I have tried glue, shellac, and varnish. Shellac seems best, but it still
isn't right.
I just read that hide glue is the right material. Because it is all
protein, it takes finishs almost the same as wood.
Anyone tried it?

How about liquid hide glue... is that a decent product?

I have used hide glue and sawdust from the project for filler for
years, but you do have to go to the trouble of making hot glue. Liquid
hide glue is next to worthless. Also, learn how to use shellac sticks
and a burn-in knife. It is an art well worth learning.
Bugs

Bugs wrote:

I have used hide glue and sawdust from the project for filler for
years, but you do have to go to the trouble of making hot glue. Liquid
hide glue is next to worthless.

Interesting. I've used liquid hide glue on several projects and never
had any problems. Yes, it's weaker than heated hide glue, but nowhere
near the "useless" range. I did look up the numbers at one time, but I
don't have them now - DAGS.

--
It's turtles, all the way down

Bugs wrote:
I have used hide glue and sawdust from the project for filler for
years, but you do have to go to the trouble of making hot glue. Liquid
hide glue is next to worthless.

Interesting. The Titebond liquid hide glue is rated for 3591psi, vs
3750 for Titebond2. Seems fairly respectable to me...

Chris

I am wondering if in context of the original post, Bugs meant that it
was worthless for filler/filling. I didn't see that he slandered hide
glues adhesive/holding properties.

I don't really think he meant that liquid hide glue was worthless for
anything; just reference to the question about filler.

Robert

wrote in message
oups.com...
I am wondering if in context of the original post, Bugs meant that it
was worthless for filler/filling. I didn't see that he slandered hide
glues adhesive/holding properties.

I don't really think he meant that liquid hide glue was worthless for
anything; just reference to the question about filler.

Robert


I wonder how good a glue has to be to hold saw dust in nail holes and
cracks.

Hot, fresh hide glue makes a joint stronger than the wood itself. If
you test break a joint the wood will tear out before the glue fails.
It's the only thing to use for violin work as the glue crystalizes when
it sets, giving the instrument resonance. Ordinary wood glues remain
plastic and tend to damp out the vibrations in the instrument.
Bugs

On 20 Mar 2006 17:29:27 -0800, "Bugs" wrote:

Hot, fresh hide glue makes a joint stronger than the wood itself. If
you test break a joint the wood will tear out before the glue fails.
It's the only thing to use for violin work as the glue crystalizes when
it sets, giving the instrument resonance. Ordinary wood glues remain
plastic and tend to damp out the vibrations in the instrument.
Bugs


I've never heard that as the reason for hide glue use in stringed
instruments. While it may be true, the primary reason for the use as
I've been told (from the violin making and repair forum) is that it
is reversable whereas most glues with equal strength are not. more
often than not during the life of a wooden stringed instrument repairs
have to be made and you can remove parts without damage by heating the
glue areas to do the repair and then replace the removed component.

I recently did some extensive repairs to an upright bass using hide
glue for the repairs. Advice from the above mentioned forum and some
from this one helped me greatly.

Frank