I have heard all the advise in this group about how great Johnson's paste wax
is. It is loved, it is recommended, it is needed, "you need it" "I need it" and "oh
it's getting hard to find these days"... I found it at my local true value for $6.99.

I used it on plane blades, cap irons, lever caps, soles and sides too. Thoroughly
done coating and polishing.

Now, nothing derogatory is intended here. But I noticed, when a lot of work is
being done my hands get hot and sweaty, when the protected metal is being
handled, the JPW gets gets "tacky" and it gets on my hands, the metal also needs
a new coating of it.

I also noticed that after a plane has been sittng a while on a shelf there develops
small rust spots, JPW doesn't work too good I think. I suppose a coating needs to
be thin and hard in order not to be obtrusive in any way, and actually work as
intended.

Could there possibly be a better answer for a tool that is actually used and handled
a lot? Perfect wipe-on product? Any help much appreciated.

--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

"AAvK" wrote in message

Could there possibly be a better answer for a tool that is actually used
and handled
a lot? Perfect wipe-on product? Any help much appreciated.

--

I've not had all that good luck with the wax either. I use Top Cote or
Boeshield and get much better results. To remove rust, a product called
Top Saver does an incredible job. Made by tablesaw look like new.

"AAvK" wrote in message
news:QYSre.3112$Ce7.2350@fed1read03...

I have heard all the advise in this group about how great Johnson's paste
wax
is. It is loved, it is recommended, it is needed, "you need it" "I need
it" and "oh
it's getting hard to find these days"... I found it at my local true value
for $6.99.

I used it on plane blades, cap irons, lever caps, soles and sides too.
Thoroughly
done coating and polishing.

Now, nothing derogatory is intended here. But I noticed, when a lot of
work is
being done my hands get hot and sweaty, when the protected metal is being
handled, the JPW gets gets "tacky" and it gets on my hands, the metal also
needs
a new coating of it.

I also noticed that after a plane has been sittng a while on a shelf there
develops
small rust spots, JPW doesn't work too good I think. I suppose a coating
needs to
be thin and hard in order not to be obtrusive in any way, and actually
work as
intended.

Could there possibly be a better answer for a tool that is actually used
and handled
a lot? Perfect wipe-on product? Any help much appreciated.


Lots of them claim they are. I just use WD-40. Doesn't seem to do any
worse than any other method I've tried, and it's a hell of a lot easier.

On Wed, 15 Jun 2005 02:58:12 -0700, AAvK wrote:


I have heard all the advise in this group about how great Johnson's paste
wax is. It is loved, it is recommended, it is needed, "you need it" "I
need it" and "oh it's getting hard to find these days"... I found it at my
local true value for $6.99.

This advice is usually given for tables and other large, flat, machined
surfaces.

...

Could there possibly be a better answer for a tool that is actually used
and handled a lot? Perfect wipe-on product? Any help much appreciated.

I use camellia oil for hand tools. A quick wipe-down after the tool has
been used keeps the rust away. It's traditionally what Japanese
woodworkers use on their hand tools.

--
-Joe Wells

A few tips on using JPW:
Thin coats are better then thick coats, thick coats do not dry properly and
tend to leave holes in the protection. After a thin coat has been applied
and turns cloudy, buff it to a shine, it will dry harder and not be as
subject to getting "tacky" when handled. JPW will evaporate with time to
avoid this multiple then coats can be used to form a thick built up coat.
Common solvents, such used in spray oils, etc. will dissolve JPW even if
they are in the air. Used properly JPW will form a coating that will
protect metal from rust for years. I have been using it for near on to 40
years and have very few problems with it.

Eventually I think most people migrate to Top Cote. Make for this specific
purpose and has been working great for me since 1989. IMHO waxing is a
temporary patch.

"Leon" wrote in
:

Eventually I think most people migrate to Top Cote. Make for this
specific purpose and has been working great for me since 1989. IMHO
waxing is a temporary patch.


This, I think, is a valid experience in Houston, Texas. More temperate
climates, such as coastal areas of California, have fewer problems related
to humidity.

Of course, the ground moves, things burn, and you don't want to ask about
house prices. But the tools don't rust so much. Wax is adequate for me.

Patriarch,
wondering when the plague of locusts is due...

"Patriarch" wrote in message
7.136...
"Leon" wrote in
:


This, I think, is a valid experience in Houston, Texas. More temperate
climates, such as coastal areas of California, have fewer problems related
to humidity.

Ah thanks for saying what I left out. I should have said, for those that
find that Wax is not adequate, Top Cote would be a wise direction to go.

"George" wrote in message
...

"AAvK" wrote in message
news:QYSre.3112$Ce7.2350@fed1read03...

