Curious about using an electric jointer for end grain as a possible
easiest solution for flattening a triple joint assembly. All made of
doug fir 4x4, as the ascII diagram below:


| | | |
| | | |
| | this assembly down on the | |
| | jointer | |
| | | |
| | ----------------------------------| |
| | - grain for this piece- | |
|___ |______________________ |____|
\ end grain \ end grain

blade
_______________/__________________ -- jointer table

Anyone know if this would be successful without destroying the
end grain? I have no experience and it something I have already built.

TIA for any advice,

--
Alex - "newbie_neander" woodworker
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

To further add to what the thing is... going down on the jointer
is the the top* of the trestle leg set for my bench. Greatly and
mysteriously "a-la Bob keys" in design. The point is to get these
tops perfectly flat the easiest way possible. Would it work?

--
Alex - "newbie_neander" woodworker
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

Set the knife for an extremely fine cut. Clamp/nail some sacrificial
blocks to the sides at the end grain to minimize tearout. Build a
mockup of the piece you want to run through and try that before you
mess up the good piece.

This may be a good excuse to buy a stationary beltsander.

Pete

On Sun, 12 Mar 2006 18:53:13 -0800, "AAvK" wrote:


Curious about using an electric jointer for end grain as a possible
easiest solution for flattening a triple joint assembly. All made of
doug fir 4x4, as the ascII diagram below:


| | | |
| | | |
| | this assembly down on the | |
| | jointer | |
| | | |
| | ----------------------------------| |
| | - grain for this piece- | |
|___ |______________________ |____|
\ end grain \ end grain

blade
_______________/__________________ -- jointer table

Anyone know if this would be successful without destroying the
end grain? I have no experience and it something I have already built.

TIA for any advice,

Think I'd try a straight bit in a router with a guide bushing or bearing
and placing the piece between two sacrificial backer boards. Would also
recommend climb cutting the far end grain piece. Jointer might work with a
backer board, but that is purely speculation. You might try a test piece
first.



+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

If you're gonna be dumb, you better be tough

+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

Set the knife for an extremely fine cut. Clamp/nail some sacrificial
blocks to the sides at the end grain to minimize tearout. Build a
mockup of the piece you want to run through and try that before you
mess up the good piece.

This may be a good excuse to buy a stationary beltsander.

Pete


OK those are some good suggestions, thank you. Can't buy the machine
though, as I live in an apartment and go to the local adult ed. woodshop.
I have mini drill press and band saw, which I currently never use.

--
Alex - "newbie_neander" woodworker
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

AAvK wrote:
Curious about using an electric jointer for end grain as a possible
easiest solution for flattening a triple joint assembly. All made of
doug fir 4x4, as the ascII diagram below:


| | | |
| | | |
| | this assembly down on the | |
| | jointer | |
| | | |
| | ----------------------------------| |
| | - grain for this piece- | |
|___ |______________________ |____|
\ end grain \ end grain

blade
_______________/__________________ -- jointer table

Anyone know if this would be successful without destroying the
end grain? I have no experience and it something I have already built.

I want to understand, but I don't think you used a non-proportional font
for the diagram.

Is it anything that a well-fettled block plane couldn't take care of?
(I know I know, I've been smoothing the ends of some doug fir 4x4's
myself and it aint easy (especially straddling the workpiece on the top
of a 8x10x16 that is my "bench" until I finish this project (also an
interim bench))... but it's neander!)

More parentheticals as they are warranted.

er
--
email not valid

You can joint end-grain on a jointer, but there's a bit of a trick involved.
You don't want to simply run it across the jointer because it will tear out.
So, what I do, is I run it across the jointer just far enough to cover the
first section of end-grain. Remove the piece and rotate so that you're
jointing from the other end. Then, you can complete the job. This will
prevent the end grain from tearing out because when you're finishing up the
cut, the trailing section of end-grain was already jointed and will ride
just above the cutters as you're finishing up the cut. Does this make
sense? It's easy to do, but harder to explain.

I learned this from a class at NWS that Christian Becksvoort taught and this
is the technique he used to square up and fit the rail-stile doors on his
shaker clock.

Mike


"AAvK" wrote in message
news:W55Rf.1057$123.410@fed1read09...

Curious about using an electric jointer for end grain as a possible
easiest solution for flattening a triple joint assembly. All made of
doug fir 4x4, as the ascII diagram below:


| | | |
| | | |
| | this assembly down on the | |
| | jointer | |
| | | |
| | ----------------------------------| |
| | - grain for this piece- | |
|___ |______________________ |____|
\ end grain \ end grain

blade
_______________/__________________ -- jointer table

Anyone know if this would be successful without destroying the
end grain? I have no experience and it something I have already built.

TIA for any advice,

--
Alex - "newbie_neander" woodworker
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

You can joint end-grain on a jointer, but there's a bit of a trick involved.
You don't want to simply run it across the jointer because it will tear out. So, what I do, is I run it across the jointer just
far enough to cover the first section of end-grain. Remove the piece and rotate so that you're jointing from the other end.
Then, you can complete the job. This will prevent the end grain from tearing out because when you're finishing up the cut, the
trailing section of end-grain was already jointed and will ride just above the cutters as you're finishing up the cut. Does this
make sense? It's easy to do, but harder to explain.

I learned this from a class at NWS that Christian Becksvoort taught and this is the technique he used to square up and fit the
rail-stile doors on his shaker clock.

