I had asked this in the long thread I had going but decided to pull it
out of there into this subject specific post.

In the other thread, someone had warned me against using tackcloth and
had advised me to make my own using old shellac. I responded with:

So, if tackcloths are out and I don't want to make my own as you
describe, what about wiping off the wood with mineral spirits, thinner,
or alcohol? Do these raise the grain and require light resanding after
use as water does? I don't like the idea of having to sand again AFTER
wiping sawdust off with water -- it seems like an endless cycle --
water -- sand -- water -- sand...

wrote:
I had asked this in the long thread I had going but decided to pull it
out of there into this subject specific post.

In the other thread, someone had warned me against using tackcloth and
had advised me to make my own using old shellac. I responded with:

So, if tackcloths are out and I don't want to make my own as you
describe, what about wiping off the wood with mineral spirits, thinner,
or alcohol? Do these raise the grain and require light resanding after
use as water does? I don't like the idea of having to sand again AFTER
wiping sawdust off with water -- it seems like an endless cycle --
water -- sand -- water -- sand...

Mineral spirits does (do?) not raise the grain the way water does.
I'll not say it does not raise the grain at all, but not enough to
warrant
resanding. Alcohol in the shop will always have at least a little
water
in it, but probably not enough to be a problem either.

--

FF

wrote in message
oups.com...
I had asked this in the long thread I had going but decided to pull it
out of there into this subject specific post.

In the other thread, someone had warned me against using tackcloth and
had advised me to make my own using old shellac. I responded with:

I see no reason to avoid a tackcloth. I have never had a problem with it in
the last 25 years.


So, if tackcloths are out and I don't want to make my own as you
describe, what about wiping off the wood with mineral spirits, thinner,
or alcohol?

In some cases like when using an open grained wood like Red Oak, the liquid
used can actually cause the pores to fill with sanding dust and cause an
uneven appearance.


Do these raise the grain and require light resanding after
use as water does?

Petrolium pased products do not raise the grain like water does.


I don't like the idea of having to sand again AFTER
wiping sawdust off with water -- it seems like an endless cycle --
water -- sand -- water -- sand...

I would not either. You are apparently wetting down too many times. Sand
through all your grits and then lightly apply water to raise the grain.
Then do a final light sanding to remove the fuzz. This most often will be
all you will need to do before applying a water based finish.

I prefer to use compressed air over anything to remove the dust of the
project and out of the pores of the wood.

wrote in message


use as water does? I don't like the idea of having to sand again AFTER
wiping sawdust off with water -- it seems like an endless cycle --
water -- sand -- water -- sand...

That's one of the reasons JOAT's wooddorking gods invented air compressors.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 11/06/05

In article .com,
wrote:

Mineral spirits does (do?) not

So if you have more than one, is it Minerals Spirit? Minerals Spirits?
Or Mineral Spiritses?
--
Owen Lowe
The Fly-by-Night Copper Company
__________

"I pledge allegiance to the flag of the
Corporate States of America and to the
Republicans for which it stands, one nation,
under debt, easily divisible, with liberty
and justice for oil."
- Wiley Miller, Non Sequitur, 1/24/05

Thanks, what I'm getting at is that after I wetted and sanded I've got
a little bit more sawdust in/on the wood. I've got to get rid of that,
somehow.

BTW, no air compressor here -- wish I did have one.

Leon wrote:



I see no reason to avoid a tackcloth. I have never had a problem with it in
the last 25 years.



I prefer to use compressed air over anything to remove the dust of the
project and out of the pores of the wood.



Never had some fibers embed themselves in the wood?

Me too--on using compressed air. It REALLY cleans dust out of the pores!

Dave

Leon wrote:

I prefer to use compressed air over anything to remove the dust of the
project and out of the pores of the wood.

Leon,

Is your compressor an oil-lubed or an airless? And if it's an
oil-lubed, do you have an oil filter on it? I've heard that an
oil-lubed filter can spray minute quantities of oil which can cause
problems with the finish.

I just bought a small (read: cheap) oil-lubed myself, and I've been
hesitant to do what you describe for fear of what I just described.

Am I worrying too much?

Thanks.

CORRECTION:

The above should have been:

"I've heard that an oil-lubed *compressor* can spray minute quantities
of oil..."

