Rob (in ) said:

| [resend - first two have not gone through after 18 hours]

That's the way it should be - this is a text-only newsgroup.

| I'm pushing the lumber through at around 2" per second (the 6"
| sample took about 3 seconds). The raised areas might not be enough
| to cause gluing difficulties (face gluing for a work bench), but I
| know this isn't right...

You're right, it's not. If you jointed knots, they might be the
cause - else it could be sand/grit trapped in the wood or hiding on
the surface.

I'd be inclined to check the bevel on the knives - and to perhaps add
a secondary bevel to have just a bit more "meat" at the cutting edge.
Even HSS will chip and break if the edge is too thin.

|
| One guy at work thought the ends of the board might be dirty
| (literally, dirt), and nicking the knives (I have not trimmed the
| length yet). Another had no idea what might be causing the problem,
| but said it wouldn't of been dirty lumber, especially from where I
| got it from.

A really good source isn't a guarantee that the wood'll still be clean
when you get it back to your shop - it's possible to pick up sand and
grit from a truck bed, too...

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/solar.html

Morris Dovey wrote:

That's the way it should be - this is a text-only newsgroup.

My bad. I lurked for a bit and saw quite a few images going through,
and thought I'd be ok.


You're right, it's not. If you jointed knots, they might be the
cause - else it could be sand/grit trapped in the wood or hiding on
the surface.

A couple of knots, but it's FAS lumber, so not too many knots. And, I
saved the knotty board for last.


I'd be inclined to check the bevel on the knives - and to perhaps add
a secondary bevel to have just a bit more "meat" at the cutting edge.
Even HSS will chip and break if the edge is too thin.

I'll check with the sharp shop to see if they can do this. I tried
sharpening the last set of knives on a water stone, but they were bowed
slightly, so I stopped quickly, and picked up the new set.


A really good source isn't a guarantee that the wood'll still be clean
when you get it back to your shop - it's possible to pick up sand and
grit from a truck bed, too...

Good point. I did load the lumber on stands in my bed, so it wasn't
laying on the bed itself, but that might only mean strips of gunk. I
was mindful of that issue. And it's standing up in my (clean) garage.

Thanks for the thoughts,
Rob

Rob (in ) said:

| Morris Dovey wrote:
||
|| That's the way it should be - this is a text-only newsgroup.
|
| My bad. I lurked for a bit and saw quite a few images going
| through, and thought I'd be ok.

/My/ bad - I should have mentioned that woodworking-related binaries
can be posted to news:alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking.
--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/solar.html

Rob wrote:

I'd be inclined to check the bevel on the knives - and to perhaps add
a secondary bevel to have just a bit more "meat" at the cutting edge.
Even HSS will chip and break if the edge is too thin.

The sharp shop put a microbevel on the blades. Then I cut myself
putting them on :-(



A really good source isn't a guarantee that the wood'll still be clean
when you get it back to your shop - it's possible to pick up sand and
grit from a truck bed, too...

I cut of the ends (1/8") of each board. Ran another 60 bf through, and
the first board is as good as the last.

Thanks for your advise. I suspect is was the secondary bevel that did
the trick.

Cheers,
Rob

Rob (in ) said:

| The sharp shop put a microbevel on the blades. Then I cut myself
| putting them on :-(

Not a thing I can say that you haven't already said to yourself. I
keep a tube of Neosporin and a handful of band-aids in my shop for
those occasions when I've forgotten what sharp is all about.

| I cut of the ends (1/8") of each board. Ran another 60 bf through,
| and the first board is as good as the last.

Isn't it great when things work like they're supposed to? :-)

| Thanks for your advise. I suspect is was the secondary bevel that
| did the trick.

You're welcome. Actually I was just passing on something I learned
about here on the wreck. My guess is that the initial sharpening left
a slightly too fine edge - and adding a secondary bevel (to a just
ground edge) was a strategy for recovery with minimal loss of HSS.

Please post pix of your bench to
news:alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking when it's done!

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/solar.html

On 18 Dec 2005 19:09:32 -0800, with neither quill nor qualm, "Rob"
quickly quoth:

The sharp shop put a microbevel on the blades. Then I cut myself
putting them on :-(

Get these and wear them before you replace them the next time, Rob.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92173
kevlar, or the sticky-coated (kevlar or spectra) glass-handling
gloves. (HF no longer carries the type I got. Golden kevlar with a
drizzle of clear rubber on the palm and fingers side.)


Thanks for your advise.

You are advised to write "advice" the next time you thank him.

--
Don't forget the 7 P's:
Proper Prior Planning Prevents ****-Poor Performance
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