I want to get a small plane from LV; either the apron plane or standard
block plane, or maybe the LA block plane.

I've got a shoulder plane and LA smoother. Without buying one of
EVERYTHING, which one in the first paragraph would you not want to be
without. Someday, I'll get more, and more, but for NOW, which one do
YOU think is indispensable. In a perfect world, I'd already own each
one of LV's planes.

Dave

"David" wrote in message
...
I want to get a small plane from LV; either the apron plane or standard
block plane, or maybe the LA block plane.

I went with the low angle block plane and have not been sorry.

Hi Dave,

You might want to look at this article

http://home.pacbell.net/paulcomi/Spe...and_planes.htm

I have a Stanley jack and a Veritas low angle block plane. Seems like a
standard combo. Now I want a shoulder plane!

-Peter

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What I've learned about sharpening plane blades
http://members.shaw.ca/petermichaux/...harpening.html

"David" wrote in message
...
I want to get a small plane from LV; either the apron plane or standard
block plane, or maybe the LA block plane.

I've got a shoulder plane and LA smoother. Without buying one of
EVERYTHING, which one in the first paragraph would you not want to be
without. Someday, I'll get more, and more, but for NOW, which one do
YOU think is indispensable. In a perfect world, I'd already own each
one of LV's planes.

Dave

Why not try out a nice handmade plane from one of the frequent posters here?
Variety is the spice of life.

-j

Dave,

I can't give you a comparison between the LV planes because I only have
the apron plane with the A2 steel but I can tell you that I have been
very happy with it. I think I may go the the standard block plane next,
or possibly a smoother. Have fun.

Dale

David wrote in news:erKdnSCIBIAop-XfRVn-
:

I want to get a small plane from LV; either the apron plane or
standard
block plane, or maybe the LA block plane.

I've got a shoulder plane and LA smoother. Without buying one of
EVERYTHING, which one in the first paragraph would you not want to be
without. Someday, I'll get more, and more, but for NOW, which one do
YOU think is indispensable. In a perfect world, I'd already own each
one of LV's planes.

Dave

Well, some of us DO go overboard at times. I have, or did have, one of
each.

The apron plane is a sweet, small trimmer, always at hand when just a
little dab needs to be taken off. It's a low angle plane, better on end
grain than edge grain.

The LV standard angle block is a good bit larger, every bit as good a
plane, and more adjustable. I bought it for my dad, to 'replace' the
funky Stanley Handyman block plane I'd liberated from his toolbox 15
years earlier. He 'keeps it in my shop', he says, because that's the
only time he does anything remotely fine woodworking. I keep it sharp,
and rust free.

The LV LA block plane lasted 2 weeks, before I gave it to the father of
one of my son's wife. He admired its beauty and versatility, so I gave
it to him. He was overjoyed, uses it frequently, and brought me a minty
pre-WW2 Stanley #7 that was excess to his needs. (We get along well.
He's a good wood scrounge, and has been know to drop by with really
turning stock, just because he can't stand to see it burned as
firewood.)

The plane that gets used most often in this range, in my shop, is the LN
9 1/2, standard angle adjustable mouth block.

http://www.lie-nielsen.com/tool.html?id=60_5

It fits my hand, does everything asked of it, and feels good doing it.
It's narrower than the LV, somewhat lighter feeling, although the mass
is concentrated, and really, really well made. I keep a second blade
sharpened at a higher angle for nasty woods. $135 from any number of
sellers.

Those are all nice tools, and you don't need all of them. Neither do I,
or the three other Stanley block planes that are kicking around, or are
part of the 'traveling kit'. Were I to add another small plane, it
would almost certainly be one of Steve Knight's new small finishing
planes, with the brass screw cap. But that's a want, not a need, for
me. The coffin smoother (50* padauk) he built for me last year is one
sweet tool.

So many options. Such a joy to use.