Filters almost never do any spraying themselves...

wrote:

Leon wrote:


I prefer to use compressed air over anything to remove the dust of the
project and out of the pores of the wood.


Leon,

Is your compressor an oil-lubed or an airless? And if it's an
oil-lubed, do you have an oil filter on it? I've heard that an
oil-lubed filter can spray minute quantities of oil which can cause
problems with the finish.

I just bought a small (read: cheap) oil-lubed myself, and I've been
hesitant to do what you describe for fear of what I just described.

Am I worrying too much?

Thanks.

Yes. I use my oil lubed (and filtered) compressor to blow off projects
before and during finishing operations. Unless there's a serious
problem with oil contamination of the lines, you shouldn't have problem.

Silicone contamination is even worse than minute particles of oil.

Dave

wrote in message
oups.com...
CORRECTION:

The above should have been:

"I've heard that an oil-lubed *compressor* can spray minute quantities
of oil..."

Filters almost never do any spraying themselves...

you can put an oil/water trap somewhere in your airline to alleviate that
problem.

Converting to waterbased finishes has raised a whole bunch of issues.
I was raised with oil based stuff and was happier than I was when
waterbased shtuff first came to California. People have reported
contamination from tack cloths, presumed by me to mean WB finishes
instead of oil based. My suggestion was based on what I believe to be
a Jeff Jewitt suggestion for possible win-win use of expired shellac.
Avoid off the shelf tack cloth and avoid dumping expired shellac down
the drain. Makers of finishes have made GREAT leaps in their finishes
and oil based shtuff is out of my inventory. I don't use waxy shellac
as dewaxed is more universal as an undercoat and anything can be used
on top. Furthermore this is Thursday.

On Thu, 01 Dec 2005 16:21:25 GMT, "Leon"
wrote:

wrote in message
roups.com...
I had asked this in the long thread I had going but decided to pull it
out of there into this subject specific post.

In the other thread, someone had warned me against using tackcloth and
had advised me to make my own using old shellac. I responded with:

I see no reason to avoid a tackcloth. I have never had a problem with it in
the last 25 years.

Try wiping off the dust with your non-slip router mat. Shake the mat
after each wipe.

wrote in message
oups.com...

In the other thread, someone had warned me against using tackcloth and
had advised me to make my own using old shellac. I responded with:


Tack cloths are not out. Probably more of us use them than make their own.
The prevailing theory of those who rail against tack cloth are that they
can't crowbar the 99cents out of their wallet to buy one. I am curious
about giving a newbie the advice about making one out of old shellac. How
much old shellac do you happen to have lying around your place, rbrandywine?

Uh, well not a lot. ;-)

So, if tackcloths are out and I don't want to make my own as you
describe, what about wiping off the wood with mineral spirits, thinner,
or alcohol? Do these raise the grain and require light resanding after
use as water does? I don't like the idea of having to sand again AFTER
wiping sawdust off with water -- it seems like an endless cycle --
water -- sand -- water -- sand...

I generally use mineral spirits if I will use varnish. With oil, nothing is
necessary.

Are you saying you go water--light sanding--mineral spirits when
applying varnish? That makes sense, if it works. But why wouldn't an
oil finish require the same treatment? Is it because the oil flows
through any small amount of sawdust *on* the wood and sinks into the
wood?

wrote in message
oups.com...
Thanks, what I'm getting at is that after I wetted and sanded I've got
a little bit more sawdust in/on the wood. I've got to get rid of that,
somehow.

BTW, no air compressor here -- wish I did have one.


Blow it or tack rag it.

wrote in message
ups.com...

Leon wrote:

I prefer to use compressed air over anything to remove the dust of the
project and out of the pores of the wood.

Leon,

Is your compressor an oil-lubed or an airless? And if it's an
oil-lubed, do you have an oil filter on it? I've heard that an
oil-lubed filter can spray minute quantities of oil which can cause
problems with the finish.

Oil lubed. I have never had oil come out of the hose. More often I have a
problem with moisture condensing inside the hose and spraying on the wood
but that is only a slight mist and quickly evaporates.
IMHO your finish will probably hide/blend with, any specs of oil if any
comes out.

