2" baltic birch for the drawer parts and the facing plys keep
splintering off making for an ugly drawer part. Does anybody have an
idea to keep the faces in tact. I have a new bit in the router so I
don't think it's because it's dull. Would masking tape work?

Thanks

Coach wrote: I am working on my first project using my dovetail jig. I
am using
1/2" baltic birch for the drawer parts and the facing plys keep
splintering off making for an ugly drawer part. Does anybody have an
idea to keep the faces in tact. I have a new bit in the router so I
don't think it's because it's dull. Would masking tape work?


Do you have enough space to put
backerboards on either side of your workpiece? Maybe just a couple of
1/8th inch thick pieces of scrap will do the job. Tom

wrote:
I am working on my first project using my dovetail jig. I am using
1/2" baltic birch for the drawer parts and the facing plys keep
splintering off making for an ugly drawer part. Does anybody have an
idea to keep the faces in tact. I have a new bit in the router so I
don't think it's because it's dull. Would masking tape work?

Thanks
I don't know what kind of a jig you are using, but my D4 has a place
for a backer that is held firmly against the backside and then I
lightly climb route across the face before starting the tails . You
didn't say , but I'm going to guess that you are using half blind
dovetails it being a drawer. Those two steps eliminate almost 98% of
the splintering for me. If you have enough room in the clamps you
could do as the other poster suggested and sandwich your piece between
some 1/8th inch material. Depending on the jig and the type of
dovetails you are actually cutting you'll have to compensate for the
extra on the back side to make the joint fit right. Hope that helps.
bc

Might help but biscuits work better. Leave the dovetails for solid wood.

wrote in message
ups.com...
I am working on my first project using my dovetail jig. I am using
1/2" baltic birch for the drawer parts and the facing plys keep
splintering off making for an ugly drawer part. Does anybody have an
idea to keep the faces in tact. I have a new bit in the router so I
don't think it's because it's dull. Would masking tape work?

Thanks

wrote in message
ups.com...
I am working on my first project using my dovetail jig. I am using
1/2" baltic birch for the drawer parts and the facing plys keep
splintering off making for an ugly drawer part. Does anybody have an
idea to keep the faces in tact. I have a new bit in the router so I
don't think it's because it's dull. Would masking tape work?

Thanks


Cut across the front before proceeding between the fingers and or place a
scrap in front of the drawer piece to help prevent the tearout.

On 19 May 2006 13:24:36 -0700, wrote:

I am working on my first project using my dovetail jig. I am using
1/2" baltic birch for the drawer parts and the facing plys keep
splintering off making for an ugly drawer part. Does anybody have an
idea to keep the faces in tact. I have a new bit in the router so I
don't think it's because it's dull. Would masking tape work?

Thanks


Masking tape might work, but a backer board will solve this issue.

I think its pretty std, procedure and I got the advise here, I have just
used lock joints using my RT only on 3/4" birch (non-Baltic) ply fronts w/
1/2" ply sides/back, and was completely happy with the inners/visible I
created.



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Use a backer board behind the ply to help minimize this. Needs to be
clamped so it cannot move and it needs to butt up tightly against the
back of the ply

John

On 19 May 2006 13:24:36 -0700, wrote:

I am working on my first project using my dovetail jig. I am using
1/2" baltic birch for the drawer parts and the facing plys keep
splintering off making for an ugly drawer part. Does anybody have an
idea to keep the faces in tact. I have a new bit in the router so I
don't think it's because it's dull. Would masking tape work?

Thanks