Hi,

Is it problematic to finish vertical surfaces? I only have experience
with horizontal surfaces. I'm worried about streaks, unevenness at the
top vs at the bottom etc.


Thanks!


Aaron Fude.

wrote in message
ups.com...
Hi,

Is it problematic to finish vertical surfaces? I only have experience
with horizontal surfaces. I'm worried about streaks, unevenness at the
top vs at the bottom etc.

Millions of hanging doors are coated every year. Probably tens of millions
of lineal feet of wood trim are coated every year. I never had a problem
with it.

I've used regular and H2O based poly applied with foam and regular
brushes and with a T-shirt. Applied in all sorts of directions and
never had a problem.

Varnish on the other hand...

I have a knotty pine living roomand den that I coated. Works really
well. Use a really good brush and allow for the drying time.

After 40 years I finally realized that a $15 brush is well worth it

tom.

RayV wrote:
I've used regular and H2O based poly applied with foam and regular
brushes and with a T-shirt. Applied in all sorts of directions and
never had a problem.

Varnish on the other hand...

I am spraying water based poly on cabinets at the moment. I am using a
new (to me) spray gun for the job so put on too much in one place on the
1st coat, creating a sag. I let it dry, then took a scraper and smoothed
the sag, fine sanding on everything as always and the 2nd coat has gone
on well - luck or extra experience, not sure.

Light coats is the key, and knowing how to fix the problems,as always,
is essential.

Harvey

Hi,

Thanks for the responses.

By "light sanding" do mean both, fine grit (220? 320?) and minimial
pressure or just fine grit?

Thanks again!

Aaron Fude

wrote:
Hi,

Thanks for the responses.

By "light sanding" do mean both, fine grit (220? 320?) and minimial
pressure or just fine grit?

Thanks again!

Aaron Fude


Depends on what I am doing, but 220 works fine for the cabinet. For a
table I think I would go finer.

Yes, light sanding means fine grit, and just enough sanding to even the
surface,

Harvey

On Fri, 19 May 2006 12:00:44 -0400, eclipsme wrote:

RayV wrote:
I've used regular and H2O based poly applied with foam and regular
brushes and with a T-shirt. Applied in all sorts of directions and
never had a problem.

Varnish on the other hand...

I am spraying water based poly on cabinets at the moment. I am using a
new (to me) spray gun for the job so put on too much in one place on the
1st coat, creating a sag. I let it dry, then took a scraper and smoothed
the sag, fine sanding on everything as always and the 2nd coat has gone
on well - luck or extra experience, not sure.

Light coats is the key, and knowing how to fix the problems,as always,
is essential.

Harvey


You're lucky if you learned that lesson after the first time. Took me
several.

"If you think the coat is too light, it is probably just right".

Frank

Frank Boettcher wrote:
On Fri, 19 May 2006 12:00:44 -0400, eclipsme wrote:

RayV wrote:
I've used regular and H2O based poly applied with foam and regular
brushes and with a T-shirt. Applied in all sorts of directions and
never had a problem.

Varnish on the other hand...

I am spraying water based poly on cabinets at the moment. I am using a
new (to me) spray gun for the job so put on too much in one place on the
1st coat, creating a sag. I let it dry, then took a scraper and smoothed
the sag, fine sanding on everything as always and the 2nd coat has gone
on well - luck or extra experience, not sure.

Light coats is the key, and knowing how to fix the problems,as always,
is essential.

Harvey


You're lucky if you learned that lesson after the first time. Took me
several.

"If you think the coat is too light, it is probably just right".

Frank

Luck, as always. plays a certain part in my work.

I got 3 coats on the cabinets, but still wasn't happy with the face
frames and the drawers, so placed them so the surfaces were horizontal
and gave them a final coat. I think they came out well.

Harvey