I have a Forrest WW2 that I've been using on my table saw for rips but never
liked it's performance.

I'd like to get a blade exclusively designed for ripping.

For what I do, I really don't need perfection....I usually rip 1/2" oak or
walnut for a product.

The priority....
I want an easier and FASTER feed and NO burn marks.

I was looking at the Amana RB1020 20 tooth blade for example, which is a
completely different design from their 30 tooth "glue line" blade....and it
seems that most (systi matic and others) offer this choice....

A 20-24 tooth rip blade or a 30 tooth "glue line".

How different are they and any suggestions?

Like I say, just faster with clean edges and something that will last.

Michael wrote:

....
I'd like to get a blade exclusively designed for ripping.

For what I do, I really don't need perfection....I usually rip 1/2" oak or
walnut for a product.

The priority....
I want an easier and FASTER feed and NO burn marks.

I was looking at the Amana RB1020 20 tooth blade for example, which is a
completely different design from their 30 tooth "glue line" blade....and it
seems that most (systi matic and others) offer this choice....

A 20-24 tooth rip blade or a 30 tooth "glue line".

How different are they and any suggestions?

Like I say, just faster with clean edges and something that will last.

Faster, go w/ 20/24-tooth. "Glue-line" blades will tend to burn more
easily. But, w/ only 1/2" thick material, as long as you don't have
terribly under-powered saw, either should be fine.

Amana is good stuff, imo you can't go wrong w/ it....

"Duane Bozarth" wrote in message

Amana is good stuff, imo you can't go wrong w/ it....

Ditto. I've had their 8" dado stack for a number of years now, cut a lot of
dadoes with it, never been sharpened, and it's still going strong.

--
www.e-woodshop.net
Last update: 8/29/05

Something is not correct with either your blade, your fence setup, or
your feed methods. There is no burning when set up correctly. Do you
have board buddies? They make it possible to actually stop midway in a
cut and get no blade marks or scorching. They are, however, a pain in
the ass for feeding the stock through the blade.

My first forest was a bit out of round and caused an excessive amount
of sawdust to come forward off the blade and saw marks.

The only time I have burning is when I dont' feed properly, or the wood
pinches my micro-jig splitter from internal stress relief.

Alan

What? The forrest is the end all of table saw blades. You should be able to
cut whole planets into quarters and glue them back together with no edge
prep. You have to be wrong. Now go pray to the Forrest blade god and hope he
will forgive your blasphemy.

"Michael" wrote in message
...
I have a Forrest WW2 that I've been using on my table saw for rips but
never
liked it's performance.

I'd like to get a blade exclusively designed for ripping.

For what I do, I really don't need perfection....I usually rip 1/2" oak or
walnut for a product.

The priority....
I want an easier and FASTER feed and NO burn marks.

I was looking at the Amana RB1020 20 tooth blade for example, which is a
completely different design from their 30 tooth "glue line" blade....and
it
seems that most (systi matic and others) offer this choice....

A 20-24 tooth rip blade or a 30 tooth "glue line".

How different are they and any suggestions?

Like I say, just faster with clean edges and something that will last.

Ok...I will.

Just don't tell him I'm going to buy the Amana 20 tooth.




"CW" wrote in message
nk.net...
What? The forrest is the end all of table saw blades. You should be able
to
cut whole planets into quarters and glue them back together with no edge
prep. You have to be wrong. Now go pray to the Forrest blade god and hope
he
will forgive your blasphemy.

"Michael" wrote in message
...
I have a Forrest WW2 that I've been using on my table saw for rips but
never
liked it's performance.

I'd like to get a blade exclusively designed for ripping.

For what I do, I really don't need perfection....I usually rip 1/2" oak
or
walnut for a product.

The priority....
I want an easier and FASTER feed and NO burn marks.

I was looking at the Amana RB1020 20 tooth blade for example, which is a
completely different design from their 30 tooth "glue line" blade....and
it
seems that most (systi matic and others) offer this choice....