Patriarch

On Tue, 3 May 2005 21:54:19 -0700, "J" wrote:

Why not try out a nice handmade plane from one of the frequent posters here?

Good plan ! I'm going to make myself a little smoother out of that
dense (if somewhat unstable) blockhead, BAD. Then an inset strikeblock
of V. kuhnia.

On Tue, 03 May 2005 20:00:17 -0700, David wrote:

I want to get a small plane from LV; either the apron plane or standard
block plane, or maybe the LA block plane.

LA block. With the adjustable mouth.

I don't see a function for the apron plane. Maybe for equipping a
well-heeled school workshop. I'm sure it's a good plane, but the others
are just even better.


--
Cats have nine lives, which is why they rarely post to Usenet.

"David" wrote in message
...
I want to get a small plane from LV; either the apron plane or standard
block plane, or maybe the LA block plane.

I've got a shoulder plane and LA smoother. Without buying one of
EVERYTHING, which one in the first paragraph would you not want to be
without. Someday, I'll get more, and more, but for NOW, which one do
YOU think is indispensable. In a perfect world, I'd already own each
one of LV's planes.


My voice to the chorus for the low-angle. Only advantage to the standard
angle is that it can be used to remove wood faster, when necessary.

As to apron versus standard? Standard carries in one of those gore-tex belt
pouches, too. Used to do it.

If you just want tiny to touch up a corner or chamfer a tenon end, get the
Kuntz or other brand palm plane. It's so small you can wear it as jewelry.

David wrote:
I want to get a small plane from LV; either the apron plane or standard
block plane, or maybe the LA block plane.


LA block would be my next purchase.

Barry

David wrote in :

I want to get a small plane from LV; either the apron plane or standard
block plane, or maybe the LA block plane.


As with others here, the LA block. It's very versatile. You might think
about getting the chamfer attachment for it as well -- I like that a lot,
it works really well. Will teach you to read grain. DAMHIKT.

Regards,

JT

Peter, a special thanks to you for the link! I spent a good deal of
time reading the descriptions of each plane and their functions. I even
read up a bit on wooden planes.

At this point I'm leaning towards the block or LA block instead of the
apron plane.

Dave


Hi Dave,

You might want to look at this article

http://home.pacbell.net/paulcomi/Spe...and_planes.htm

I have a Stanley jack and a Veritas low angle block plane. Seems like a
standard combo. Now I want a shoulder plane!

-Peter

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
What I've learned about sharpening plane blades
http://members.shaw.ca/petermichaux/...harpening.html

Thanks to everyone for your recommendations. I'll skip the apron plane
and go with a block.

I'd love to have the large shoulder plane, too. sigh... g


Dave

David wrote:

I want to get a small plane from LV; either the apron plane or standard
block plane, or maybe the LA block plane.

I've got a shoulder plane and LA smoother. Without buying one of
EVERYTHING, which one in the first paragraph would you not want to be
without. Someday, I'll get more, and more, but for NOW, which one do
YOU think is indispensable. In a perfect world, I'd already own each
one of LV's planes.

Dave

Hi Dave -

My choice would be Apron plane... I use that more than my LA Block....High
Carbon blade to boot...

Cheers -

Rob

"David" wrote in message
...
I want to get a small plane from LV; either the apron plane or standard
block plane, or maybe the LA block plane.

I've got a shoulder plane and LA smoother. Without buying one of
EVERYTHING, which one in the first paragraph would you not want to be
without. Someday, I'll get more, and more, but for NOW, which one do
YOU think is indispensable. In a perfect world, I'd already own each
one of LV's planes.

Dave

Robin Lee wrote:

Hi Dave -

My choice would be Apron plane... I use that more than my LA Block....High
Carbon blade to boot...

Oh sure ... but what do you know about them anyway? (Hi, Rob ... so
when's the honing guide hitting the streets? :-)

It's funny that you would pick the apron plane. That's the one
plane of yours that has seen very little use in my shop.

