So part of my buddy's fence collapsed last week. Being a sucker for
people in need, I volunteered my services.

Here's my (our) dilemma:

The original fence builders placed one of the fence posts further than
8 feet from the previous post. We'd gotten off easy by using prebuilt
fence panels from Lowes until this point. These panels are WRC dog
eared planks attached (nailed of course, why don't people screw these
in?) to three pressure treated rails, and you guessed it, they are 8
feet long. So the problem is, I can't find this weird dimensioned
rails anywhere, so I'm looking at ripping some PT 2x4s to length and
height.

My questions:

Is it a good idea to rip PT on my table saw (everything I've heard says
no)?

If not, anyone have any good ideas on how to accurately rip some PT
2x4s to size using a circ saw or possibly a jig saw (don't have a
bandsaw yet)?

The goal here is obviously an accurately and safely milled rail.
However, I'd like to do my best to keep this dust outta my lungs and
shop.

Thanks!

In article .com,
AggieSawDust wrote:

The goal here is obviously an accurately and safely milled rail.
However, I'd like to do my best to keep this dust outta my lungs and
shop.

Two questions, & two points...

What do you mean by "length and height"?

You can buy PT 1X and plywood. They may work.

If your saw is stationary, do you know someone with a benchtop that you
could use outside?

To do it with a circ saw, I'd think you're looking at building a jig
from a sheet of ply and a straight edge.

--
Life. Nature's way of keeping meat fresh. -- Dr. Who

AggieSawDust wrote:

So part of my buddy's fence collapsed last week. Being a sucker for
people in need, I volunteered my services.

Here's my (our) dilemma:

The original fence builders placed one of the fence posts further than
8 feet from the previous post. We'd gotten off easy by using prebuilt
fence panels from Lowes until this point. These panels are WRC dog
eared planks attached (nailed of course, why don't people screw these
in?) to three pressure treated rails, and you guessed it, they are 8
feet long. So the problem is, I can't find this weird dimensioned
rails anywhere, so I'm looking at ripping some PT 2x4s to length and
height.

My questions:

Is it a good idea to rip PT on my table saw (everything I've heard says
no)?

If not, anyone have any good ideas on how to accurately rip some PT
2x4s to size using a circ saw or possibly a jig saw (don't have a
bandsaw yet)?

The goal here is obviously an accurately and safely milled rail.
However, I'd like to do my best to keep this dust outta my lungs and
shop.

Thanks!

Could you tell your buddy that you underestimated the issues involved,
due to the health risk, etc. I wouldn't breathe that stuff and run it
through my shop equipment just to be neighborly!!

Dave

Sorry, I typo'd length (as that would be a cross cut). I meant height
and width. The rails are 1 1/8" wide by 2 5/8" tall... I need longer
than 8 feet.

I have been unable to find 1x PT... that would definitely work.

I do have a stationary cabinet saw... don't know anyone with a
benchtop.

I was trying to work out some plans for a jig for a circ saw. Just
curious if anyone has had to do something similar with out a TS.

On 4 Oct 2005 19:06:20 -0700, "AggieSawDust"
wrote:

So part of my buddy's fence collapsed last week. Being a sucker for
people in need, I volunteered my services.

Here's my (our) dilemma:

The original fence builders placed one of the fence posts further than
8 feet from the previous post. We'd gotten off easy by using prebuilt
fence panels from Lowes until this point. These panels are WRC dog
eared planks attached (nailed of course, why don't people screw these
in?) to three pressure treated rails, and you guessed it, they are 8
feet long. So the problem is, I can't find this weird dimensioned
rails anywhere, so I'm looking at ripping some PT 2x4s to length and
height.

My questions:

Is it a good idea to rip PT on my table saw (everything I've heard says
no)?

If not, anyone have any good ideas on how to accurately rip some PT
2x4s to size using a circ saw or possibly a jig saw (don't have a
bandsaw yet)?

The goal here is obviously an accurately and safely milled rail.
However, I'd like to do my best to keep this dust outta my lungs and
shop.

Thanks!

Make the cuts outdoors. I use a circular saw + respirator. My major
issue with PT lumber is that it is so wet--as it dries it cups,
twists, bows. I get around this by stickering, clamping. and LOTS of
patience!

AggieSawDust wrote:

Sorry, I typo'd length (as that would be a cross cut). I meant height
and width. The rails are 1 1/8" wide by 2 5/8" tall... I need longer
than 8 feet.