I just bought a small (read: cheap) oil-lubed myself, and I've been
hesitant to do what you describe for fear of what I just described.

Am I worrying too much?

Probably, I never have had that problem.

wrote in message
oups.com...
Are you saying you go water--light sanding--mineral spirits when
applying varnish? That makes sense, if it works. But why wouldn't an
oil finish require the same treatment? Is it because the oil flows
through any small amount of sawdust *on* the wood and sinks into the
wood?

That is correct.
Oil does not form a film, so any dust just comes off with the oil rag. It
is cleaning and applying at the same time.
Some people like to sand while the oil is fresh, thinking the dust fills
pores; but authorities say it comes out as fast as it goes in.

That's great! Either way I go now, varnish or oil, I've got a
reasonable method for cleaning the wood up before finishing.

wrote in message
oups.com...
I had asked this in the long thread I had going but decided to pull it
out of there into this subject specific post.

In the other thread, someone had warned me against using tackcloth and
had advised me to make my own using old shellac. I responded with:

So, if tackcloths are out and I don't want to make my own as you
describe, what about wiping off the wood with mineral spirits, thinner,
or alcohol? Do these raise the grain and require light resanding after
use as water does? I don't like the idea of having to sand again AFTER
wiping sawdust off with water -- it seems like an endless cycle --
water -- sand -- water -- sand...

And then there is a product called a SANDING SEALER in case you aren't
confused enough.
wrote in message
oups.com...
I had asked this in the long thread I had going but decided to pull it
out of there into this subject specific post.

In the other thread, someone had warned me against using tackcloth and
had advised me to make my own using old shellac. I responded with:

So, if tackcloths are out and I don't want to make my own as you
describe, what about wiping off the wood with mineral spirits, thinner,
or alcohol? Do these raise the grain and require light resanding after
use as water does? I don't like the idea of having to sand again AFTER
wiping sawdust off with water -- it seems like an endless cycle --
water -- sand -- water -- sand...

On Thu, 1 Dec 2005 10:23:38 -0600, "Swingman"
scribbled:

wrote in message

use as water does? I don't like the idea of having to sand again AFTER
wiping sawdust off with water -- it seems like an endless cycle --
water -- sand -- water -- sand...

That's one of the reasons JOAT's wooddorking gods invented air compressors.

Or Shopvacs with a blowing attachment.

Luigi
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/humour.html
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/antifaq.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikiped...ct_Woodworking

wrote:
I had asked this in the long thread I had going but decided to pull it
out of there into this subject specific post.

In the other thread, someone had warned me against using tackcloth and
had advised me to make my own using old shellac. I responded with:

So, if tackcloths are out and I don't want to make my own as you
describe, what about wiping off the wood with mineral spirits, thinner,
or alcohol? Do these raise the grain and require light resanding after
use as water does? I don't like the idea of having to sand again AFTER
wiping sawdust off with water -- it seems like an endless cycle --
water -- sand -- water -- sand...

My projects are small, so I just use a shop vac with a soft brush. I
only tried tack cloth once a few years back and maybe it was just the
brand that I got but it was loaded with gunk that came right off on the
wood (do you use tack cloth right after you open it or is it supposed
to be exposed to air for a while? )

That's a very good question somewildmon -- I'll be interested in
hearing the answer.

I've heard of sanding sealer and will read up on it here but I'm trying
to keep this simple as I've got a LOT of wood to finish.

nospambob wrote:

...

Avoid off the shelf tack cloth and avoid dumping expired shellac down
the drain. ...

I presume yopu meant that figuratively. IMHE mixing shellac with
water immediately hardens the shellac. Not the sort of thing you
want to happen in the trap below your drain.

--

FF

wrote in message

nospambob wrote:

...

Avoid off the shelf tack cloth and avoid dumping expired shellac down
the drain. ...

I presume yopu meant that figuratively. IMHE mixing shellac with
water immediately hardens the shellac. Not the sort of thing you
want to happen in the trap below your drain.

You're right ... but use hot water and household ammonia if you do happen to
be cleaning up shellac equipment in the sink. That way you will have a
better chance of surviving a SWMBO's wrath.


