can I just rant for a few, I like working with popular it, it's cheep enough
that I'm not paniced if I mess up, and by and large it's a very attractive
wood, but THE BLOCHING! I did two coats of minwax stain conditioner, let
one dry over night, then put another on an hour before I stained and it
still blotched!

ok now I'm done it's ok, I'll be fine


--
if corn oil is made from corn, and olive oil is made from olives, where dose
baby oil come from?

On Tue, 10 May 2005 16:32:32 -0600, Richard Clements
wrote:

can I just rant for a few, I like working with popular it, it's cheep enough
that I'm not paniced if I mess up, and by and large it's a very attractive
wood, but THE BLOCHING! I did two coats of minwax stain conditioner, let
one dry over night, then put another on an hour before I stained and it
still blotched!

ok now I'm done it's ok, I'll be fine

Why? Because it's popular. Even in Finland. I've found though that
stuff made from popular keeps me awake at night. It goes cheep,
cheep, cheep all night. And when it gets older, it crows at sunrise.

Butt that's wye aye switched two poplar. Knot such a pane too Finnish.

Wes Stewart wrote:
On Tue, 10 May 2005 16:32:32 -0600, Richard Clements
wrote:

can I just rant for a few, I like working with popular it, it's
cheep enough that I'm not paniced if I mess up, and by and large
it's a very attractive wood, but THE BLOCHING! I did two coats of
minwax stain conditioner, let one dry over night, then put another
on an hour before I stained and it still blotched!

ok now I'm done it's ok, I'll be fine


Paint!

Never heard of popular. Are you referring to poplar?

"Richard Clements" wrote in message
.. .
can I just rant for a few, I like working with popular it, it's cheep
enough
that I'm not paniced if I mess up, and by and large it's a very attractive
wood, but THE BLOCHING! I did two coats of minwax stain conditioner, let
one dry over night, then put another on an hour before I stained and it
still blotched!

ok now I'm done it's ok, I'll be fine


--
if corn oil is made from corn, and olive oil is made from olives, where
dose
baby oil come from?

if corn oil is made from corn, and olive oil is made from olives, where
dose
baby oil come from?


ground up babies of course - stooopid....

(and I don't even dare sign this one......)

In article ,
"firstjois" wrote:

Wes Stewart wrote:
On Tue, 10 May 2005 16:32:32 -0600, Richard Clements
wrote:

can I just rant for a few, I like working with popular it, it's
cheep enough that I'm not paniced if I mess up, and by and large
it's a very attractive wood, but THE BLOCHING! I did two coats of
minwax stain conditioner, let one dry over night, then put another
on an hour before I stained and it still blotched!

ok now I'm done it's ok, I'll be fine


Paint!

But if you thin the paint too much, you'll have to do it again...hence:

Repaint!! And thin no more!

Robatoy wrote:

In article ,
"firstjois" wrote:


[snip]
Paint!


But if you thin the paint too much, you'll have to do it again...hence:

Repaint!! And thin no more!

Another escapee from the state home for the criminally silly...
:-)
j4

BobS wrote:

if corn oil is made from corn, and olive oil is made from olives, where
dose
baby oil come from?



ground up babies of course - stooopid....

(and I don't even dare sign this one......)



I heard that Oil of Olay is made from the sweat of Mexican
bullfighters.

--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX

In article ,
says...
if corn oil is made from corn, and olive oil is made from olives, where
dose
baby oil come from?


ground up babies of course - stooopid....

(and I don't even dare sign this one......)




Human Beings (beans)

Hi Richard,
One of our clients is a pool / billiard table company and we have found that
more and more tables are made of poplar, stained to look something like maple
only with the grain obscured. As to your problem, I have had limited success
with conditioners however I think you should change your application method. As
the material evaporates over time, the coat applied the night before was
probably all gone while the second coat was well on it's way after an hour.
I have found a better way is to either apply Sealcoat first and then use a
compatible stain or to spray a WB dye and do not wipe. Cheers, JG
Richard Clements wrote:

can I just rant for a few, I like working with popular it, it's cheep enough
that I'm not paniced if I mess up, and by and large it's a very attractive
wood, but THE BLOCHING! I did two coats of minwax stain conditioner, let
one dry over night, then put another on an hour before I stained and it
still blotched!

ok now I'm done it's ok, I'll be fine

--
if corn oil is made from corn, and olive oil is made from olives, where dose
baby oil come from?

"James "Cubby" Culbertson" wrote in message
...
Never heard of popular. Are you referring to poplar?


More important, is he referring to poplar as in Populus sp. , or that
magnolia masquerading under the noble name of poplar? World of difference
between the two.

jo4hn wrote:
Robatoy wrote:

In article ,
"firstjois" wrote:


[snip]
Paint!


