Stupid Electrical question
 

I ordered the new 18"Rikon and I need to get wired for 240V. I am
considering doing it myself, but I don't know if I should use a 20A or 30A
breaker? Th4e motor only pulls 12.5A, but at start up it might pull more
correct? Should I go 30A just to be safe?

Here is the saw.

http://www.rikontools.com/Products/Bandsaws/10-345.html

I think I might call Rikon tomorrow unless..

--
Stoutman
http://www.garagewoodworks.com
(Featuring a NEW look)

Stupid Electrical question
 

Personally, I would go with the 20amp, Which is what I had my electrical
contractor do for my table saw . The TS only draws 14 amps, and YES start up
does increase the amps, I feel that 20 is more then sufficient, that saw
should be the only thing on that breaker anyway, RIGHT? You really want that
breaker to trip in an emergency, I would want my emergency threshold to be
as low as possible without taking away from my power needs.

Searcher

Stupid Electrical question
 

"stoutman" .@. wrote in message
...
I ordered the new 18"Rikon and I need to get wired for 240V. I am
considering doing it myself, but I don't know if I should use a 20A or 30A
breaker? Th4e motor only pulls 12.5A, but at start up it might pull more
correct? Should I go 30A just to be safe?

You could use a 15a breaker if you want to. It will would not trip under
normal circumstances.
The more important thing is the cable gauge. Unless you are a very long way
from the breaker box, #12 is adequate. You could get away with #14, but
that would be a mistake in the long run.
If, for some bizarre reason, you go with a 30a breaker, you must use #10
wire. If you are concerned about voltage drop, the best combination would
be #10 on a 20a breaker.

Stupid Electrical question
 

You could use a 15a breaker if you want to. It will would not trip under
normal circumstances.
The more important thing is the cable gauge. Unless you are a very long
way from the breaker box, #12 is adequate. You could get away with #14,
but that would be a mistake in the long run.
If, for some bizarre reason, you go with a 30a breaker, you must use #10
wire. If you are concerned about voltage drop, the best combination would
be #10 on a 20a breaker.


I just got back from Home Depot. I got a 20A breaker and 10 gauge wire. If
I ever need to change to 30A all I have to do is swap breakers and I don't
need to rewire.

Thanks!

Stupid Electrical question
 

"stoutman" .@. wrote in message
...
I ordered the new 18"Rikon and I need to get wired for 240V. I am
considering doing it myself, but I don't know if I should use a 20A or 30A
breaker? Th4e motor only pulls 12.5A, but at start up it might pull more
correct? Should I go 30A just to be safe?

Here is the saw.

http://www.rikontools.com/Products/Bandsaws/10-345.html

I think I might call Rikon tomorrow unless..

--
Stoutman
http://www.garagewoodworks.com
(Featuring a NEW look)


What does Rikon say?

Stupid Electrical question
 

What does Rikon say?

I think I might call Rikon tomorrow unless..

It is amperage is ONLY mentioned in the users manual when referring to the
motor (12.5A).

I'm gonna wire for 20A unless someone knows why I should do otherwise.

Stupid Electrical question
 

Someone wrote:

I ordered the new 18"Rikon and I need to get wired for 240V. I am
considering doing it myself, but I don't know if I should use a 20A or
30A
breaker? Th4e motor only pulls 12.5A, but at start up it might pull more
correct? Should I go 30A just to be safe?


Use #10 AWG, 2 conductor with ground and a 2P-30A C'bkr.

The C'bkr protects the insulation on the wire, not the saw motor.

To protect the motor, you need a thermal motor overload relay, which may
already be in the motor.

Lew

"Not So" Stupid Electrical question
 

The plug supplied with your new bandsaw is a 240 Volt, 20 Amp, NEMA 6-20R.
A 20 amp circuit should be more than enough. Thats what I use for my 2hp
delta rc-33 and I've never had a problem. The motor has never bogged down
under a full load either. Good luck and enjoy the new saw!

Aloha...
Craig


"stoutman" .@. wrote in message
...
I ordered the new 18"Rikon and I need to get wired for 240V. I am
considering doing it myself, but I don't know if I should use a 20A or 30A
breaker? Th4e motor only pulls 12.5A, but at start up it might pull more
correct? Should I go 30A just to be safe?

Here is the saw.

http://www.rikontools.com/Products/Bandsaws/10-345.html

I think I might call Rikon tomorrow unless..

--
Stoutman
http://www.garagewoodworks.com
(Featuring a NEW look)




*** Free account sponsored by SecureIX.com ***
*** Encrypt your Internet usage with a free VPN account from http://www.SecureIX.com ***

"Not So" Stupid Electrical question
 

The plug supplied with your new bandsaw is a 240 Volt, 20 Amp, NEMA
6-20R.
A 20 amp circuit should be more than enough. Thats what I use for my 2hp
delta rc-33 and I've never had a problem. The motor has never bogged down
under a full load either. Good luck and enjoy the new saw!

