does anyone have any ideas on how to build or ideas for recessed wall niches
or curved tops for recessed shelves,wood, not plastic(they cost a fortune
for what you get)nor drywall or plaster,,I am in a very limited resale
market and freight is outrageous to get anything shipped here,thanks

andy wrote:
does anyone have any ideas on how to build curved tops for
recessed shelves,wood, not plastic(they cost a fortune
for what you get)nor drywall or plaster,

You'll have to segment the wood or steam bend it to get that tight
curve. I've been playing with curved architecture for a while now. I've
cut kerfs in the back of plywood to get it to bend, but it's still not
going to bend very tightly. I laminated the plywood and it looks really
good over the bar in my house. I cut the wall out and put an arch over
it. I'll post picture of it some time when I can see it, maybe after I
get my taxes done this year. You can't see the bar for all of the paper
on it now.

Another idea, I saw Norm building a chest a while back. He curved the
top by putting it together in strips and planing it and sanding until
he got the curve he wanted.

Tom in KY

andy wrote:
does anyone have any ideas on how to build or ideas for recessed wall niches
or curved tops for recessed shelves,wood, not plastic(they cost a fortune
for what you get)nor drywall or plaster,,I am in a very limited resale
market and freight is outrageous to get anything shipped here,thanks


By "curved top" do you mean curved moldings?

If so:

One way is to cut the curve from plywood or mdf faced with the correct
wood (say, cherry plywood) for your project, then laminating a thin,
bendable edge to each side. The edge has been previously edge shaped
with a router or shaper.

Another way is to build the sides from straight stock and cut the curve.
Fluting and edge treatments can then be routed. Edges are easy, a
bearing-guided bit will easily follow the edge. For internal fluting,
you could make a jig (sled) that holds the router in position while it
rides the inside or outside curve, or jig a router table to dow it face
down.

You could also check locally for a cabinet shop that owns a Williams &
Hussey or similar molding machine and pay them to cut it to your specs.
By using a cutter profile the shop has in stock, you'll save money.

Curve layout is easily done with a large trammel (a stick with holes
spaced appropriately apart, one for an anchor, the other for a pencil)
for constant radius curves, or a thin strip of wood held into a bow
shape with a clamp, for fair curves.

Another options include a raised or flat panel with a straight bottom
and arched top, skipping the curve altogether, or changing it to some
sort of angled design.

Have fun,
Barry