Greetings All,
I have a wall of app 70 square feet that my wife wants covered in
hickory. She has her heart set on hickory T&G that she wants me to mill
up. Here's my conundrum. The local hardwood store has stock already
milled to 3/4, but she really wants me to cut it in half down to 3/8 so
it won't be too expensive.
I can see 3 options, maybe someone out there can shed some light on
this for me. Option #1 is after squaring up, I could use my Unisaw to
rip the boards in half to 3/8 and then run them through a planer to get
a consistent thickness. My problem is that after the saw kerf there
won't be much left to plane down and I think the minimum thickness is
3/8 for the planer. Option #2 is square up the 3/4 stock and still use
the Uni to get them to 3/8. But then run them under a drum sander which
seems like a better choice than the planer. Option #3 would be to resaw
to 3/8 using a band saw and then drum sand down to 3/8.
My predicament is I have neither the drum sander nor band saw, but
will be able to buy one of these if needed. Would you get the band saw
or the drum sander? Or is there another way that I haven't thought
about? BTW, I have a Unisaw, DJ20 jointer and DeWalt 735 planer so far.
Many TIA, Mark

Option 4- Buy the bandsaw (Yay!) and a good blade, buy 5/4 rough KD
stock, square it up, then resaw to 1/2 inch. Watch for movement. Then
plane the bandsawn faces and mill the T&G. Hickory need sharp tools
working on it. Tom

Mark L. (in ) said:

Option #5:
Ask the guys at the hardwood store to provide the wood the way you
want it. If they can't/won't then it's time to visit the mill.

You're unlikely to get two 3/8" thick boards from one 3/4" board.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/solar.html

"Mark L." wrote in message
. ..
Greetings All,
I have a wall of app 70 square feet that my wife wants covered in
hickory. She has her heart set on hickory T&G that she wants me to mill
up. Here's my conundrum. The local hardwood store has stock already milled
to 3/4, but she really wants me to cut it in half down to 3/8 so it won't
be too expensive.
I can see 3 options, maybe someone out there can shed some light on this
for me. Option #1 is after squaring up, I could use my Unisaw to rip the
boards in half to 3/8 and then run them through a planer to get a
consistent thickness. My problem is that after the saw kerf there won't be
much left to plane down and I think the minimum thickness is 3/8 for the
planer. Option #2 is square up the 3/4 stock and still use the Uni to get
them to 3/8. But then run them under a drum sander which seems like a
better choice than the planer. Option #3 would be to resaw to 3/8 using a
band saw and then drum sand down to 3/8.
My predicament is I have neither the drum sander nor band saw, but will
be able to buy one of these if needed. Would you get the band saw or the
drum sander? Or is there another way that I haven't thought about? BTW, I
have a Unisaw, DJ20 jointer and DeWalt 735 planer so far. Many TIA, Mark

Tell your spouse there's a reason why standard t&g comes 5/8. Attempts to
mill t&g out of 3/8 stock, even the straightest and best grade are doomed to
curses and splinters.

Then compare the price of commercial product to the price of your materials
and equipment acquisitions and build a couple of jewelry boxes.

Just say NO! Here is what you will get. Table saw: The best you can
expect is 1/8" loss from blade and surfacing. If the nominal 3/4 is
actually 3/4 you are left with a 5/16" board. Now cut a tung in the
board. The tung is at best 1/8". But that leaves only 3/32" wall
outside the groove. Not much strength. Just a little to much pressure
and you blow out the board.

With a band saw you will have to have some pretty good equipment to
resaw flat enough to not have the same waste in the end as the table
saw. I know there are people that do it.But would you want to in trying
to save a little money. Let's see hickory at about $4.25 a board foot
is $297.50. Half of that is 148.75. Not factoring in the waste you will
have because lack of experience with new equipment, blown boards,
warping after cutting, time spent and cost of equipment with tolerances
capable of handling the job.

Now I'm all for getting new equipment for a job. But, I'd better be
able to complete the task the equipment was purchased if I am getting
for a specific job.And the time factor is only relative to how much
time you have to spend doing the job. I just don't see doing it with
5/16 wood.

