Hello
I've Googled and can't find the answer to a problem I've run into. First
I'll tell you that I've use water base poly finishes before with perfect
results. I've recently refinished two Ethan Allen dinning room chairs and am
disappointed with the results. I did everything the same as the coffee table
I did, even using the same can of poly and base stain and new brushes. But
the chairs turned out cloudy looking, not perfectly clear like the coffee
table. Anyone have any ideas as to why? And how do I fix it? Hopefully you
don't tell me to refinish
again, as it was a heck of a lot of hand sanding.

Thanks
Lane

"Mums" the word, then. g

Dave

Lane wrote:

Hopefully you
don't tell me to refinish
again, as it was a heck of a lot of hand sanding.

Thanks
Lane

It sounds like too thick an application or even too fast a recoat.

Happy sanding!

--

Rumpty

Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start

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"Lane" lane (no spam) at copperaccents dot com wrote in message
news
Hello
I've Googled and can't find the answer to a problem I've run into. First
I'll tell you that I've use water base poly finishes before with perfect
results. I've recently refinished two Ethan Allen dinning room chairs and
am
disappointed with the results. I did everything the same as the coffee
table
I did, even using the same can of poly and base stain and new brushes. But
the chairs turned out cloudy looking, not perfectly clear like the coffee
table. Anyone have any ideas as to why? And how do I fix it? Hopefully you
don't tell me to refinish
again, as it was a heck of a lot of hand sanding.

Thanks
Lane

"David" wrote in message
...
"Mums" the word, then. g

Dave

Lane wrote:

Hopefully you
don't tell me to refinish
again, as it was a heck of a lot of hand sanding.

Thanks
Lane

Damn, I thought you'd say that. Rats....
Lane

Been my experience that foam brushes work best on this type of finish. The
foam eliminates the little air bubbles that a bristle or polyester brush
will make.... and dont over brush....sand very lightly between coats with
220...just enought to scuff the surface and create a mechanical bond with
the next coat.

JuanKnighter wrote:

Been my experience that foam brushes work best on this type of finish. The
foam eliminates the little air bubbles that a bristle or polyester brush
will make.... and dont over brush....sand very lightly between coats with
220...just enought to scuff the surface and create a mechanical bond with
the next coat.

I'd use at least 320, though...

Actually, HVLP works best for WBP. g

Dave

JuanKnighter wrote:

Been my experience that foam brushes work best on this type of finish. The
foam eliminates the little air bubbles that a bristle or polyester brush
will make.... and dont over brush....sand very lightly between coats with
220...just enought to scuff the surface and create a mechanical bond with
the next coat.

Of course, but who has one?

Time for you to pony up the big bucks for one! I was reticent about
dropping so much cash on one, but eventually I realized there's no free
lunch. I've not regretted buying my Accuspray and all the extra tips
/nozzles, and caps that allow me to spray anything from a dye stain, all
the way up to the once-ina-blue-moon-application of latex (hardly the
purpose for which I bought the unit). Someday I'll use it with latex to
repaint interior doors that have been painted with a paint pad and have
those pesky little ridges to show for it, even though I used Floetrol.
I've sprayed only a couple of interior doors; they look fantastic!

Once you've used a quality HVLP unit, you then understand why they are
so horribly expensive; the fact is they work well, are easy to master,
and beat the pants off other application methods OR NOBODY WOULD BE
BUYING THEM. Kinda like an iPod. They aren't cheap, but oh, does the
music sound great, and the interface is superb.

Dave

JuanKnighter wrote:

Of course, but who has one?

I just re-read my post and see that I've given the impression I've not
used the unit with latex yet. I have a couple of times, but the doors
project is one that keeps coming to mind as a future project. Thin
latex about 15% with water/Floetrol for best results. MFGR suggests
20%. I see no need going that thin.

Dave

David wrote:

Someday I'll use it with latex to
repaint interior doors that have been painted with a paint pad and have
those pesky little ridges to show for it, even though I used Floetrol.
I've sprayed only a couple of interior doors; they look fantastic!