Aloha...
Craig
with a free VPN account from http://www.SecureIX.com ***

Thank you!

Stupid Elec Question
 

I would suggest a 20 Amp breaker and #8 wire.
If the 20 Amp should trip at startup you could always change to 30 amp, but
I seriously doubt that it will trip.

This should give you a very safe operation, especially if you use an
adequately rated plug and socket.

Don Dando



"stoutman" .@. wrote in message
...
I ordered the new 18"Rikon and I need to get wired for 240V. I am
considering doing it myself, but I don't know if I should use a 20A or 30A
breaker? Th4e motor only pulls 12.5A, but at start up it might pull more
correct? Should I go 30A just to be safe?

Here is the saw.

http://www.rikontools.com/Products/Bandsaws/10-345.html

I think I might call Rikon tomorrow unless..

--
Stoutman
http://www.garagewoodworks.com
(Featuring a NEW look)

Stupid Electrical question
 

In article . net, Lew Hodgett wrote:
Someone wrote:

I ordered the new 18"Rikon and I need to get wired for 240V. I am
considering doing it myself, but I don't know if I should use a 20A or
30A
breaker? Th4e motor only pulls 12.5A, but at start up it might pull more
correct? Should I go 30A just to be safe?


Use #10 AWG, 2 conductor with ground and a 2P-30A C'bkr.

That's just silly -- there's no need to use a 30A circuit to run a twelve-amp
tool. A 20A circuit on 12ga wire will do fine.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

Stupid Electrical question
 

"stoutman" .@. wrote in message
...
I ordered the new 18"Rikon and I need to get wired for 240V. I am
considering doing it myself, but I don't know if I should use a 20A or 30A
breaker? Th4e motor only pulls 12.5A, but at start up it might pull more
correct? Should I go 30A just to be safe?

Here is the saw.

http://www.rikontools.com/Products/Bandsaws/10-345.html

I think I might call Rikon tomorrow unless..


Lots of answers. Match to your plug rating to reduce confusion. Match your
breaker to the AWG to meet code. Less confusion for you or anyone
encountering what you've done. All will be as expected.

Draw on startup? Doubt yours draws the rated amps, given the minimum
starting load on a bandsaw. Might get there if you're feeding fast on a
honkin' resaw, though.

Stupid Electrical question
 

"stoutman" .@. wrote in message

I'm gonna wire for 20A unless someone knows why I should do otherwise.

You'll be fine ... and although the 10 ga wire is not strictly necessary for
your current needs, it won't hurt a thing and you will ready for most future
increases/upgrades without having to rewire.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 12/13/05

Stupid Electrical question
 

On Tue, 14 Mar 2006 23:05:33 GMT, "stoutman" .@. wrote:

I ordered the new 18"Rikon and I need to get wired for 240V. I am
considering doing it myself, but I don't know if I should use a 20A or 30A
breaker? Th4e motor only pulls 12.5A, but at start up it might pull more
correct? Should I go 30A just to be safe?

Here is the saw.

http://www.rikontools.com/Products/Bandsaws/10-345.html

I think I might call Rikon tomorrow unless..


I had an interesting problem with 115v.. maybe it will help you with your amp
decision..
ANd one stupid thing I did was to NOT ask here first as you're doing.. *g*

Rewired the garage using the old 220v lines with a leg grounded and made one 3
wire, 110v circuit, which I spread all over the shop with 12 gauge romex...
The original 220 had 2 40 amp breakers so I ended up with a 40 amp breaker on my
shop circuit...

I found out the hard way that you need to have a circuit breaker that will trip
BEFORE your wiring overheats...
No serious fire, luckily, but a lot of plugs and outlets to be changed after I
swapped the 40 amp breaker for a 20.. YMWV

(admitting my stupid mistake in the hope of helping you)

Mac

https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis
https://home.comcast.net/~mac.davis/wood_stuff.htm

Stupid Elec Question
 

"Don Dando" wrote in message
. net...
I would suggest a 20 Amp breaker and #8 wire.
If the 20 Amp should trip at startup you could always change to 30 amp,
but
I seriously doubt that it will trip.

This should give you a very safe operation, especially if you use an
adequately rated plug and socket.

Don Dando


Holy Cow - #8 wire? Wire not just pull freekin' triplex through the wall?
As has been stated several times in the original thread, 12 ga is plenty
sufficient.

