Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
Woodworking (rec.woodworking) Discussion forum covering all aspects of working with wood. All levels of expertise are encouraged to particiapte. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
A Trick for long tapers on a table saw?
Problem:
Need a 4 foot board 3.5 inches wide on one end and 3' 5/16'ths on the other. I have a taper jig I bought from Delta (I think) but it's not big enough. Questions: Do I not know how to use the taper jig I have? Do I have to build my own? If so, where can I find plans? Or should I make a larger model of the one I bought? Solution(s): Hopefully the responders of this post will provide..... |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Only one? Double sided tape a straightedge (board) to the top of the board
to be tapered. Tape it at the angle you need. Attach an L shaped bracket (couple of boards nailed together at a right angle) to your tablesaw fence high enough so the workpiece slides under it but the bracket bares on the straitedge. Set fence and run through saw. Alternatively, tape the straightedge as before and use it for a router guide to cut your board. "Never Enough Money" wrote in message oups.com... Problem: Need a 4 foot board 3.5 inches wide on one end and 3' 5/16'ths on the other. I have a taper jig I bought from Delta (I think) but it's not big enough. Questions: Do I not know how to use the taper jig I have? Do I have to build my own? If so, where can I find plans? Or should I make a larger model of the one I bought? Solution(s): Hopefully the responders of this post will provide..... |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Why didn't I think of that? (No need to answer that.)
|
#4
|
|||
|
|||
On 30 May 2005 19:39:12 -0700, "Never Enough Money"
wrote: Need a 4 foot board 3.5 inches wide on one end and 3' 5/16'ths on the other. I have a taper jig I bought from Delta (I think) but it's not big enough. If you need to use a table saw CW's method will work fine. You could also accomplish this easily with a joiner. Mike O. |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
On 31 May 2005 17:31:44 -0700, "Never Enough Money"
wrote: How? If you need 3 1/2" it is easiest if you start with ripping a piece 3 9/16. Set your joiner to 1/16. Put a mark on the end you want to be 3 5/16. Theoretically you will need to make 4 passes to take off the 4/16. Place your board on the joiner with about 16" of the end you want to be narrow on the rear table and make a pass. Move the board to about half way and make another pass. Move the board where almost all of it is on the rear table but an inch or so is still on the front table and make another pass. Now for the final pass run the entire length of the piece. That should do it. Use the mark for reference as you go to be sure your joiner depth is okay for four passes. Use normal joiner use techniques and pay attention to grain direction. You can do this starting with a 3 1/2" piece (in 3 passes) but your last run will have to be the one with the piece barely sitting on the front table. This will cause you to have an inch or so at that end that didn't get any taper. Mike O. |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Never Enough Money wrote:
Problem: Need a 4 foot board 3.5 inches wide on one end and 3' 5/16'ths on the other. I have a taper jig I bought from Delta (I think) but it's not big enough. Time for a router with say a 1/2"-3/4" straight bit, a straight edge and a couple of C-Clamps. Forget the table saw, you will not get the needed accuracy IMHO. Lew |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Hmmm. Why would this method be less accurate than CW's method?
|
#9
|
|||
|
|||
In article .com, "Never Enough Money" wrote:
Problem: Need a 4 foot board 3.5 inches wide on one end and 3' 5/16'ths on the other. I have a taper jig I bought from Delta (I think) but it's not big enough. This is a job for a bandsaw and hand plane. -- Regards, Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com) Nobody ever left footprints in the sands of time by sitting on his butt. And who wants to leave buttprints in the sands of time? |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Doug Miller wrote:
In article .com, "Never Enough Money" wrote: Problem: Need a 4 foot board 3.5 inches wide on one end and 3' 5/16'ths on the other. I have a taper jig I bought from Delta (I think) but it's not big enough. This is a job for a bandsaw and hand plane. Or a task-specific taper sled: http://www.bburke.com/wood/images/Skinnysledtaper1.jpg If the blocks are screwed down, not glued to the sled, it can be easily rearranged for different tapers, Barry |
#11
|
|||
|
|||
That looks like what I'm after....picture is worth a 1000 words....
One could even calibrate it for different tapers. |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
"Never Enough Money" wrote in message ups.com... That looks like what I'm after....picture is worth a 1000 words.... One could even calibrate it for different tapers. when you trim out the entire post you're replying to, no one has any idea what the heck you're talking about. |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
What are you talking about when you say "trim out the entire post."
I view this thread through Google groups and it's really easy to see why replies go with what posts. No confusion..... |
#14
|
|||
|
|||
Seems like a lot more work than CW's method.....
Of course, I could use a bandsaw and a jointer..... |
#15
|
|||
|
|||
"Never Enough Money" wrote in message ups.com... Seems like a lot more work than CW's method..... Of course, I could use a bandsaw and a jointer..... I use a skill saw with a straight edge leaving the pencil line exposed and depending on my mood, either a router with a trim bit or the jointer. SH |
#16
|
|||
|
|||
In article .com,
Never Enough Money wrote: Problem: Need a 4 foot board 3.5 inches wide on one end and 3' 5/16'ths on the other. I have a taper jig I bought from Delta (I think) but it's not big enough. Questions: Do I not know how to use the taper jig I have? Do I have to build my own? If so, where can I find plans? Or should I make a larger model of the one I bought? Solution(s): Hopefully the responders of this post will provide..... Get, say, a 1X6 about 4 1/2 feet long, set your fence to its width. Attach the board to be tapered to the 1X6 using brads, hot glude, capet tape, or some type of purpose-made hold down, such that the cut line aligns with the left edge of 1X6. Then push the whole thing through the saw against the fence. -- Larry Wasserman Baltimore, Maryland |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
router/outfeed table; previously charted territory? | Woodworking | |||
An Ultimate Router Table - Part I: A Short Story | Woodworking | |||
How Wide Should an Outfeed Table be? | Woodworking | |||
New bandsaw saga PartII (long) | Woodworking | |||
table saw aux table question | Woodworking |