--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 11/06/05

Hello,
I use those pastel dusting cloths with the surface with all the cut
fibers. I looked on one but did not see a brand name. They hold an
amazing amount of dust can be cleaned over and over. . Especially good
for final wiping before finishing. I was using used dryer sheets. I
do a lot of spray finishing and they seems to work well, get very
smooth surfaces.
I also use a compressor which works fairly well but seldom seems to get
the last bit of dust. Sometimes I use a vacuum with a soft brush.
Don't use tack cloths anymore.

Mike R

By pastel dusting cloths do you mean something like Swiffer Sweeps? I
think I may try those, too. I'm guessing that if a tackcloth *does*
put a little oil on the wood that a quick wipe with mineral spirits
would clean it up.

Appreciate the follow up info! I seldom have surplus shellac and it
was figuratively.

On Fri, 2 Dec 2005 08:34:06 -0600, "Swingman" wrote:


wrote in message

nospambob wrote:

...

Avoid off the shelf tack cloth and avoid dumping expired shellac down
the drain. ...

I presume yopu meant that figuratively. IMHE mixing shellac with
water immediately hardens the shellac. Not the sort of thing you
want to happen in the trap below your drain.

You're right ... but use hot water and household ammonia if you do happen to
be cleaning up shellac equipment in the sink. That way you will have a
better chance of surviving a SWMBO's wrath.

I was just having a quick re-read of all the replies here. I'm a
little confused, now, about the use of water -- I thought you *had* to
use it to raise the grain at some point in the finishing process. But
-- it's almost sounding as if you only need to do that if you are about
to apply a water-based finish (which I'm not). Is that correct?

With oil-based products do you just use mineral spirits?

On 5 Dec 2005 04:58:23 -0800, scribbled:

I was just having a quick re-read of all the replies here. I'm a
little confused, now, about the use of water -- I thought you *had* to
use it to raise the grain at some point in the finishing process. But
-- it's almost sounding as if you only need to do that if you are about
to apply a water-based finish (which I'm not). Is that correct?

Yes. If you don't deliberately do it before, water-based finishes will
raise the grain.

With oil-based products do you just use mineral spirits?
Oil-based products do not raise the gain, so there is no need to raise
to do it.

Luigi
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/humour.html
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/antifaq.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikiped...ct_Woodworking

"Luigi Zanasi" wrote in message
...
On 5 Dec 2005 04:58:23 -0800, scribbled:

I was just having a quick re-read of all the replies here. I'm a
little confused, now, about the use of water -- I thought you *had* to
use it to raise the grain at some point in the finishing process. But
-- it's almost sounding as if you only need to do that if you are about
to apply a water-based finish (which I'm not). Is that correct?

Yes. If you don't deliberately do it before, water-based finishes will
raise the grain.

With oil-based products do you just use mineral spirits?
Oil-based products do not raise the gain, so there is no need to raise
to do it.

Though you'd still be wise to do it. If nothing else, it highlights loose
glue and sanding faults to give you a second chance.

Thanks, I'll try both ways and see what results I get.

Actually, on 2nd thought, I'll just clean with mineral spirits -- to
keep things simple and save some time at the expense of some money.

On Tue, 6 Dec 2005 07:00:01 -0500, "George" George@least scribbled:


"Luigi Zanasi" wrote in message
.. .
On 5 Dec 2005 04:58:23 -0800, scribbled:

I was just having a quick re-read of all the replies here. I'm a
little confused, now, about the use of water -- I thought you *had* to
use it to raise the grain at some point in the finishing process. But
-- it's almost sounding as if you only need to do that if you are about
to apply a water-based finish (which I'm not). Is that correct?

Yes. If you don't deliberately do it before, water-based finishes will
raise the grain.

With oil-based products do you just use mineral spirits?
Oil-based products do not raise the gain, so there is no need to raise
to do it.

Though you'd still be wise to do it. If nothing else, it highlights loose
glue and sanding faults to give you a second chance.

True. Wiping with mineral spirits does give you an idea what it will
look like when finished, so you can fix things if needed. But it won't
raise the grain.

Luigi
Replace "nonet" with "yukonomics" for real email address
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/humour.html
www.yukonomics.ca/wooddorking/antifaq.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wikiped...ct_Woodworking