I have been unable to find 1x PT... that would definitely work.

I do have a stationary cabinet saw... don't know anyone with a
benchtop.

I was trying to work out some plans for a jig for a circ saw. Just
curious if anyone has had to do something similar with out a TS.

Any decent lumber yard will have whatever you want in 1x in 1x4, x6, x8
up to 14 ft lengths and 1x4 and 1x6 probably up to 16'.

But, I don't ken what dimensions for a rail are "wide" and "tall"--I can
think of "thick" and "wide", but not "tall". And neither of the
dimensions you provide matches a standard 1x thickness which would be
3/4" nominally.

What's the deal w/ cutting the stuff, anyway? I do it any time I need
to and it does nothing bad to the equipment whatsoever. Simply don't
leave a piece laying on a table overnight and clean up piles of damp
sawdust and you'll never know the difference.

On 4 Oct 2005 19:18:30 -0700, "AggieSawDust"
wrote:

Sorry, I typo'd length (as that would be a cross cut). I meant height
and width. The rails are 1 1/8" wide by 2 5/8" tall... I need longer
than 8 feet.

I have been unable to find 1x PT... that would definitely work.

I do have a stationary cabinet saw... don't know anyone with a
benchtop.

I was trying to work out some plans for a jig for a circ saw. Just
curious if anyone has had to do something similar with out a TS.


if you rip a pressure treated 2x4 in half you will expose the
untreated core, defeating the purpose of the pressure treatment.

the rest of the fence is western red cedar, right? why not use that?

s wrote:

On 4 Oct 2005 19:18:30 -0700, "AggieSawDust"
wrote:

Sorry, I typo'd length (as that would be a cross cut). I meant height
and width. The rails are 1 1/8" wide by 2 5/8" tall... I need longer
than 8 feet.

I have been unable to find 1x PT... that would definitely work.

I do have a stationary cabinet saw... don't know anyone with a
benchtop.

I was trying to work out some plans for a jig for a circ saw. Just
curious if anyone has had to do something similar with out a TS.

if you rip a pressure treated 2x4 in half you will expose the
untreated core, defeating the purpose of the pressure treatment.

That's the point of the pressure treatment to impregnate the material
through and through...

On Tue, 04 Oct 2005 21:46:56 -0500, Duane Bozarth
wrote:

wrote:

On 4 Oct 2005 19:18:30 -0700, "AggieSawDust"
wrote:

Sorry, I typo'd length (as that would be a cross cut). I meant height
and width. The rails are 1 1/8" wide by 2 5/8" tall... I need longer
than 8 feet.

I have been unable to find 1x PT... that would definitely work.

I do have a stationary cabinet saw... don't know anyone with a
benchtop.

I was trying to work out some plans for a jig for a circ saw. Just
curious if anyone has had to do something similar with out a TS.

if you rip a pressure treated 2x4 in half you will expose the
untreated core, defeating the purpose of the pressure treatment.

That's the point of the pressure treatment to impregnate the material
through and through...


having been a carpenter for lotsa years I've cut my share of it.

maybe a couple of times I've seen pieces where the treatment made it
to the center. most of the time it's 1/4" or less deep.

"AggieSawDust" wrote in message
oups.com...
So part of my buddy's fence collapsed last week. Being a sucker for
people in need, I volunteered my services.

Here's my (our) dilemma:

The original fence builders placed one of the fence posts further than
8 feet from the previous post. We'd gotten off easy by using prebuilt
fence panels from Lowes until this point. These panels are WRC dog
eared planks attached (nailed of course, why don't people screw these
in?) to three pressure treated rails, and you guessed it, they are 8
feet long. So the problem is, I can't find this weird dimensioned
rails anywhere, so I'm looking at ripping some PT 2x4s to length and
height.

My questions:

Is it a good idea to rip PT on my table saw (everything I've heard says
no)?

If not, anyone have any good ideas on how to accurately rip some PT
2x4s to size using a circ saw or possibly a jig saw (don't have a
bandsaw yet)?

The goal here is obviously an accurately and safely milled rail.
However, I'd like to do my best to keep this dust outta my lungs and
shop.

Thanks!


I saw Norm rip PT in his shop all the time and I've done it a few times
myself. Don't know about the new stuff that would eat up nails. You don't
need PT if its not on/in the ground or subjected to standing water and you
could treat it with a copper solution after you've ripped the non PT.

