I have completed building a large red oak entertainment center and am
ready to stain and finish it. It is made out of 3/4' plywood carcase,
1/4" backs and solid 3/4" faceframes. I took a scrap piece of each and
the stain came out slightly different on each piece. The 1/4" has a
redder tint than the other material and the 3/4" is slightly lighter
than the solid faceframes. I applied 3 cotes on the 3/4" ply to try and
get the same as the one coat on the solid faceframe but no luck.
I realize that each type of material comes from different trees so there
will likely be a variation. Do I correct this by simply custom mixing
for each of the 3 different types of wood material so they come out the
same or is there a different fix?

Thanks

keith

"Keith Boeheim" wrote in message
...
I have completed building a large red oak entertainment center and am ready
to stain and finish it. It is made out of 3/4' plywood carcase, 1/4" backs
and solid 3/4" faceframes. I took a scrap piece of each and the stain came
out slightly different on each piece. The 1/4" has a redder tint than the
other material and the 3/4" is slightly lighter than the solid faceframes.
I applied 3 cotes on the 3/4" ply to try and get the same as the one coat
on the solid faceframe but no luck.
I realize that each type of material comes from different trees so there
will likely be a variation. Do I correct this by simply custom mixing for
each of the 3 different types of wood material so they come out the same
or is there a different fix?


Be sure to sand your scraps before staining as plywood typically will tend
to come out a darker shade than regular solid wood. I do this all the time
and really find little difference I color or shade. Are you using a good
quality stain? You might also switch to a gel stain to get more consistent
color results.

Leon wrote:
"Keith Boeheim" wrote in message
...

I have completed building a large red oak entertainment center and am ready
to stain and finish it. It is made out of 3/4' plywood carcase, 1/4" backs
and solid 3/4" faceframes. I took a scrap piece of each and the stain came
out slightly different on each piece. The 1/4" has a redder tint than the
other material and the 3/4" is slightly lighter than the solid faceframes.
I applied 3 cotes on the 3/4" ply to try and get the same as the one coat
on the solid faceframe but no luck.
I realize that each type of material comes from different trees so there
will likely be a variation. Do I correct this by simply custom mixing for
each of the 3 different types of wood material so they come out the same
or is there a different fix?



Be sure to sand your scraps before staining as plywood typically will tend
to come out a darker shade than regular solid wood. I do this all the time
and really find little difference I color or shade. Are you using a good
quality stain? You might also switch to a gel stain to get more consistent
color results.


I sanded both the project and the scraps with 150 grit and am using
minwax oil stain.

keith

"Keith Boeheim" wrote in message
...
Leon wrote:
"Keith Boeheim" wrote in message
...

I have completed building a large red oak entertainment center and am
ready to stain and finish it. It is made out of 3/4' plywood carcase,
1/4" backs and solid 3/4" faceframes. I took a scrap piece of each and
the stain came out slightly different on each piece. The 1/4" has a
redder tint than the other material and the 3/4" is slightly lighter than
the solid faceframes. I applied 3 cotes on the 3/4" ply to try and get
the same as the one coat on the solid faceframe but no luck.
I realize that each type of material comes from different trees so there
will likely be a variation. Do I correct this by simply custom mixing for
each of the 3 different types of wood material so they come out the same
or is there a different fix?



Be sure to sand your scraps before staining as plywood typically will
tend to come out a darker shade than regular solid wood. I do this all
the time and really find little difference I color or shade. Are you
using a good quality stain? You might also switch to a gel stain to get
more consistent color results.
I sanded both the project and the scraps with 150 grit and am using minwax
oil stain.


I always go to 180 grit and avoid Miniwax stains and finishes like the
plague as I always get inconsistent results even on the same piece of wood.
I prefer General Finishes, Bartley finishes, and Zar products, in that
order.

What do you think about Varithene stains?


"Leon" wrote in message
om...

"Keith Boeheim" wrote in message
...
Leon wrote:
"Keith Boeheim" wrote in message
...

I have completed building a large red oak entertainment center and am
ready to stain and finish it. It is made out of 3/4' plywood carcase,
1/4" backs and solid 3/4" faceframes. I took a scrap piece of each and
the stain came out slightly different on each piece. The 1/4" has a
redder tint than the other material and the 3/4" is slightly lighter
than the solid faceframes. I applied 3 cotes on the 3/4" ply to try and
get the same as the one coat on the solid faceframe but no luck.
I realize that each type of material comes from different trees so there
will likely be a variation. Do I correct this by simply custom mixing
for each of the 3 different types of wood material so they come out the
same or is there a different fix?



Be sure to sand your scraps before staining as plywood typically will
tend to come out a darker shade than regular solid wood. I do this all
the time and really find little difference I color or shade. Are you
using a good quality stain? You might also switch to a gel stain to get
more consistent color results.
I sanded both the project and the scraps with 150 grit and am using
minwax oil stain.


I always go to 180 grit and avoid Miniwax stains and finishes like the
plague as I always get inconsistent results even on the same piece of
wood.
I prefer General Finishes, Bartley finishes, and Zar products, in that
order.