But I must admit, when I needed to level the laminations after
glueup for a trout net I was making, it was exactly the right tool. I
was able to "stop on a dime" and work the curve without getting any
tearout as the grain direction changed. I expect it might be nice for
bamboo rodmaking or guitarmaking as well.


Chuck Vance (but give me the LV LA for my everyday block plane)

On Thu, 05 May 2005 13:56:35 -0500, Conan The Librarian
wrote:

It's funny that you would pick the apron plane. That's the one
plane of yours that has seen very little use in my shop.

If I had one I'd probably use it (I might even buy one yet, for on-site
toolbag duty). The question for most of us isn't which one to _use_,
it's which one to _buy_.

Andy Dingley wrote:

On Thu, 05 May 2005 13:56:35 -0500, Conan The Librarian
wrote:

It's funny that you would pick the apron plane. That's the one
plane of yours that has seen very little use in my shop.

If I had one I'd probably use it (I might even buy one yet, for
on-site
toolbag duty). The question for most of us isn't which one to _use_,
it's which one to _buy_.

Sure, and that's why I made my post in the first place. I couldn't
recommend it as the "next plane" to buy, given my experience.

Or have I missed your point altogether?


Chuck Vance

On 5 May 2005 16:07:04 -0700, "Conan The Librarian"
wrote:

Or have I missed your point altogether?

My point is that Robin Lee probably has a bigger and better-stocked tool
cabinet than most of us. His choice of what to use isn't necessarily
relevant for the rest of us.

"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
...
On 5 May 2005 16:07:04 -0700, "Conan The Librarian"
wrote:

Or have I missed your point altogether?

My point is that Robin Lee probably has a bigger and better-stocked tool
cabinet than most of us. His choice of what to use isn't necessarily
relevant for the rest of us.

I'm also having trouble comprehending this. Sure, he may have one of each
of the Veritas planes, but he still uses the apron plane the most. Must be
a reason.


Maybe if you answered a couple of questions I could follow you better. If I
had an apron plane as well as a smoother, a jack plane, shoulder plane and
rabbet plane, what one should I use to break a sharp edge?

If I had one each of every tool in the Lee Valley catalog, what would be a
good tool to use for that same operation?


Seems to me, no matter how big the tool selection, for many uses the apron
plane could be a good choice.

Just when I thought I had it all figured out...

Dave

Robin Lee wrote:

Hi Dave -

My choice would be Apron plane... I use that more than my LA Block....High
Carbon blade to boot...

Cheers -

Rob

"David" wrote in message
...

I want to get a small plane from LV; either the apron plane or standard
block plane, or maybe the LA block plane.

I've got a shoulder plane and LA smoother. Without buying one of
EVERYTHING, which one in the first paragraph would you not want to be
without. Someday, I'll get more, and more, but for NOW, which one do
YOU think is indispensable. In a perfect world, I'd already own each
one of LV's planes.

Dave

On Thu, 05 May 2005 18:34:15 -0700, David wrote:

Just when I thought I had it all figured out...

Dave

Go with the LA Block as everyone has suggested - surface smooth as
glass...
When you have a plane cabinet as large as Robin's then you can add the
Apron plane.

TWS

I want to get a small plane from LV; either the apron plane or standard
block plane, or maybe the LA block plane.

I've got a shoulder plane and LA smoother. Without buying one of EVERYTHING, which one in the first paragraph would you not want
to be without. Someday, I'll get more, and more, but for NOW, which one do YOU think is indispensable. In a perfect world, I'd
already own each one of LV's planes.

Dave


I bought the Veritas low angle block plane and it is a superbly well made tool,
just about strictly impressive (as it were), though from all I have seen of other
labp blocks, Veritas makes theirs slightly incorrectly with the blade being 1/4"
too wide, same as the 20º block. The blade should be 1-3/8" wide rather than
the current 1-5/8". The point being is one_of_the_main_purposes of any labp
being to work on end grain, the blade being narrower cuts down on resistance.
End grain is tough to plane. The blade of the Veritas apron plane is 1-1/4" wide.