I've ripped some PT on my table saw a few times and I'm still alive.
Seriously, for cutting just the 3 rails you need for one fence section
I wouldn't be overly concerned. Take all the precautions you can to
minimize airborne dust and wear a good respirator.


--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland

On Tue, 04 Oct 2005 21:46:56 -0500, Duane Bozarth
wrote:

wrote:

On 4 Oct 2005 19:18:30 -0700, "AggieSawDust"
wrote:

Sorry, I typo'd length (as that would be a cross cut). I meant height
and width. The rails are 1 1/8" wide by 2 5/8" tall... I need longer
than 8 feet.

I have been unable to find 1x PT... that would definitely work.

I do have a stationary cabinet saw... don't know anyone with a
benchtop.

I was trying to work out some plans for a jig for a circ saw. Just
curious if anyone has had to do something similar with out a TS.

if you rip a pressure treated 2x4 in half you will expose the
untreated core, defeating the purpose of the pressure treatment.

That's the point of the pressure treatment to impregnate the material
through and through...

Doesn't happen.

In article ,
wrote:
having been a carpenter for lotsa years I've cut my share of it.

maybe a couple of times I've seen pieces where the treatment made it
to the center. most of the time it's 1/4" or less deep.

If the OP buys good quality, SYP PT lumber it will be treated all the
way through. I've seen some old PT that wasn't and some PT that wasn't
southern yellow pine that wasn't treated all the way through, but at
least here in Md, all the SYP PT stocked at HD and at lumber yards
for the last 15 years or more has always been treated to the center.
(At least it appears so visually)



--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland

Lawrence Wasserman wrote:
I've ripped some PT on my table saw a few times and I'm still alive.
Seriously, for cutting just the 3 rails you need for one fence section
I wouldn't be overly concerned. Take all the precautions you can to
minimize airborne dust and wear a good respirator.


Was it wet and clog up the insides of your TS? I spent quite a bit of
time removing the very wet sawdust from the tilt mechanism after ripping
a few wet 2x4's.


Dave

AggieSawDust wrote:
So part of my buddy's fence collapsed last week. Being a sucker for

... I can't find this weird dimensioned
rails anywhere, so I'm looking at ripping some PT 2x4s to length and
height.

My questions:

Is it a good idea to rip PT on my table saw (everything I've heard says
no)?

If not, anyone have any good ideas on how to accurately rip some PT
2x4s to size using a circ saw or possibly a jig saw (don't have a
bandsaw yet)?



I ripped a bevel on a PT SYP 4 x 4 for a neighbor using a circular
saw with a fence.

I have since convinced my beighbor to constrain his designs to
use standard widths and thicknesses.

It can be done but:

1) It generates a lot of sawdust.

2) To the extent that PT puts more wear on a blade, ripping
puts a lot more on.

3) Not all PT is completely treated all the way through. Yes,
it is all SUPPOSED to be.

--

FF

In article ,
David wrote:
Lawrence Wasserman wrote:
I've ripped some PT on my table saw a few times and I'm still alive.
Seriously, for cutting just the 3 rails you need for one fence section
I wouldn't be overly concerned. Take all the precautions you can to
minimize airborne dust and wear a good respirator.


Was it wet and clog up the insides of your TS? I spent quite a bit of
time removing the very wet sawdust from the tilt mechanism after ripping
a few wet 2x4's.


Dave

Now that you mention it, I have a small stack of PT lumber stored
under my front porch. Most of it is 2-3 years old. I'd certainly be
leery of using "fresh" PT because of the moisture.


--

Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland

AggieSawDust wrote:
So part of my buddy's fence collapsed last week. Being a sucker for
people in need, I volunteered my services.

Here's my (our) dilemma:

The original fence builders placed one of the fence posts further than
8 feet from the previous post. We'd gotten off easy by using prebuilt
fence panels from Lowes until this point. These panels are WRC dog
eared planks attached (nailed of course, why don't people screw these
in?) to three pressure treated rails, and you guessed it, they are 8
feet long. So the problem is, I can't find this weird dimensioned
rails anywhere, so I'm looking at ripping some PT 2x4s to length and
height.

My questions:

Is it a good idea to rip PT on my table saw (everything I've heard says
no)?

If not, anyone have any good ideas on how to accurately rip some PT
2x4s to size using a circ saw or possibly a jig saw (don't have a
bandsaw yet)?

