Thank God for caulk and paint.

Non of the inside or outside corners of my walls are true 90 degrees so
final results at the corners are a little off when mitering at 45 degrees.
Even off by 2 or 3 degrees will show up as out of alignment at the corners
where the baseboards don't meet exactly. I've tried coping for the first
time but it was a long process with trial errors before it looked ok -
forgot to take the coping saw with me, had to freehand on the TS. I had some
odd shaped walls also and had to divide the angle exactly by half using
trial and error or simple high school geometry as eyeballing it results in
disaster. After about four hundred feet of baseboards I'm getting the hang
of it so accurately is a must since a degree off here and a 1/16" off their
will show. So far this is only simple angles and I needed to resort to caulk
and paint.

Next crown moldings with compound angles - now I'll be really challenged
with those funky walls. I need to dust off my descriptive geometry book and
see if it helps. Is this where coping comes in play more than baseboards?

I read the subject line and I broke out laughing... I just did a kitchen no
only every wall out of square, out of plumb but warped too...There are angle
measurment tools that make it easier on you, but sometimes you just have to
fudge it.................


"Fred" wrote in message
...
Thank God for caulk and paint.

Non of the inside or outside corners of my walls are true 90 degrees so
final results at the corners are a little off when mitering at 45 degrees.
Even off by 2 or 3 degrees will show up as out of alignment at the corners
where the baseboards don't meet exactly. I've tried coping for the first
time but it was a long process with trial errors before it looked ok -
forgot to take the coping saw with me, had to freehand on the TS. I had
some
odd shaped walls also and had to divide the angle exactly by half using
trial and error or simple high school geometry as eyeballing it results in
disaster. After about four hundred feet of baseboards I'm getting the hang
of it so accurately is a must since a degree off here and a 1/16" off
their
will show. So far this is only simple angles and I needed to resort to
caulk
and paint.

Next crown moldings with compound angles - now I'll be really challenged
with those funky walls. I need to dust off my descriptive geometry book
and
see if it helps. Is this where coping comes in play more than baseboards?

"Fred" wrote in message
...
Thank God for caulk and paint.

Non of the inside or outside corners of my walls are true 90 degrees so
final results at the corners are a little off when mitering at 45 degrees.
Even off by 2 or 3 degrees will show up as out of alignment at the corners
where the baseboards don't meet exactly. I've tried coping for the first
time but it was a long process with trial errors before it looked ok -
forgot to take the coping saw with me, had to freehand on the TS. I had
some odd shaped walls also and had to divide the angle exactly by half
using trial and error or simple high school geometry as eyeballing it
results in disaster. After about four hundred feet of baseboards I'm
getting the hang of it so accurately is a must since a degree off here and
a 1/16" off their will show. So far this is only simple angles and I
needed to resort to caulk and paint.

Next crown moldings with compound angles - now I'll be really challenged
with those funky walls. I need to dust off my descriptive geometry book
and see if it helps. Is this where coping comes in play more than
baseboards?
Never miter inside corners. Always cope. The joint, properly done, will
always turn out better.

When I need to make angled cuts for molding I use this method:

Draw lines parallel to each wall that extend beyond each wall so the
lines meet. Make sure the lines are the same distance from each wall,
I just place a ruler against each wall.
Connect the intersection point of the lines to the corner of the wall
and that is half your angle.
Use your bevel gauge to 'read' the angle and set your saw.
Can't take credit or this, I saw/read it somewhere.

Never tried coping or crown molding but crown molding can be made easy
according to these guys.
http://www.allwoodwork.com/article/w..._made_easy.htm

A few of my favorite sayings around the job site.

"A little caulk and a little paint make a carpenter what he aint"
"Measure once, cut twice"
"No matter how many times I cut this (insert your preferred exploitative)
board it is still too short"
"Who is going to invent that dang board stretcher"


"Fred" wrote in message
...
Thank God for caulk and paint.

