Could someone tell me if I need to adjust the carbureter setting on
this chainsaw? It mostly works perfectly until it runs out of gas, then
its a REAL PITA to start it again and it splutters for a second and
quits. Then I pull it 20 times, no luck. I persever and get it to
splutter to life, stall, try again, stall, again.....yawn my arms are
already tired..... and if I bring the revs up VERY slowly I can get it
to full speed and use it. After then, it may cut out, maybe not.

I've used the thing 2 days now. When its working properly, its a DREAM
of a chainsaw. My other MS460 never quits on me. Air filter is clean,
its NEW damnit!

Hope its just a setting,

Dean
(ps thinking it might need adjusting to lower altitude as I'm in NJ,
height around 100' above sea level?)

Ps its fresh Sunoco regular gasoline, with oil stabilizer and Stihl oil
to the right mix.

wrote in message
oups.com...
Ps its fresh Sunoco regular gasoline, with oil stabilizer and Stihl oil
to the right mix.


Not to say it's your problem, but I ran my chainsaw dry _once_ , and went
through something similar, until I opened and cleaned the flapper valve in
the carb. A shaving clogged it.

Be real careful when you're fueling so as not to get gunk in the tank, and
don't let it run all the way out.

I swish and dump occasionally now.

wrote in message

I've used the thing 2 days now. When its working properly, its a DREAM
of a chainsaw. My other MS460 never quits on me. Air filter is clean,
its NEW damnit!

Hope its just a setting,

Dean

Could just be a setting. Since it is new, your deal will be happy to make
any adjustments needed. My dealer runs them before you take it out of the
store.

Good call George, I'll try that.

Edwin - they ran it in the shop too, before I bought it. Seems to only
happen when its hot though. I'll call them tomorrow.

Dean

There's no harm in opening the high speed needle a half turn or so. It
sounds like it's a little lean. My 260 doesn't like going dry either, but
only takes maybe ten pulls. I usually get some warning sputters before it
goes dry.
Wilson
wrote in message
oups.com...
Good call George, I'll try that.

Edwin - they ran it in the shop too, before I bought it. Seems to only
happen when its hot though. I'll call them tomorrow.

Dean

wrote in message
oups.com...

I've used the thing 2 days now. When its working properly, its a DREAM
of a chainsaw. My other MS460 never quits on me. Air filter is clean,
its NEW damnit!

Hope its just a setting,

Dean
(ps thinking it might need adjusting to lower altitude as I'm in NJ,
height around 100' above sea level?)

The new 2-stroke saws are jetted so lean they will barely run or start when
cold. Most of them don't even have mixture screws anymore!
I have three Stihl saws, 064, 026, 180. When I run 'em dry I pull off the
air filter and hold my thumb (or whatever is handy) over the carb intake.
Pull the starter a few times and you will prime the system enough to start.
Actually I don't do this on the 064 as it is a big engine and would suck my
thumb right off.
Dean (not original poster)

If you are running it out of gas it sounds like air in the lines. If it has
a primer, pump it several times after refueling to purge the air out of the
lines.

Try not to run it out of gas.


wrote in message
oups.com...
Could someone tell me if I need to adjust the carbureter setting on
this chainsaw? It mostly works perfectly until it runs out of gas, then
its a REAL PITA to start it again and it splutters for a second and
quits. Then I pull it 20 times, no luck. I persever and get it to
splutter to life, stall, try again, stall, again.....yawn my arms are
already tired..... and if I bring the revs up VERY slowly I can get it
to full speed and use it. After then, it may cut out, maybe not.

I've used the thing 2 days now. When its working properly, its a DREAM
of a chainsaw. My other MS460 never quits on me. Air filter is clean,
its NEW damnit!

Hope its just a setting,

Dean
(ps thinking it might need adjusting to lower altitude as I'm in NJ,
height around 100' above sea level?)

Ok thanks all. It does seem to splutter to a stop quite often though,
even once its been running for a while.

Dean

On 8 May 2005 15:07:14 -0700, the inscrutable "
spake:

Could someone tell me if I need to adjust the carbureter setting on
this chainsaw? It mostly works perfectly until it runs out of gas, then
its a REAL PITA to start it again and it splutters for a second and
quits. Then I pull it 20 times, no luck. I persever and get it to
splutter to life, stall, try again, stall, again.....yawn my arms are
already tired..... and if I bring the revs up VERY slowly I can get it
to full speed and use it. After then, it may cut out, maybe not.

It sounds like a fuel and/or mixture problem and is PROBABLY just your
lack of experience with that machine (or 2-strokes in general.) Give
it a week and you'll be on to all of its little quirks.


