Im happy this morning to have used my new tennon head on my Robland X31
sliding table
I bought a second hand tennon head only one part and flipped the piece of
timber over to get the 2nd cut. I have a few questions you may be able to
help with

1. What is the best way to stop tearout on the back edge of the tennon.
(i've only been using a scrap piece of wood)
2. The Robland X31 has a slot mortisiser and creates round slots. Do I
make the square ends of the cut the tennon shorter and round over the ends
a bit to let it slip in? i.e is the gap top and bottom really a problem as
long as I have a tight fit side to side?

Cheers
Connor




--
%69%20%6c%6f%76%65%20%77%6f%6f%64%77%6f%72%6b%69%6 e%67%20%62%75%74%20%69%6d%20%63%72%61%70
http://www.connoraston.com

I would opt for rounding the tenon vs squaring the mortise, mainly because
its easier.

That Robland X31 is a intriguing contraption, never seen anything like it on
this side of the pond.

Nice web site Connor, nice gallery of work too.

I'd love to visit Ireland, I've heard it is beautiful there. I'm a Murphy on
my mother's side. I live in Tennessee, which has lots of natural beauty as
well. Lots of wood too.

Take care,

RangerPaul

--
Email replies to remove the "nospam_"
before you reply.

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/dream-designs


"Connor Aston" wrote in message
newsp.s8ctn3siqkab0d@dellman...
Im happy this morning to have used my new tennon head on my Robland X31
sliding table
I bought a second hand tennon head only one part and flipped the piece of
timber over to get the 2nd cut. I have a few questions you may be able to
help with

1. What is the best way to stop tearout on the back edge of the tennon.
(i've only been using a scrap piece of wood)
2. The Robland X31 has a slot mortisiser and creates round slots. Do I
make the square ends of the cut the tennon shorter and round over the ends
a bit to let it slip in? i.e is the gap top and bottom really a problem as
long as I have a tight fit side to side?

Cheers
Connor




--
%69%20%6c%6f%76%65%20%77%6f%6f%64%77%6f%72%6b%69%6 e%67%20%62%75%74%20%69%6d%20%63%72%61%70
http://www.connoraston.com

Connor Aston wrote:

Im happy this morning to have used my new tennon head on my Robland X31
sliding table
I bought a second hand tennon head only one part and flipped the piece of
timber over to get the 2nd cut. I have a few questions you may be able to
help with

1. What is the best way to stop tearout on the back edge of the tennon.
(i've only been using a scrap piece of wood)
2. The Robland X31 has a slot mortisiser and creates round slots. Do I
make the square ends of the cut the tennon shorter and round over the ends
a bit to let it slip in? i.e is the gap top and bottom really a problem as
long as I have a tight fit side to side?

Cheers
Connor


Why cut tenons when you can use the X31 horizontal mortiser
to cut mortises in both parts and use a loose tenon. No adding
tenon lengths to the tenon parts, no shoulders to get right and
no tear/split out to worry about.

Check out Gerald Masgai's pages on making a four panel door
using loose tenons - done on an X31. Click on "continue" at
the bottom of each page to get to the next page. You have
an X31 - here's a project that uses all five functions.

http://www.geocities.com/PicketFence...op/page16.html

charlie b

BTW - have you used the bullet catch strike plates for a zero
clearance throat plate for the table saw?