Simple question white oak tabletop now have 3 coats of danish oil on can I?
1. put oil based varnish on top of this
2. put quick drying varnish on this (anbody every tried this?) Iv'e been
told you can.
Regards
Connor




--
http://www.connoraston.com

I do it all the time. But...always do a test on a piece of scrap. Don't
believe everything you read.

"Connor Aston" wrote in message
newsp.s24vk0xdqkab0d@vigor13...
Simple question white oak tabletop now have 3 coats of danish oil on can
I?
1. put oil based varnish on top of this


Yes you can.

Connor Aston wrote:
Simple question white oak tabletop now have 3 coats of danish oil on can I?
1. put oil based varnish on top of this
2. put quick drying varnish on this (anbody every tried this?) Iv'e been

Wait a few days for the danish oil to be good and dry.

Mon, Jan 9, 2006, 11:03pm (EST+5) (Connor*Aston)
stumbled in and mumbled:
snip Iv'e been told you can.

Read the sig block. Try it.



JOAT
You'll never get anywhere if you believe what you "hear".
What do you "know"?
- Granny Weatherwax

Connor Aston wrote:
Simple question white oak tabletop now have 3 coats of danish oil on can I?
1. put oil based varnish on top of this
2. put quick drying varnish on this (anbody every tried this?) Iv'e been
told you can.

Dewaxed shellac, commercially sold in paint stores as Zinnser Seal Coat,
will work as a fine barrier between almost anything. I also adds a
slight warm amber tone to white oak that many folks really like.
Comprehensive usage and compatibility instructions are on the can.

Anytime you're not sure, do a sample board on scrap. No scrap? Test on
the bottom.

When in doubt, use a barrier coat.

The bottom line is yes, an oil varnish should work fine over danish oil,
with the following cautions:

- Pigment removal: If the oil has a pigment in it (solids), the varnish
can break it free, allowing your brush or rag to redistribute the
pigment. This will show up in the final finish as brush marks or light
spots. Seal Coat will prevent this.

- If the oil is still oozing from the pores, keep wiping and wait until
it stops.

Have fun,
Barry

B a r r y wrote:

- If the oil is still oozing from the pores, keep wiping and wait until
it stops.

Eh, in red oak that takes awhile. As I found. White oak is better, but
still porous.

er
--
email not valid

Sorry people
can I use quick drying AND oil based or just oil based
thanks Connor

OH no not another tool purchase . . . yes this today
http://www.kregtool.com/products/pht...?PRODUCT_ID=10
Has anyone any tips and can you make your own plugs?


On Tue, 10 Jan 2006 00:28:09 -0000, Leon
wrote:


"Connor Aston" wrote in message
newsp.s24vk0xdqkab0d@vigor13...
Simple question white oak tabletop now have 3 coats of danish oil on can
I?
1. put oil based varnish on top of this


Yes you can.





--
http://www.connoraston.com

Connor Aston wrote:

Simple question white oak tabletop now have 3 coats of danish oil on can I?
1. put oil based varnish on top of this
2. put quick drying varnish on this (anbody every tried this?) Iv'e been
told you can.
Regards
Connor


Couldn't find any Irish Oil?

I'd give it AT LEAST a couple of days to dry before applying a
finish.
If you'd used boiled linseed oil it'd be more like a week - or so.

How's the X31 working for you?

charlie b