I'm getting ready to go ahead and finally
get one, but I had a few questions. I
haven't been able to find much discussion
on this unit, surprisingly. The most recent
postings are May 2004 from Mike in Mystic.
Mike, if you're out there, I'd value your latest
thoughts on the unit.

1. I usually do Not put a micro bevel on my
blades, so I guess I will get a few extra 4mm
platters and put all my different abrasive
discs on this thickness of platter.
Will this work?

2. Each of the various grit discs must
have a slightly different thickness.
I'd guess that the difference in thickness
between the coarsest (80x) and finest
(1200x) discs is on the order of 0.020".
Not much, but enough so that the grinding
geometry is different and if you did Not
want a multi-faceted edge or micro bevel,
you would have to re-grind the entire
bevel at each grit. (As stated, I usually
do Not want a micro bevel.)
Is it possible to maintain a constant bevel
angle as you progress through the grits ?

3. What are the best options for final
honing ? Can anyone recommend
suppliers of superfine grit 8" PSA
discs ? The latest FineWoodworking
(review on power sharpeners) recommends
a felt disc charged with compound.
Anyone use this method? Or is it really
still best done by hand on a stone?

4. This is a dry system.
Any tendency for burning the very edge?

As always, Thanks,
Ken

On 9 Jan 2006 04:33:14 -0800, "Ken" wrote:

I'm getting ready to go ahead and finally
get one, but I had a few questions. I
haven't been able to find much discussion
on this unit, surprisingly. The most recent
postings are May 2004 from Mike in Mystic.
Mike, if you're out there, I'd value your latest
thoughts on the unit.

1. I usually do Not put a micro bevel on my
blades, so I guess I will get a few extra 4mm
platters and put all my different abrasive
discs on this thickness of platter.
Will this work?

2. Each of the various grit discs must
have a slightly different thickness.
I'd guess that the difference in thickness
between the coarsest (80x) and finest
(1200x) discs is on the order of 0.020".
Not much, but enough so that the grinding
geometry is different and if you did Not
want a multi-faceted edge or micro bevel,
you would have to re-grind the entire
bevel at each grit. (As stated, I usually
do Not want a micro bevel.)
Is it possible to maintain a constant bevel
angle as you progress through the grits ?

3. What are the best options for final
honing ? Can anyone recommend
suppliers of superfine grit 8" PSA
discs ? The latest FineWoodworking
(review on power sharpeners) recommends
a felt disc charged with compound.
Anyone use this method? Or is it really
still best done by hand on a stone?

4. This is a dry system.
Any tendency for burning the very edge?

As always, Thanks,
Ken

Bet you'd get an honest and accurate answer if you asked
customerservice@leevalley.

"Ken" wrote in message
oups.com...
I'm getting ready to go ahead and finally
get one, but I had a few questions. I
haven't been able to find much discussion
on this unit, surprisingly. The most recent
postings are May 2004 from Mike in Mystic.
Mike, if you're out there, I'd value your latest
thoughts on the unit.

1. I usually do Not put a micro bevel on my
blades, so I guess I will get a few extra 4mm
platters and put all my different abrasive
discs on this thickness of platter.
Will this work?

It sure would.


2. Each of the various grit discs must
have a slightly different thickness.
I'd guess that the difference in thickness
between the coarsest (80x) and finest
(1200x) discs is on the order of 0.020".
Not much, but enough so that the grinding
geometry is different and if you did Not
want a multi-faceted edge or micro bevel,
you would have to re-grind the entire
bevel at each grit. (As stated, I usually
do Not want a micro bevel.)
Is it possible to maintain a constant bevel
angle as you progress through the grits ?

I have not found that changing grits creates a microbevel. Changing the
platters, yes but not the abrasive. I suppose it's there but to be honest,
it must be so small a change that I don't notice it.

3. What are the best options for final
honing ? Can anyone recommend
suppliers of superfine grit 8" PSA
discs ? The latest FineWoodworking
(review on power sharpeners) recommends
a felt disc charged with compound.
Anyone use this method? Or is it really
still best done by hand on a stone?

My final step after using this system is a leather strop charged with the
green honing compound.

4. This is a dry system.
Any tendency for burning the very edge?

I haven't seen any burnt edges. It's pretty benign in terms of heat.
Overall, I've been very happy with my system and it really does do a great
job of sharpening. I've used it on chisels, plane blades, and turning
tools with great success.
Cheers,
cc

I have had the MK II for a year or more.

1 & 2. IMHO, the micro-bevel is key to having this system work well.
The fine grits wear out faster than the coarse, so it reduces the
amount of metal removed by the fine grits. It also minimizes the need
to have all the geometry exactly the same between the disks. That
said, the blue, coarse paper is much thicker that the 9 micron paper,
so you will probably get some degree of micro-bevel just from that
switch. If you want to finish by hand, then I would use the
second-coarsest paper and stop there with the machine.