The goal here is obviously an accurately and safely milled rail.
However, I'd like to do my best to keep this dust outta my lungs and
shop.

Thanks!


Sink another post at the 8' mark.

--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA

(Remove -SPAM- to send email)

On 4 Oct 2005 19:06:20 -0700, "AggieSawDust"
wrote:


Is it a good idea to rip PT on my table saw (everything I've heard says
no)?



I frame all my duck blinds with PT 2X4 ripped in half to nominal 2X2.
Been doing it for 30 years. I use a circular saw with the standard
edge guide, carbide tipped blade, do it out doors and wear a mask. It
works fine. Yeh, the stuff is usually wet. Yeh, it will tend to warp.
Make your cut, nail or screw it up, and hope the weight of the fence
boards keep the warp to a minimum This is not precision work! It's
fence, not a cabinet.

Regards.

Tom Banes wrote:
On 4 Oct 2005 19:06:20 -0700, "AggieSawDust"
wrote:


Is it a good idea to rip PT on my table saw (everything I've heard says
no)?



I frame all my duck blinds with PT 2X4 ripped in half to nominal 2X2.
Been doing it for 30 years. I use a circular saw with the standard
edge guide, carbide tipped blade, do it out doors and wear a mask. It
works fine. Yeh, the stuff is usually wet. Yeh, it will tend to warp.
Make your cut, nail or screw it up, and hope the weight of the fence
boards keep the warp to a minimum This is not precision work! It's
fence, not a cabinet.

Around here they have been selling PT 2 x 2 for quite some time.
They tend to be warped worse than the 2 x 4s.

--

FF

wrote:

Tom Banes wrote:

On 4 Oct 2005 19:06:20 -0700, "AggieSawDust"
wrote:



Is it a good idea to rip PT on my table saw (everything I've heard says
no)?



I frame all my duck blinds with PT 2X4 ripped in half to nominal 2X2.
Been doing it for 30 years. I use a circular saw with the standard
edge guide, carbide tipped blade, do it out doors and wear a mask. It
works fine. Yeh, the stuff is usually wet. Yeh, it will tend to warp.
Make your cut, nail or screw it up, and hope the weight of the fence
boards keep the warp to a minimum This is not precision work! It's
fence, not a cabinet.


Around here they have been selling PT 2 x 2 for quite some time.
They tend to be warped worse than the 2 x 4s.

I've never seen any type of wood twist as much after installation as a
PT 4x4. One local fence company that I spoke with didn't want to use
them for a number of years due to complaints from customers. After that
conversation, I used some PT 4x4 and came face to face with what the
fence company owner was talking about. I have a gate that stopped
closing within weeks of installation because the hinge post had twisted
so much that there was no clearance for the gate to close. Some of the
other posts I'd installed also had an obvious twist to them. I never
had that trouble with untreated redwood 4x4's but the termites loved them.

Dave

Wes Stewart wrote:

On Tue, 04 Oct 2005 21:46:56 -0500, Duane Bozarth
wrote:

wrote:

On 4 Oct 2005 19:18:30 -0700, "AggieSawDust"
wrote:

Sorry, I typo'd length (as that would be a cross cut). I meant height
and width. The rails are 1 1/8" wide by 2 5/8" tall... I need longer
than 8 feet.

I have been unable to find 1x PT... that would definitely work.

I do have a stationary cabinet saw... don't know anyone with a
benchtop.

I was trying to work out some plans for a jig for a circ saw. Just
curious if anyone has had to do something similar with out a TS.

if you rip a pressure treated 2x4 in half you will expose the
untreated core, defeating the purpose of the pressure treatment.

That's the point of the pressure treatment to impregnate the material
through and through...

Doesn't happen.

Never been a problem for me...

Lawrence Wasserman wrote:

In article ,
David wrote:
Lawrence Wasserman wrote:
I've ripped some PT on my table saw a few times and I'm still alive.
Seriously, for cutting just the 3 rails you need for one fence section
I wouldn't be overly concerned. Take all the precautions you can to
minimize airborne dust and wear a good respirator.


Was it wet and clog up the insides of your TS? I spent quite a bit of
time removing the very wet sawdust from the tilt mechanism after ripping
a few wet 2x4's.


Dave

Now that you mention it, I have a small stack of PT lumber stored
under my front porch. Most of it is 2-3 years old. I'd certainly be
leery of using "fresh" PT because of the moisture.