Roy

On Wed, 31 Aug 2005 05:40:56 GMT, the blithe spirit "Mark L."
clearly indicated:

Greetings All,
I have a wall of app 70 square feet that my wife wants covered in
hickory. She has her heart set on hickory T&G that she wants me to mill
up. Here's my conundrum. The local hardwood store has stock already
milled to 3/4, but she really wants me to cut it in half down to 3/8 so
it won't be too expensive.

Tell her that the extra saw blades, planer blades, and T&G router
or shaper bits would add up to a whole lot more than that wood costs,
not to mention several EXTRA days of your time.

"Honey, it'll cost more and extend the project by an extra month or 2,
but if you want me to do it that way, I'd love to, just for you."
bseg


..-.
Life is short. Eat dessert first!
---
http://diversify.com Comprehensive Website Development

Mark L. wrote:
Greetings All,
I have a wall of app 70 square feet that my wife wants covered in=20
hickory. She has her heart set on hickory T&G that she wants me to mill=
=20
up. Here's my conundrum. The local hardwood store has stock already=20
milled to 3/4, but she really wants me to cut it in half down to 3/8 so=
=20
it won't be too expensive.
I can see 3 options, maybe someone out there can shed some light on=20
this for me. Option #1 is after squaring up, I could use my Unisaw to=20
rip the boards in half to 3/8 and then run them through a planer to get=
=20
a consistent thickness. My problem is that after the saw kerf there=20
won't be much left to plane down and I think the minimum thickness is=20
3/8 for the planer. Option #2 is square up the 3/4 stock and still use =

the Uni to get them to 3/8. But then run them under a drum sander which=
=20
seems like a better choice than the planer. Option #3 would be to resaw=
=20
to 3/8 using a band saw and then drum sand down to 3/8.
My predicament is I have neither the drum sander nor band saw, but wil=
l=20
be able to buy one of these if needed. Would you get the band saw or th=
e=20
drum sander? Or is there another way that I haven't thought about? BTW=
,=20
I have a Unisaw, DJ20 jointer and DeWalt 735 planer so far. Many TIA, M=
ark



These are CDN dollars....

http://centurymill.com/domestic.html#hickory


So at the equivalent of $2.60 per board foot in USD -- then maybe a band =

saw and a planer is a good idea -- but rough sawn boards...

I agree with everyone else about thin boards -- tried it -- been there.


--=20
Will R.
Jewel Boxes and Wood Art
http://woodwork.pmccl.com
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those=20
who have not got it.=94 George Bernard Shaw

Mark L. wrote:
Greetings All,
I have a wall of app 70 square feet that my wife wants covered in
hickory. She has her heart set on hickory T&G that she wants me to mill
up. Here's my conundrum. The local hardwood store has stock already
milled to 3/4, but she really wants me to cut it in half down to 3/8 so
it won't be too expensive.


how about this option. Buy the drum sander, then tell her that it just
won't work to resaw the boards that thin (as others have posted), but
the drum sander will let you sand down the 3/4" stuff really nice.

I can't imagine working with hardwoods without a drum sander. I get one
before a bandsaw every time. It's a huge timesaver and produces much
better results.

I can't imagine working with hardwoods without a drum sander. I get one
before a bandsaw every time. It's a huge timesaver and produces much
better results.

I use mostly maple, oak and cherry. I have never used a drum sander, just my
planer. It does not take me much work at all with an ROS or scraper to be
ready for finish. Am I missing something? or is it that you don't have a
planer?

-Steve

On Wed, 31 Aug 2005 05:40:56 GMT, "Mark L."
wrote:

I have a wall of app 70 square feet that my wife wants covered in
hickory. She has her heart set on hickory T&G that she wants me to mill
up. Here's my conundrum. The local hardwood store has stock already
milled to 3/4, but she really wants me to cut it in half down to 3/8 so
it won't be too expensive.

My predicament is I have neither the drum sander nor band saw, but
will be able to buy one of these if needed. Would you get the band saw
or the drum sander? Or is there another way that I haven't thought
about? BTW, I have a Unisaw, DJ20 jointer and DeWalt 735 planer so far.
Many TIA, Mark

The cost of either of these tools will easily pay for the full 3/4"
stock. Of course if acquiring the tool(s) is the goal, either story
will work.g

Seriously, I'd go with full 3/4' stock or see if I could get a mill
work or the yard to mill it for me. Hickory is pretty hard and
sometimes difficult to work not to mention it's hard on blades.

Mike O.