A 20-24 tooth rip blade or a 30 tooth "glue line".

How different are they and any suggestions?

Like I say, just faster with clean edges and something that will last.

"Michael" wrote in message
...
Ok...I will.

Just don't tell him I'm going to buy the Amana 20 tooth.




"CW" wrote in message
nk.net...
What? The forrest is the end all of table saw blades. You should be able
to
cut whole planets into quarters and glue them back together with no edge
prep. You have to be wrong. Now go pray to the Forrest blade god and hope
he
will forgive your blasphemy.

"Michael" wrote in message
...
I have a Forrest WW2 that I've been using on my table saw for rips but
never
liked it's performance.

I'd like to get a blade exclusively designed for ripping.

For what I do, I really don't need perfection....I usually rip 1/2" oak
or
walnut for a product.

The priority....
I want an easier and FASTER feed and NO burn marks.

I was looking at the Amana RB1020 20 tooth blade for example, which is a
completely different design from their 30 tooth "glue line" blade....and
it
seems that most (systi matic and others) offer this choice....

A 20-24 tooth rip blade or a 30 tooth "glue line".

How different are they and any suggestions?

Like I say, just faster with clean edges and something that will last.


I have the Amana Prestique rip blade, 20 FT that I use for ripping. I'm
completely satisfied with it. It makes less noise, uses less hp and makes
glue joint quality cuts. I use my WWII for most other cuts. The Amana cost
about half what the WWII cost at wood show prices.

On Sat, 10 Sep 2005 11:09:53 -0500, "Michael"
wrote:

Ok...I will.

Just don't tell him I'm going to buy the Amana 20 tooth.

want one cheap? I have a amana I think a CMT and maybe a Freud rip
blade I no longer use. they suck compared to the forrest blade.
Knight-Toolworks
http://www.knight-toolworks.com
affordable handmade wooden planes

"Michael" wrote in message
...
I have a Forrest WW2 that I've been using on my table saw for rips but
never liked it's performance.

I'd like to get a blade exclusively designed for ripping.

For what I do, I really don't need perfection....I usually rip 1/2" oak or
walnut for a product.

The priority....
I want an easier and FASTER feed and NO burn marks.

I only use a WWII regular kerf and cannot imagine changing blades for rips.

You may want to insure that your TS is set up properly and see if that
solves your problem before buying another blade and finding out that the new
blade does not help. You want to the rip fence to be as close to dead on
parallel to the blade as possible. I suggest that you simply make minor
fence adjustments and make test cuts until you get the results that you are
looking for. The WWII in good shape is quite capable of delivering burn
free and glass smooth rips.







I was looking at the Amana RB1020 20 tooth blade for example, which is a
completely different design from their 30 tooth "glue line" blade....and
it seems that most (systi matic and others) offer this choice....

A 20-24 tooth rip blade or a 30 tooth "glue line".

How different are they and any suggestions?

Like I say, just faster with clean edges and something that will last.

Yeah......the Forrest is a great blade but I think part of the problem is I
need something a bit more forgiving and my Sears table saw (that I'm
constantly setting up) is a piece of ****.

Glad to hear the 20 tooth Amana has some fans.

My needs right now are more of a production thing.

Thanks.




"Leon" wrote in message
...

"Michael" wrote in message
...
I have a Forrest WW2 that I've been using on my table saw for rips but
never liked it's performance.

I'd like to get a blade exclusively designed for ripping.

For what I do, I really don't need perfection....I usually rip 1/2" oak
or walnut for a product.

The priority....
I want an easier and FASTER feed and NO burn marks.

I only use a WWII regular kerf and cannot imagine changing blades for
rips.

You may want to insure that your TS is set up properly and see if that
solves your problem before buying another blade and finding out that the
new blade does not help. You want to the rip fence to be as close to dead
on parallel to the blade as possible. I suggest that you simply make
minor fence adjustments and make test cuts until you get the results that
you are looking for. The WWII in good shape is quite capable of
delivering burn free and glass smooth rips.