But if you thin the paint too much, you'll have to do it
again...hence:

Repaint!! And thin no more!

Another escapee from the state home for the criminally silly...
:-)
j4

Yep, time for ---- the Spanish Inquisition!

Josie

Richard Clements says...

can I just rant for a few, I like working with popular it, it's cheep enough
that I'm not paniced if I mess up, and by and large it's a very attractive
wood, but THE BLOCHING! I did two coats of minwax stain conditioner, let
one dry over night, then put another on an hour before I stained and it
still blotched!

ok now I'm done it's ok, I'll be fine

Your first coat of stain conditioner was for naught since you waited too
long. The second coat should have fared better, but you learned as I
did that the product isn't a miracle cure. In my opinion poplar has
very few redeeming qualities and is not a particularly good bargain
considering I can get oak, ash, soft maple or Kentucky coffeetree for
only pennies more per board foot. It's soft, weak and gets fuzzy no
matter what you do. Grain and figure are non-existent, due partly to
the fact that the fuzziness destroys any luster any other wood might get
from good planing.

MOST people use it where it will not be seen or paint it.


"Richard Clements" wrote in message
.. .
can I just rant for a few, I like working with popular it, it's cheep
enough
that I'm not paniced if I mess up, and by and large it's a very attractive
wood, but THE BLOCHING! I did two coats of minwax stain conditioner, let
one dry over night, then put another on an hour before I stained and it
still blotched!

ok now I'm done it's ok, I'll be fine


--
if corn oil is made from corn, and olive oil is made from olives, where
dose
baby oil come from?

On Wed, 11 May 2005 09:25:02 -0500, Hax Planx
wrote:

Your first coat of stain conditioner was for naught since you waited too
long. The second coat should have fared better, but you learned as I
did that the product isn't a miracle cure. In my opinion poplar has
very few redeeming qualities and is not a particularly good bargain
considering I can get oak, ash, soft maple or Kentucky coffeetree for
only pennies more per board foot. It's soft, weak and gets fuzzy no
matter what you do. Grain and figure are non-existent, due partly to
the fact that the fuzziness destroys any luster any other wood might get
from good planing.

Sounds to me like you got cottonwood rather than poplar, since all the
poplar I've seen produces little to no fuzz when worked and actually
develops a rather nice luster when planed or finish sanded.

Poplar is still better as secondary wood or under paint, though.

--
"We need to make a sacrifice to the gods, find me a young virgin... oh, and bring something to kill"

Tim Douglass

http://www.DouglassClan.com

In article ,
says...
Poplar is still better as secondary wood or under paint, though.

Well, it's strictly a matter of taste, but I like the poplar with the
greenish cast with nothing but a shellac finish. The problem is, of
course, that the green gradually goes away - not so gradually in
sunlight :-).

I built a tall magazine rack for a friend using poplar for the rack and
alder for the two uprights and he loves it.

--
BNSF = Build Now, Seep Forever

"firstjois" wrote in message
...
jo4hn wrote:
Robatoy wrote:

In article ,
"firstjois" wrote:


[snip]
Paint!


But if you thin the paint too much, you'll have to do it
again...hence:

Repaint!! And thin no more!

Another escapee from the state home for the criminally silly...
:-)
j4

Yep, time for ---- the Spanish Inquisition!

Josie


The Inquisition...what a show
The Inquisition...here we go...

Greetings and Salutations....

On Wed, 11 May 2005 09:39:34 -0400, "firstjois"
wrote:

jo4hn wrote:
Robatoy wrote:

In article ,
"firstjois" wrote:


[snip]
Paint!


But if you thin the paint too much, you'll have to do it
again...hence:

Repaint!! And thin no more!

Another escapee from the state home for the criminally silly...
:-)
j4

Yep, time for ---- the Spanish Inquisition!

Josie


YAAAA!!!!!
I did NOT expect that!
G.D.R.
Dave Mundt

In article ,
Robatoy wrote:
In article ,
"firstjois" wrote:

Wes Stewart wrote:
On Tue, 10 May 2005 16:32:32 -0600, Richard Clements
wrote:

can I just rant for a few, I like working with popular it, it's
cheep enough that I'm not paniced if I mess up, and by and large
it's a very attractive wood, but THE BLOCHING! I did two coats of
minwax stain conditioner, let one dry over night, then put another
on an hour before I stained and it still blotched!

ok now I'm done it's ok, I'll be fine


Paint!

But if you thin the paint too much, you'll have to do it again...hence:

Repaint!! And thin no more!

That is, they say, the unvarnished truth.o

Use a water based stain. I use General Finish. I've had good success.
Of course raise and sand the grain first.

BW

In article ,
(Dave Mundt) wrote:



YAAAA!!!!!
I did NOT expect that!

Nobody ever does.........