I purchased base coat and top coat spray poly yesterday. (Tired of using
foam applicators)!!

My workshop has a second floor which is ideal for spraying.

http://www.connoraston.com/cafwimage.../big/b_f14.jpg

It gets really warm up there after I put the heat on downstairs. And alot
of the dust is below The base coat I'm told has 25% solids in it to help
fill the grain. So I intend to lay one coat of this and then hand sand
320g? Then apply two top coats.

The question is - is 320g enough/too much to use to sand between coats?
Should I be using 600/800 or more or does it really matter. Anything just
to hit the dust spots(And before the guy who always says try it and see).
This is why I'm asking the question in the first place! Only kidding.

P.S. The smallest cleaner for the Spary Gun was 25 litres far to much (I'd
end up drinking it) can I use White Spirt to clean the gun.

cheers connor.

--
http://www.connoraston.com

Connor Aston wrote:

The question is - is 320g enough/too much to use to sand between coats?

It depends. Are there big dust nibs?

Should I be using 600/800 or more or does it really matter.

600/800 will nicely polish larger dust nibs, leaving you shiny dust nibs
that are still there. G 320 will remove most, big ones may even need
220, if you're sanding them out. I typically use 400 or 0000 steel wool
to scuff between coats of varnish.

Runs, drips, and big dust nibs are actually best removed with a sharp
scraper (like a $5 US Bauco / Sandvik).

FWIW, Lacquer sprays much nicer than polyurethane varnish, and needs no
between coat scuffing to adhere. Since it dries so fast (and in the
cold), much less junk sticks in the finish. Many folks choose varnish
because they don't have the ability to spray. I find urethane and
phenolic varnishes easier to apply with a brush than a spray gun. Even
sprayed, the varnish will need to be rubbed out.

In your situation, spraying a few practice parts will be money in the bank.

Have fun,
Barry

Har! Of course, you meant "spray" and first thought that came to mind
was a male cat marking it's territory.

220 or 320, no finer


"Connor Aston" wrote in message
newsp.s3vhnfbgqkab0d@vigor13...
I purchased base coat and top coat spray poly yesterday. (Tired of using
foam applicators)!!

My workshop has a second floor which is ideal for spraying.

http://www.connoraston.com/cafwimage.../big/b_f14.jpg

It gets really warm up there after I put the heat on downstairs. And alot
of the dust is below The base coat I'm told has 25% solids in it to help
fill the grain. So I intend to lay one coat of this and then hand sand
320g? Then apply two top coats.

The question is - is 320g enough/too much to use to sand between coats?
Should I be using 600/800 or more or does it really matter. Anything just
to hit the dust spots(And before the guy who always says try it and see).
This is why I'm asking the question in the first place! Only kidding.

P.S. The smallest cleaner for the Spary Gun was 25 litres far to much (I'd
end up drinking it) can I use White Spirt to clean the gun.

cheers connor.

--
http://www.connoraston.com

Upscale wrote:
Har! Of course, you meant "spray" and first thought that came to mind
was a male cat marking it's territory.

That is really sick. It's also the first thought that popped into my
enfeebled brain. Sick. sick. sic

Im never using a brush again! This afternoon/tonight i have managed to
spary about 8/10 bits of 3/4" MDF aok veneered about 18 x 24 on both sides
and a few with two coats thanks barry.
I used 600 just to knock off any dust works a treat.
Hardly any dust anyway as it seems to dry in 10 mins!!
I managed to get a spary gun for about £20 and base and top coat for about
£20 each for 5 litres so for this investment I would suggest that if you
still using a brush go out and give it a try its amazing thanks for all
our help
connor

On Tue, 24 Jan 2006 12:37:26 -0000, B a r r y
wrote:

Connor Aston wrote:
The question is - is 320g enough/too much to use to sand between coats?

It depends. Are there big dust nibs?

Should I be using 600/800 or more or does it really matter.

600/800 will nicely polish larger dust nibs, leaving you shiny dust nibs
that are still there. G 320 will remove most, big ones may even need
220, if you're sanding them out. I typically use 400 or 0000 steel wool
to scuff between coats of varnish.

Runs, drips, and big dust nibs are actually best removed with a sharp
scraper (like a $5 US Bauco / Sandvik).

FWIW, Lacquer sprays much nicer than polyurethane varnish, and needs no
between coat scuffing to adhere. Since it dries so fast (and in the
cold), much less junk sticks in the finish. Many folks choose varnish
because they don't have the ability to spray. I find urethane and
phenolic varnishes easier to apply with a brush than a spray gun. Even
sprayed, the varnish will need to be rubbed out.

In your situation, spraying a few practice parts will be money in the
bank.

Have fun,
Barry



--
http://www.connoraston.com

On Tue, 24 Jan 2006 22:39:16 +0000 (UTC), "Connor Aston"
wrote:

Im never using a brush again! This afternoon/tonight i have managed to
spary about 8/10 bits of 3/4" MDF aok veneered about 18 x 24 on both sides
and a few with two coats thanks barry.
I used 600 just to knock off any dust works a treat.
Hardly any dust anyway as it seems to dry in 10 mins!!
I managed to get a spary gun for about £20 and base and top coat for about
£20 each for 5 litres so for this investment I would suggest that if you
still using a brush go out and give it a try its amazing thanks for all
our help
connor


I thought so too when I got my sprayer. Even so, some parts are too
small to justify getting out the spray gear. Brushing's better for
them.

George Max wrote:

I thought so too when I got my sprayer. Even so, some parts are too
small to justify getting out the spray gear. Brushing's better for
them.

For small stuff, I always liked spray bombs. G

Barry