http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...lance&n=228013

Got this nice hammer a couple of years ago. Never used it much since
converted to screws and air nailers. Broke it yesterday while pulling on a
3" nail. The hickory broke off at the hammer head - second time this
happened. Anyone know what the warranty is on this sucker?

I like the feel of the Vaughan but what would be a nicer hammer with a
stronger handle?

"Jack" n wrote in message ...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...lance&n=228013

Got this nice hammer a couple of years ago. Never used it much since
converted to screws and air nailers. Broke it yesterday while pulling on a
3" nail. The hickory broke off at the hammer head - second time this
happened. Anyone know what the warranty is on this sucker?

I like the feel of the Vaughan but what would be a nicer hammer with a
stronger handle?

replace the hickory handle with fiberglass (available at your local BORG) or
start using a pry bar for removing nails.

On Mon, 27 Feb 2006 11:16:28 -0800, "Jack" n wrote:

I like the feel of the Vaughan but what would be a nicer hammer with a
stronger handle?

I've got the bigger (26 oz?) Vaughan framing hammer with the "axe style"
handle. I've clad a couple of barns and sheds with it now and there's no
sign of handle trouble.

Best bit is people with £200 air nailers laughing at my "expensive" £30
hammer. I don't have an air hose to trip over either.

"robo hippy"
Straight clawed hammers are lousy for pulling nails.
They pull fine if your strong enough.
Mine pulls 16d sinkers just fine.

You can pull the nail by rocking the hammer from side to side,
That's how you brake the handles.

I do use a nail puller the get the head out far enough to get the hammer on
it.

If been using the FAT MAX framer for over a year, built 20+ (small) houses,
same hammer.

Dave



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Teamcasa wrote:
"robo hippy"
Straight clawed hammers are lousy for pulling nails.
They pull fine if your strong enough.
Mine pulls 16d sinkers just fine.

You can pull the nail by rocking the hammer from side to side,
That's how you brake the handles.

Really? I pretty much always hook the nail and then go sideways with
it to start, then pop it right out by pulling parallel with the claws.
But I've been using steel and fiberglass handles much more than wood,
so that may be the difference.

I do use a nail puller the get the head out far enough to get the hammer on
it.

If I break out the nail puller (cat's paw), I just use that to finish
the job.

If been using the FAT MAX framer for over a year, built 20+ (small) houses,
same hammer.

If you wear it out, I've got a one that's almost brand new to sell you.
That hammer was just too big for me - too thick and felt real heavy.
Pneumatics have made me weak.

JP

"Jay Pique" wrote in message
oups.com...

Teamcasa wrote:
"robo hippy"
Straight clawed hammers are lousy for pulling nails.
They pull fine if your strong enough.
Mine pulls 16d sinkers just fine.

You can pull the nail by rocking the hammer from side to side,
That's how you brake the handles.

Really? I pretty much always hook the nail and then go sideways with
it to start, then pop it right out by pulling parallel with the claws.
But I've been using steel and fiberglass handles much more than wood,
so that may be the difference.
Estwing? Good hammer - hard on the wrist.
Death Stick? Too expensive - Even for me!

I do use a nail puller the get the head out far enough to get the hammer
on
it.

If I break out the nail puller (cat's paw), I just use that to finish
the job.
Agreed - sometimes.

If been using the FAT MAX framer for over a year, built 20+ (small)
houses,
same hammer.

If you wear it out, I've got a one that's almost brand new to sell you.
That hammer was just too big for me - too thick and felt real heavy.
I like em like that!

Pneumatics have made me weak.
My guns serve me well also, but sometimes you just need to slam a sinker
home by hand!

Dave



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Pulling is all leverage, and the fulcrum point. With the straight
clawed hammer, as soon as the head is rocked back beyond where the
handle is you loose a lot of leverage, with the short lever (hammer
head) increasing in length to as much as 6 inches. Sure strength works,
but you will have to work much harder. Why work harder than you have
to? All of the extra force goes to the weakest place, the handle where
it joins the head, and wood will break. Solid steel handles work, (not
the hollow ones) but are hell on your wrists and hands by the end of
the day, week, months and years. Fiberglass is ok, and a bit stronger
that wood, but will break eventually. They do offer better shock
absorption than steel, but not better than wood.
Rocking side to side and breaking the handle? You've got to be kidding
me. I have pulled miles of nails that way and never even loosened up
the handle. This method offers the best leverage. Ever tried to pull a
bent 8d duplex nail from a steel stake? The side to side way works the
easiest, and it is almost impossible to pull it out the conventional
way. Efficiency is intelligent laziness. A nail puller works better,
and with less effort than a hammer.
robo hippy

"Jack" n wrote in message ...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...lance&n=228013

Got this nice hammer a couple of years ago. Never used it much since
converted to screws and air nailers. Broke it yesterday while pulling on a
3" nail. The hickory broke off at the hammer head - second time this
happened. Anyone know what the warranty is on this sucker?

I like the feel of the Vaughan but what would be a nicer hammer with a
stronger handle?


If the nail is tight pull the handle 90 degrees left or right instead of in
the normal direction. This puts less strain on the handle and gives you
more leverage.

I make handles for hammers out of Bois d'arc. If it's not extremely
strong, you never know because the wood so beautiful, you'll avoid
using it, thereby your hammer handle will last virtually forever. If
you'd like one, let me know.