--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

.... Also, the apron plane is only 1/2" shorter, no adjustable mouth though
it is narrow enough.

--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

On Thu, 05 May 2005 23:55:07 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski"
wrote:

Maybe if you answered a couple of questions I could follow you better. If I
had an apron plane as well as a smoother, a jack plane, shoulder plane and
rabbet plane, what one should I use to break a sharp edge?

Obviously the apron plane. However the question here is whether a
limited budget is best spent on an apron plane, or the LA block. The
budget won't stretch to two.

There's very little the apron blane will do better than the LA block
(surviving in a toolbag is about the best). There's a lot the adjustable
mouth on the LA allows you to do that the apron can't. So if you're
limited to one, I'd get the LA even if I had to spend a little more on
it.

Where I'm buying a lot (school outfitting) and there's the option to
have _one_ LA in the "special tools" cupboard, then the apron looks more
appropriate. If I had spare money I might even buy one myself to live
in the toolbag and leave the LA on my bench.

"AAvK" wrote in message
news:MXBee.16211$_K.11133@fed1read03...

I bought the Veritas low angle block plane and it is a superbly well made
tool,
just about strictly impressive (as it were), though from all I have seen
of other
labp blocks, Veritas makes theirs slightly incorrectly with the blade
being 1/4"
too wide, same as the 20º block. The blade should be 1-3/8" wide rather
than
the current 1-5/8". The point being is one_of_the_main_purposes of any
labp
being to work on end grain, the blade being narrower cuts down on
resistance.
End grain is tough to plane. The blade of the Veritas apron plane is
1-1/4" wide.

Skew the tool more. Effectively narrows the blade. Doesn't hurt the
smoothness, either.

"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
...
On 5 May 2005 16:07:04 -0700, "Conan The Librarian"
wrote:

Or have I missed your point altogether?

My point is that Robin Lee probably has a bigger and better-stocked tool
cabinet than most of us. His choice of what to use isn't necessarily
relevant for the rest of us.

One might think so.... but I'll tell you I've got almost no time to do
anything in my shop...

Did some fine woodworking last night.....had to trim 1/16 or so off my
daughter's bedroom door.... guess which plane I used....(Apron plane)...

I still get my tools the way you do...though I do get a discount.

What's really funny is that the store staff know when I'm working on a
project.... 'cause it always involves multiple trips to the store over a
very short period.

Cheers -

Rob

"AAvK" wrote in message
news:MXBee.16211$_K.11133@fed1read03...
snip

I bought the Veritas low angle block plane and it is a superbly well made
tool,
just about strictly impressive (as it were), though from all I have seen
of other
labp blocks, Veritas makes theirs slightly incorrectly with the blade
being 1/4"
too wide, same as the 20º block. The blade should be 1-3/8" wide rather
than
the current 1-5/8". The point being is one_of_the_main_purposes of any
labp
being to work on end grain, the blade being narrower cuts down on
resistance.
End grain is tough to plane. The blade of the Veritas apron plane is
1-1/4" wide.

--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

Hi Alex -

You make an excellent point (about the block being wider than standard). the
reason we did this is that - coupled with the ball tail, one has essentially
a bevel-up #2 plane....and of course, the means of applying the additional
pressure necessary...

That's why I prefer my Apron plane for one-handed use.... but do use the
LABP as well for more traditional "block" applications...

Cheers -

Rob

Robin, could you tell me the width of the mouth gap of the apron plane?
I've got a tiny Stanley plane that I can practically hide in my hand.
Two things I don't like: 1) It's hard to adjust the blade, 2) The
mouth's much to wide.

Dave

Robin Lee wrote:

David wrote in :

Robin, could you tell me the width of the mouth gap of the apron plane?
I've got a tiny Stanley plane that I can practically hide in my hand.
Two things I don't like: 1) It's hard to adjust the blade, 2) The
mouth's much to wide.

