I dug up an old Stanley #5 hand plane. I don't really know much about
them, but it looks well built. Anyway, I took it all apart and cleaned
it up, then put it back together in what I THINK was the correct way.
This is what happens when you do stuff over the holidays and get
distracted.

My problem is it doesn't seem to "work". It feels very sharp (how
sharp is sharp?). But when I run it along the edge of a piece of oak
or pine, it just sort of skips along and digs in. Also, the wood it
does dig off just gets all bound up in the gap around the blade.

Can anybody give me some pointers on how best to set up and use this?

-Jim

On 11 Jan 2006 05:47:48 -0800, "jtpr" wrote:

Can anybody give me some pointers on how best to set up and use this?

http://www.amgron.clara.net/planingp...planeindex.htm

Andy Dingley wrote:
On 11 Jan 2006 05:47:48 -0800, "jtpr" wrote:

Can anybody give me some pointers on how best to set up and use this?

http://www.amgron.clara.net/planingp...planeindex.htm

Amen!! Jeff Gorman is an authority if anyone is.

Tom in KY, sometimes ya' just gotta' go back across the pond. OH!! you
forgot to mention,,(It's a Jack plane Jeff).

jtpr wrote:
I dug up an old Stanley #5 hand plane. I don't really know much about
them, but it looks well built. Anyway, I took it all apart and cleaned
it up, then put it back together in what I THINK was the correct way.
This is what happens when you do stuff over the holidays and get
distracted.

My problem is it doesn't seem to "work". It feels very sharp (how
sharp is sharp?). But when I run it along the edge of a piece of oak
or pine, it just sort of skips along and digs in. Also, the wood it
does dig off just gets all bound up in the gap around the blade.

Can anybody give me some pointers on how best to set up and use this?

-Jim

First, view the video at www.hocktools.com and see if it answers any
questions. It's brief to say the least but it may give you a clue as to
what's what.

Is the blade sharp? Good place to start:
http://www.hocktools.com/sharpen.htm

Blade (sharp) with chipbreaker (honed as needed to sit air-tight against
the blade) set about 1/32" back from the blade edge, blade is installed
bevel-down btw, frog adjusted so that the cutting edge is VERY close to
the front edge of the mouth (like 5 to 10 thousandths of an inch or even
closer). Start with the blade retracted and advance it while pushing it
along a piece of polite wood until it just starts to cut. Use the
lateral (side-to-side) adjuster to cant the blade until it's cutting all
the way across and you're there.

Once you've got it set up properly, there are other things to do to
improve performance (like flattening the sole and truing up the mouth.)

Did it work? If not, let us know. This group can talk a problem like
this nearly to death and love every minute of it.

Good luck.

--
Ron Hock
HOCK TOOLS www.hocktools.com

Ron Hock wrote in
:
[snip of many good suggestions]

Did it work? If not, let us know. This group can talk a problem like
this nearly to death and love every minute of it.

Good luck.


As far as that goes, let us know if it *does* work. We like that too!



--
Regards,

JT
Speaking only for myself....

One of the things that I wasn't really prepared for when I started using
planes was how little movement of the depth adjustment wheel makes a
difference. If you start with the blade fully retracted but close to the
mouth then creep it out a tiny, tiny bit at a time you'll get an idea of
how it works, and it will let you correct any skew in the blade.

That said, it's unlikely that you could get a decent edge on the iron
without the right equipment and a good idea of what to do with it. You
didn't say how you sharpened it.


--
My spelling is really atrocious.

In article , Gordon Airporte
wrote:

That said, it's unlikely that you could get a decent edge on the iron
without the right equipment and a good idea of what to do with it.

Sandpaper, float glass, and steady hands... or the Veritas sharpening
jig.

http://www.shavings.net/SCARY.HTM

djb

--
The moral difference between a soldier and a civilian is that the soldier
accepts personal responsibility for the safety of the body politic of which he
is a member. The civilian does not. ‹ Robert A. Heinlein

GREAT ADVICE, Went out, dug up all my planes and followed the advice of this
post and now they all work great!

Thanks guys

Rich
--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"