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dadiOH
 
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Default Peen rod for rivets

I need to peen over a 3/16 rod to serve as a rivet, been years since I
have done so. Can anyone tell me how much longer the piece of rod
should be (beyond the grip length) to peen two heads?

--
dadiOH
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Bugs
 
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Default Peen rod for rivets

Estimate and make a test rivet. Adjust the length from there until it
suits you
Bugs.

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Gerald Ross
 
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Default Peen rod for rivets

dadiOH wrote:
I need to peen over a 3/16 rod to serve as a rivet, been years since I
have done so. Can anyone tell me how much longer the piece of rod
should be (beyond the grip length) to peen two heads?

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico


On one end scribe a mark say 1/8 " from end, put in vise & peen that
end. with that reference you should be able to calculate where to cut.

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

Socialism is the equal distribution of
poverty.





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Default Peen rod for rivets

If I am remembering my old sheet metal class correctly, it was to hold
the amount to be peened just slightly over the diameter of the rivet
for a round rivet, made by peening to rough shape then finishing with a
rivet tool which made the domed head shape nice and round.

For flat rivets like we use in sheet metal work today we use almost the
same about one diameter past the metal to be held.

Assuming you are making this rivet yourself out of some rounded stock,
make the head for one side of the rivet in a vise so you can get it
exactly the way you want it. Then cut it for length and apply.

It is too difficult to take a small piece of rod and put it where it
needs to go and peen both sides well while on the project. You should
try forming a head to test your rivet metal. Depending on the metal,
the shape of the head and the profile you are after, the metal can
crack at the edges or you may have to hammer it hard enough that you
will distort the shaft making good alignment impossible.

The shop made rivets we used to buy were a very, very mild steel with a
flat side (for the vise anvil or a real anvil) to sit on while forming
the head. We only used home grown rivets when we ran out of these, or
made brass ones out of welding rod when we ran out.

Robert



Robert

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dadiOH
 
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Default Peen rod for rivets

Gerald Ross wrote:
dadiOH wrote:
I need to peen over a 3/16 rod to serve as a rivet, been years
since I have done so. Can anyone tell me how much longer the piece
of rod should be (beyond the grip length) to peen two heads?

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
...a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico


On one end scribe a mark say 1/8 " from end, put in vise & peen that
end. with that reference you should be able to calculate where to cut.


Helpful too, thanks.

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico


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Posted to rec.woodworking
mike hide
 
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Default Peen rod for rivets


wrote in message
oups.com...
If I am remembering my old sheet metal class correctly, it was to hold
the amount to be peened just slightly over the diameter of the rivet
for a round rivet, made by peening to rough shape then finishing with a
rivet tool which made the domed head shape nice and round.

For flat rivets like we use in sheet metal work today we use almost the
same about one diameter past the metal to be held.

Assuming you are making this rivet yourself out of some rounded stock,
make the head for one side of the rivet in a vise so you can get it
exactly the way you want it. Then cut it for length and apply.

It is too difficult to take a small piece of rod and put it where it
needs to go and peen both sides well while on the project. You should
try forming a head to test your rivet metal. Depending on the metal,
the shape of the head and the profile you are after, the metal can
crack at the edges or you may have to hammer it hard enough that you
will distort the shaft making good alignment impossible.

The shop made rivets we used to buy were a very, very mild steel with a
flat side (for the vise anvil or a real anvil) to sit on while forming
the head. We only used home grown rivets when we ran out of these, or
made brass ones out of welding rod when we ran out.

Robert



Robert

Should be able to buy snap head [round head] rivets at the better hardware
stores . if you are going for snap heads both sides you will need to make a
couple of snap head punches one for the vise and one to form the head. One
additional puch will also be needed to draw the two sheets you are riveting
together .This is a simple piece of rod with a hole drilled in the end the
diameter of the rivet plus a little and at least as deep as the rivet is
long . While the rivet is in place use this punch and then drive the rivet..


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