I was looking at the Amana RB1020 20 tooth blade for example, which is a
completely different design from their 30 tooth "glue line" blade....and
it seems that most (systi matic and others) offer this choice....

A 20-24 tooth rip blade or a 30 tooth "glue line".

How different are they and any suggestions?

Like I say, just faster with clean edges and something that will last.

"Michael" wrote in message
...
Yeah......the Forrest is a great blade but I think part of the problem is
I need something a bit more forgiving and my Sears table saw (that I'm
constantly setting up) is a piece of ****.

No, what you need is a saw with a better fence. What I do with my Sears saw
is clamp the fence to the table at both ends. I try to get it as close to
parallel as possible (but all too often that isn't parallel at all). When I
do succeed my WWII yields glass smooth cuts with no burns. I see a
replacement fence just over the horizon.
Jim

I have a blade for fast rips in hard wood that performs well, within
it's parameters. it has maybe 20 teeth, flat top. it never burns, but
the edge it leaves needs to be surfaced- plenty of visible tooth marks.
for roughing out in thick hardwoods, it's great. it cuts fast, almost
no effort to push 3" thick oak through it. I forget, but I think it's
either amana or wkw. I think wkw.

if you need a better cut, the blade will likely have other than a flat
top tooth configuration. and be fussier.

have you contacted forrest about the performance you're getting with
the blade you have? their service is supposed to be pretty good. they
also make blades closer to the configuration you're looking for.

bottom line is that matching the right blade to your application will
make it go faster and better, which means you save money. the cost of
the blade is insignificant in the long run. don't be afraid to try a
few blades to figure out what works best on your machine, in your shop,
by your operators, in your materials. there is no magic one blade does
everything best solution, forrest junkies notwithstanding.

--
wrote in message
oups.com...
snip
I have a blade for fast rips in hard wood that performs well, within
it's parameters. it has maybe 20 teeth, flat top. it never burns, but
bottom line is that matching the right blade to your application will
make it go faster and better, which means you save money. the cost of
the blade is insignificant in the long run. don't be afraid to try a
few blades to figure out what works best on your machine, in your shop,
by your operators, in your materials. there is no magic one blade does
everything best solution, forrest junkies notwithstanding.

I agree!

Believe me when I say the rip blade runs cooler and requires less hp to rip
a board. My saw is adjusted and does not burn the wood when I rip with the
WWII blade, however, when making a pencil post bed, I discovered the WWII
short comings while ripping the tapered posts. I you have just a cut or two,
then by all means use the WWII.

The surface left by the rip blade is more than adequate for glue joints. If
the edge is not adequate, that is when my collection of bedrock planes come
into play.

I was in the BORG earlier in the week and spotted the Oldham blades.
They had a 10" 24T rip blade for $13. I looked it over and thought -
what the heck? I have used it to rip several different species with
depths up to the max my little Delta CS will allow and was amazed how
well this el-cheapo performed. No burning, no stalling, fed the wood at
a very fast rate and it seemd to say "is that all you got?" It's
Chinese but the parent company is the same one that makes Whiteside
router bits here in NC, so they must have given them some lessons in
making blades. Anyway, YMMV but you won't be left feeling like you
wasted your money ;-}

Michael wrote:
I have a Forrest WW2 that I've been using on my table saw for rips but never
liked it's performance.
snip

On Sat, 10 Sep 2005 08:59:42 -0500, "Michael"
wrote:

I have a Forrest WW2 that I've been using on my table saw for rips but never
liked it's performance.

I'd like to get a blade exclusively designed for ripping.

For what I do, I really don't need perfection....I usually rip 1/2" oak or
walnut for a product.