3. I use 0.5 micron PSA paper that I got from
http://www.antiquetools.com/. They probably sell it at Lee Valley,
also. You can just stick it on and then cut around it. The sharpener
even has a built-in punch to make the hole in the middle. My intuition
is that the 0.5 micron paper polishes the edge, but doesn't really make
it any sharper. I have considered trying the felt disk, myself. The
instructions to the machine suggest using an old men's dress shirt
glued to the disk with spray adhesive. Then you charge the shirt with
honing compound. I'll probably try that before spending $25 on a felt
wheel.

4. You can't just leave the blade on there forever, but I haven't had
a big problem with heat.

Mark

It occurred to me the other day as I was building a shroud for my belt
sander sharpening rig that turntable sharpeners could make a real mess
flinging swarf off all over the place. I saw the LV demoed at a
woodworking show and the guy wasn't using any sort of screen. Is that an
issue?
Also, I suppose it could be too tweaky to make a leather disc and get it
to be the correct thickness.

--
My spelling is really atrocious.

Gordon Airporte wrote:
It occurred to me the other day as I was building a shroud for my belt
sander sharpening rig that turntable sharpeners could make a real mess
flinging swarf off all over the place. I saw the LV demoed at a
woodworking show and the guy wasn't using any sort of screen. Is that an
issue?

It turns at 650RPM. Probably not fast enough to fling stuff around.

Chris

After using it in the same place for a long time, there will be a
little metal a couple of inches out from the machine. The turntable
turns away from the operator, so it's mostly toward the back of the
machine, which in my case is a wall. It's really not very messy.

Mark

Ken,

I can't say anything about the Veritas MKII "Power" sharpener, but I can tell you that the non-powered Veritas MKII honing guide is foolproof, maybe not damn fool proof, bur certainly fool proof.

The MKII honing guide was on just about everybody's 2005 top ten tools of the year list and for good reason.

I use the guide with a 200 grit Norton water stone if the blade needs to have the bevel set, otherwise I start with a DMT 600 and then 1200 diamond stone, then finish it off with a 4000 grit water stone. With the MKII guide you can put the micro bevel on in about 10 seconds if you want to, or not if you don't.

I get my chisels and plane blades sharp as razors with a perfectly squared edge.....every single time.

Unless you have a shop full of handtools that require sharpening, or plan to sharpen professionally, I would recomend getting the guide for about 50 bucks and pocketing the difference. Get some water stones up to 4000 girt, 8000 if you want a mirror finish.

Paul
"Ken" wrote in message oups.com...
I'm getting ready to go ahead and finally
get one, but I had a few questions. I
haven't been able to find much discussion
on this unit, surprisingly. The most recent
postings are May 2004 from Mike in Mystic.
Mike, if you're out there, I'd value your latest
thoughts on the unit.

1. I usually do Not put a micro bevel on my
blades, so I guess I will get a few extra 4mm
platters and put all my different abrasive
discs on this thickness of platter.
Will this work?

2. Each of the various grit discs must
have a slightly different thickness.
I'd guess that the difference in thickness
between the coarsest (80x) and finest
(1200x) discs is on the order of 0.020".
Not much, but enough so that the grinding
geometry is different and if you did Not
want a multi-faceted edge or micro bevel,
you would have to re-grind the entire
bevel at each grit. (As stated, I usually
do Not want a micro bevel.)
Is it possible to maintain a constant bevel
angle as you progress through the grits ?

3. What are the best options for final
honing ? Can anyone recommend
suppliers of superfine grit 8" PSA
discs ? The latest FineWoodworking
(review on power sharpeners) recommends
a felt disc charged with compound.
Anyone use this method? Or is it really
still best done by hand on a stone?

4. This is a dry system.
Any tendency for burning the very edge?

As always, Thanks,
Ken

In article , dream-
says...
Ken,

I can't say anything about the Veritas MKII "Power" sharpener, but I can tell you that the non-powered Veritas MKII honing guide is foolproof, maybe not damn fool proof, bur certainly fool proof.

The MKII honing guide was on just about everybody's 2005 top ten tools of the year list and for good reason.

I use the guide with a 200 grit Norton water stone if the blade needs to have the bevel set, otherwise I start with a DMT 600 and then 1200 diamond stone, then finish it off with a 4000 grit water stone. With the MKII guide you can put the micro bevel on in about 10 seconds if you want to, or not if you don't.

I get my chisels and plane blades sharp as razors with a perfectly squared edge.....every single time.