Non of the inside or outside corners of my walls are true 90 degrees so
final results at the corners are a little off when mitering at 45 degrees.
Even off by 2 or 3 degrees will show up as out of alignment at the corners
where the baseboards don't meet exactly. I've tried coping for the first
time but it was a long process with trial errors before it looked ok -
forgot to take the coping saw with me, had to freehand on the TS. I had
some odd shaped walls also and had to divide the angle exactly by half
using trial and error or simple high school geometry as eyeballing it
results in disaster. After about four hundred feet of baseboards I'm
getting the hang of it so accurately is a must since a degree off here and
a 1/16" off their will show. So far this is only simple angles and I
needed to resort to caulk and paint.

Next crown moldings with compound angles - now I'll be really challenged
with those funky walls. I need to dust off my descriptive geometry book
and see if it helps. Is this where coping comes in play more than
baseboards?

This guy?

http://www.jeffgreefwoodworking.com/...l1/Issue2.html

Fred wrote:

Thank God for caulk and paint.

Non of the inside or outside corners of my walls are true 90 degrees so
final results at the corners are a little off when mitering at 45 degrees.
Even off by 2 or 3 degrees will show up as out of alignment at the corners
where the baseboards don't meet exactly. I've tried coping for the first
time but it was a long process with trial errors before it looked ok -
forgot to take the coping saw with me, had to freehand on the TS. I had
some odd shaped walls also and had to divide the angle exactly by half
using trial and error or simple high school geometry as eyeballing it
results in disaster. After about four hundred feet of baseboards I'm
getting the hang of it so accurately is a must since a degree off here and
a 1/16" off their will show. So far this is only simple angles and I
needed to resort to caulk and paint.

Next crown moldings with compound angles - now I'll be really challenged
with those funky walls. I need to dust off my descriptive geometry book
and see if it helps. Is this where coping comes in play more than
baseboards?
Every person I know that has ever done wallpaper "professionally", has
stated (flooring people make the same comment) "if they ever find a house
with a true 90 degree corner", they will buy it!

Hi Fred,

I feel your pain. I just got down off the ladder in
our family room where I am wrapping stained oak
crown around the entertainment center & brick
fireplace. About 35 ft of crown but in a dozen pieces,
with sloped ceilings (up & down) and uneven brick.
I work a couple hours a day (being retired!).
I have one last piece that I'm cursing at and trying again to get it
right: about 6 ft across the 11.5 ft high ceiling, then a short
slope down on the vaulted ceiling and around a corner - all this
where the vertical "wall" is actually brick which is very
uneven in some areas. Add to this that the drywall that butts
the fireplace has no wood behind it for the first few inches. This
is my 2nd go around with it.

I have been using some MDF crown for my test pieces
since I stained and partially finished the oak. When it
is all up I will fill the nail holes and wipe on one or
two more coats of poly.

I have done quite a bit of painted crown around the house
and for friends & relatives - all on normal (flat) ceilings.
I got pretty good at it & learned to cope pretty well. Caulk
always helped when necessary.

Really looks good when it's done right tho.

Lou

In article , Fred
wrote:

Thank God for caulk and paint.

Non of the inside or outside corners of my walls are true 90 degrees so
final results at the corners are a little off when mitering at 45 degrees.
Even off by 2 or 3 degrees will show up as out of alignment at the corners
where the baseboards don't meet exactly. I've tried coping for the first
time but it was a long process with trial errors before it looked ok -
forgot to take the coping saw with me, had to freehand on the TS. I had some
odd shaped walls also and had to divide the angle exactly by half using
trial and error or simple high school geometry as eyeballing it results in
disaster. After about four hundred feet of baseboards I'm getting the hang
of it so accurately is a must since a degree off here and a 1/16" off their
will show. So far this is only simple angles and I needed to resort to caulk
and paint.

Next crown moldings with compound angles - now I'll be really challenged
with those funky walls. I need to dust off my descriptive geometry book and
see if it helps. Is this where coping comes in play more than baseboards?

"RayV" wrote in message
oups.com...
When I need to make angled cuts for molding I use this method:

Draw lines parallel to each wall that extend beyond each wall so the
lines meet. Make sure the lines are the same distance from each wall,
I just place a ruler against each wall.
Connect the intersection point of the lines to the corner of the wall
and that is half your angle.


Cool, don't need compass either!



Use your bevel gauge to 'read' the angle and set your saw.
Can't take credit or this, I saw/read it somewhere.