Mike


That's excellent, that makes perfect sense. I could do 95% of the distance and
then turn it around, and the end edge would not chip off drastically. This way
I will not need to mess with clamping blocks on the end corners. That's great,
thanks for the perfect suggestion. Just steadying that last 5% heading to the
blade will be hard on my [very bad] back, these things are heavy.

--
Alex - "newbie_neander" woodworker
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

Just to see what happens

Courier:

| | | |
| | | |
| | this assembly down on the | |
| | jointer | |
| | | |
| | ----------------------------------| |
| | - grain for this piece- | |
|___ |______________________ |____|
\ end grain \ end grain

blade
_______________/__________________ -- jointer table


Courier new:

| | | |
| | | |
| | this assembly down on the | |
| | jointer | |
| | | |
| | ----------------------------------| |
| | - grain for this piece- | |
|___ |______________________ |____|
\ end grain \ end grain

blade
_______________/__________________ -- jointer table

The trick here is to feed part way in one direction about 1-2" then flip
ends and go all the way through.


"AAvK" wrote in message
news:W55Rf.1057$123.410@fed1read09...

Curious about using an electric jointer for end grain as a possible
easiest solution for flattening a triple joint assembly. All made of
doug fir 4x4, as the ascII diagram below:


| | | |
| | | |
| | this assembly down on the | |
| | jointer | |
| | | |
| | ----------------------------------| |
| | - grain for this piece- | |
|___ |______________________ |____|
\ end grain \ end grain

blade
_______________/__________________ -- jointer table

Anyone know if this would be successful without destroying the
end grain? I have no experience and it something I have already built.

TIA for any advice,

--
Alex - "newbie_neander" woodworker
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

"AAvK" wrote in message
news:YonRf.1081$123.725@fed1read09...

That's excellent, that makes perfect sense. I could do 95% of the
distance and
then turn it around, and the end edge would not chip off drastically.
This way
I will not need to mess with clamping blocks on the end corners. That's
great,
thanks for the perfect suggestion. Just steadying that last 5% heading to
the
blade will be hard on my [very bad] back, these things are heavy.


NO!!!!!

Do not go 95% of the way on the first pass. Go a couple of inches then turn
around and run through again. If you go 95% to begin with you have to
balance the 5% nub.

How's this? Done in Courier:


feet feet
/ all doug fir /
______ ______
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| |__________________________| |
| | | |
| | grain for this piece | |
| | -- | |
|____|__________________________|____|
\ TOP downward \
end grain end grain

\/ \/ \/

____________________ __________________ -jointer table
/
blade



--
Alex - "newbie_neander" woodworker
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

NO!!!!!

Do not go 95% of the way on the first pass. Go a couple of inches then turn
around and run through again. If you go 95% to begin with you have to
balance the 5% nub.



OK I get it. THAT I will do. Thank you very much, ya saved me.

I will pay tythes next week.

--
Alex - "newbie_neander" woodworker
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

The trick here is to feed part way in one direction about 1-2" then flip
ends and go all the way through.


Understood!

--
Alex - "newbie_neander" woodworker
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

AAvK wrote:
How's this? Done in Courier:


feet feet
/ all doug fir /
______ ______
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| |__________________________| |
| | | |
| | grain for this piece | |
| | -- | |
|____|__________________________|____|
\ TOP downward \
end grain end grain

\/ \/ \/

____________________ __________________ -jointer table
/
blade

This one does the trick!

er
--
email not valid

And then, I went too far with it!:


foot foot
\/ \/
____ ____
| | | |
| | | |
| _|__________________________|_ |
| | | bench bolts 8" | | |-- side brace standing on
-|--|_|-----[) (]-----|_|--|- haunched tenons in blind
| |__________________________| | mortise
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| || | | || |
| || | | || |-- blind mortise, stretcher
| || | | || | hangs down on haunched
| || | | || | tenons, 8" bench bolts
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| _|__________________________|_ |
| | | bench bolts 8" | | |-- side brace standing on
-|--|-|-----[) (]-----|-|--|- haunched tenons in blind
| |_| |_| | mortise
| | -grain for this piece- | |
|____|__________________________|____|
^ ^TOP^ going downward\/ ^
end grain end grain

\/ \/ \/

________________________ ______________________ -jointer table
_______________________/_______________________
cutter head


--
Alex - "newbie_neander" woodworker
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

"AAvK" wrote in message
news:YonRf.1081$123.725@fed1read09...

You can joint end-grain on a jointer, but there's a bit of a trick
involved.
You don't want to simply run it across the jointer because it will tear
out. So, what I do, is I run it across the jointer just far enough to
cover the first section of end-grain. Remove the piece and rotate so
that you're jointing from the other end. Then, you can complete the job.
This will prevent the end grain from tearing out because when you're
finishing up the cut, the trailing section of end-grain was already
jointed and will ride just above the cutters as you're finishing up the
cut.
That's excellent, that makes perfect sense. I could do 95% of the
distance and
then turn it around, and the end edge would not chip off drastically.
This way
I will not need to mess with clamping blocks on the end corners. That's
great,
thanks for the perfect suggestion. Just steadying that last 5% heading to
the
blade will be hard on my [very bad] back, these things are heavy.

You can't chip out what isn't there, and you don't need to get that
complicated. Take a block plane and chamfer what will end up as the
trailing corner and run the piece. As long as your chamfer is at or below
the depth of cut on the trailing edge, you're good.

AAvK wrote:
And then, I went too far with it!:

Heh, that was good! Makes me wonder if there're any ASCIICAD programs
out in the world.

er
--
email not valid