Unless you have a shop full of handtools that require sharpening, or plan to sharpen professionally, I would recomend getting the guide for about 50 bucks and pocketing the difference. Get some water stones up to 4000 girt, 8000 if you want a mirror finish.

Paul
"Ken" wrote in message oups.com...
I'm getting ready to go ahead and finally

(snip)

Paul, if I may please slip in a question here, maybe a dumb one. I have
the latest iteration of the guide and the old one as well, and I think
it's great too. But I do have one problem with narrow chisels: the tool
wanders from square even when I guard against the repetitiveness and
tighten the jig evenly. (My $14 Eclipse, in contrast, never budges.)
Again, it's likely me, but on the chance you have a suggestion. TIA,
Larry

LDR wrote:

In article , dream-
says...

Ken,

I can't say anything about the Veritas MKII "Power" sharpener, but I can tell you that the non-powered Veritas MKII honing guide is foolproof, maybe not damn fool proof, bur certainly fool proof.

The MKII honing guide was on just about everybody's 2005 top ten tools of the year list and for good reason.

I use the guide with a 200 grit Norton water stone if the blade needs to have the bevel set, otherwise I start with a DMT 600 and then 1200 diamond stone, then finish it off with a 4000 grit water stone. With the MKII guide you can put the micro bevel on in about 10 seconds if you want to, or not if you don't.

I get my chisels and plane blades sharp as razors with a perfectly squared edge.....every single time.

Unless you have a shop full of handtools that require sharpening, or plan to sharpen professionally, I would recomend getting the guide for about 50 bucks and pocketing the difference. Get some water stones up to 4000 girt, 8000 if you want a mirror finish.

Paul
"Ken" wrote in message oups.com...
I'm getting ready to go ahead and finally


(snip)

Paul, if I may please slip in a question here, maybe a dumb one. I have
the latest iteration of the guide and the old one as well, and I think
it's great too. But I do have one problem with narrow chisels: the tool
wanders from square even when I guard against the repetitiveness and
tighten the jig evenly. (My $14 Eclipse, in contrast, never budges.)
Again, it's likely me, but on the chance you have a suggestion. TIA,
Larry
I've got the same problem. I discussed it with them and they claim they
couldn't duplicate the problem. yeah, right. And their burnisher is as
hard as it should be. Right...

Dave

LDR wrote:

But I do have one problem with narrow chisels: the tool
wanders from square even when I guard against the repetitiveness and
tighten the jig evenly. (My $14 Eclipse, in contrast, never budges.)

By it's very nature, the vertical clamping design will not handle narrow
items as well as a side-clamp like the Eclipse.

If you want to get the repeatable-angle benefits of the Veritas, you
might try the following:

Cut a shallow dado (shallower than the thickness of the chisel) the
width of the chisel in a small piece of wood.

Put the chisel in the jig bevel-down as usual, then put the wood over
the top of the chisel such that the jig hits the wood on top and the
chisel on the bottom.

That way the wood will tend to keep the chisel from going out of square.

Chris

In article ,
says...
LDR wrote:

But I do have one problem with narrow chisels: the tool
wanders from square even when I guard against the repetitiveness and
tighten the jig evenly. (My $14 Eclipse, in contrast, never budges.)

By it's very nature, the vertical clamping design will not handle narrow
items as well as a side-clamp like the Eclipse.

If you want to get the repeatable-angle benefits of the Veritas, you
might try the following:

Cut a shallow dado (shallower than the thickness of the chisel) the
width of the chisel in a small piece of wood.

Put the chisel in the jig bevel-down as usual, then put the wood over
the top of the chisel such that the jig hits the wood on top and the
chisel on the bottom.

That way the wood will tend to keep the chisel from going out of square.

Chris

That's an interesting idea which I will look at. I have a feeling though
that there isn't enough room for both the wood and my chisels, which
apart from the mortise ones, have a high profile. Anyway, thank you, and
thank you Dave for your post which didn't make me feel like an idiot.

Larry,

I've used my MKII on 1/4 " bench chisels, didn't notice any wandering off
from square with that small of a chisel.

Dumb question here too, but is the stone perfectly flat? I use a piece of
plate glass and some silicon carbide powder to flatten my stones every time
I use them, when I do it every time it never takes more than a minute or so
to flatten the stones. I flatten the 200 stone on the glass, I flatten my
4000 grit water stone on my DMT 600 grit diamond stone.

That's all I can think of that might help,

Paul


"LDR" wrote in message
k.net...
In article , dream-
says...
Ken,

I can't say anything about the Veritas MKII "Power" sharpener, but I can
tell you that the non-powered Veritas MKII honing guide is foolproof,
maybe not damn fool proof, bur certainly fool proof.

