Stanley # 7 blade, lever cap, chip breaker.
 

I know where there is a # 7 ,actually it is a bailey, but it's missing the
blade, chip breaker and lever cap.
Pretty rough, rusty, but should clean up, will need re japaned or painted,
but I could'nt find any cracks in it, and the mouth is in good shape. Tote
and front knob are in pretty good shape. The sole does not appear to be
twisted as far as I could tell by eye.
What other blade, chip breaker and lever cap's will fit this?
Is it the same as a # 5 Or # 6 ?
Do you think it's worth $15.00?
Thanks, Tony D.

"anthony Diodati" wrote in message
...
I know where there is a # 7 ,actually it is a bailey, but it's missing the
blade, chip breaker and lever cap.
Pretty rough, rusty, but should clean up, will need re japaned or painted,
but I could'nt find any cracks in it, and the mouth is in good shape. Tote
and front knob are in pretty good shape. The sole does not appear to be
twisted as far as I could tell by eye.
What other blade, chip breaker and lever cap's will fit this?
Is it the same as a # 5 Or # 6 ?
Do you think it's worth $15.00?

What shape is the wood in? If the wood is good, then its definitely worth
$15 for the parts. If the wood is cracked or parts broken, I'd wait and see
what comes up on ebay. You'll spend money for parts and likely not have a
matched set, whereas for a few dollars more you could find a whole one.

Bob

anthony Diodati wrote:

I know where there is a # 7 ,actually it is a bailey, but it's missing the
blade, chip breaker and lever cap.
Pretty rough, rusty, but should clean up, will need re japaned or painted,
but I could'nt find any cracks in it, and the mouth is in good shape. Tote
and front knob are in pretty good shape. The sole does not appear to be
twisted as far as I could tell by eye.
What other blade, chip breaker and lever cap's will fit this?
Is it the same as a # 5 Or # 6 ?
Do you think it's worth $15.00?
Thanks, Tony D.

Hell yes it's worth $15.00. The sole alone, in good shape is
worth that. Electrolytic derusting (Google is your friend)
works great on cast iron soles.

The #7 cutter is 2 3/8" wide, same as the #6. The #4 and #5
are 2" wide. New parts can stil be bought directly from Stanley
(Google this newsgroup for the 800 number). The equivalent
parts from Lie Nielsen should fit too. I suggest you get
the cutter (blade) at least from Ron Hock, Lie Nielsen or
whoever else has a good rep for high quality aftermarket
cutting irons.

Other manufacturers followed the Stanley pattern so closely
that almost certainly the equivalent parts from a Sargent,
Fulton, Millers Falls, Union, Winchester, Keen Kutter,
Ohio Tools (with the possible exception of the tapered cutters),
Dunlop, Record, or Craftsman will fit, even if they look a
bit odd (e.g. you will be creating what is known as a
Frankenplane). Some of those other brands were made by
Stanley.

The cap irons (chip breakers) and lever caps pretty much
have to be interchangeable in order for the cutting irons to
be interchangeable.

Stanley's highly successful line of bench planes all followed
from the design bought from Leonard Bailey. "Bailey" remained
cast onto the Stanley planes for many years under some sort
of arrangement, perhaps similar to the way "Goodrich" still
appears on some tires even though BF Goodrich hasn't made
tires for 20 years or so.

Patrick Leach (Google the web for Leach and Supertools) may
be able to find you original replacement parts, the Sweetheart
cutters (which were laminated) have an excellent reputation.

--

FF

On 5 Sep 2005 11:25:26 -0700, wrote:

The #7 cutter is 2 3/8" wide, same as the #6.

Also the #4 1/2 and the #5 1/2.

If the base is usable and the frog is intact, then snap it up. Even if
you cannibalise an entire smoother to make a good jointer plane, then
it's still a bargain. Look around and you might find a good plane that
has been dropped and cracked (admittedly easier for the common #4s)
which makes an ideal donor. You can even exchange the woodwork and
trimmings.

Stanley irons (except the Sweetheart) aren't much good so replacing them
is no hardship. Clifton can also do you a two-piece cap iron (allows
honing without disturbing settings) for a reasonable price. In extremis
you can even use the lever cap from a 2" wide plane.

As posted, electrolysis is the way to go for de-rusting. You don't need
to re-japan a user plane either.

Andy Dingley wrote:
On 5 Sep 2005 11:25:26 -0700, wrote:

The #7 cutter is 2 3/8" wide, same as the #6.

Also the #4 1/2 and the #5 1/2.

The later models, yes. At least one of those two had a smaller
cutter in the earlier models, I forget which and how much smaller
(2 1/4" I think) but I have one of those somewhere. Probably it
(they) was (were) resized to match the #6 and #7 for economy of
scale.


If the base is usable and the frog is intact, then snap it up. Even if
you cannibalise an entire smoother to make a good jointer plane, then
it's still a bargain.
...

Hmm the only smoother you could do this with would be a #4 1/2
which is typically more desireable than a #7! The knobs are
pretty much interchangeable but the totes on the #5 and up
are different having a second screw in them, than on the #4
and below. I do not remember if the tote on the #4 1/2 has
the second screw or not.

--

FF

wrote in message
oups.com...

Andy Dingley wrote:
On 5 Sep 2005 11:25:26 -0700, wrote:

The #7 cutter is 2 3/8" wide, same as the #6.

Also the #4 1/2 and the #5 1/2.

The later models, yes. At least one of those two had a smaller
cutter in the earlier models, I forget which and how much smaller
(2 1/4" I think) but I have one of those somewhere. Probably it
(they) was (were) resized to match the #6 and #7 for economy of
scale.


If the base is usable and the frog is intact, then snap it up. Even if
you cannibalise an entire smoother to make a good jointer plane, then
it's still a bargain.
...

Hmm the only smoother you could do this with would be a #4 1/2
which is typically more desireable than a #7! The knobs are
pretty much interchangeable but the totes on the #5 and up
are different having a second screw in them, than on the #4
and below. I do not remember if the tote on the #4 1/2 has
the second screw or not.


Thanks for all the replies.
Yes the wood is in pretty good shape.
So 2 3/8" wide is what I'd be looking for.
Probley use the Electrolytic derusting , I have done this before, works
well.
Probley paint it just for the hell of it.
Thanks, Tony