Never tried coping or crown molding but crown molding can be made easy
according to these guys.
http://www.allwoodwork.com/article/w..._made_easy.htm

On Sun, 28 Aug 2005 22:13:17 -0700, "Fred" wrote:

Thank God for caulk and paint.

Non of the inside or outside corners of my walls are true 90 degrees so
final results at the corners are a little off when mitering at 45 degrees.
Even off by 2 or 3 degrees will show up as out of alignment at the corners
where the baseboards don't meet exactly. I've tried coping for the first
time but it was a long process with trial errors before it looked ok -
forgot to take the coping saw with me, had to freehand on the TS. I had some
odd shaped walls also and had to divide the angle exactly by half using
trial and error or simple high school geometry as eyeballing it results in
disaster. After about four hundred feet of baseboards I'm getting the hang
of it so accurately is a must since a degree off here and a 1/16" off their
will show. So far this is only simple angles and I needed to resort to caulk
and paint.

Next crown moldings with compound angles - now I'll be really challenged
with those funky walls. I need to dust off my descriptive geometry book and
see if it helps. Is this where coping comes in play more than baseboards?

Definately- you'll have nice looking joints with coping, but a
billionth of an inch off on crown is going to look terrible with a
compound miter cut on the inside corners. Coping is more forgiving
with walls that are out of true, and the joint stays tight as the
house moves.

RayV wrote:
When I need to make angled cuts for molding I use this method:

Draw lines parallel to each wall that extend beyond each wall so the
lines meet. Make sure the lines are the same distance from each wall,
I just place a ruler against each wall.
Connect the intersection point of the lines to the corner of the wall
and that is half your angle.
Use your bevel gauge to 'read' the angle and set your saw.
Can't take credit or this, I saw/read it somewhere.

Never tried coping or crown molding but crown molding can be made easy
according to these guys.
http://www.allwoodwork.com/article/w..._made_easy.htm


Hi RayV

I am new in this wood game and may also be a slow learner. I DO NOT
understand what you are trying to say. Could you please provide a simple
drawing to illustrate how you "Draw lines parallel to each wall that
extend beyond each wall so the lines meet"

Appreciate your reply

Fudd

I'll try and draw it with text since I can't post pictures right
now.


\
\ \ Walls
\ \________
Lines _\_________
\


If this looks OK you should be able to see that if you connect the
corner of the walls to the intersection of the lines you will get half
the angle.

Anyone know how I can post pictures to APBW without a newsreader?
I'm using Google groups from work right now.

Another attempt at text drawing...

\
\ \ Walls
\ \________
Lines _\_________
\

After hanging about 1500 linear ft of crown in my home and trying both
methods, I can tell you for certain that coping inside miters is definitely
the best way. It does take several attempts to get the hang of it but, once
you get it, it is so much easier and looks tremendously better. One of the
tricks I found most useful is to carry a patternmakers rasp and a coarse
half-round file in your toolbelt. These make life a lot easier when trying
to clean up the cope for that perfect fit. Also, I do not try and cope long
boards. I'll butt joint about a foot and a half from the corner and that
gives me a managable length which I can tweak the fit while still on the
ladder. A bevel ripped backer-board goes a long way towards supporting
large crown and makes a perfect spot to nail.

my ¢2


"ATP*" wrote in message
...

"Fred" wrote in message
...
Thank God for caulk and paint.

Non of the inside or outside corners of my walls are true 90 degrees so
final results at the corners are a little off when mitering at 45
degrees. Even off by 2 or 3 degrees will show up as out of alignment at
the corners where the baseboards don't meet exactly. I've tried coping
for the first time but it was a long process with trial errors before it
looked ok - forgot to take the coping saw with me, had to freehand on the
TS. I had some odd shaped walls also and had to divide the angle exactly
by half using trial and error or simple high school geometry as
eyeballing it results in disaster. After about four hundred feet of
baseboards I'm getting the hang of it so accurately is a must since a
degree off here and a 1/16" off their will show. So far this is only
simple angles and I needed to resort to caulk and paint.

Next crown moldings with compound angles - now I'll be really challenged
with those funky walls. I need to dust off my descriptive geometry book
and see if it helps. Is this where coping comes in play more than
baseboards?
Never miter inside corners. Always cope. The joint, properly done, will
always turn out better.