Any tips or techniques for cutting plugs? I'm finishing up a Porch Swing
with - oh, maybe 8192 3/8" plugs to cut, glue, finesse and trim...

I've got the Veritas Snug Plug Cutter - and the holes are also 3/8" deep.

First few I cut were too snug. Don't want to try to file or sand that many
to adjust the fit.

Looks like if I drive the plug cutter deeper into the plug stock, the taper
is thinner and the fit better, but then the plug is way proud of the hole.

I was *hoping* to size the plugs to eliminate the need to flush-trim saw
them all and just be able to sand or scrape them down.

Ughhh...
Any technique improvment is appreciated!
Thanks

I bet with enough test cuts, tweeking the depth stop on your drill press
(and therefore controlling the thickness of the tapered plug) you could get
it within 1/16 proud, with judicious hammer control. Then you could trim
with a chisel.

Hint for chisel trimning: Do *not* pare in the direction of the grain (edge
of chisel edge perpendicular to grain of the plug). If the grain moves down,
the plug will split down below the surface of the surounding wood.

If you approach the plug with the chisel edge parallel to the grain this
will not happen.

-Steve

"patrick conroy" wrote in message
...
Any tips or techniques for cutting plugs? I'm finishing up a Porch Swing
with - oh, maybe 8192 3/8" plugs to cut, glue, finesse and trim...

I've got the Veritas Snug Plug Cutter - and the holes are also 3/8" deep.

First few I cut were too snug. Don't want to try to file or sand that many
to adjust the fit.

Looks like if I drive the plug cutter deeper into the plug stock, the
taper is thinner and the fit better, but then the plug is way proud of the
hole.

I was *hoping* to size the plugs to eliminate the need to flush-trim saw
them all and just be able to sand or scrape them down.


I did a porch swing several years ago and went through the same thing. I
don't recall there being anywhere near 8192 plugs. ;~) . Time and patients
got me through it. I used a Veritas flush trim saw with a flexible blade to
cut the 100
or so plugs and sanded with a ROS. I got to where 2 or 3 pulls of the saw
would cut through the Oak plugs.

"Stephen M" wrote in message

If you approach the plug with the chisel edge parallel to the grain this
will not happen.

Or, just make sure you take notice of the grain direction before inserting
the plug.

True, but...

Reading the z-axis grain direction on a 3/8" plug is not that easy. it's
almost all end-grain



"Upscale" wrote in message
...
"Stephen M" wrote in message

If you approach the plug with the chisel edge parallel to the grain this
will not happen.

Or, just make sure you take notice of the grain direction before inserting
the plug.

I just plugged about 20 - 3/8 holes with oak plugs
in some plywood veneer. Since I did not want to do a lot
of finish sanding for fear of blowing through the veneer,
I tried to get the plugs to a more uniform size.

Instead of popping the plugs, I ran the plug stock through
the TS. The resulting plugs were very uniform, but
unfortunately, my holes varied so that I still had to
chisel/sand somewhat. Also, the plugs tend to shoot out
to the left of the saw blade, so it's a good idea to have a
barrier to stop them.

Maybe this is obvious, but I thought that I'd mention it.

Lou

In article , patrick conroy
wrote:

Any tips or techniques for cutting plugs? I'm finishing up a Porch Swing
with - oh, maybe 8192 3/8" plugs to cut, glue, finesse and trim...

I've got the Veritas Snug Plug Cutter - and the holes are also 3/8" deep.

First few I cut were too snug. Don't want to try to file or sand that many
to adjust the fit.

Looks like if I drive the plug cutter deeper into the plug stock, the taper
is thinner and the fit better, but then the plug is way proud of the hole.

I was *hoping* to size the plugs to eliminate the need to flush-trim saw
them all and just be able to sand or scrape them down.

Ughhh...
Any technique improvment is appreciated!
Thanks

loutent wrote:
I just plugged about 20 - 3/8 holes with oak plugs
in some plywood veneer. Since I did not want to do a lot
of finish sanding for fear of blowing through the veneer,
I tried to get the plugs to a more uniform size.

Instead of popping the plugs, I ran the plug stock through
the TS. The resulting plugs were very uniform, but
unfortunately, my holes varied so that I still had to
chisel/sand somewhat. Also, the plugs tend to shoot out
to the left of the saw blade, so it's a good idea to have a
barrier to stop them.