I have heard all the advise in this group about how great Johnson's
paste
wax
is. It is loved, it is recommended, it is needed, "you need it" "I need
it" and "oh
it's getting hard to find these days"... I found it at my local true
value
for $6.99.

I used it on plane blades, cap irons, lever caps, soles and sides too.
Thoroughly
done coating and polishing.

Now, nothing derogatory is intended here. But I noticed, when a lot of
work is
being done my hands get hot and sweaty, when the protected metal is
being
handled, the JPW gets gets "tacky" and it gets on my hands, the metal
also
needs
a new coating of it.

I also noticed that after a plane has been sittng a while on a shelf
there
develops
small rust spots, JPW doesn't work too good I think. I suppose a coating
needs to
be thin and hard in order not to be obtrusive in any way, and actually
work as
intended.

Could there possibly be a better answer for a tool that is actually used
and handled
a lot? Perfect wipe-on product? Any help much appreciated.


Lots of them claim they are. I just use WD-40. Doesn't seem to do any
worse than any other method I've tried, and it's a hell of a lot easier.


I'll second that, although I find WD-40 needs to be re-applied more
frequently. Still, at the end of the day I wouldn't spend more than 10 mins
giving every tool used a quick spray'n'wipe... and I'd wipe down every tool
anyway as part of daily maintenance even if I wasn't using WD-40.

IMHO CRC is a good alternative, although I tend to reserve that for
automotive use. (Wet electrics, etc.)

I should add two things:

1) It dissolves grease so be careful /where/ you use it! On the
flip-side, I've a couple of "squeaky wheels" that can't be regreased.
Cheap tools. [sigh] I liberally apply it *very* regularly then & I'm sure
they've lasted a lot longer than they would've otherwise.

2) I only use it for tools in regular use; "stored" ones need something
longer lasting. Personally I'm happy with light machine oil on infrequently
used tools and a light-weight grease on the rare-use items, but even then
I'll wipe 'em down and give 'em a squirt of WD-40 before use. And a
re-application of oil/grease later, but each to their own. FWIW, I've
inherited a lot of old tools and they're still almost as good as new. Well,
as good as I got 'em, anyway.

'Tis all common sense, really, but that seems to be a rare commodity.

- Andy

Leon,

Ever try Waxilit?

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...=1,43415,43440

--

Rumpty

Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


"Leon" wrote in message
. ..
Eventually I think most people migrate to Top Cote. Make for this
specific
purpose and has been working great for me since 1989. IMHO waxing is a
temporary patch.

"Sweet Sawdust" wrote in message
.. .
A few tips on using JPW:
Thin coats are better then thick coats, thick coats do not dry properly
and
tend to leave holes in the protection. After a thin coat has been applied
and turns cloudy, buff it to a shine, it will dry harder and not be as
subject to getting "tacky" when handled. JPW will evaporate with time to
avoid this multiple then coats can be used to form a thick built up coat.
Common solvents, such used in spray oils, etc. will dissolve JPW even if
they are in the air. Used properly JPW will form a coating that will
protect metal from rust for years. I have been using it for near on to 40
years and have very few problems with it.



Lot of folks disagree that wax alone can form a "thick coat" if buffed off.
Seems they contend that the solvent in the next "coat" dissolves and blends
with the first.

On Wed, 15 Jun 2005 02:58:12 -0700, "AAvK" wrote:


I have heard all the advise in this group about how great Johnson's paste wax
is. It is loved, it is recommended, it is needed, "you need it" "I need it" and "oh
it's getting hard to find these days"... I found it at my local true value for $6.99.

I used it on plane blades, cap irons, lever caps, soles and sides too. Thoroughly
done coating and polishing.

Now, nothing derogatory is intended here. But I noticed, when a lot of work is
being done my hands get hot and sweaty, when the protected metal is being
handled, the JPW gets gets "tacky" and it gets on my hands, the metal also needs
a new coating of it.

I also noticed that after a plane has been sittng a while on a shelf there develops
small rust spots, JPW doesn't work too good I think. I suppose a coating needs to
be thin and hard in order not to be obtrusive in any way, and actually work as
intended.

Could there possibly be a better answer for a tool that is actually used and handled
a lot? Perfect wipe-on product? Any help much appreciated.

in most cases, if you're getting wax on your hands, you either put it on too
thick or didn't buff it enough..

I've been using JPW on saw tables, blades, hand saws, etc., etc. for years and
have never had it transfer or get tacky.. YMMV


mac

Please remove splinters before emailing

A few tips on using JPW:
Thin coats are better then thick coats, thick coats do not dry properly and
tend to leave holes in the protection. After a thin coat has been applied
and turns cloudy, buff it to a shine, it will dry harder and not be as
subject to getting "tacky" when handled. JPW will evaporate with time to
avoid this multiple then coats can be used to form a thick built up coat.
Common solvents, such used in spray oils, etc. will dissolve JPW even if
they are in the air. Used properly JPW will form a coating that will
protect metal from rust for years. I have been using it for near on to 40
years and have very few problems with it.