Only problem is my local shop stocks 4/4 only. And the wife likes to
select the boards herself, so mail order is out. But thanks anyway Tom

tom wrote:
Option 4- Buy the bandsaw (Yay!) and a good blade, buy 5/4 rough KD
stock, square it up, then resaw to 1/2 inch. Watch for movement. Then
plane the bandsawn faces and mill the T&G. Hickory need sharp tools
working on it. Tom

I may ask if buying 5/4 is an option, if not maybe try somewhere else.
But she already had me pick up $100 worth of the 4/4. Consider it a
lesson learned I guess.

Morris Dovey wrote:

Mark L. (in ) said:

Option #5:
Ask the guys at the hardwood store to provide the wood the way you
want it. If they can't/won't then it's time to visit the mill.

You're unlikely to get two 3/8" thick boards from one 3/4" board.

--
Morris Dovey
DeSoto Solar
DeSoto, Iowa USA
http://www.iedu.com/DeSoto/solar.html

I'm starting to see the error of my ways......

ROYNEU wrote:

Just say NO! Here is what you will get. Table saw: The best you can
expect is 1/8" loss from blade and surfacing. If the nominal 3/4 is
actually 3/4 you are left with a 5/16" board. Now cut a tung in the
board. The tung is at best 1/8". But that leaves only 3/32" wall
outside the groove. Not much strength. Just a little to much pressure
and you blow out the board.

With a band saw you will have to have some pretty good equipment to
resaw flat enough to not have the same waste in the end as the table
saw. I know there are people that do it.But would you want to in trying
to save a little money. Let's see hickory at about $4.25 a board foot
is $297.50. Half of that is 148.75. Not factoring in the waste you will
have because lack of experience with new equipment, blown boards,
warping after cutting, time spent and cost of equipment with tolerances
capable of handling the job.

Now I'm all for getting new equipment for a job. But, I'd better be
able to complete the task the equipment was purchased if I am getting
for a specific job.And the time factor is only relative to how much
time you have to spend doing the job. I just don't see doing it with
5/16 wood.

Roy

Thanks for the link, it looks like it's worth a look.

WillR wrote:

Mark L. wrote:

Greetings All,
I have a wall of app 70 square feet that my wife wants covered in
hickory. She has her heart set on hickory T&G that she wants me to
mill up. Here's my conundrum. The local hardwood store has stock
already milled to 3/4, but she really wants me to cut it in half down
to 3/8 so it won't be too expensive.
I can see 3 options, maybe someone out there can shed some light on
this for me. Option #1 is after squaring up, I could use my Unisaw to
rip the boards in half to 3/8 and then run them through a planer to
get a consistent thickness. My problem is that after the saw kerf
there won't be much left to plane down and I think the minimum
thickness is 3/8 for the planer. Option #2 is square up the 3/4 stock
and still use the Uni to get them to 3/8. But then run them under a
drum sander which seems like a better choice than the planer. Option
#3 would be to resaw to 3/8 using a band saw and then drum sand down
to 3/8.
My predicament is I have neither the drum sander nor band saw, but
will be able to buy one of these if needed. Would you get the band saw
or the drum sander? Or is there another way that I haven't thought
about? BTW, I have a Unisaw, DJ20 jointer and DeWalt 735 planer so
far. Many TIA, Mark




These are CDN dollars....

http://centurymill.com/domestic.html#hickory


So at the equivalent of $2.60 per board foot in USD -- then maybe a band
saw and a planer is a good idea -- but rough sawn boards...

I agree with everyone else about thin boards -- tried it -- been there.

Stephen M wrote:

I can't imagine working with hardwoods without a drum sander. I get one
before a bandsaw every time. It's a huge timesaver and produces much
better results.

I use mostly maple, oak and cherry. I have never used a drum sander, just my
planer. It does not take me much work at all with an ROS or scraper to be
ready for finish. Am I missing something? or is it that you don't have a
planer?

-Steve

It's just so nice to push the boards through the drum sander. You get a
nice sanded surface and fast. Also, it helps flatten out the boards if
they are slightly out of wack from the planer. It's no substitute for a
jointer on badly cupped boards, but 95% of the time, I can run the
boards through the planer and drum sander only (don't mess with the
jointer).

It's not necessary to have a drum sander, but it's a huge timesaver.
Anything that reduces the time to do tedious sanding is worth it, IMO.