Hello all,
Has anyone been able to try one out?
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=5353
Thanks,
Gene
--





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I haven't tried it. And I can't for the life of me see why anyone would
want one of these things.


"Gene T" wrote in message
...

Hello all,
Has anyone been able to try one out?
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=5353
Thanks,
Gene
--





This message has been scanned by Norton Anti-virus software

Mike in Mystic wrote:
I haven't tried it. And I can't for the life of me see why anyone would
want one of these things.


I'm with ya'!

I never realized that tensioning a band saw needed to be so exact.

In article , wrote:
Mike in Mystic wrote:
I haven't tried it. And I can't for the life of me see why anyone would
want one of these things.

I never realized that tensioning a band saw needed to be so exact.

My son has a chromatic tuner that he uses for his piano and guitar... I bet
that would work for bandsaw blades, too, just pluck it and adjust the tension
til it hits the right note. And it only cost $20.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt.
And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?

ah, but what is the correct note. Sure it would work though. Once you
got the first note correct. Would a 1/8" blade sound the same as a
3/4" blade when tensioned properly?

Alan

In article . com,
"arw01" wrote:

Would a 1/8" blade sound the same as a
3/4" blade when tensioned properly?

If tuned to the same tension/frequency...certainly.

In article . com,
"arw01" wrote:

ah, but what is the correct note. Sure it would work though. Once you
got the first note correct. Would a 1/8" blade sound the same as a
3/4" blade when tensioned properly?

Alan

E

In article . com, "arw01" wrote:
ah, but what is the correct note. Sure it would work though. Once you
got the first note correct. Would a 1/8" blade sound the same as a
3/4" blade when tensioned properly?

Probably not - I'm picturing a chart taped to the back of the bandsaw that
looks something like
1/2" resaw blade - Bb
1/4" utility blade - E
1/8" scroll blade - G#

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt.
And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time?

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
m...
In article ,
wrote:
Mike in Mystic wrote:
I haven't tried it. And I can't for the life of me see why anyone would
want one of these things.

I never realized that tensioning a band saw needed to be so exact.

My son has a chromatic tuner that he uses for his piano and guitar... I
bet
that would work for bandsaw blades, too, just pluck it and adjust the
tension
til it hits the right note. And it only cost $20.


Just how hard is it on the fingers to "pluck" bandsaw blades??

My fingers hurt just to think about it.

"Lee Michaels" writes:

Just how hard is it on the fingers to "pluck" bandsaw blades??

My fingers hurt just to think about it.

Psst. Do it from the backside - that's the edge without the teeth. :-)


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Sending unsolicited commercial e-mail to this account incurs a fee of
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On Fri, 24 Jun 2005 22:18:53 -0400, "Lee Michaels"
wrote:


"Doug Miller" wrote in message
om...
In article ,
wrote:
Mike in Mystic wrote:
I haven't tried it. And I can't for the life of me see why anyone would
want one of these things.

I never realized that tensioning a band saw needed to be so exact.

My son has a chromatic tuner that he uses for his piano and guitar... I
bet
that would work for bandsaw blades, too, just pluck it and adjust the
tension
til it hits the right note. And it only cost $20.


Just how hard is it on the fingers to "pluck" bandsaw blades??

My fingers hurt just to think about it.

maybe you get a band saw blade pick?



mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

In article ,
"Lee Michaels" wrote:

"Doug Miller" wrote in message
m...
In article ,
wrote:
Mike in Mystic wrote:
I haven't tried it. And I can't for the life of me see why anyone would
want one of these things.

I never realized that tensioning a band saw needed to be so exact.

My son has a chromatic tuner that he uses for his piano and guitar... I
bet
that would work for bandsaw blades, too, just pluck it and adjust the
tension
til it hits the right note. And it only cost $20.


Just how hard is it on the fingers to "pluck" bandsaw blades??

My fingers hurt just to think about it.

It shouldn't be running, silly!

B a r r y wrote in
m:



Mike in Mystic wrote:
I haven't tried it. And I can't for the life of me see why anyone
would want one of these things.


I'm with ya'!

I never realized that tensioning a band saw needed to be so exact.




Goin' from memory - which is fair warning - the Iturra catalog walks
thru an example of using once. Seems to me it was a Lenox (Lennox?)
blade that he wanted to tension to the mfg'rs specifications.

On Fri, 24 Jun 2005 09:04:04 GMT, "Gene T" wrote:


Hello all,
Has anyone been able to try one out?
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=5353
Thanks,
Gene

it looks like a good idea, but adding a $200 accessory to my $300 BS would seem
like taking a gold fish to the vet...


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

In article ,
mac davis wrote:

like taking a gold fish to the vet

*gaSP* You'd just let it swim in circles with a broken fin? You would??

On Fri, 24 Jun 2005 17:38:31 -0400, Robatoy wrote:

In article ,
mac davis wrote:

like taking a gold fish to the vet

*gaSP* You'd just let it swim in circles with a broken fin? You would??

only after giving it lots of room to swim... (flushing it)




mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

Itura has a tension measuring device similar to the Lennox
shown in the Lonnie Bird article referenced elsewhere in
this thread. Price is around $140 US.

Suffolk suggests using The Flutter Method. Open up
the throat to max blade exposure, move the blade
guides back away from the blade and put enough
tension on the blade so it won't spin off the wheels.
Turn on the saw. If the blade's under tensioned it
will flutter. If no fluttering then back off the tension
'til fluttering begins then add tension 'til the
fluttering stops. If you start with fluttering, add
tension until it stop.

Repeating - you need to start with enough tension
to keep the blade on the wheels!

And BTW - check the weld before using any blade.
A bad weld that lets loose with the saw running
will a) accordian an amazing length of band in
the blade guard and b) necessitate a shorts change
(DAMHIKT).

charlie b