I've used the thing 2 days now. When its working properly, its a DREAM
of a chainsaw. My other MS460 never quits on me. Air filter is clean,
its NEW damnit!

Hope its just a setting,

Does it have a priming bulb? I find that my neighbor's Husky needs a
prime again after just 90 seconds or so of off time. It cools quickly.
Also, running the choke ON for one pull will self-prime it and it will
start the very next pull if I forget to bulb-prime it.


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Nope I've been using many different such machines for years now. Other
Stihl always works fine. There's no priming bulb.

Isn't it the low speed (idle) that I need to adjust?

wrote in message
oups.com...
Isn't it the low speed (idle) that I need to adjust?


Probably. However, if you look in the manual, you'll see a base setting for
both. I generally start there every time, then adjust slow speed and high
speed as required.

Clean the filter before you adjust, as a dirty makes for a rich mix.

Yeah I was just letting it run dry before refueling. Guess I'll have to
change my ways!

THX

Dean

I wonder if storing a 2 stroke for a few months, one should leave the
carb. dry or not?
Tom

"Tom M" wrote in message
...
I wonder if storing a 2 stroke for a few months, one should leave the
carb. dry or not?
Tom


No worries. It'll evaporate to dry.

Of course, most recommend draining.

On Tue, 10 May 2005 08:52:59 -0500, the inscrutable
(Tom M) spake:

I wonder if storing a 2 stroke for a few months, one should leave the
carb. dry or not?

Run it dry if possible to prevent the oil in the gas from hardening
into a sticky mass in the bottom of the bowl, etc.


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Hi, Dean.

Had that sort of thing happen to a saw with its gas tank right next to
crankcase. Some call it "vapor-lock." If I gave it a little cool-down
time, or started it with choke, all was fine.

Your gas pickup should be on a flexible hose in the tank (with a filter
on it), so it's always sucking at or near the bottom, regardless of
saw's orientation. Thus making sudden sucking of debris on running dry
a non-event.

HTH,
John

In article ,
Larry Jaques wrote:

I wonder if storing a 2 stroke for a few months, one should leave the
carb. dry or not?

Run it dry if possible to prevent the oil in the gas from hardening
into a sticky mass in the bottom of the bowl, etc.

Somewhere or other I read that for best storage and engine longevity one
should use premium grade gas for things like chainsaws, trimmers and
lawnmowers - as well as to top the tank at the end of every usage.

Anyone have a definitive answer?
--
Owen Lowe
The Fly-by-Night Copper Company
__________

"I pledge allegiance to the flag of the
Corporate States of America and to the
Republicans for which it stands, one nation,
under debt, easily divisible, with liberty
and justice for oil."
- Wiley Miller, Non Sequitur, 1/24/05

Tom M wrote:
I wonder if storing a 2 stroke for a few months, one should leave the
carb. dry or not?
Tom

Huh? As soon as you turn the engine off the carb
dries out. Or do you mean draining the the fuel?
I have never drained anything out of my 2 stroke
engines, mostly chain saws. Never had a problem
and usually sit from October to May. Hey there is
oil in that gas, right? The fuel tank is fairly
tight, so there is little evaporation, especially
with an oil/gas mixture. Everyone that I know
that drains, 2 cycle and small cycle engines of
gas, has problems. Now store it for 2-3years is a
bit different.

"Fly-by-Night CC" wrote in message
news
Somewhere or other I read that for best storage and engine longevity one
should use premium grade gas for things like chainsaws, trimmers and
lawnmowers - as well as to top the tank at the end of every usage.

Anyone have a definitive answer?

Premium is supposed to have anti-varnish ingredients, though I've read that
regular does, too. I use premium, because the book said so. The oil has
fuel stabilizers, too.

Do NOT use gasohol.

My mower, blower, and splitter engines say drain, put oil in the cylinder,
and cycle it a couple times for storage.

Right.
If low is lean, you can get sag when opening the throttle. If high is also
lean, it can sag more or die. Excessive lean causes poor running and excess
heat, so get it right.

The engine should be able to idle for several minutes without loading up and
smoking, or quitting. You should be able to open the throttle quickly and
get smoothly increasing RPM. Both need to be right, experiment. High has
to be a little rich, to keep from bogging down under hard cutting.
Wilson
"George" george@least wrote in message
...

wrote in message
oups.com...
Isn't it the low speed (idle) that I need to adjust?


Probably. However, if you look in the manual, you'll see a base setting
for
both. I generally start there every time, then adjust slow speed and high
speed as required.

Clean the filter before you adjust, as a dirty makes for a rich mix.