You have been using it for forty years, I have bought my first can of it,
and I am forty. Irony. So it is just a slower, more careful procedure.
Thanks for the info!

--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

Leon,

Ever try Waxilit?

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...=1,43415,43440

--

Thanks, probably will if I can find it.

--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

"Rumpty" wrote in message
...
Leon,

Ever try Waxilit?


Noooo. but that looks interesting for what it is actually intended. With
Top Cote I apply about once every 6 months and just spray it on. I do not
have to wipe it off.

"AAvK" wrote in message
news:1A0se.66$Lr4.10@fed1read03...

Leon,

Ever try Waxilit?

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...=1,43415,43440

--

Thanks, probably will if I can find it.

LeeValley has it. ;~)

Cosmoline.

"AAvK" wrote in message
news:QYSre.3112$Ce7.2350@fed1read03...

I have heard all the advise in this group about how great Johnson's paste
wax
is. It is loved, it is recommended, it is needed, "you need it" "I need
it" and "oh
it's getting hard to find these days"... I found it at my local true value
for $6.99.

I used it on plane blades, cap irons, lever caps, soles and sides too.
Thoroughly
done coating and polishing.

Now, nothing derogatory is intended here. But I noticed, when a lot of
work is
being done my hands get hot and sweaty, when the protected metal is being
handled, the JPW gets gets "tacky" and it gets on my hands, the metal also
needs
a new coating of it.

I also noticed that after a plane has been sittng a while on a shelf there
develops
small rust spots, JPW doesn't work too good I think. I suppose a coating
needs to
be thin and hard in order not to be obtrusive in any way, and actually
work as
intended.

Could there possibly be a better answer for a tool that is actually used
and handled
a lot? Perfect wipe-on product? Any help much appreciated.

--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

Wax works for me. I live in Seattle.

"Leon" wrote in message
...

"Patriarch" wrote in message
7.136...
"Leon" wrote in
:


This, I think, is a valid experience in Houston, Texas. More temperate
climates, such as coastal areas of California, have fewer problems
related
to humidity.

Ah thanks for saying what I left out. I should have said, for those that
find that Wax is not adequate, Top Cote would be a wise direction to go.

AAvK wrote:

snip


Could there possibly be a better answer for a tool that is actually used and handled
a lot? Perfect wipe-on product? Any help much appreciated.

I shave up paraffin wax & dissolve it in mineral spirits. I keep it in a
spray can I got from harbor fright. (Pressurized with air). I spray
it on and it seems to work for me. Not tacky and doesn't attract dust.

--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA

One billion Chinese can't be Wong.





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I don't use it much on tools, but I do use it on my table saw and
other bench type tool tops with success. It not only protects, but
makes the wood slide around easier.

I also use it as a finish coat on wood boxes I make. I usually stain,
then spray a couple of coats of lacquer then top off with 3-4 coats of
JPW buffed out.

On Wed, 15 Jun 2005 02:58:12 -0700, "AAvK" wrote:


I have heard all the advise in this group about how great Johnson's paste wax
is. It is loved, it is recommended, it is needed, "you need it" "I need it" and "oh
it's getting hard to find these days"... I found it at my local true value for $6.99.

I used it on plane blades, cap irons, lever caps, soles and sides too. Thoroughly
done coating and polishing.

Now, nothing derogatory is intended here. But I noticed, when a lot of work is
being done my hands get hot and sweaty, when the protected metal is being
handled, the JPW gets gets "tacky" and it gets on my hands, the metal also needs
a new coating of it.

I also noticed that after a plane has been sittng a while on a shelf there develops
small rust spots, JPW doesn't work too good I think. I suppose a coating needs to
be thin and hard in order not to be obtrusive in any way, and actually work as
intended.

Could there possibly be a better answer for a tool that is actually used and handled
a lot? Perfect wipe-on product? Any help much appreciated.

I'm not a chemist or anything like that but it does build up to form a thick
coat even when buffed off. Seems that there is only so much solvent in a
gob of wax, when it dries the solvent is gone and the solid particles stay
in place, the next gob put on has the same amount of solvents but is now
dealing with twice as much solids and so on until you get to the point where
a build up starts because not all of the old solids are dissolved. JMO
" Lot of folks disagree that wax alone can form a "thick coat" if buffed
off.
Seems they contend that the solvent in the next "coat" dissolves and
blends
with the first.