Dave

Robin Lee wrote:

Not Robin, but, having just gone to the shop: 1/8" front to back, and in
case I misunderstood your question, 1 1/4" side to side.

Patriarch

Thanks for covering both dimensions; it's the front to back gap I
wanted. My stanley's mouth is 1/8" with 1/16" in front of the blade,
when the blade is at normal cutting depth. Is the 1/8" that you
mentioned the total width of the mouth, rather than the space in front
of the blade? I'm looking for a small plane with a gap around 1/32" in
front of the blade (or a bit less).


Dave

Patriarch wrote:

David wrote in :


Robin, could you tell me the width of the mouth gap of the apron plane?
I've got a tiny Stanley plane that I can practically hide in my hand.
Two things I don't like: 1) It's hard to adjust the blade, 2) The
mouth's much to wide.

Dave

Robin Lee wrote:


Not Robin, but, having just gone to the shop: 1/8" front to back, and in
case I misunderstood your question, 1 1/4" side to side.

Patriarch

"Robin Lee" wrote in
:




"Andy Dingley" wrote in message
...
On 5 May 2005 16:07:04 -0700, "Conan The Librarian"
wrote:

Or have I missed your point altogether?

My point is that Robin Lee probably has a bigger and better-stocked
tool cabinet than most of us. His choice of what to use isn't
necessarily relevant for the rest of us.



What's really funny is that the store staff know when I'm working on a
project.... 'cause it always involves multiple trips to the store over
a very short period.

Do they demand to see your ID when you use a credit card or write a
check?

Hi Alex -

You make an excellent point (about the block being wider than standard). the
reason we did this is that - coupled with the ball tail, one has essentially
a bevel-up #2 plane....and of course, the means of applying the additional
pressure necessary...

That's why I prefer my Apron plane for one-handed use.... but do use the
LABP as well for more traditional "block" applications...

Cheers -

Rob


Thanks Mr. Lee, I am very happy with the plane indeed. Per /recent experience
working on tenons, I do intend to buy the ball tail handle and knob, and the
chamfer attachment, I needed all three. Running my hands into the sharp corners
is a "cutting pain". But I could do the chamfers accurately enough for the ends
of the tenons (on 1st work bench). The attachment will be needed for when the
chamfer is showing on the outside.

Off topic question, do you have and can share a release time for the new honing
guide? I need it is why I ask, and I noticed the lowered price on the current one.

Another note (request), PLEASE get a store opened in Santa Barbara California!
There is nothing here of fine woodworking tool store at all.

--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/

David wrote in
:

Thanks for covering both dimensions; it's the front to back gap I
wanted. My stanley's mouth is 1/8" with 1/16" in front of the blade,
when the blade is at normal cutting depth. Is the 1/8" that you
mentioned the total width of the mouth, rather than the space in front
of the blade? I'm looking for a small plane with a gap around 1/32"
in front of the blade (or a bit less).


Dave

Total size. With the setting on mine, the mouth is fairly tight, but there
is some variation allowed.

If you want a really tight plane mouth, then the LN mentioned in my first
response post would be my recommendation. Or one of Steve's. Or one of
Rob's, with the adjustable mouth feature.

The apron plane is incredibly convenient, really versatile and a great
value. It isn't as adjustable as a more complex design, but is still a joy
to use.

Patriarch

In article ,
"Robin Lee" wrote:

What's really funny is that the store staff know when I'm working on a
project.... 'cause it always involves multiple trips to the store over a
very short period.

