Does anyone know of a "rule of thumb" about estimating hardwood
flooring that will be layed at a 45 degree angle? Normally I would by
10% or so extra to cover the waste, but I have no experience at this
angled idea. I don't want to have a lot of this stuff left over but
some for future repairs would be OK. We are talking about a snap
together laminate roughly 7" wide I believe.

TIA

Duane

"Duane Elliott" wrote in message
...
Does anyone know of a "rule of thumb" about estimating hardwood
flooring that will be layed at a 45 degree angle? Normally I would by
10% or so extra to cover the waste, but I have no experience at this
angled idea. I don't want to have a lot of this stuff left over but
some for future repairs would be OK. We are talking about a snap
together laminate roughly 7" wide I believe.

TIA

Duane

Let's just say I hope it's not more than 15%. I've got some flooring being
shipped to me that SWMBO wants laid at a 45. I drew it up in AutoCAD and
figured how many rows I had. You lose a 45 deg cut at each end of a row.
As a percentage of the floor area, it didn't add up to a whole lot.

In case anyone cares, I'm getting ready to put down about 550 sq ft of 5/8"
mesquite flooring. It will be glued down using Bostik Best urethane
adhesive. My cousin is in the mesquite wood business in south Texas and
acquired this material for me. I've put down 3/4" plank flooring and
laminate flooring, but I haven't done an application like this. This floor
should be the showpiece in our new addition (if I don't screw it up).

todd

In article ,
Duane Elliott wrote:
Does anyone know of a "rule of thumb" about estimating hardwood
flooring that will be layed at a 45 degree angle? Normally I would by
10% or so extra to cover the waste, but I have no experience at this
angled idea. I don't want to have a lot of this stuff left over but
some for future repairs would be OK. We are talking about a snap
together laminate roughly 7" wide I believe.

TIA

Duane

Start by measuring the diagonal of the room, at a 45 degree angle.
divide that by 7" to get the number of 'board widths' involved.

you'll need an extra 7" of length for every 'board width'.

*PLUS* whatever you normally allow to avoid using 'really short'
pieces.

figure in the 7"/'board width' first, then adjust up b the 'slack'
percentage.

"todd" wrote in message
In case anyone cares, I'm getting ready to put down about 550 sq ft of
5/8" mesquite flooring. It will be glued down using Bostik Best urethane
adhesive.

Post some pics when you are done.

Start by measuring the diagonal of the room, at a 45 degree angle.
divide that by 7" to get the number of 'board widths' involved.

you'll need an extra 7" of length for every 'board width'.


Which would come out to the length of the diagonal itself, since you're
dividing
it by 7" (board width) and then multiplying it by 7" (board width)..

Then double it since you're mitering and losing material on both ends.

Ron

You will lose some pieces that are just too short, however longer
pieces will fit the other side of the room and your miter will already
be cut for you. I did a job similar to the one you are working on, and
the general contractor only purchased 10% over the square footage. I
had to very carefully plan the layout as I went. I tried to layout the
lengths so that I cut my miters 1/3rd to 1/2 way of the length of
boards, this gave me a long enough cut length to piece into the other
side of the room. When I finished I had half a dozen lengths left
over. Good Luck

In article ,
Ron ronaldjangelATcomcastDOTnet wrote:


Start by measuring the diagonal of the room, at a 45 degree angle.
divide that by 7" to get the number of 'board widths' involved.

you'll need an extra 7" of length for every 'board width'.


Which would come out to the length of the diagonal itself, since you're
dividing
it by 7" (board width) and then multiplying it by 7" (board width)..

Sheesh! right you are on that. That's "too simple".