I am curious how much gap to leave for these joints, which would entail
possibly not gluing certain faces of the joints, and building for loose dry
fit-ups. Sometimes I had control over gaps, some times not. I did not have
any undersized, non-nominal tools. I was not prepared for the added space
of the glue. I glued ALL applicable surfaces I wanted w/ a small paint
brush. How much gap in thou, or 1/32" or whatever should be designed into
this type of work? The finished pre-glue -up work would look like scrap to
ME w/o knowledge of this. I am very picky about final dimensions.

some of the joints I have made recently which needed glue:

1)drawer lock joint w/ 3/4" face, 1/2" side birch (not Baltic) - (for
drawer)
-TS and router table. 1/4" straight bit. Sanded quite a bit. Chamfered the
corners w/ block. I dry fitted tightly. Thats what I wanted. Then came
glue up. Worked out but I needed all my clamping power. Where did the glue
go Phew.?

2)dado joint w/ 1/2" back, 1/2" side birch (not Baltic) - (for drawer)
-router table. 1/2" straight bit.
There is like .025" or .030" between these two, so glue up was fine. When I
made it I had serious reservations about using the joint! newbie

3)rabbet and dado (free-standing support pillars for sliding doors)
-router table. 1/4" straight bit. 1"x3" select pine. Dry fit was just
right. Mallet time. No gap left anywhere (for glue)! Glued everything!.
What a bummer. Amazed I didn't break anymore cast iron clamps! Had to sand
to get the final thickness back.

4)butt (free-standing support pillar for door hinge side)
- no problems except run-out. Don't know what thickness it added. Seems
like a lot. Disaster in another placement.

5)rabbet and dado (top door jambs) - actually the sides slide on screws and
shimmed from behind, I can slide tops out w/ sides screwed in place, and
they are jointed to be exactly 30" and 24", but I don't think I'll use any
glue. Not much of any gap. More now. Nothing visible. Paintable. What
do you think - expansion!?



BTW, I'm now curious about sliding dovetail front joint effect on
strengthening box for future reference. How do these glue up as far as
strength goes? So I could cover slides on sides. I guess false fronts for
any face frame applications too.





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