Just confirms you're a regular guy, Robin. There's an old saw about
judging a job by the number of trips to the hardware store it'll take.
My last plumbing project - to replace all the cold water feeds in the
house - was a 5 tripper. By the 3rd trip the guys at my local hardware
start ribbing me about how many more times they'll see me this project.
--
Owen Lowe
The Fly-by-Night Copper Company
__________

"I pledge allegiance to the flag of the
Corporate States of America and to the
Republicans for which it stands, one nation,
under debt, easily divisible, with liberty
and justice for oil."
- Wiley Miller, Non Sequitur, 1/24/05

"AAvK" wrote in message
news:qySee.26374$_K.2332@fed1read03...

snip

Off topic question, do you have and can share a release time for the new
honing
guide? I need it is why I ask, and I noticed the lowered price on the
current one.

Another note (request), PLEASE get a store opened in Santa Barbara
California!
There is nothing here of fine woodworking tool store at all.

--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/



Hi Alex -

The new honing guide is on the back cover of the catalog mailing May 23rd...
$48.50 ($12.00 more than the old one)...

It's aa good one!

Cheers -

Rob

"Fly-by-Night CC" wrote in message
news
In article ,
"Robin Lee" wrote:

What's really funny is that the store staff know when I'm working on a
project.... 'cause it always involves multiple trips to the store over a
very short period.

Just confirms you're a regular guy, Robin. There's an old saw about
judging a job by the number of trips to the hardware store it'll take.
My last plumbing project - to replace all the cold water feeds in the
house - was a 5 tripper. By the 3rd trip the guys at my local hardware
start ribbing me about how many more times they'll see me this project.
--
Owen Lowe
The Fly-by-Night Copper Company
__________

"I pledge allegiance to the flag of the
Corporate States of America and to the
Republicans for which it stands, one nation,
under debt, easily divisible, with liberty
and justice for oil."
- Wiley Miller, Non Sequitur, 1/24/05


Hi Owen -

.... and I didn't even mention how many things I buy for project - and don't
end up using....

Cheers -

Rob

I have the mailing dated May 2005 with the carvings by Parkes on the
cover. The back cover has 2 items: sliding square and blade removal
tool. Are you referring to an issue yet to be mailed out, Robin?

Dave

Robin Lee wrote:
"AAvK" wrote in message
news:qySee.26374$_K.2332@fed1read03...

snip

Off topic question, do you have and can share a release time for the new

honing

guide? I need it is why I ask, and I noticed the lowered price on the

current one.

Another note (request), PLEASE get a store opened in Santa Barbara

California!

There is nothing here of fine woodworking tool store at all.

--
Alex - newbie_neander in woodworking
cravdraa_at-yahoo_dot-com
not my site: http://www.e-sword.net/




Hi Alex -

The new honing guide is on the back cover of the catalog mailing May 23rd...
$48.50 ($12.00 more than the old one)...

It's aa good one!

Cheers -

Rob

"David" wrote in message
...
I have the mailing dated May 2005 with the carvings by Parkes on the
cover. The back cover has 2 items: sliding square and blade removal
tool. Are you referring to an issue yet to be mailed out, Robin?

Dave

snip

Hi David -

Yes - I'm referring to the next catalogue....the June one (with the Tsunami
Hope Chest on the cover), which mails May 23rd...

http://www.woodworking.org/hopechest.html

Cheers -

Rob
(PS - The June catalog has 27 new items in it - including two new planes...)

"David" wrote in message
....
Are you referring to an issue yet to be mailed out, Robin?

Dave

Robin Lee wrote:

The new honing guide is on the back cover of the catalog mailing May
23rd...
Rob

Perhaps it is on the one mailing out May 23?

2 new planes???? Ohmygod! (I'm hyperventilating!) calm down...


Dave

Robin Lee wrote:

"David" wrote in message
...

I have the mailing dated May 2005 with the carvings by Parkes on the
cover. The back cover has 2 items: sliding square and blade removal
tool. Are you referring to an issue yet to be mailed out, Robin?

Dave


snip

Hi David -

Yes - I'm referring to the next catalogue....the June one (with the Tsunami
Hope Chest on the cover), which mails May 23rd...

http://www.woodworking.org/hopechest.html

Cheers -

Rob
(PS - The June catalog has 27 new items in it - including two new planes...)