--

-Mike-

Stupid Electrical question
 

On Tue, 14 Mar 2006 23:05:33 GMT, "stoutman" .@. wrote:

I ordered the new 18"Rikon and I need to get wired for 240V. I am
considering doing it myself, but I don't know if I should use a 20A or 30A
breaker? Th4e motor only pulls 12.5A, but at start up it might pull more
correct? Should I go 30A just to be safe?

Here is the saw.

http://www.rikontools.com/Products/Bandsaws/10-345.html

I think I might call Rikon tomorrow unless..


The only problem I see with a 10AWG wire on a 20 amp breaker is in the
instanse where the panel needs replacing after a misshap to the panel.

For example, a friend of mine's panel melted down (Due to poor
electrical connections -- A story in itself) The insurance covered the
mishap and send an electrician to replace the panel. The electrician
hooked up the wires to breakers according to their sizes.

To make a long story short, A outside outlet was connected to a 12/2
hot water tank wire, where the the Neutral was the red wire and the
black was the hot. When the electrician plugged in his tools, they
worked really good for about 2 secs.

If the motor pulls 12.5 amps, a 15amp breaker would be more than
enough. My metal chop saw is recommended to run on 20 amps, but my
limitations are 15 amps, and it still works fine, just can't push hard
on it.

Stupid Electrical question
 

You've had lots of good comments.

I don't recall seeing the length of the run from the panel to the saw
given. The longer the run, the greater the voltage drop under load for
wire of any given size. So you'll have less voltage drop with the 10 AWG
wire which is a good thing. Your saw will be happier for it.

Good luck.

Chuck

stoutman wrote:
I ordered the new 18"Rikon and I need to get wired for 240V. I am
considering doing it myself, but I don't know if I should use a 20A or 30A
breaker? Th4e motor only pulls 12.5A, but at start up it might pull more
correct? Should I go 30A just to be safe?

Here is the saw.

http://www.rikontools.com/Products/Bandsaws/10-345.html

I think I might call Rikon tomorrow unless..

Stupid Electrical question
 

O D wrote:

Now why would you use #10 and a 2p CB .

Standard configuration to meet code.

You want to save the wire but
the hell with the mtr if there is a problem.

Don't give a damn about the wire, only the insulation on the wire.

I would put the 20 amp and
get the damn thing to trip earlier if there is a problem . In this case
20 amp breaker will protect the wire better by acting sooner to trip.

Better go back and get a better understanding of the operation of a
thermal-magnetic c'bkr.

The 20A rating is simply a thermal mechanism, not a fault current
protective function.

If you want to protect the motor, the c'bkr doesn't do it.

You need a motor overload relay.

Lew

Stupid Electrical question
 

Lew my mistake I did not mention that someone wanted to use a 30 amp
braker,
My whole point was that the 20 will trip befor the 30 and if all you
have on the like is a 12.5A motor and that puppy goes locked rotor then
the 20 trips faster that what the 30 would have.
I am not sure what the code says or an inspector would say but if they
knew you were going to run only a 12.5A on the 30 amp breaker would it
pass inspection?
And of course wire size what ever he chose 10 or 12 as someone
suggested.
Guess this all comes down to why they have inspectors and why there is a
code.
And why we have licenced electricans. Which is where this question
should have been directed.

Stupid Electrical question
 

O D wrote:

Lew my mistake I did not mention that someone wanted to use a 30 amp
braker,
My whole point was that the 20 will trip befor the 30 and if all you
have on the like is a 12.5A motor and that puppy goes locked rotor then
the 20 trips faster that what the 30 would have.

I am probably suggested using a 2P-30A to protect the #10 AWG conductor
insulation.

The norm for selecting motor circuit protection is to select a device
(fuse or c'bkr) that is about 2.5-3.0 time the nameplate FLA.

30/12.5 = 2.4 which is within spec.

I am not sure what the code says or an inspector would say but if they
knew you were going to run only a 12.5A on the 30 amp breaker would it
pass inspection?

Absolutely. See above.

And of course wire size what ever he chose 10 or 12 as someone
suggested.


Part of the reason I suggested using #10 AWG wiring is that it provides
just about the lowest cost solution available.

Buy a 25 ft long, 2 conductor with ground molded cord set, then cut of
the molded ends and wire up your saw on one end and a suitable 240 VAC
male plug on the opposite end.

I'd use a locking device, but that is just personal preference.

Lew

Stupid Electrical question
 

In article , Roger wrote:

The only problem I see with a 10AWG wire on a 20 amp breaker is in the
instanse where the panel needs replacing after a misshap to the panel.

How is that a problem?

For example, a friend of mine's panel melted down (Due to poor
electrical connections -- A story in itself) The insurance covered the
mishap and send an electrician to replace the panel. The electrician
hooked up the wires to breakers according to their sizes.

Ahhh -- now I see how that's a problem: the electrician was an idiot.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

Stupid Electrical question