The MKII honing guide was on just about everybody's 2005 top ten tools of
the year list and for good reason.

I use the guide with a 200 grit Norton water stone if the blade needs to
have the bevel set, otherwise I start with a DMT 600 and then 1200
diamond stone, then finish it off with a 4000 grit water stone. With the
MKII guide you can put the micro bevel on in about 10 seconds if you want
to, or not if you don't.

I get my chisels and plane blades sharp as razors with a perfectly
squared edge.....every single time.

Unless you have a shop full of handtools that require sharpening, or plan
to sharpen professionally, I would recomend getting the guide for about
50 bucks and pocketing the difference. Get some water stones up to 4000
girt, 8000 if you want a mirror finish.

Paul
"Ken" wrote in message
oups.com...
I'm getting ready to go ahead and finally

(snip)

Paul, if I may please slip in a question here, maybe a dumb one. I have
the latest iteration of the guide and the old one as well, and I think
it's great too. But I do have one problem with narrow chisels: the tool
wanders from square even when I guard against the repetitiveness and
tighten the jig evenly. (My $14 Eclipse, in contrast, never budges.)
Again, it's likely me, but on the chance you have a suggestion. TIA,
Larry

Ranger Paul wrote:
Larry,

I've used my MKII on 1/4 " bench chisels, didn't notice any wandering off
from square with that small of a chisel.

Dumb question here too, but is the stone perfectly flat? I use a piece of
plate glass and some silicon carbide powder to flatten my stones every time
I use them, when I do it every time it never takes more than a minute or so
to flatten the stones. I flatten the 200 stone on the glass, I flatten my
4000 grit water stone on my DMT 600 grit diamond stone.

That's all I can think of that might help,

Paul


"LDR" wrote in message
k.net...

In article , dream-
says...

Ken,

I can't say anything about the Veritas MKII "Power" sharpener, but I can
tell you that the non-powered Veritas MKII honing guide is foolproof,
maybe not damn fool proof, bur certainly fool proof.

The MKII honing guide was on just about everybody's 2005 top ten tools of
the year list and for good reason.

I use the guide with a 200 grit Norton water stone if the blade needs to
have the bevel set, otherwise I start with a DMT 600 and then 1200
diamond stone, then finish it off with a 4000 grit water stone. With the
MKII guide you can put the micro bevel on in about 10 seconds if you want
to, or not if you don't.

I get my chisels and plane blades sharp as razors with a perfectly
squared edge.....every single time.

Unless you have a shop full of handtools that require sharpening, or plan
to sharpen professionally, I would recomend getting the guide for about
50 bucks and pocketing the difference. Get some water stones up to 4000
girt, 8000 if you want a mirror finish.

Paul
"Ken" wrote in message
egroups.com...
I'm getting ready to go ahead and finally

(snip)

Paul, if I may please slip in a question here, maybe a dumb one. I have
the latest iteration of the guide and the old one as well, and I think
it's great too. But I do have one problem with narrow chisels: the tool
wanders from square even when I guard against the repetitiveness and
tighten the jig evenly. (My $14 Eclipse, in contrast, never budges.)
Again, it's likely me, but on the chance you have a suggestion. TIA,
Larry



Try sharpening a medium shoulder plane iron. that's the most
problematic of anything I've used with the MKII yet. The shank of the
iron is narrower than the blade itself so even when using an ultra flat
DMT stone, the iron tends to move around unless you get it DEAD center
on the MKII, tighten the bolts EVER so carefully and very tight, to the
point that it's hard to release them with mortal fingers, and then
stroke the blade with extra care that need not be given to other
sharpening tasks. Doable, but fussy.

Dave

In article , nospamdream-
says...
Larry,

I've used my MKII on 1/4 " bench chisels, didn't notice any wandering off
from square with that small of a chisel.

Dumb question here too, but is the stone perfectly flat? I use a piece of
plate glass and some silicon carbide powder to flatten my stones every time
I use them, when I do it every time it never takes more than a minute or so
to flatten the stones. I flatten the 200 stone on the glass, I flatten my
4000 grit water stone on my DMT 600 grit diamond stone.

That's all I can think of that might help,

Paul


(snip)

Maybe, Paul; I do flatten my stones, although not as devotedly as you
do. I think your advice is good and will follow your example. However, I
do also own a diamond plate and have had the same problem. I think the
hone should have been designed better in this regard. There is a UK hone
which is twice as expensive as the Veritas and promises to stay put. But
I'm tapped out on hones and will make the MKII work. Like you, I think,
I'm beginning to feel like a mark for the industry hyping new tools and
gadgets. But that's the subject of another thread :-) Larry