Maybe this is obvious, but I thought that I'd mention it.

Lou


to keep the plugs from flying, smooth a piece of masking tape the
length of the board before running it through the saw. then you have an
easy to handle strip of plugs.... collated.

patrick conroy wrote:
Any tips or techniques for cutting plugs? I'm finishing up a Porch Swing
with - oh, maybe 8192 3/8" plugs to cut, glue, finesse and trim...



A couple of old tricks.

1) Drill the plugs about 1/4" deeper than necessary in a piece of stock.

2) Cover the face with masking tape.

3) Using a band saw, cut thru the stock so that you have plugs about
1/8" longer than necessary.

4) Peel away stock from masking tape leaving plugs attached to tape.

Plugs are now standing up on the tape with the grain all oriented the
same way ready to be installed.

5) Tap in place and allow adhesive to set for a couple of days.

6) Remove excess with a very sharp chisel using only hand pressure or
one of those Japanese draw saws, then sand.

Have fun.

Lew

"Stephen M" wrote in message
...
I bet with enough test cuts, tweeking the depth stop on your drill press
(and therefore controlling the thickness of the tapered plug) you could
get
it within 1/16 proud, with judicious hammer control. Then you could trim
with a chisel.

Hint for chisel trimning: Do *not* pare in the direction of the grain
(edge
of chisel edge perpendicular to grain of the plug). If the grain moves
down,
the plug will split down below the surface of the surounding wood.

If you approach the plug with the chisel edge parallel to the grain this
will not happen.

I usually pare twice. The first time knocks off most of the excess but
still leaves all sides proud, and lets me know the direction of the grain by
the resulting slope of the surface. The second time I can choose my
direction so I know I won't split below the surface.

- Owen -

"Owen Lawrence" wrote in
:


"Stephen M" wrote in message
...
I bet with enough test cuts, tweeking the depth stop on your drill
press
(and therefore controlling the thickness of the tapered plug) you
could get
it within 1/16 proud, with judicious hammer control. Then you could
trim with a chisel.

Hint for chisel trimning: Do *not* pare in the direction of the grain
(edge
of chisel edge perpendicular to grain of the plug). If the grain
moves down,
the plug will split down below the surface of the surounding wood.

If you approach the plug with the chisel edge parallel to the grain
this will not happen.

I usually pare twice. The first time knocks off most of the excess
but still leaves all sides proud, and lets me know the direction of
the grain by the resulting slope of the surface. The second time I
can choose my direction so I know I won't split below the surface.

- Owen -


Block plane? Sanding block? Flush trim saw with blue tape?

Patriarch

"patrick conroy" wrote in message
...


Any tips or techniques for cutting plugs? I'm finishing up a Porch Swing
with - oh, maybe 8192 3/8" plugs to cut, glue, finesse and trim...


Thanks all!

With a little setup as suggested, I found the optimum plug size.
Then came back with a chisel and ROS.

"Patriarch" wrote in message
. 97.136...
"Owen Lawrence" wrote in
:


"Stephen M" wrote in message
...
I bet with enough test cuts, tweeking the depth stop on your drill
press
(and therefore controlling the thickness of the tapered plug) you
could get
it within 1/16 proud, with judicious hammer control. Then you could
trim with a chisel.

Hint for chisel trimning: Do *not* pare in the direction of the grain
(edge
of chisel edge perpendicular to grain of the plug). If the grain
moves down,
the plug will split down below the surface of the surounding wood.

If you approach the plug with the chisel edge parallel to the grain
this will not happen.

I usually pare twice. The first time knocks off most of the excess
but still leaves all sides proud, and lets me know the direction of
the grain by the resulting slope of the surface. The second time I
can choose my direction so I know I won't split below the surface.

- Owen -


Block plane? Sanding block? Flush trim saw with blue tape?

Patriarch

Chisel. I actually haven't had my block plane long enough to try it on more
than one set of plugs. I goofed on the first plug so I went back to the
chisel for the rest of them. (The one I goofed got sanded with finger
pressure, which basically lowered the edge of the hole far enough to meet
the plug, but not far enough to really be visible.) The only time I saw
them off is if I'm using a dowel, where I've got end grain protruding
instead of cross grain, usually when looks don't matter.

If I had to do 8192 of them I'd probably want a better method.

- Owen -