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#1
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poly finish for butchblock top?
we've got a cheap Ikea butcherblock island in the kitchen that's never
been right since we've owned it. we've applied mineral oil to the surface maybe 10 times. it soaks right in and the top still feels rough, never finished smooth. plus, spill coffee on it, or anything else, and no matter how fast you wipe it up, you've got a stain left behind. my wife is sick of it and wants to sand down the surface and polyurethane the damn thing, be done with it. how's that sound? okay for food prep work and liquids? if okay, might anyone suggest a brand of poly and # of coats? and what about Behlen's Rock Hard Table Top Varnish? i read about that somewhere. has anyone used it? thanks! |
#2
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poly finish for butchblock top?
flipper wrote:
we've got a cheap Ikea butcherblock island in the kitchen that's never been right since we've owned it. we've applied mineral oil to the surface maybe 10 times. it soaks right in So stop using mineral oil and use something that will set up and seal. Like boiled linseed oil. _______________ and the top still feels rough, never finished smooth. Ever thought of sanding it? ____________________ plus, spill coffee on it, or anything else, and no matter how fast you wipe it up, you've got a stain left behind. my wife is sick of it and wants to sand down the surface and polyurethane the damn thing, be done with it. how's that sound? Of little use if you cut on it. __________________ and what about Behlen's Rock Hard Table Top Varnish? Epoxy would last longer (way thicker) http://www.uscomposites.com/ -- dadiOH ____________________________ dadiOH's dandies v3.06... ....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that. Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico |
#3
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poly finish for butchblock top?
If you poly the thing, it will show every knife mark and will still stain
where the poly was cut. Mineral oil will not produce a finish as, apparently, you are looking for. Decide if you want a cutting board or table top. If a cutting board, live with it as it is. If a tabletop, sand and finish it then DON'T cut on it. "flipper" wrote in message oups.com... we've got a cheap Ikea butcherblock island in the kitchen that's never been right since we've owned it. we've applied mineral oil to the surface maybe 10 times. it soaks right in and the top still feels rough, never finished smooth. plus, spill coffee on it, or anything else, and no matter how fast you wipe it up, you've got a stain left behind. my wife is sick of it and wants to sand down the surface and polyurethane the damn thing, be done with it. how's that sound? okay for food prep work and liquids? if okay, might anyone suggest a brand of poly and # of coats? and what about Behlen's Rock Hard Table Top Varnish? i read about that somewhere. has anyone used it? thanks! |
#4
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poly finish for butchblock top?
I would be very careful of the finish you use. There are significant
health considerations associated with the type of finish, IT MUST BE NON_TOXIC. Petroleum based products could result in health problems. I would also be concerned with Poly.. Mineral oil would still be my choice, perhaps other types of vegetable oil products would work better. You did not mention the type of wood used for the butcher block top. Maple is traditional because it is very hard, is closed grain, and dense. These features are ideal for butcher block tops because there have small pores, in the wood, thereby providing fewer spaces for contaminants. Good Luck, Let us know what you come up with. |
#5
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poly finish for butchblock top?
Any finish, once cured, is non toxic.
"Buckwheat" wrote in message ps.com... I would be very careful of the finish you use. There are significant health considerations associated with the type of finish, IT MUST BE NON_TOXIC. Petroleum based products could result in health problems. I would also be concerned with Poly.. Mineral oil would still be my choice, perhaps other types of vegetable oil products would work better. You did not mention the type of wood used for the butcher block top. Maple is traditional because it is very hard, is closed grain, and dense. These features are ideal for butcher block tops because there have small pores, in the wood, thereby providing fewer spaces for contaminants. Good Luck, Let us know what you come up with. |
#6
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poly finish for butchblock top?
First, sand it. Then use a salad bowl or butcher block finish. General
finishes make a few, or I've used equal parts of beeswax and mineral oil melted together. I applied it hot and let it soak in for a bit before buffing it out. Worked well for what I wanted. You may also want to check out a few other resources like: http://www.woodfinishsupply.com/butcherblock.html or http://www.woodzone.com/refinishing_butcher_block.htm or http://whatscookingamerica.net/Q-A/ButcherBlock.htm or the most useful of them all: http://www.just****inggoogleit.com/ "flipper" wrote in message oups.com... we've got a cheap Ikea butcherblock island in the kitchen that's never been right since we've owned it. we've applied mineral oil to the surface maybe 10 times. it soaks right in and the top still feels rough, never finished smooth. plus, spill coffee on it, or anything else, and no matter how fast you wipe it up, you've got a stain left behind. my wife is sick of it and wants to sand down the surface and polyurethane the damn thing, be done with it. how's that sound? okay for food prep work and liquids? if okay, might anyone suggest a brand of poly and # of coats? and what about Behlen's Rock Hard Table Top Varnish? i read about that somewhere. has anyone used it? thanks! |
#7
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poly finish for butchblock top?
wrote in message ... On 13 Nov 2005 05:19:19 -0800, "flipper" wrote: we've got a cheap Ikea butcherblock island in the kitchen that's never been right since we've owned it. we've applied mineral oil to the surface maybe 10 times. it soaks right in and the top still feels rough, never finished smooth. plus, spill coffee on it, or anything else, and no matter how fast you wipe it up, you've got a stain left behind. my wife is sick of it and wants to sand down the surface and polyurethane the damn thing, be done with it. how's that sound? okay for food prep work and liquids? if okay, might anyone suggest a brand of poly and # of coats? and what about Behlen's Rock Hard Table Top Varnish? i read about that somewhere. has anyone used it? thanks! If you are not using it as a cutting board poly is fine I'm betting that all that mineral oil he put on it will keep the finish from adhering properly. Even if he gets something that looks decent now, first sunny day could bring it right up. No amount of siccative is going to cure mineral oil. Might be best to burnish the surface with 400/600 paper, then heat beeswax into it with a rubbing pad on a vibrating sander and settle for low luster. Beeswax is an excellent antibacterial, in case you want to use the beast, though I'd use a cutting board with the BB as a table, myself. Option two to assuage SWMBO would be to warm the thing with an iron over two-three thicknesses of paper toweling until it's no longer bleeding oil, then a detergent wash and sand. Thinned poly to get some footing in the wood for the first coat. |
#8
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poly finish for butchblock top?
wrote in message ... On Mon, 14 Nov 2005 07:17:47 -0500, "George" George@least wrote: wrote in message If you are not using it as a cutting board poly is fine I'm betting that all that mineral oil he put on it will keep the finish from adhering properly. Even if he gets something that looks decent now, first sunny day could bring it right up. No amount of siccative is going to cure mineral oil. Wipe it down well with minerral spirits and use thinned poly for the first couple coats. It will do fine. I did an Edsal work bench top that was soaked in tung oil. Tung is a curing organic oil. Different animal altogether. Same siccatives that catalyze the poly will do the same for any uncured tung. |
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