The priority....
I want an easier and FASTER feed and NO burn marks.


what tooth is it? I find the 30t forrest blade actually rips faster
then any rip blade I have used down to 20t blades. it also rips
smoother and with less problems. though the wood tends to bind it
worse when it clamps the wood then a rip blade did but that's the only
part that is worse about it.
sounds like a setup issue or a dull blade.
Knight-Toolworks
http://www.knight-toolworks.com
affordable handmade wooden planes

Generally speaking, virtually any rip blade will outperform any combo
blade for ripping.

But, even if that were not so, it makes good sense to go buy a cheaper
rip blade and SAVE your WWII for other stuff, where a glass-like finish counts.

In other words, dull some bargain throw-away rip for the production
run (although rip blades have a longer useful life for ripping than
combo blades too, so it might not be that dull when you're done)

Michael wrote:

I have a Forrest WW2 that I've been using on my table saw for rips but never
liked it's performance.

I'd like to get a blade exclusively designed for ripping.

For what I do, I really don't need perfection....I usually rip 1/2" oak or
walnut for a product.

The priority....
I want an easier and FASTER feed and NO burn marks.

I was looking at the Amana RB1020 20 tooth blade for example, which is a
completely different design from their 30 tooth "glue line" blade....and it
seems that most (systi matic and others) offer this choice....

A 20-24 tooth rip blade or a 30 tooth "glue line".

How different are they and any suggestions?

Like I say, just faster with clean edges and something that will last.

On Mon, 12 Sep 2005 01:33:55 GMT, wrote:

Generally speaking, virtually any rip blade will outperform any combo
blade for ripping.

I have not found this so. though it may be because I cut only
tropical's.

Knight-Toolworks
http://www.knight-toolworks.com
affordable handmade wooden planes

Interesting...I'm basing my observation on cutting northern species
such as maple oak, cherry, fir plywood, etc.

I always wanted to do something pathological like buy some lignum
vitae and try cutting it, but the chance has never presented itself :-)

Steve knight wrote:
On Mon, 12 Sep 2005 01:33:55 GMT, wrote:

Generally speaking, virtually any rip blade will outperform any combo
blade for ripping.

I have not found this so. though it may be because I cut only
tropical's.

Knight-Toolworks
http://www.knight-toolworks.com
affordable handmade wooden planes

On Tue, 13 Sep 2005 02:38:40 GMT, wrote:

Interesting...I'm basing my observation on cutting northern species
such as maple oak, cherry, fir plywood, etc.

I always wanted to do something pathological like buy some lignum
vitae and try cutting it, but the chance has never presented itself :-)

I find working with tropical's usually far easier then American woods.
usually they are not as or at all case hardened so bind far less. they
usually mill with less tearout too.
I can rip 8/4 purpleheart with less effort then I can maple. I only
rip on my jet contractors saw but with the forrest 30t blade I can rip
faster with it then a 20 or 24t rip blade. I don't know if it was the
same with an American wood I can't remember.
but I can plane it and joint it with less tearout too.
though it sure eats up bandsaw blades. I may get a week out of a
regular metal blade a couple of months out of a bi metal blade.
now sanding them is far more work though. but the polish up better for
the most part and need less finish.
Knight-Toolworks
http://www.knight-toolworks.com
affordable handmade wooden planes

On Tue, 13 Sep 2005 02:38:40 GMT, wrote:

Interesting...I'm basing my observation on cutting northern species
such as maple oak, cherry, fir plywood, etc.

I always wanted to do something pathological like buy some lignum
vitae and try cutting it, but the chance has never presented itself :-)


lignum vitae is kind of fun to work. it's hard as hell, but full of
oil, so it's a lubricated cut. smoooth. and it smells nice, too.

lignum vitae is kind of fun to work. it's hard as hell, but full of
oil, so it's a lubricated cut. smoooth. and it smells nice, too.

Vera is far better it smells so sweet and the sawdust is weird it
lumps together you can squeeze it into a ball. makes my whole shop
smell nice.
Knight-Toolworks
http://www.knight-toolworks.com
affordable handmade wooden planes