I've done a lot and never had any problems...some literally drips but I
can't tell anything bad ever happened on either the PM66 or the 8" Delta
jointer. It all goes to the DC anyway or will go to the trash can if
you clean the shop manually.

I still fail to see the "problem" as a problem...

wrote:

AggieSawDust wrote:
So part of my buddy's fence collapsed last week. Being a sucker for

... I can't find this weird dimensioned
rails anywhere, so I'm looking at ripping some PT 2x4s to length and
height.

My questions:

Is it a good idea to rip PT on my table saw (everything I've heard says
no)?

If not, anyone have any good ideas on how to accurately rip some PT
2x4s to size using a circ saw or possibly a jig saw (don't have a
bandsaw yet)?



I ripped a bevel on a PT SYP 4 x 4 for a neighbor using a circular
saw with a fence.

I have since convinced my beighbor to constrain his designs to
use standard widths and thicknesses.

It can be done but:

1) It generates a lot of sawdust.

Why does it generate any more sawdust than any other cut? Answer--it
doesn't.

2) To the extent that PT puts more wear on a blade, ripping
puts a lot more on.

Why does it put any more wear on a blade than any other rip cut?
Answer--it doesn't.

3) Not all PT is completely treated all the way through. Yes,
it is all SUPPOSED to be.

None that I have seen wasn't...

Duane Bozarth wrote:
wrote:

...
I ripped a bevel on a PT SYP 4 x 4 for a neighbor using a circular
saw with a fence.

I have since convinced my beighbor to constrain his designs to
use standard widths and thicknesses.

It can be done but:

1) It generates a lot of sawdust.

Why does it generate any more sawdust than any other cut? Answer--it
doesn't.

Unless your lumber is extremely short ripping one in half produces
a lot more more sawdust than crosscutting one in half.


2) To the extent that PT puts more wear on a blade, ripping
puts a lot more on.

Why does it put any more wear on a blade than any other rip cut?
Answer--it doesn't.

Some people claim that PT puts more wear on a blade than
non PT wood. I'm undecided myself, hence 'To the extent
that'.


3) Not all PT is completely treated all the way through. Yes,
it is all SUPPOSED to be.

None that I have seen wasn't...

Me neither. But I ahve seen it reported here in rec.woowdorking.

--

FF

wrote:

Duane Bozarth wrote:
wrote:

...
I ripped a bevel on a PT SYP 4 x 4 for a neighbor using a circular
saw with a fence.

I have since convinced my beighbor to constrain his designs to
use standard widths and thicknesses.

It can be done but:

1) It generates a lot of sawdust.

Why does it generate any more sawdust than any other cut? Answer--it
doesn't.

Unless your lumber is extremely short ripping one in half produces
a lot more more sawdust than crosscutting one in half.

Well, DOH! You crosscut 1" of 2x material, you get same amount of
sawdust as 1" rip cut of 2x material...


2) To the extent that PT puts more wear on a blade, ripping
puts a lot more on.

Why does it put any more wear on a blade than any other rip cut?
Answer--it doesn't.

Some people claim that PT puts more wear on a blade than
non PT wood. I'm undecided myself, hence 'To the extent
that'.

That it is said on usenet doesn't make it so...


3) Not all PT is completely treated all the way through. Yes,
it is all SUPPOSED to be.

None that I have seen wasn't...

Me neither. But I ahve seen it reported here in rec.woowdorking.

See above...

Duane Bozarth wrote:
wrote:

Duane Bozarth wrote:
wrote:

...
I ripped a bevel on a PT SYP 4 x 4 for a neighbor using a circular
saw with a fence.

I have since convinced my beighbor to constrain his designs to
use standard widths and thicknesses.

It can be done but:

1) It generates a lot of sawdust.

Why does it generate any more sawdust than any other cut? Answer--it
doesn't.

Unless your lumber is extremely short ripping one in half produces
a lot more more sawdust than crosscutting one in half.

Well, DOH! You crosscut 1" of 2x material, you get same amount of
sawdust as 1" rip cut of 2x material...


Yeah, I thought that was sort of obvious which is why I didn't
explain in detail the first time around.

I quite agree as to what you say that reading something on UseNet
doesn't make it true.

That the average human being only uses 10% of his brain is trivially
observed by a casual perusal of UseNet articles.

--

FF